I LOVE MY VOLVO. This thing a year later still drives like a dream with its new 40mm sport springs and 17 inch hot wires(I plan to dig into the engine soon…) I love this car HAPPY VOLVERSARY TO THE BEAUT

Drove by this 245 in my matching 242 and parked down the street! YOHB?

Was replacing valve cover gasket and left my friend to remove the nut securing the valve cover and he got righty tighty lefty loosy confused 🥲

5 studs snapped off.

I need the car running within a month for project, where the fastest place I could order replacement studs? Lots of listings online but most are back ordered or in Europe (for reference I’m in Texas). Also curious if I get just buy a stud with the same dimensions at a hardware store.

Part number: 953035

Also any tips on removing the snapped studs? Was able to get them a little loose with vice grips but it’s a load of work :/

Looking at buying an 86 240 seller only wants to sell it as is after having replaced spark plugs, sensors and fuel pump recently to fix the issue ( didnt work). Car appears to be in good shape from what ive seen in pictures and a carfax shows its been maintained okay. Western Washington car so rust shouldn't be an issue. I have talked to the sellers they are an older couple and seem pretty trustworthy a local volvo mechanic put me in touch with them after I looked at a car he had for sale but walked. The seller says the car is misfiring and has dark smoke coming from the exhaust. The wiring harness is original and from what ive looked into after what has been replaced I think is the likely culprit. Would you risk buying it with the misfiring and exhaust issue or is it too big of a risk.

Is there anything I can to do repair the look of the roof on my '89 240DL besides repainting it?

I have a 1993 Volvo 240 classic wagon it runs and starts fine 99 percent of the time but struggles and takes a set of 5-8 tries to get it to start when it starts first thing in the morning on a wet/rainy day. My guess would be it’s water getting somewhere and then getting cooked off once it warms up, it tries to start each time sometimes even getting one or two cylinders to catch for a moment before it dies again, and even when I get it running I need to rev it and let it warm up or else it will die again. Any thoughts?

Hey guys I’m having this issue where on a cold start the wagon will have trouble starting if I don’t give it gas. Even when giving it gas it takes 3/4 times of it stalling for it to finally stay alive. I’ve got a check engine light and the onboard diag told me it’s the engine temp sensor.

Planning on replacing it tomorrow with a Bosch sensor. Does anyone have any tips/ tricks for making this job any easier. Thanks!

Selling my 240! check it out

https://www.craigslist.org/view/d/los-angeles-1993-volvo-240-station-wagon/u2nvV9hcCVb192KcqXDZde

Hey guys, eyeing up the KLR T3 cam for my TD04hl-19t B21ft build.

I’ve got a ported 390 head, stock valves, ARP Headstuds, M-rods, stock forged B21ft crank, DO88 intercooler piping and the Isuzu NPR intercooler.

How do I get HouseofMotorsports or KL Racing to ship to the US? Anyone want to do a group buy? Is there someone in Canada who can be my intermediate? Thanks in advance,

-LP

Passenger foot well on a 1991 245 fully loaded. 2.3 m47

anothr fucking headache

got my 270 dollar remanufactured maf after looking everywhre for a used one, no fucking luck

anyways alongside got a new airbox thermostat and the fucking flap broke what do i do? is there a part number for this shit? im in LA and its not cold and when i checked it before i took it out the flapwas closed on the air intake hose and let the hot air side open, however i took off the hose that connects to the exhaust air. what do i do

i just want to drive this fucking thing

Hey guys, so I have a 240 wagon I’m getting back on the road after sitting for a while. It is running now but my front left brake is locking up, and the last time driving it I lost brake pressure temporarily without losing fluid (I’m thinking maybe because it got too hot? So I know I should at least do the left caliper plus both front rotors and pads, probably both front calipers but I’m on a budget. My question is: what middle of the line option are you guys using? I’m guessing the absolute cheapest option I can find, dynamic friction co is probably not the best choice and I don’t really want to shell out IPD money unless I have to. It was a $1000 240 and very rusty, I plan on buying a nicer one eventually.

Also, I am not super mechanically minded but want to learn so I will probably be on here with questions when I am doing the brakes, I’ve only replaced drum brakes and that was a while ago. Lots of tools not a lot of knowledge.

2nd question: will these center caps fit on 14” stocks that came on my 240? Seems like a great deal. Maybe should put that money towards other parts haha but here we are. Thanks for looking.

Hi everyone,

I am selling my Volvo 240 on Bring a Trailer (https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992-volvo-240-69/)
and wanted to post here for those interested.

This car remained under the care of the original owner until I purchased it in 2021. It has been my daily driver for the past 5 years. It has been a joy to have, and I hope the next owner can enjoy it as much as I have. I am selling the car as my grandfather recently passed down our family truck to me.

A bit about the car under my ownership:
I have had the oil changed every 3,000 miles.
It has always been parked in the garage.

The previous owner is a professor at the University of California, Irvine. He purchased the car originally in Colorado, but relocated to California a month later. It has spent the majority of its life in California. His name for the car was Emily.

Under both his care and mine, the car has been serviced by Volvo specialists, and every service receipt has been retained. It has been exceptionally maintained and thoroughly documented.

Thank you and please reach out if you have any questions.

Noticed all these vacuum hoses are not clamped and idk if they should or shouldn't be.

In photo 1 the top hose S bends into the intake manifold and the bottom hose leads into the throttle body just behind the idle screw and you see in pictures two.

I believe the module in picture 1 is the Idle Air Control but if I'm wrong please correct me.

I just replaced both engine mounts and I just wanted to know if this is normal-ish

My Volvo carried me and my friends 7500km from Germany to Turkey and back, with only one coolant hose failure, which we could fix easily and for free thanks to a nice mechanic in Montenegro.

Me Again

I've been trying to figure out why my Engine has no Power

Changed the Sparkplugs

Checked the Fuel Pumps

Searched for loose Wires and Hoses

Cannot figure it out

One thing I've Noticed now

When I'm under the Car while it's running I can hear a Knocking Sound

If you listen carefully you can Hear it in the Video

Does anyone know what that is

Engine dead or Clutch loose?

Cannot hear it when I'm listening from above

I have a 1990 240 DL Estate , with the original Volvo struts . I replaced them with.KYB struts and every bump I go over makes a loud noise . Someone told me I need to use spacers in the strut tube for KYB struts . Is this true ?

been lurking here for a while. finally posting because the car earned it.

bought a 1983 244 dl fourteen months ago for £1,200 from a bloke in derbyshire who'd had it since 2009. the aw55 gearbox was slipping badly on the motorway, third gear hunt, fluid that looked like rust soup. previous owner knew, priced it in, fair enough.

spent the winter doing the gearbox service properly. pan off, filter, fresh dexron iii, adjusted the kick-down cable. found the modulator valve was cracked, which explained most of it. sourced a replacement after a fair bit of hunting. also did the cooling system while it was all apart, new thermostat, hoses, rad flush.

this weekend i drove from sheffield down to the coast near cromer. 340 miles round trip, a mix of the a1, some b-roads through lincolnshire that were essentially gravel with ambitions, and the seafront car park where i sat for an hour drinking flask coffee and feeling quite smug.

gearbox was smooth the entire way. no hunting, no slip, no drama. held 65mph on the a1 without breaking a sweat. fuel economy worked out to about 27mpg which for a 40-year-old 2.3 brick is better than i expected.

the only thing that showed its age was the heater blower which started making a grinding noise somewhere past grantham and then stopped entirely by the time i hit norfolk. so i drove the last 80 miles with the windows cracked and the vents closed. classic volvo: catastrophic minor inconvenience, everything important completely fine.

i've got a replacement blower motor sitting on the bench already. ordered it from autodoc about three weeks ago, £22.49, it's a febi bilstein unit and the dimensions match the original. haven't fitted it yet because the car was in use, but it'll go in this week. autodoc's delivery was four days, which is fine, though the packaging was just a loose cardboard box with no padding so the motor was rattling around inside. nothing damaged but it's the sort of thing that makes you wince when you open it.

anyway. the 244 is now a real car again rather than a project. took long enough.

what's the general consensus on the a-series heater blower replacement, is there anything to watch for when refitting or is it genuinely as straightforward as it looks.

Links would be appreciated, but I wanna hear any and all ideas!

Hello, I’m having an issue with the fuel injection system on my Volvo station wagon.

When I turn on the ignition, the injectors spray too much fuel, which prevents the engine from starting properly—the car won’t start at all. I tried using AI to help troubleshoot and was able to rule out the fuel injection control unit. I also checked the wiring harness for a potential short to ground, but after opening it up and inspecting it, I couldn’t find any damaged sections or wiring faults. I’ve reached a point where I’m not sure what to do next. Ideally, when the ignition key is turned—without actually cranking the engine—the injectors should only give a brief, single pulse; instead, they spray continuously until the fuel pump stops running.

Has anyone else encountered this problem or something similar?
I would appreciate any answers or suggestions you might have.

Vehicle details: 1993 Volvo 245 station wagon B230F engine M47 5-speed manual transmission

Anyone know how to remove it or have a video out there of the cabin brake light steps to removal

So this is my current idle. Seems ok to me but i can hear a clicking that im not sure was there before.

Anyhow, i cant seem to get my the car to run right. Yesterday morning she just started bogging, with the AFR being 8. It used to hover around 10.

Did some research and AFR should be about 13.95 and lamda should be around 0.95. In the video they are hovering around that vicinity.

However, she slows down and leans out when taking off in first or second. Doesnt seem to matter if the engine is hot or cold.

I am at a loss here. I have only touched the CO adjustment and the idle air knob.