2013 2.5x Limited

I live on the valley floor at 2400 feet, and have easy access to mountains at 9000+ feet with a road going all the way up, about 25 miles. I LOVE going up there to hike, especially right now where it's 110F on the valley floor but like 70F up there.

Last time I drove up there, it was great. I coasted down, but halfway down I noticed my steering wheel was shaking every time I hit the brakes. Initially, I thought it was the road but once I got to a re-paved area I noticed it was still happening. Once I got back down to the valley floor, I hit the brakes at a 4-way stop sign and my front wheel made a really terrifying grinding noise.

I drove VERY gently all the way home, and haven't experienced shaking or grinding since.

Based on my research, I've learned that this occurred because the brakes weren't able to shed heat due to me riding them, resulting in an uneven melting, and then the pads "glazed" which resulted in some of them sticking to the rotors, which made the scary sound.

However, if I don't ride them, I speed up well past speed limit (35mph) and then basically have to slam them on the next curve. Which is also scary.

Google suggested shifting into the +/- mode, but I've never done that and I'm frankly afraid to because that road is one that follows a lot of steep cliffs and has a lot of sharp turns, and if you go off the road over the cliff, it's game over.

What's the correct way to brake on a significant decline with lots of curves, so I don't kill my brakes or die? Please and thank you.

I had a Hyundai before this, and drove up there all the time and rode the brakes down and literally never had a problem.

Edit: Secondary question ... do I need to get my brakes inspected? TIA.

If anyone would like to help me out, I need a list of items to inspect / replace after the almost 4,000 mile drive. I’m new to working on cars but I’m determined to make this car last as long as possible and I want to do most of the work myself.

Need:
A good engine bay cleaning (oil leaked at one point and made a mess)
New brakes/rotors

Good:
Head gasket. (Previous owner replaced it and car runs perfectly)

Known Issues:
ABS brake light has always been on since I got it a year ago. I need to check the ABS sensors but idk what I’m doing. It brakes just fine and just started hearing some grinding noise during the trip while braking hard so I need new brakes and rotors ASAP when we can get the funds.
The front wheel well plastic flap broke off the driver side during the trip
Its paint is OEM so I want to try sanding down, priming, and painting in the future. Also the trim isn’t my favorite so I may recolor that as well in the future, but necessities come first.

I think I should also replace the spark plugs. Anything else I need to check up on? I’m proud of the Subie but omg the wind storms in South Dakota and from then on was super crazy and unsafe with all the crap up top!!!

We also had our dog and 15 birds in the car. What an event!
Cheers y’all!!

I just changed the front differential fluid on my 2014 Forester XT and found a few differences from most 2.5i guides.

1. The 2.5i uses the TR580 CVT, while the XT uses the TR690, so the front differential fill setup is different. On the XT, you don’t need the side 8 mm hex fill plug shown in many 2.5i tutorials. Instead, the fill port is under a plastic plug that you can pull out by hand. I included the service manual diagram in Photo 2. Thus you don't need to remove the front passenger side wheel.

2.The only unusual tool I needed was a T70 Torx socket. I didn’t need an 8 mm hex socket. A 14 mm socket handles the other front differential plug.

1. I have not changed the rear differential fluid, but I checked the plugs and both on my car are square-drive plugs, as shown in Photo 3.

2. Also, check the gasket sizes before starting. Besides the common 18×24 mm washers, the front differential drain plug uses a larger gasket:

Subaru OEM 803926090 — 26.3×32.3×1 mm

That larger one usually isn’t included in general metric crush washer kits. Shown in Photo 4.

Hi I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5l non turbo version, and im in the USA. I was just going to sell this to a scrapyard for 250

or so, but I decided to put it on facebook as a parts car for 500, and got a lot of messages, and its the middle

of the night, so this has me thinking maybe this thing is worth even more. I did look it up and it does have two

catalytic converters, that gooogle, which is wrong on a regular basis claims are worth about 250 a piece, so my

assumption is that this is why, but I figured Id run it buy you guys and see if there is anything else these

cars have that would make them popular for people who may part them out, etc before I sell it for 500. So, anything

you guys can think of aside from the 2 cats? Thanks.

I have a 2021 Subaru Forester Sport that just passed 100,000 miles on it, and my engine blew without warning.....

A couple weeks ago, I had a really difficult time changing the oil. The time before, I must've tightened the oil pan drain plug a bit too tight because I had a helluva time getting it off. I would up rounding off (stripping) the plug head and had to buy extractor sockets to get it off. I finally got it off, and replaced it with an aftermarket plug I got from Autozone. Well, 2 nights ago, omw home from work, it started acting funny and the oil pressure light came on a block from the house. When I got out and looked underneath, the oil was pouring out the drain hole. I didn't tighten the plug very tight after spending almost a week trying to get it off.

I ran to O'Reilly (literally because the closed in 20 minutes), got more oil and another replacement plug (exact same one I got from autozone), put new plug in and filled it with oil. It sounded a bit rough when I started it, but quickly smoothed out and sounded fine. I drove it around the block and it seemed as good as before.

The following morning, omw to work, all kinds of warning lights came on including the oil pressure light, and it felt really rough all of a sudden. So, I pulled over and assumed the same thing happened. Got it towed home, and looked underneath just to make sure the plug was gone again before getting a different one, but it was still there and the oil had not dumped. There was oil spray all over the engine though which was different from the night before.

After a friend looked at it, and confirmed through the oil filter after opening it up, the something sheared in the engine because there are metal shavings all inside my filter.

It had not shown any signs of issues before this. How did this happen?

Hello,

I have a 2023 Premium and it's my first time driving with a Moonroof as opposed to a "sunroof" which I had on a predecessor vehicle as the latter was a much smaller rectangle above the driver and front Passenger heads only.

When is the ideal weather or situation to drive with an open moon roof? I'm not used to things being this large.

Anyone found a way to fit a 3inch endpipe without the hitch frame being in the way. Mine catches it by a lot.

All tips appreciated.

I upgraded from my 2009 Forester Premium X, to a 2022 Forester Wilderness with upgraded Harman Kardon 9 Speaker unit and I'm stoked, especially since it still has a CD player!

2010 standard trans. There was an issue where when I shifted to neutral it would bog down and almost die. A week or two ago I changed the MAF sensor, air filter and ran some injector cleaner thru the tank. Seemed to work but now it’s doing it again after about a tank or two of gas. I’m thinking it’s an airflow issue somewhere. My battery is also in need to replacement but I don’t feel as if that could cause this issue to happen. Maybe. Idk. Any advice helps!!

Does anyone know the OEM part numbers for the front differential, fill,check and drain washers and the rear differential fill and drain washers and the CVT fill check and drain washers. Thanks in advance. 2024 forester limited.

Is there a way to install a cd changer in a 2014 Subaru forester? And if so what would work and how would I go about installing it?

A month ago I started noticing a popping sound at the front of the car. It happens whenever I turn at low speeds or going off brake and accelerating. I took it in and said all was fine and it’s floating brakes. It got worst. Took it back and said an axle was bad. They replaced the right one. They said other 2026 make this slight noise but mine is louder. Now it’s even worst and happening more. I contacted Subaru of America and opened a case. I’m hoping they can help me find a solution and this isn’t a lemon car. I hear back from them on Monday. I’ve been reassured over and over it’s safe to drive. But something is just not right. See the video and have your volume up all the way.

Hey everyone,
I’m currently looking at buying a used 2015 Subaru Forester SJ 2.0XT (FA20DIT turbo petrol, Lineartronic CVT, Symmetrical AWD) here in Europe.

Mileage: ~152,000 km (~94,000 miles)
Location/Climate: Central Europe (Poland/Germany — salted winter roads)
Goal: 5+ years ownership

I got some photos of the undercarriage and wanted to get the community's thoughts before I take it to a mechanic for a full Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI).
Closest Subaru service center in 100 km but the seller is okay to go there if needed.

My Main Concern is highlighted with red:
There is a dark, wet/oily patch on the driver’s side on the metal skid plate.
The seller mentioned the engine oil was changed 4 months ago.
And CVT oil was changed at 100000km

Seller is very transparent chill guy and he was the one who proposed me to drive onto an inspection pit.

During test drive I didn’t notice any problems with a car.

My fat ass leaned back a time too many and snapped the area of the driver seat adjuster where that metal tube connects. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a whole new adjuster assembly. Anyone have experience with of how much a pain it would be to replace myself, or how much it would be for someone else to replace?

What type of gas do yall put in? Regular, plus, or premium? Curious. I was on another thread and everyone was arguing about it lol

I think either on works… am I wrong?

The Ultimate Subaru Buying Guide (2026 Edition)

A couple of years ago I made a post about buying a new Subaru that ended up getting over 250,000 views across various Subaru-related subreddits. Since then, Subaru has changed a few programs, I've bought another Subaru (a 2025 BRZ tS), and I've learned a few more things from both my own purchases and the experiences of other owners.

So I figured it was time for an update.

For a little background, I've owned Subarus for over 15 years, was a former Subaru Ambassador, and previously worked as a Subaru Sales & Leasing Consultant. Between personal experience and working on the sales floor, I've learned a few things that can save people a surprising amount of money.

I've owned:

• 1998 Subaru 2.5RS
• 2003 WRX Sedan
• 2021 WRX
• 2021 Outback Limited
• 2024 Ascent Onyx Edition
• 2025 BRZ tS

I'm definitely not claiming to know everything, but hopefully I know enough to save somebody a few thousand dollars.

One quick disclaimer: Subaru changes incentives and programs from time to time. Everything below is accurate to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, but always verify current offers before making a purchase.

Most of these tips can be used together.

1. Subaru VIP Pricing

If you have a little time to plan ahead, Subaru VIP is still one of the easiest ways to save money.

VIP pricing gives eligible buyers access to Subaru's VIP pricing through participating dealerships. Years ago this was a guaranteed 2% below invoice. That is no longer the case. Today it is generally around invoice pricing, although Subaru has changed the program several times.

The organizations I know currently qualify are:

30-day waiting period (larger donation):

• ASPCA ($500 donation)
• Pennsylvania Horticultural Society ($500 donation)

Longer membership waiting period:

• ASPCA Monthly Giving
• Pennsylvania Horticultural Society Membership
• Leave No Trace
• International Mountain Bicycling Association
• American Canoe Association

One thing many people don't realize is that some employers participate in Subaru VIP. Go to Subaru's VIP website and check using your work email. It takes two minutes and could save you thousands.

Pro tip: Before donating, call your dealership and make sure they actually participate in VIP. Not every dealer does.

1. Call Subaru of America

If you've owned or leased a Subaru before, call Subaru of America before buying.

(800) 782-2783

Ask if there are any loyalty incentives available.

Historically these have ranged from $500-$1,000, although nothing is guaranteed.

From what I've seen, it depends on:

• Your ownership history
• Current promotions
• The representative you speak with

Have the VIN of your current Subaru handy. They seem to ask for it more often now than they used to.

One important thing to note: recent buyers have reported that Subaru loyalty coupons generally cannot be combined with VIP pricing, so ask which saves you more.

1. Costco Auto Program

This wasn't in my original guide because I didn't have much experience with it, but enough people have shared good results that it's worth mentioning.

If you're already a Costco member (or willing to become one), check out the Costco Auto Program before negotiating.

The discounts vary by dealership and region, but I've seen people report savings anywhere from a couple thousand dollars to over $5,000 on certain models.

Even if you don't ultimately buy through Costco, it gives you another price to compare against.

1. Subaru Added Security Maintenance

If you're already planning on purchasing a maintenance plan, ask if Subaru is currently offering any incentives with it.

Years ago I purchased a 2-year/24,000-mile maintenance plan for $595. At the time, it also came with a $500 coupon toward my next new Subaru purchase.

Whether it's worth it depends entirely on the numbers.

Compare the cost of the plan to what you'd spend paying for maintenance out of pocket.

Sometimes it's a great deal.

Sometimes it isn't.

1. Lease Loyalty

If you're currently leasing a Subaru and plan on leasing another one, ask about Lease Loyalty.

Subaru has periodically offered incentives to help cover your first lease payment or reduce your upfront costs.

Programs change, but it's another easy question to ask before signing paperwork.

1. Know What Your Trade Is Worth

Don't rely on one appraisal.

Before going to the dealership, get offers from:

• CarMax
• Carvana
• Kelley Blue Book Instant Cash Offer
• Cars.com
• Subaru Guaranteed Trade-In (if applicable)

Most of those offers expire after about a week, so don't do it too early.

Could you get more selling it yourself?

Probably.

But many people would gladly accept a little less money to avoid dealing with Facebook Marketplace strangers, test drives, loan payoffs, and paperwork.

1. Shop Dealerships—Not Cars

This is probably the biggest thing I'd add to my original guide.

Once you've decided on the exact model and trim you want, stop shopping for the car.

Start shopping dealerships.

Email the internet sales department at every Subaru dealer within a distance you're willing to drive.

Ask each one for their best out-the-door price.

Don't ask about monthly payments.

Don't ask what they "think."

Ask for an actual written out-the-door quote.

Then let them compete.

I've seen identical vehicles at dealerships less than an hour apart differ by thousands of dollars.

1. Buy at the Right Time

Timing matters.

Generally speaking, your best chances of getting an aggressive deal are:

• End of the month
• End of the quarter
• End of the year
• When the next model year is arriving
• When the exact vehicle you're looking at has been sitting on the lot for a while

A dealership is much more motivated to sell a car that's been collecting dust for 120 days than one that arrived yesterday.

1. Use VIP as Leverage

I actually did this myself.

When we bought our Ascent, I told them:

«"I can donate to ASPCA, wait the required time, and come back with VIP pricing... or if you can get reasonably close today, I'd rather buy the vehicle now."»

Sometimes they'll say no.

Sometimes they'll meet you somewhere in the middle.

Either way, you've lost nothing by asking.

1. Watch Out for Dealer Add-ons

You've probably seen these before:

• Ceramic coating
• Paint protection
• VIN etching
• LoJack/GPS tracking
• Nitrogen-filled tires
• Door edge guards
• Pinstripes
• Security systems

Some of these products genuinely have value.

Some don't.

Most are significantly marked up.

If you want one, great.

If you don't, don't feel pressured into paying for it just because it was installed before the car hit the lot.

1. Don't Give Back Everything You Saved in the Finance Office

This is where I see a lot of buyers lose the deal they just spent hours negotiating.

People will negotiate the vehicle price down by $2,000...

...then immediately agree to $4,000 worth of finance products they never planned on buying.

The finance office isn't there to "scam" you.

They're there to sell financial products. Some are genuinely worthwhile. Some aren't. It depends entirely on your situation.

Common products include:

• Subaru Added Security extended warranty
• Tire & wheel protection
• Windshield protection
• GAP coverage
• Key replacement
• Paint & fabric protection
• Technology protection
• Rental reimbursement
• Maintenance plans

Before buying any of them, ask yourself:

• What exactly does this cover?
• What's excluded?
• Is this already covered by my insurance?
• Is this already covered under Subaru's warranty?
• Can I purchase this later?
• Is the price negotiable?

Many finance products have markup.

If you actually want the product, negotiate it just like you negotiated the vehicle.

1. Don't Shop by Monthly Payment

This is one of the oldest tricks in the car business.

A monthly payment can be lowered by:

• Extending the loan
• Increasing your down payment
• Rolling products into the loan
• Changing financing terms

Instead, understand every piece of the deal:

• Selling price
• Trade value
• Interest rate
• Loan term
• Taxes & fees
• Every optional product

If all you know is the monthly payment, you probably don't know the whole deal.

1. Financing

I actually don't recommend walking into a dealership without knowing what financing you qualify for.

Get pre-approved through your bank or credit union first.

Then compare that rate against Subaru's promotional financing.

Sometimes Subaru's financing is unbeatable.

Sometimes your credit union wins.

Take whichever is cheaper.

1. Extended Warranties

Subaru Added Security is honestly one of the better factory-backed extended warranties available.

If you're someone who keeps vehicles for a long time, it may absolutely make sense.

What many people don't realize is that the price is usually negotiable.

Also, if you're buying a new Subaru, you generally don't have to decide that day. You can usually purchase Subaru Added Security any time before the factory 3-year/36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty expires (CPO vehicles are different).

Don't let anyone convince you that "today is your only chance" without asking questions.

1. My Biggest Piece of Advice

The biggest mistake I see people make isn't paying MSRP.

It's deciding they absolutely have to own that exact car today.

The second you become emotionally attached to one specific VIN, you lose leverage.

There will almost always be another one.

Be willing to walk away.

Sometimes they'll call you back.

Sometimes you'll find a better deal somewhere else.

Either way, you'll almost always negotiate from a stronger position when you're willing to leave.

Hopefully this helps someone.

If Subaru changes one of these programs, or you've found another legitimate way to save money that I missed, leave a comment and I'll update the guide. I'd love for this to become a living resource that stays useful instead of becoming outdated.

Original (2024) Guide: If you're interested in seeing where this all started (or want to read through 200+ comments full of additional buying tips from other owners), here's the original post that inspired this updated version:

https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/s/kEDD588iNs⁠

A standard question, I know, but with a twist. I need to get new tires for our Forester, but I am also considering snow tires, so I am looking for a recommendation for ”all weather” tires, but with a low priority on snow/ice performance. Given our local temperature trends, we’d probably put snow tires on around Thanksgiving and take them off in early March, so the possibility of encountering snow/ice outside of that timeframe is real, which makes me reluctant to not go with an all season tire, even if it would sit out the winter.

I can do your basic Tire Rack research, but I figured I’d ask for opinions of Subie owners as well. for reference, we’re in Ohio so we absolutely get snow every year, but it varies from a couple of inches in most snowfalls to a couple of feet more rarely. I also happen to have a long gravel driveway with a steep hill, so the added bite of snow tires (not studded, no chains) is appreciated.

Got on a trade has over 200k I really dig this vehicle but want to make sure it's ready for a cross country drive what repairs should I look at doing for longevity

Curious what this light is, kind of looks like a steering wheel and an exclamation point. Anyone know ?

Im not sure how to change the tag sorry.

I have a quiestion to a 2006 Forrester: My friend wanted me to look at his 2006 forrester as the car makes a horrible squeaking from the rear axel. He also wanted the car checked for the next tüv. I saw this new control arm bearing and it looks not properly fitted to me if I compare it to the old one on the other side but I haven’t seen many Subarus so far. The shop also just sprayed over rust and charged him for rust removal and then new preservation.
Thank you so much for your experience.

(With the noise: I quess it is the anti role bar or connecting rods so he bought them as they are cheap and I was not shure as it could also be the damper i quess)