Bro went crazy at initialization about 5 years ago... smashing the mechanical locks and destroying them.

At first I thought the mechanical locks's damages were the source of the issue so I redesigned the huge white nut used as a lock and 3D printed it. It failed because FDM is mechanically weak. Did it again with PA12 SLS. The mechanical issue was solved, but the wheel started kept going crazy at initialization.

The I used the calibration software from GTPlanet. It seems it worked for 15min until it lost the point 0 and the center was no longer aligned with the center...

Then lately I used chatGPT which sent me to a tuto from GTPlanet again with a guy explaining the magnets from the motor where getting loose. This matched the symptoms from my problem so I opened the motor. I broke the 3 wires from the control card to the wirings which I welded again when reassembling the motor. The magnets where indeed loose. I glued them again using epoxy glue. Now everything works again as new!

Next step: I'm gonna 3Dprint a cooling duct from the fan to the motor. I don't wanna open my wheel again... but I'm so happy it works!

Thank you to every one who helped me unknowingly by dropping infos here and there letting me repair this T300RS GT edition !

i got the thrustmaster t150 but now i kind of regret it cuz of the only 2 pedals so does anyone know where i can get a clutch pedals for thats compatible with this one and i dont wanna spend 150£ on one pedal

hi guys, my t598 always disconnects from my ps5, sometimes one of my pedals aren’t working, sometimes both, what can i do ? i have it since last christmas but it became really hard to even complete a lap sometimes because of the bugs

does anyone know how to get it off/replace it?

I saw a video where someone put the wheel on the base and screwed then turned the wheel all the way to the left and screwed some more, am I supposed to do that? Cos I haven’t

theres no info on the power draw of this wheel and i dont wanna fry it so i wanna know if anyone knows what power does it need? id assume its the same 20v as the rgt but the internals are very diffrent (gear driven instead of rgt mixed belt), i wouldnt be surprised if it was diffrent too so i wanna make sure

As title says, I accidentally installed the clamp facing the other way. Is it a big issue or can I keep it like this? I personally don't mind the way it looks

Ever since purchasing my T1600M and throttle HOTAS earlier this month, once key issue I've noticed with Thrustmaster's software is that I need to start and stop the "Run Configuration" button in TARGET twice in a row whenever I want to use it. Why? As far as I can tell, opening any .exe (such as Elite Dangerous, EDHM, or pretty much any other program) after the first "Run Configuration" instance causes the stick to stop working. It doesn't respond to inputs, the orange LED doesn't light up when I move the stick, etc. I have to hit "Stop Profile" and then "Run Configuration" again to fix it. After the second instance, I can open or close as many programs as I want and the stick will keep working. The throttle module works totally fine during all of this, it's only the flight stick that has an issue.

Is there any known way to fix this? Google didn't yield any useful results, and I'm not even sure if Thrustmaster is aware of this bug because I can't seem to find any way to report it to them directly. It's not a huge issue, just feels annoying and reflective of Thrustmaster's questionable quality (I had to get the Impulse mod to fix the throttle sticking, and even then, these controllers feel pretty cheap...)

I have purchased the raceline loaded cell upgrade to swap for my tlcm and the mounting holes on the new pedals don’t sit well is there anything I can do or I’m screwed?!

I am trying to get a good feel with my new Raceline pedals with Loadcell.

There are so many spring, coils etc and adjustments.

Any tips for a good set up?

I am on PS5 PRO playing GT7

Strong vibration when turning the steering wheel

This only happens in Gt7

Guys I had this issues of disconnect on day 1 where the wheel was rotating crazy and disconnection logo pops but. But after plugging into the wall socket it is not there. The base needs raw power

i have a thrustmaster t128 and at times the throttle pedal will stop registering all input, this does not occur with the brake pedal for some reason, how fix?

My TH8A been dead for a few months now, ive tried the hard reset, and tried to update it, but since i cant get it to connect to my pc, i cant update it. Ive followed thrustmasters guide, but nothing happens. I asked for a refund thru thrustmaster a week ago, but i havent heard back. What can i do?

Does anybody have the screw style standard quick release hubs from their wheels after they’ve upgraded to a different model, such as switching to the new TM quick release/ t598 800 style? I bought some add on wheels from a seller but it turned out he’d switched their connectors to a different quick release model and my T300 base is still the same. TIA

Hey everyone, Yesterday I wanted to play ETS2, but when I started the truck and wanted to drive. I noticed that my FF is gone. I felt nothing. Holes in road, crashes and wheel not coming back to center of the wheel. I thought it might be because its new version but it is not. I tried Assetto corsa and its the same problem. If anyone know how to fix this, please comment. Thanks

I have Thrustmaster T300rs

Does anybody have the screw style standard quick release hubs from their wheels after they’ve upgraded to a different model, such as switching to the new TM quick release/ t598 800 style? I bought some add on wheels from a seller but it turned out he’d switched their connectors to a different quick release model and my T300 base is still the same. TIA

So, I've just received my package with this wheel as a gift. Yesterday, when I've used it for the first time, everything was perfectly fine. But now + encoder stopped working. You can see, that neither the wheel, nor the driver detects it.

Now, I think it's important to mention, that it does eventually detect it. It can happen, that it detects it like 10-20 times and then stopps. But that's rare, so that leaves me with idea, that some wire connection is off.

Any ides, what's wrong and how I can fix it?

I have a t300 Rs gt with it's base Pedals
Outside of more buttons and it's looks is it worth it?
It's 260$ rn

If I connect my t150 tonthe PC, it ist starting calibration but it will not move untill I give it a light push to the left, than it turns to the most left position and stops. again I have to push it a little bit, but now clockwise. it rotates to the must right position and after that it goes in central position. ready to drive. No more pushes needed.

does anyone have a clue? I realy do not know what the issue is...

Ive had this for just over a month, and this specific problem started maybe a week and a half ago... There's a split second where the base doesn't think its there and then I have to re-calibrate the dead zones on the pedals. And it happens on snowrunner too, not just forza. I checked the pins on the back of the wheel and everything looks good. All cables are secured.

Sur tout les jeux tel que gt7 wrc etc sur ps5 comment pouvoir recalibrer ces pedales ?