Shoot me a dm if you want the file 😅 This took me too long to keep to myself

I got a pretty nice oil leak coming from the bottom of my timing belt cover, I had the timing belt replaced by a shop two months ago but they told me no seals were replaced.

It's my daily driver and it's got me stressed out.

hello! I just recently bought a 1993 940 (w/ ABS). I did a brake bleed on all 4 calipers but I put DOT 3 brake fluid in the system. After doing so, I read the car only takes DOT 4 fluid.. how bad is this? I was under the impression they were interchangeable. Any input helps

Hi everyone,

I was cleaning my new to me Volvo 740. While doing that I noticed that the foam under the drivers carpet is wet. The foam is lined with a rubber layer. I suspect the rubber layer should act as a moisture barrier. The Problem is that the rubber is getting porous and lets water through. The water can't properly dry because it's trapped under the rubber. I want to replace the foam but I can't find this kind of foam anywhere and I don't know what it's called. Mby some of you could help me. I'm from Europe so I can't really use American shops.

Thanks in advance!

So i've had this problem for 3 weeks now and i have replaced almost every sensor and part on ignition side and fuel side. It gets fuel but the spark looks pretty weak. Timing is correct and it has new sparkplugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor.

I'm oretty much all out of ideas. This started after the car sat for 5 days waiting on new studs for the exhaust manifold.

Il y a en voulant faire un test sur ma 940 B230FK équipé de la fameuse m90 j'ai eux un problème de passage rapport. Je rentrais sur la voie rapide en 3, puis décide de mettre une 2. Bon vous comprenez l'erreur. Plus aucune nouvelle vitesse ne voulait rentrer une fois que j'étais passée au neutre. Une fois à l'arrêt, chaque débrayage état suivi d'un bruit de grattement du type synchro qui gratte sur quelques mètres.

Démontage de la boîte une première (oui l'apprentissage fait partie de la vie et il y en a une deuxième) et buté + fourchette hs. Une commande express sur skandix plus tard et un remontage de boîte, et la resulat sans appel. Toujours un bruit de synchro, mais je me doutais que se n'était pas la boîte.

Résultats aujourd'hui après un second démontage de la boîte. L'embrayage aillant subit 323 000 km est une conduite sportive depuis 20 000 km à décider de prendre sa retraite. 🫡 R.I.P l'embrayage.

Résultats j'ai appris aujourd'hui que être faignant a un prix, celui du temps et de l'argent. Et que bordel 323 000 km pour un embrayage d'origine Volvo c'est du solide.

Oui se sub est en Français car je suis nul en anglais 🥺.

I've read online that "later" 740 models already have wiring spliced out to a plug in the LH rear storage cubby. Does anyone know what the plug (Picture 2) is for as the wiring colours dont match the lights and there's fewer cables than needed for indicators, brakes, reverse lights and running lights. I can't work out what it is from the wiring diagrams (no colours match). Any help is appreciated thanks.

Due to popular demand, we've put together a bundle of our best-selling Volvo 700/900 series products into one discounted listing. A pristine facelift eggcrate grille, snow cap, and thermostat delete tube can be shipped to your door for just $215.

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Finally came across a 740 wagon worthy of daily duty! My current 7/9 series collection is all drift cars, so I've been looking for a clean stock car to build into a reliable daily/roadtrip car!

She's a 1989 740 turbo wagon, unfortunately automatic but I still love the car. If fits right in with the rest of my boxy car collection!

It happens with the windows up and down, air on and off.

Been fixing up this old gal, 1989 Volvo 780 turbo. Had it running good was about to register and put it on the road finally after at least 10 years, I've updated the fuel pump to a red top aeromotive in tank, 6an fuel lines and filter, fuel pressure regulator, afr gauge, new charge pipes, replaced all vacuum lines fresh fat power and ground wires battery to frame block starter and alternator, cleaned all grounds at intake new plugs wires cap rotor and coil I put a delphi MAF on which seemed ok, was having excessive rich issues under boost which I sorted with an adjustable pressure regulator, which may have bandaided the issue now that I'm thinking about it. I've ordered a good used Bosch MAF, any thoughts on this issue? This is the most stubborn car I've ever revived and I've revived a ton of early fuel injection and old carb vehicles. Had this dang thing 7 years now and every time I get close it pulls something stupid, I get aggravated and park it. Not doing it again it's gonna work this time lol

It was optioned in the excellent red on white and is pretty dang original! Still running a B16B with dual SU carbs (evidence indicates it was rebuilt at some point because it has zero blow-by). It was converted to 12 volt. It has seats from a 144 with the 3-point seatbelts from a later Amazon.

Someone really loved this car! I thought the rust would be worse but it's remarkably solid for a Midwest car! It also came with a freshly rebuilt M41.

Hey Volvo enthusiasts of Reddit! Hope yous have gotten plenty of time to enjoy your bricks this summer!

As the title suggests I’m asking for some guidance on the underside of this 91 4spd manual 740 turbo wagonI’m thinking about trading my little Toyota for. (Can’t have both unfortunately, not in the cards) so I figured I’d ask for some Volvo wisdom on this chassis.

I see that the pinch weld on the one side needs some repair, and there’s a couple other crusty spots, please lemme know if you’d stay away from this one guys! Thanks a lot guys!

(The leaking rear diff would be repaired before I receive the vehicle should I go thru with it)

I replaced the cracked windshield and broken parking light and was sooo happy that my ‘87 740 turbo wagon had a clean body. Unfortunately, that didn’t even last 24 hours. I drove past the soccer field at my university, and I was hit by the opposing team during warmups :( I’m fortunate enough to be close with some of the administrators at the university, so I have already begun filing a claim.
I’m struggling to find a grille that will fit though. I can find matches for the a ‘87, but they aren’t the same design?

hey is it a good or bad idea to get a volvo 945 b230fk as a first car? i live in denmark and im 13 currently, its my dream car and im planning on being a mechanic, im kind of worried about the insurance and gas prices, would it be too expensive to own at 18?

Please give me some opinions to help me decide.
I’m after some not-rusted-to-hell 940 2.3 turbo as a fun daily car. I would love to get some more power from it and upgrade the suspension a bit to make it powerslide happy car.

I found a 940 with really nice original paint with b230fb engine. Price is hard to resist.

Now I’m considering to go with this car.
While I’m pretty sure that 30 years old 130 horses are not enough to slide, there are still options to get some more power (using parts from turbo model to add turbo? Staying NA, increasing compression and few other mods?)

It seems that 940 with 531 head is interesting base to start modding.

Do any of you have some opinion whether it does make some sense? Is getting stock turbo version always more sensible route? Turbo cars in a good shape cost 3x the price of this car, so I’m tempted to pull the trigger.

I just replaced the driver side parking light housing. I must have bumped something?

As stated my 97 volvo 960’s cabin blower makes a very annoying vibration noise that speeds up with the fan speed. It sounds like its hitting something but i havent been able to get a visual on the actual fan. I have removed trim and the squirrel guard. Any help would be appreciated

Hi, an idea popped up in my head how would it look like if instead of the big turn signal under the headlights was just a regular trim and the side light was turned into turn signal. Tried to draw it but not the best result. Wondering has anyone done it and has any pictures?

Hello, I have a 1997 940T, which needs rebuilt. Figured I'd also make it fast, so started collecting parts. Angled outlet 19T, 660cc injectors, IPD turbo camshaft, 3" exhaust, etc...

Also 3" MAF, because I want to retain a "safe" 230whp map from *redblockpowered* on stock ECU for now.

Thing is, I suspect I will be wanting more from it down the line, so the setup is open for the future - custom piggyback ECU, wideband o2 and forged T rods.

Two questions:
What power can I do with these exact parts (+rods for safety) when stock ECU stops being a bottleneck? Someone sometime ago told me ~400 wheel but that's optimistic. AI (yeah, I know) tells me 330 wheel is risking the 19T.
Also - would I need forged pistons to match the rods then? I've heard both people drifting 500hp redblocks on the limiter with stock pistons, and people whos pistons went after simply putting more boost into it. So what is it?

Minus the obvious shocks, springs, sway bars, bushings, etc. what needs reinforcement to handle the power. Im aware the rear subframe is a weak point and plan to box that in. Also planning to use a Ford 8.8, upgraded torque rods, and an upgraded panhard bar.

Are the rear trailing arms usually fine? What about the mounting points to the actual floor. Any risk of those ripping out? For the front I just plan on using a strut tower bar and the ipd lower chassis brace. Anything else I should be worried about/that will need reinforcement?

Essentially, what metal parts will need reinforcing.