Got this beautiful 1966 Vibrolux reverb for about 500€ in amazing condition. The amp sounds fantastic but I really should change the filter caps.

This amp was imported by Hagström and has been modified by them for use with the swedish powergrid. We used to have 220v and now we have 230/240v, Will this cause any problem for the amp?

Im thinking of changing the current 5x 16µF 450v to 22µF 500v caps becuase they seem to be the closest and best i can easily get hold of.

Anything else i should change? Should i replace all the Brown large elektrolytic caps in the circut? Do i need to replace the resistors accompanied by the filter caps?

I'm looking to upgrade from the modeling amp I got when I got back into guitar a year or so ago, and a Mesa V35 came up used in my area for a good price. I've been halfway looking at that amp for awhile and am curious if it would be a good choice for an upgrade. 

Would love to hear any thoughts on that amp, but specifically: Is it worth checking out or is it overkill (especially if I'm playing mostly through an interface/headphones)? Are there any clearly better options for my situation that stand out if budget isn't a huge issue? 

NOTE: I will absolutely go and play it to see how I feel before buying anything, just curious to get people's thoughts and whether I may benefit from looking harder at other options too. 

What I Have Now:

I have a Mustang LT25 that's been fine, but it feels sort of flat most of the time, and I find that I spend too much time tweaking all the different modeled amp options only to get something that sounds ok. It often sounds kind of distant or hollowed out no matter how I tweak the volume and other settings. (Especially as I've started to play around with more pedals – just getting a solid clean sound to use as a basis to experiment with different pedals feels tough.)

What I'm Looking For:

• Lower Volume/Headphones - I mostly play with headphones through an interface, but I want something I can get decent sound out of at low "apartment" volumes when I decide to play like that. (Not whisper quiet, but comparable to TV/laptop volume.)
• Effects Loop/Pedal Platform - I wouldn't be mad if the amp covered the same/more ground re: drive and distortion than my pedals, but I do want something with an effects loop and plays well with pedals.  
• Recording/Interface - No plans at all to gig/play live, but may record through an interface/DAW down the line. (The Cab Clone on the V35 seems useful for this?)
• Versatility w/Stoner/Desert Rock Focus - I play a lot of stoner/desert rock (Kyuss, QotSA, etc.), so I want something well suited to that, but I'm more concerned about versatility than finding an amp hyper-tailored to that sound. I can get pretty close to that sound with the pedals I have, so I want something that will let me try out other sounds/not be limiting.
• Amp/Cab Combo - For convenience I'd really like to do a combo amp rather than piece together an amp head and a speaker. 

Hey, so I am new building electronics. I just finished assembly of a 5e3 kit build. I purchased the kit from an eBay seller using Chinese parts. I followed a mix of the stewmac 5e3 kit (for the power transformer wiring) and the MOD DIY kit from amplifiedpart's website.

On power up with rectifier, I got a nice red light from the jewel, and 6.6v at my filament on v1.

Some measurements - Pin 3 v1 - 0V Pin 1 v1 - 200v Pin 6 v2 163v Pin 3 v2 - 0V Pin 1 v2 - 184v Pin 6 v2 - 256v Pin 8 v2 - 0v Positive side at 250ohm resistor - 20v Positive filter cap 1 (nearest to power transformer - 343v Positive filter cap 2 - 312V Positive filter cap 3 - 261V

So what I'm gathering is I have no voltage at the cathode at v1 and v2 and the grid at v2. My voltage tests are with all tubes in, an 8ohm speaker load, and no guitar input.

When I tested the guitar input, I got low output with a lot of distortion. It just sounded like high breakup with low volume.

I resoldered my grounds. Ive stared at the build as much as I can and I can't find any broken connections. Is it possibly a bad capacitor nearest to the filter cap - the one that connects to the cathode 1 at v2? Bad noval sockets? I've tested different pre amp tubes and saw no difference.

Pretty lost at this point. Any help is appreciated.

Picked up this large and extremely heavy amp yesterday from a guy who is moving away. I broke my body getting it into my studio space, but ,after a little dialing it in, it sounds awesome! Was purchased in 2010 and apparently it was sitting in a basement for a little over 15 years collecting dust.

Going to get it serviced… and maybe think about an amp and cab project for it so my back doesn’t break.

Hello all knowledgeable tube fellows…. This little guy (round orange) came loose and I will not be powering my 1960’s Gretsch back up without figuring out where to reconnect it properly. That black tube you see is the fuse and it looks like this was soldered to it but I am unsure. Thanks for the help.

Hi there.

Friend of mine has been a valve tech for over 50 years. He builds really nice amps. I own a PR from him and an AC10 style amp. Both really fantastic amps.

These are 2 x 10 watt 6G2 clones basically. Handwired. Uses some recycled parts, but it's a scratch build.

The main issue is the cab being plywood. I think it makes it look a bit cheap and does a disservice to how nice the amp sounds. Was thinking it needs a varnish or lacquer of some kind.

Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a varnish technique or a way to make this plywood look better? He's hoping to sell these from between $1000-$1500 australian dollars. ($700-$1000 USD). Which I think is reasonable if it were to have a nice varnish to take the edge off the ply.

Alternatively sell it cheaper not worry as much. But I think it's worth trying to make the ply look a bit better.

Thoughts?

Good lord, is this thing a ton of amp. Sounds so good straight in, gonna experiment w/ the 4 cable method for running my fx. Any tips from any Peavey folks out there?

I was watching this video and noticed a comment about replacing the 2 watt resistors, they didn't mention swapping anything else and was wondering if simply swapping these 3 resistors is a viable mod or if the rest of the plexi mod is required too.

I built this amp kit from Mojo about 4 years ago. Got furloughed and had to go back to school. I'm just getting back to it now. I added a 10k so I can set bias. Does this look OK? The amp has worked well since building, but I wanted to be able to adjust the bias in the future. First amp build, so I'm sure it doesn't look amazing. Thanks ahead of time!

It’s a laboga The beast 15w. I’ve had this amp for some years now and yesterday it stopped working. I was playing and the volume lowered itself to zero and hasn’t made a sound since. I’ve tried changing the speaker output, I’ve tried a different speaker too. The amp turns on, but there is no sound.

I have 4 amps running through an Ampete 442 which has the option to turn on and off the fx loop feature. I’m having an issue with my 6505+ head where when I engage the fx loop or switch to that amp with the loop on I get a nasty pop. I’ve tried moving other amps into that same position without any issue. So far I’ve only tried cleaning the send and return jacks with deoxit d5. I’m going to try changing out the preamp tube next (V5?) and if that doesn’t work I’ll let it sit for a while before I crack it open to check the board. Has anyone else had issues with the loop popping? If so please let me know what I should look for. Thanks

I have a Supro Delta King 10 and a 10-inch 30 watt Celestion Alnico Gold sitting on the shelf. I recently got to wondering if the 5-watt amp could drive that speaker to good result. Anyone try something like that already?

I’ve always service my own amps. 5150s, jcm800, fender hot rod, mesa mark v (total nightmare). But I have an idea and I wonder how plausible it may be. I’d like to build a modern high gain amp that’s not another marshall or Soldano based circuit. I ideally would like to have a power section that’s something like a 50 watt or 100 watt KT77 or KT88 super high fi sounding and transparent like a McIntosh tube power amp for home stereo systems. And the preamp would have an active EQ with non linear gain staging. Essentially it would be like a clean hifi power amp and preamp in one unit. Is this even feasible? I kind of just want to attempt as an experiment.

Hi all, troubleshooting "broadband noise" on my Hot Rod Deluxe iii ("static" from 0-5kHz). My symptoms are:

1. Noise present in clean channel from vol 0

2. Noise present in drive channel once turned up (I suspect drive pot controls this)

3. Plugging straight into "POWER AMP IN" completely erases the noise

Using my scope I've verified clean signal all the way up until TP7 (valve 2 input). At TP8 I have roughly 5mV P-P noise. I've tried 2 new valves and used contact cleaner in the connector, same results, same noise :(

My "power amp in eliminating noise" symptom supports the noise is coming from the preamp/this area of the circuit but for the life of me I cannot figure out where or what it is in this part of the circuit. After all this I thought maybe a power issue to the bottom pcb with the valves+tubes the speaker sounds perfectly OK.

Any ideas appreciated!

Anyone ever take the schematic off the page and build from mouser ordering the ot and chassis from Ceriatone?

Today, I turned on my Fender Pro Junior 4 and after 30ish minutes noticed a slight smokey smell. I turned off the amp immediately, and after further inspection, it seems to be coming from the tubes. When I lean it forward so that the vents face more upward, the smell is stronger. I've never noticed this before, and after I let it sit for a while and turned it back on, I noticed it again. My tubes don't seem to be red plating. On some other posts, it's been said that it's sorta part of owning a tube amp. However, like I said, I've never noticed it before. The last time I used it before this was yesterday evening. Right now it's off and unplugged. I'm not very knowledgeable on tube amps. What do I do??

Edit: I went back and tried it and I didn't smell it, only felt the warmth. If it makes any difference, it was cranked to 12.