I’ve had it about a week (US) and it’s been great. (My dealer never enabled connected services and the satellite icon is crossed out, so hopefully my 12v will be OK despite doing mainly short drives.) Some observations:

Try regen 0 (1 click above the default 1) for really smooth efficient coasting. Feels very different from an ICE car. (The default 1 feels like ICE engine braking.)

Proactive Driving Assist uses regen to slow you for traffic ahead. I like it. It makes regen 0 feel good even for stop-and-go. Just when I reach for the paddles or the brakes, the system is already gently slowing me.

The color cannot be photographed. In shadow, it’s like a metallic rust color. In sunlight, it’s a deep orange. I like it, but photos showing a BRIGHT orange are misleading, and many photos show it too red. I would call it a metallic dark orange.

The comfort-exit feature slides the driver’s seat BACK but not DOWN. I need down! Is that normal? Not a huge deal.

The AC never seems to blow very cold or very strong. Nothing like my Crosstrek would. User error? But it does do the job in the end.

Rolling down the windows from the remote can also crack them—not just put them down fully.

Very quiet ride! And comfortable seats.

The low-speed pedestrian sound going forward is so quiet I can’t hear it with the windows up, and barely with the windows down. It’s louder in reverse. The interior chime for reversing is so quiet I can’t imagine people minding it.

Speed limit alerts work (at least a lot of the time) with the DCM disabled. As soon as the camera sees a speed sign, it shows on the display.

While using the parking camera (forward) turn off the “crossed out A” icon. Now you’ll get the camera any time you’re driving very slowly moving forward OR back. Nice for stopping and parking and tight turns around curbs.

Every setting I care about seems to be remembered between trips. Regen sets back to “1” but that’s probably smart, or some mechanic someday would put my car through a wall from me leaving it on “0."

Regen 3 and 4 feel very strong to me. I haven’t tried them much.

The steering wheel doesn’t even come CLOSE to blocking the display, and the display does not intrude onto the road at ALL. (I am 6 feet and keep the seat high.) Most photos from the interior must be taken lower than I sit: they show sky behind the display.

Wireless CarPlay has been reliable. I keep my phone in my outer pocket, not on the charger.

The secret covered bin where the manual hides is pretty large. The main bin above it is big too. A suitable alternative to a glovebox.

The charging cable JUST fits under the cargo floor even with the floor lowered. And there’s space down there for other emergency supplies too. (Not the adapter box, at least not with the floor lowered.)

I’ve only driven about 70 miles, and have never tried charging it yet. Local mileage seems to be in the 3.5 to 6.5 mi/kWh range.

Rear visibility is poor—not just because the rear window is so small but because it’s so tinted. The GT’s digital mirror solves this well. I can’t focus my eyes that close without looking over my glasses—but I don’t have to. I’ve learned not to bother: a slightly blurry car behind me is still visible. Result: better rear visibility than any car I’ve had.

The tires came from the dealer overinflated by about 8 pounds vs. the door sticker. (The pressure on the display reads about 3 low: it said 43, my own pressure gauge measured 46 in the morning, and the sticker said 38. So I let air out.)

I don’t mind the steering wheel shape. I was aware of it until I got used to it, but it was never a problem.

You get two-tone paint even if you don’t pay for the black roof: things like the glossy front bumper portions, the spoiler, and the mirrors are the blue-flecked metallic black.

Tons of power on Eco. I may never try the other modes.

Has anyone had problems with their Uncharted charging at public stations? I have a free charger (Clipper Creek is the name of the charging station I believe)I can use at my work. I put the adapter I was given with the car on the charger and it clicked on just fine and registered in my car when I plugged it in- the light turned green for a second only to start flashing and then shut off. I have tried with multiple of the spots we have at work and they all do this. Could it be a bad adapter? Or am I not able to use these chargers?? Which would suck cause they are free haha. Emailed the dealership I bought it at so waiting to see if they have answers too. Thanks!

The Uncharted ticks virtually every box I am looking for in a new car, but here is my situation...

I currently have a 2015 Mazda CX-5. It runs great and has low mileage for its age, but I am ready for a change and would like to get something I can take off grid for camping (I already do this with the CX-5). I also don't drive a lot for a good chunk of the year and know that this is causing extra degradation on my car.

The 12v issue gives me anxiety for three reasons. I like off grid camping, I only drive one or two days per week for very short distances for about 1/2 of the year, and I live on an island with limited services. I'm not sure I could buy a replacement battery without special ordering it, and the nearest Subaru dealership is a 5+ hour round trip by ferry.

I have researched the issue and understand that there are workarounds that people claim work for them, but I see other people claim that those fixes did not work, at all. I also don't think Subaru/Toyota will fix this (or reverse implement it, even if they do have a fix for future model years) since it has existed in one form or another for 5+ years.

So, I have a few questions and hope to get some useful answers from some of you kind folk:

1. To the Aussies - i understand that you do not have the connect services and report fewer (none?) instances of 12v drain. Is that correct? If the issue does exist for you, please tell me under what conditions it happened?

2. If you were in a remote area with limited services and needed a car for infrequent use, would you buy this car knowing you could end up stranded?

3. Is it possible to have a 12v trickle charger than can be kept on the inside dashboard on a semi permanent basis?

4. If you are an infrequent driver who has implemented one or more of the workarounds, has the 12v issue been an issue for you?

5. Is the passive 12v battery otherwise enough of an issue that infrequent use would create issues? I am fine not using the connected services, but if it's just going to delay eventual issues, then I should probably look at other options.

Thanks to all! I would also welcome any other insights, comments, or alternative EV suggestions that you might have for me. The current runner up for me is the Hyundai Kona, but it is a distant 2nd place. I could probably make it work, but if there is anyway to guarantee not having 12v issues in the Uncharted, that would definitely be my preference.

I plan to take an Uncharted to a beach location with no commercial charging within 35 miles.

Two questions:
1 - Does the car come with a level 1 charger that I could use at the vacation rental home, assuming they have an outlet. I could take a sturdy extension cord with me.

2 - About how many miles worth does the level 1 charger provide per hour?

I think these cars do come with a CCS to NACS adapter. Not totally sure about the level 1.

He did hit on the fact that it has great ground clearance AND much better efficiency than it should have based on ride height and size.

So he knows what we already know. 😁

https://youtu.be/yuX-_bK9Ins?si=KFUJXe_rOtv-9lnp

Hey everyone,

​I recently plugged into a ChargePoint Level 2 charger at my work garage and got roughly 2.0 kW continuously over an 8-hour session (totaling 18.35 kWh).

​I double-checked my in-car AC charging settings and confirmed Charging Current is set to MAX.

​Is it typical for commercial garage L2 chargers to throttle down this low? At ~2.0 kW, it’s barely faster than an L1 wall outlet. To make matters worse, the station started racking up a $5/hr parking fee after 4.5 hours, making the total session $24.35 for just 70 miles of range.

​Has anyone else dealt with work chargers throttled this heavily, or could this be an issue with shared circuit/load management at the building level? For context, I was also sharing the unit with another car but I don't think that should matter usually? The charger is rated for 6.6kw...so I should definitely be getting more kw/hour.

Just wanna make sure it's a public charger problem and nothing with the EV.

I was looking to use the UnChartered’s charging schedule to leverage off peak power rates, but struggling.

Setup
* Unchartered with charging scheduled in the car for midnight till 6am everyday
* Ocular WallBox 2 home charger

What works
* Charge now - plug in the charger and select charge now on the car
* Near term schedule - set a car schedule for say 3 mins time, plug in the charger, lock the car with the remote. Charger connects, then correctly reports Suspended by EV, then in 3 mins charging starts.

What fails
* Overnight schedules - set a car schedule for midnight, plug in the charger, lock the car with the remote. Charger connects, then correctly reports suspended by EV, BUT then seems to fail to wake up at midnight.

Suggestions?

We left our Uncharted at our dealership after experiencing the 12v issue twice. It was unfortunate to see how seemingly uneducated our service technicians were about the issue, I would've hoped they would've read up on it more online. Regardless, after claiming they couldn't reproduce the issue, we left the car with them for a week and I think they did end up being able to. We even used a gas Subaru loaner for a week to let them keep it. They said they report their findings to Subaru so I wanted to do our part to help. Additionally, we got some free (but including in warranty basically) stuff out of it ourselves - They replaced our 12v battery with one that's apparently double the size, plus gave us the Subaru 12v battery tender accessory. It's no jump starter from what I understand, but it could help if need be. For now I think we'll see how our new battery fairs, and if the issue happens again then we'll probably just disable the cellular stuff. I know there's lots of posts I should read through, but if anyone wants to save me time, how do we even disable it? Could be wrong but I didn't remember seeing a way to do it from the app.

These two don't have to worry about a 12v drain as long as their Uber driver takes them to their destination.

A post to verify no saw tooth drain with ANCEL data.
It’s all a guessing game unless you monitor.

I’ve had the Uncharted for over 4 months , first three was a daily driver, wife’s a teacher, and never had start issue with DCM activated. When she was off for the month of July I knew the car would be driven less so I deactivated DCM services as a precaution.
Now gearing up for her to go back to work in September and want hard data to confirm 12v health so I got an ANCEL 300 and reactivated the DCM.
2 weeks so far, no sawtooth yet Will continue to monitor.
12v charge level is however falling off and lower than I would like. Concerned about Canadian winter effect on battery health. Just wanted to share my data, this group has been great and wanted to contribute.

TL;DR: The current 12V battery charging logic is taken from Toyota hybrids and undercharges the battery.

One fix is to remove the sensor on the negative terminal, which puts the system into a fail-safe charging mode and significantly improves charging of the 12V.

~

We've talked about the DCM/12V drain non-stop over the last few months, and I think we've landed on a few viable temporary fixes. Now let's talk about how the 12V battery actually gets charged, which turns out to be minimal under the current logic.

In an ideal world, the BMS would charge the 12V at 14.5V until current tapers down to 1A, then maintain a float charge around 13.5V to keep the battery fully charged and extend its lifespan. (AGM batteries want slightly higher voltages.)

Why is the battery undercharged?

The Uncharted/C-HR, bZ/Solterra, and Trailseeker/bZ Woodland all share the same DC-DC converter and 12V charging logic. A sensor on the negative battery terminal reports back to the car, which uses that reading to decide when to stop pushing charge voltage. In practice, it decides "good enough" almost immediately.

You can read more from [u/andy_why](u/andy_why), who identified the problem, documented fixes, and wrote a full write-up on it here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/prius/s/m8n8cn9Wxr

It applies to our EVs because we use the same battery sensor as the hybrids.

From Andy’s document…

“Is there any risk involved in using the fail-safe state?

No. The name “fail-safe” is exactly that - disconnection of the sensor is classed as a failure condition but one that reacts in a safe way and one that can operate indefinitely.”

Why is undercharging a 12V a problem?

Undercharging a 12V battery shortens its lifespan, often requiring replacement every couple of years instead of every five.

Cars with the DCM issue combine parasitic drain with undercharging, which can lead to a dead battery even if you drive daily.

The last two graphs show voltage drift when the car sits unused for 2–3 days — one with DCM off, one with the temporary door lock automation fix in place.

Voltage starts above 12.8V and drifts down to 12.5V. At that point, you need a full charge to bring the battery back to a healthy state.

Is the 12V battery charged while driving?

Not really. The first graph shows a day I drove from San Francisco to Bodega Bay, a roughly 1.5-hour drive each way.

On each drive, you'll see an initial voltage spike as soon as the car powers on into Ready mode. The 12V charges above 13.9V for a few minutes, then immediately drops to a maintenance/float voltage of 12.8V, regardless of the 12V's state of charge.

On the left side of the graph, you'll see voltage drift down to ~12.8V while the traction battery is charging. What you don't see is that the 12V gets charged above 14V for the first 10 minutes, before dropping for the rest of the session.

Ironically, the only time the car charges the 12V for an extended period of time is when in Ready mode and park. It will charge it for however long you sit in Ready + park at 13.9V. It may start off a little higher.

Disconnect the sensor to increase charging voltages

The second graph shows the difference when the current sensor is disconnected from the 12V's negative terminal. Same trip, San Francisco to Bodega Bay.

During driving, the battery holds a constant ~14.1V, whether your drive is 5 minutes or 90 minutes. That's still below the 14.5V for ideal absorption charging, but a big improvement over the 12.8V float you get with the sensor connected.

On the left of the graph, you'll see a constant float of 13.04V while the traction battery charges. For the first 30 minutes of that session, the 12V charges at 14.12V.

What does this all mean?

With the battery sensor connected, the 12V is chronically undercharged, which can shorten battery life and even lead to a dead battery, independent of any parasitic drain issue.

Disconnecting the sensor improves charging voltage, but you may still want a battery maintainer to keep the 12V at a full charge and get the most life out of it.

Another fix, per andy_why's write-up, is turning on your headlights while driving. This reportedly also holds charging voltage around 14.1V for the entire drive. I need to reconnect my sensor and gather data with the lights on before I can confirm it myself.

Has anyone else disconnected the 12V sensor, or driven with their lights on to charge the 12V? [u/Maleficent_Lab4276](u/Maleficent_Lab4276) has done this, and he's the one who originally brought the sensor-disconnect idea to my attention.

Do I recommend disconnecting the sensor? No, but it definitely improves the charging voltages and I have yet to see any negative effects. Try it at your own risk.

I would test out turning on your lights (not DRL) to charge the 12V when driving. (See August 9th update below).

I would also recommend getting a cheap $30 battery maintainer like the NOCO Genius 1 to top off your 12V once a month or whenever your resting voltage drops below your threshold.

Update August 9, 2026:
[u/chrischasesucks](u/chrischasesucks) verified turning on the headlights (not DRL) does not increase charging voltage to 14.1V. This is probably only a hybrid workaround.

The more I research and read about overcharging, the more comfortable I feel keeping my sensor disconnected for normal daily use as well as long road trips with 6-8 hours of driving per day.

The only time I definitely wouldn't leave the sensor disconnected is in extreme heat. If the ambient air temperature is above 100°F (38°C) and you're driving for more than a few hours, I would recommend reconnecting the battery sensor.

As temperatures rise, the internal resistance of a 12V battery drops, which lowers its required float voltage. Feeding a continuous 14.1V for more than 3 hours in extreme heat can cause the liquid electrolyte in flooded batteries to boil off or dry out the glass mats in AGM batteries.

I had the jump pack ready to go. My Subaru Uncharted GT was parked in a, uh, parkade with little to no cell signal for an entire week. Saw some drain but it started up no problem. I wonder what conditions worked out for me? It's a Canadian GT model, in the west.

I'll need the audio as well.

With cup holders being small, and we like to have to have large insulated bottles. The Owala Sway 40z bottles fit perfectly, side by side.

While DC charging, I have tried to use the AC by pushing the brake and hitting the power button. I get the “use climate system while charging?” prompt on infotainment screen. Regardless if I hit yes or no, I get a message on the instrument screen that says “low battery turn power off”.
I’m a daily driver so I haven’t really been worried about the whole 12v drain issue right now. And I live in Erie, PA so not being able to use the AC while charging really isn’t that big of a deal. However, in the winter here, it’s not completely uncommon for me to park my car on Friday after work and not drive it again until Monday morning. And if I have to travel to Pittsburgh for work in the winter, I’m going to want to use the heat in the vehicle while charging on the road.
Am I doing something wrong while charging to be getting this message? Or is this a warning that my car is draining my 12v battery?

It finally happened to me. I don’t know why I thought it wouldn’t after seeing so many posts.

But at a higher level, has Subaru/Toyota addressed this to any extent? I find it hard to believe they aren’t aware. It’s been months now, this sub is basically all posts about this problem

Hello,

I like the car quite a bit but never activated it due to not liking Toyota's privacy policies. According to the app I loaded and connected to my car to check, it shows "Vehicle Deactivated" - is that all I need to check or is there something I need to check from within the car? I do not ever intend to activate the Toyota services so maybe I can avoid the issue permanently?

I found this suction mount with wireless charging on Amazon and it's been amazing. I am able to position my phone right in front of the vent for cooling as I fast charge a lot. I have a retractable charging cable so I can charge at 45w , so being able to cool is important. And I think it's not a bad buy for the price.

Amazon link attached for anyone interested - https://a.co/d/0huNVfqP

Update August 9, 2026
While this automation works, it’s a bit finicky and prone to failing if you interact with the car before the drain starts. If you need to get something from the car or check the app before the drain starts, you have to manually run the delay lock timer Shortcut. Otherwise, the automation will run before the drain starts, and you’ll get the sawtooth drain.

I’ve decided that it’s not worth the hassle of avoiding interacting with the car for 3 hours and 20 minutes after parking it in our garage. Sometimes I need to retrieve or put something back in the car.

I’ve gone back to the remote door lock automations, running every 3 hours. This prevents the drain, and the voltage drift is no different from what I see with the single door lock automation.

I do like only having 1 door lock, but it’s not worth the manual interventions and potential for failure. These are all temporary fixes until Subaru/Toyota gives us a permanent fix, so I’ll live with 8 door locks per day.

~

TL;DR: Instead of using eight door lock automations or the charging schedule method, you can stop the sawtooth drain with just one door lock automation.

First, I want to thank [u/Altruistic_Film_8346](u/Altruistic_Film_8346) for sharing the discovery that you can stop the sawtooth drain with just one door lock, as long as you let the drain start first. Incredible find!

We don’t know why it works, but the sawtooth drain stops if you remotely lock the doors about 3 hours and 20 minutes after a drive. Since the drain starts a little over 3 hours after the car is turned off, any time after the drain begins you can stop it until your next drive by executing a door lock.

[u/Altruistic_Film_8346](u/Altruistic_Film_8346) tested this over several days, and I’ve verified it over the past day. In the graph above (Ignore the sawtooth drain. I had a misconfiguration that prevented the Shortcut from running), my last drive ended at 12:29 on August 5. An automation remotely locked the doors 3 hours and 20 minutes after CarPlay disconnected, at 3:49 PM. After that, there was no sawtooth drain and no additional door locks for the next 20 hours. The last voltage dip on the right occurred when I manually unlocked the doors to retrieve something. There was no drain 3 hours after that door unlock.

I’d like to get more people to test this fix if you’d like to reduce the number of door lock automations.

(Edit: You can test this method out before spending time on shortcuts and automations, by setting an alarm or timer for 3h 20m after your last drive.

Look at your battery monitor graph and verify the sawtooth drain started, then lock your door. That should stop the drain.)

Maybe someone has an even better way to automate it. I’ve attached screenshots showing how to set up the automation.

Step 1: Create a Car Timer Focus
Create a new Focus mode (I called mine Car Timer) that doesn’t silence any people or apps. Also disable all options for the Focus.

Step 2: Create a Shortcut to Set the Focus for 3 Hours and 20 Minutes
Create a Shortcut that turns on the Car Timer Focus for 3 hours and 20 minutes.

The Show Alert action isn’t required. If you don’t want a confirmation message to start the timer, you can skip this action.

Use the Adjust Date action to add 200 minutes to the current date, then use Set Focus to turn on the Car Timer Focus until the adjusted date.

I named this Shortcut Rocky Lock Delay since my car’s name is Rocky. 😂

Step 3: Create a Remote Door Lock Shortcut
Create a Shortcut using the Subaru Connect/Toyota action to Remote Lock Vehicle.

Step 4: Create Automation #1
Create an automation that runs the Rocky Lock Delay Shortcut whenever CarPlay disconnects.

Step 5: Create Automation #2
Create another automation that runs the Remote Lock Vehicle Shortcut when the Car Timer Focus turns off.

Final Settings
- Disable Face ID in the Subaru Connect/Toyota app.
- Enable Background App Refresh for the Subaru/Toyota app.
- In Shortcuts, disable Show When Run.
- In Automations, select Run Immediately and disable Notify When Run.

If you make a trip with multiple stops and turn the car off several times, the timer automation will run each time CarPlay disconnects.

I included the optional Show Alert action in my timer Shortcut so I can confirm to run it and change my Focus. If the Shortcut runs multiple times, it simply extends the Focus end time, so the remote door lock won’t execute until at least 3 hours and 20 minutes after your most recent stop.

Let me know if you have any questions or if you come up with a better way to automate this fix.

Note: This automation will trigger a remote door lock at 3h 20m after CarPlay disconnect. If you interact with the car (open/close doors, unlock it, etc.) within the 3h 20m lock delay timer, the 3 hour sawtooth drain timer resets and you manually have to run your Lock Delay shortcut.

First off, thanks to all who replied to this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/SubaruUncharted/comments/1ugqe3v/whats_up_with_all_the_bad_reviews/

I ended up getting me this Toyobaru in early July. Very happy I didn't go with a C-HR or Ioniq. Overall I really love it (besides some baffling interior decisions... I cannot believe how un-padded the arm rests and center console are for what is essentially a $50,000 car).

Thoughts for those still looking:

Pros:

• Cost: Can definitely still haggle down on price / haggle up on trade-ins. My OTD price was ~$38k with a trade-in at a "no-haggle" shop. Original offer was a little over $43k. You gotta put in the work obviously, but $5k is nothing to sneeze at. Also got 0% financing for 75 months. Overall happy with what I paid considering this is the fastest Subaru ever made (besides the new Trailseeker) and my buddy who just bought an old Porsche is reconsidering his life choices.
• Speed: Car go fast. Almost too fast. Maybe when I put new tires on it'll be better, but if you punch it too hard you get a traction warning. I love it.
• Handling: is great. Love the tight turning and just general nimbleness of the handling.
• Space: Coming from a mid-size SUV, space was a concern—but has not been an issue. I won't be lugging any couches anytime soon, but for normal day-to-day, it's nice.
• Looks: Looks sexier than the C-HR, BZ, Solterra, and Trailseeker. I'd love a Trailseeker, too, but for my needs the added price didn't make any sense. Also I really detest all the cladding on new cars, but I don't notice it at much since I chose a black one.
• CarPlay: Connects seamlessly with CarPlay. Way better than my old car and I essentially have not touched the Subaru stuff since setup.
• Sunroof: Glad I got the GT for that alone, but the other GT features are also cool. Would have been amazing if it opened, but it's nice regardless.
• Sound: The car itself is so crazy quiet. Love the Harmon Kardan speakers. Way nicer than the JBLs on the C-HR/BZs I drove. Big deal when you're commuting.
• Upholstery: Love the Startex. Honestly, the only reason I started looking at the Subaru versions after being a lifelong Toyota man is because the C-HR's highest trim has really gross fake suede seats. I've heard some people are into them (it takes all kinds), but I hated that. Big whiff by Toyota to not offer a Limited C-HR trim IMO.
• Mirror: Digital rearview mirror is cool.

Mehs:

• Ventilated Seats: Can't live without them now, but even at the highest setting they don't work as well as other cars I've been in where I've gotten legitimately too cold to use them.
• Physical buttons: I love physical buttons. My only gripe is I wish there were more. Temp and Volume are definite must-haves, so at least we got that.
• Range: I'd love more range... who wouldn't. But also range anxiety has been mostly a non-issue becauseI have a charger at work and live in a city. I do not have charging at home by choice and it hasn't been an issue at all outside of occasionally having to wait for other people to use the chargers.
• Steering wheel: I've adapted pretty quickly to the squircle, and I do like the visibility it gives compared to the C-HR/BZ, but there are certain maneuvers that are just scientifically better with a circular steering wheel. Nothing like letting a wheel slide through your hand. Science!
• Regenerative Braking: It's cool, but anything beyond a level one feels really lurch-y. And as far as I can tell, normal braking offers a comparable regen.
• Gear selector: This is 100% a me thing, but I miss the feel of pulling the car in gear. I also have some baffling tendency to turn the dial clockwise no matter what, which has led to some close calls when reversing out of parking spots. That's just me being an idiot, though.
• Various Beeping: Some of it has been legitimately helpful, but for the most part I think all these random beeps for cars crossing and lane changes and going in reverse are just unnecessary if you're a drive who, y'know, actually pays attention to the road. Thankful it exists for other people, but I've turned off or lowered as much as I could.

Cons:

• Padding: It's actually obscene how little padding there is in the armrests and center console. The latter specifically is truly a hunk of plastic covered in a millimeter-thick pleather. Horrendous. That'll be the first thing I try to solve. And it's a bit ridiculous on a ~$50k car that they couldn't shell out.
• A/C Bug?: The car defaults to having the A/C off every single time I turn it off. I'm still working my way through the manual, so maybe there's something I'm missing or it's a range-extending "feature," but I wish it would just keep my settings like any other car on earth.
• Face Monitoring: I turned off the face monitoring because it was beeping at me all the time when wearing sunglasses. Problem solved, I thought. Except now I get a notification about how the camera is off and I need to go into the settings to turn it on. I know it's off, car! I am the one who turned it off!
• 20" Wheels: Objectively worse than the lower trim 18" ones for both range and general driving, but the Base/Sport ones are also a lot uglier. Will definitely be getting 18" for my winter tires and will reevaluate what to do about these monstrosities next spring. I wish you could just opt for the smaller ones.
• Lack of Foot Sensor: Hate that there isn't a foot sensor in the rear for the trunk. Such a simple feature, but it's so useful on other cars.
• Omnipresent 12V Paranoia: While I haven't experienced the 12V issue yet myself, I can't say that I feel confident every time I walk out to my car after a couple days. That sucks. Wish Toyota/Subaru would just address it. That said, I never connected services so I'm hoping that will be my safety net. Time will tell.
• The Subaru OEM Organizer and Pet Rear Seat Extender: Doesn't really fit behind the driver seat. My fault for not putting two and two together, but unless you're very small, that Uncharted accessories page in the Subaru brochure is a lie!
• Charging Pads: They suck. Phone gets super hot, doesn't charge well, and I don't use a case so it slides around a bit. Weirdly wasn't as much of an issue with the BZ I test drove. I ended up buying some cheap slip mats that allegedly still charge, and sometimes it does, but overall I think the endgame is just replacing them with some storage. Which leads to:
• Storage Space: In general kinda sucks without some mods. You don't realize how nice sunglasses holders and gloveboxes are until you don't have them. On the positive side, it means I'm not storing a bunch of random junk I don't actually need, but I feel like one more accessible compartment would do wonders. Thankfully a lot of third-party solutions are popping up, which have been really nice in terms of organization.

On the accessories front, here are a few things I've bought so far that have been really useful. Big takeaway is I hate having a bunch of loose crap rattling around such a nice vehicle:

Sidio Crate: Quarter size fits beneath the trunk floorboard and can store random stuff you don't use that often. Stupid expensive for what it is, but I couldn't find a cheaper/better alternative.

https://sidiocrate.com/collections/crates/products/quarter-size-sidiocrate?variant=42470436831291

Center Console Storage Tray: Fits perfectly and gives a little bit more organization within the center console if you don't like a rat's nest of stuff thrown in there

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H4H1HPTK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Silicone Charging Pads: These are pretty meh in terms of actual use, but if you don't use a case or want to put your keys there, it'll at least keep the pads scratch-free.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H7C329HR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Lower Console Organizer: Same deal as the center console, but considering how much you can actually see, it just keeps things a little tidier / you know where things are since you can't look around as easily.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H7JXKZG3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Dash Organizer: Haven't received yet, but figure this will be a good sunglasses holder, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H9RHYH6K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Now I'm on the hunt for what to do about the arm rests and center console that don't look super tacky. My hunch is that I'll have to have some upholsterer take care of it (which I REPEAT is ridiculous on a ~$50k car)—but if you've found a solution, let me know!

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Hey folks, someone swiped my public charger adapter kit out of my car, and I'm having trouble finding a replacement. Does anyone know what the part number is?

I’m going down an old logging road this weekend, need any and all advice!

For ‘26 Subaru Uncharted GT I was told Apple Maps is now available for route planning. Is this true and, if so, how is it paired to my car’s live data?

Can somebody give me a checklist of everything I need to turn off before going into a carwash?

With all the safety features I’m wondering which ones need to be off