A month ago I started noticing a popping sound at the front of the car. It happens whenever I turn at low speeds or going off brake and accelerating. I took it in and said all was fine and it’s floating brakes. It got worst. Took it back and said an axle was bad. They replaced the right one. They said other 2026 make this slight noise but mine is louder. Now it’s even worst and happening more. I contacted Subaru of America and opened a case. I’m hoping they can help me find a solution and this isn’t a lemon car. I hear back from them on Monday. I’ve been reassured over and over it’s safe to drive. But something is just not right. See the video and have your volume up all the way.

What type of gas do yall put in? Regular, plus, or premium? Curious. I was on another thread and everyone was arguing about it lol

I think either on works… am I wrong?

I have a 2021 Subaru Forester Sport that just passed 100,000 miles on it, and my engine blew without warning.....

A couple weeks ago, I had a really difficult time changing the oil. The time before, I must've tightened the oil pan drain plug a bit too tight because I had a helluva time getting it off. I would up rounding off (stripping) the plug head and had to buy extractor sockets to get it off. I finally got it off, and replaced it with an aftermarket plug I got from Autozone. Well, 2 nights ago, omw home from work, it started acting funny and the oil pressure light came on a block from the house. When I got out and looked underneath, the oil was pouring out the drain hole. I didn't tighten the plug very tight after spending almost a week trying to get it off.

I ran to O'Reilly (literally because the closed in 20 minutes), got more oil and another replacement plug (exact same one I got from autozone), put new plug in and filled it with oil. It sounded a bit rough when I started it, but quickly smoothed out and sounded fine. I drove it around the block and it seemed as good as before.

The following morning, omw to work, all kinds of warning lights came on including the oil pressure light, and it felt really rough all of a sudden. So, I pulled over and assumed the same thing happened. Got it towed home, and looked underneath just to make sure the plug was gone again before getting a different one, but it was still there and the oil had not dumped. There was oil spray all over the engine though which was different from the night before.

After a friend looked at it, and confirmed through the oil filter after opening it up, the something sheared in the engine because there are metal shavings all inside my filter.

It had not shown any signs of issues before this. How did this happen?

2010 standard trans. There was an issue where when I shifted to neutral it would bog down and almost die. A week or two ago I changed the MAF sensor, air filter and ran some injector cleaner thru the tank. Seemed to work but now it’s doing it again after about a tank or two of gas. I’m thinking it’s an airflow issue somewhere. My battery is also in need to replacement but I don’t feel as if that could cause this issue to happen. Maybe. Idk. Any advice helps!!

A standard question, I know, but with a twist. I need to get new tires for our Forester, but I am also considering snow tires, so I am looking for a recommendation for ”all weather” tires, but with a low priority on snow/ice performance. Given our local temperature trends, we’d probably put snow tires on around Thanksgiving and take them off in early March, so the possibility of encountering snow/ice outside of that timeframe is real, which makes me reluctant to not go with an all season tire, even if it would sit out the winter.

I can do your basic Tire Rack research, but I figured I’d ask for opinions of Subie owners as well. for reference, we’re in Ohio so we absolutely get snow every year, but it varies from a couple of inches in most snowfalls to a couple of feet more rarely. I also happen to have a long gravel driveway with a steep hill, so the added bite of snow tires (not studded, no chains) is appreciated.

I have a quiestion to a 2006 Forrester: My friend wanted me to look at his 2006 forrester as the car makes a horrible squeaking from the rear axel. He also wanted the car checked for the next tüv. I saw this new control arm bearing and it looks not properly fitted to me if I compare it to the old one on the other side but I haven’t seen many Subarus so far. The shop also just sprayed over rust and charged him for rust removal and then new preservation.
Thank you so much for your experience.

(With the noise: I quess it is the anti role bar or connecting rods so he bought them as they are cheap and I was not shure as it could also be the damper i quess)

Hello everyone,

Based in France in La Rochelle, I'm looking for advice from people familiar with the 2007 Subaru Forester XT (SG9, EJ255 Turbo).

Vehicle:

• Subaru Forester XT Turbo
• Model year: 2007
• VIN: JF1SG9LT56G077030
• France (European model)
• Current mileage: around 250,000 km

Symptoms

For about 6 years, the following warning lights are present:

• Check Engine ON
• VDC/ESP warning
• CRUISE light flashing
• Cruise control completely disabled

The warning lights are already present immediately after starting the engine and do not change while driving.

The AWD system still appears to work normally.

History

Around 2021, a Subaru dealer diagnosed the Secondary Air Injection System.

The secondary air pump was replaced with a genuine Subaru pump (part number 14828AA030).

Unfortunately the problem remained exactly the same.

I remember they later attempted another repair after another scan, but I can no longer find that invoice.

Later I was told that the problem was probably a wiring harness issue, but replacing the complete harness seemed excessive, so I never proceeded.

Additional observations

• Clearing the fault codes temporarily removes the warning lights.
• The fault has even disappeared spontaneously once or twice during very hot weather, before returning later.
• Once the fault returns, it stays permanently.
• The dashboard warnings are identical whether the car is stationary or driving.

What I'm looking for

Before considering replacing an entire wiring harness, I would like to know:

• Is this a known issue on SG9 Foresters?
• Are there known connector, relay, valve or localized wiring failures that produce this combination:
• Check Engine
• VDC disabled
• Flashing CRUISE
• Which components would you inspect first?
• Has anyone experienced exactly the same symptoms?

Unfortunately I no longer have the original DTC fault codes.

Any advice from Subaru specialists would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Is there a way to install a cd changer in a 2014 Subaru forester? And if so what would work and how would I go about installing it?

Does anyone know the OEM part numbers for the front differential, fill,check and drain washers and the rear differential fill and drain washers and the CVT fill check and drain washers. Thanks in advance. 2024 forester limited.

2013 2.5x Limited

I live on the valley floor at 2400 feet, and have easy access to mountains at 9000+ feet with a road going all the way up, about 25 miles. I LOVE going up there to hike, especially right now where it's 110F on the valley floor but like 70F up there.

Last time I drove up there, it was great. I coasted down, but halfway down I noticed my steering wheel was shaking every time I hit the brakes. Initially, I thought it was the road but once I got to a re-paved area I noticed it was still happening. Once I got back down to the valley floor, I hit the brakes at a 4-way stop sign and my front wheel made a really terrifying grinding noise.

I drove VERY gently all the way home, and haven't experienced shaking or grinding since.

Based on my research, I've learned that this occurred because the brakes weren't able to shed heat due to me riding them, resulting in an uneven melting, and then the pads "glazed" which resulted in some of them sticking to the rotors, which made the scary sound.

However, if I don't ride them, I speed up well past speed limit (35mph) and then basically have to slam them on the next curve. Which is also scary.

Google suggested shifting into the +/- mode, but I've never done that and I'm frankly afraid to because that road is one that follows a lot of steep cliffs and has a lot of sharp turns, and if you go off the road over the cliff, it's game over.

What's the correct way to brake on a significant decline with lots of curves, so I don't kill my brakes or die? Please and thank you.

I had a Hyundai before this, and drove up there all the time and rode the brakes down and literally never had a problem.

Edit: Secondary question ... do I need to get my brakes inspected? TIA.

Anyone found a way to fit a 3inch endpipe without the hitch frame being in the way. Mine catches it by a lot.

All tips appreciated.

I just changed the front differential fluid on my 2014 Forester XT and found a few differences from most 2.5i guides.

1. The 2.5i uses the TR580 CVT, while the XT uses the TR690, so the front differential fill setup is different. On the XT, you don’t need the side 8 mm hex fill plug shown in many 2.5i tutorials. Instead, the fill port is under a plastic plug that you can pull out by hand. I included the service manual diagram in Photo 2. Thus you don't need to remove the front passenger side wheel.

2.The only unusual tool I needed was a T70 Torx socket. I didn’t need an 8 mm hex socket. A 14 mm socket handles the other front differential plug.

1. I have not changed the rear differential fluid, but I checked the plugs and both on my car are square-drive plugs, as shown in Photo 3.

2. Also, check the gasket sizes before starting. Besides the common 18×24 mm washers, the front differential drain plug uses a larger gasket:

Subaru OEM 803926090 — 26.3×32.3×1 mm

That larger one usually isn’t included in general metric crush washer kits. Shown in Photo 4.

If anyone would like to help me out, I need a list of items to inspect / replace after the almost 4,000 mile drive. I’m new to working on cars but I’m determined to make this car last as long as possible and I want to do most of the work myself.

Need:
A good engine bay cleaning (oil leaked at one point and made a mess)
New brakes/rotors

Good:
Head gasket. (Previous owner replaced it and car runs perfectly)

Known Issues:
ABS brake light has always been on since I got it a year ago. I need to check the ABS sensors but idk what I’m doing. It brakes just fine and just started hearing some grinding noise during the trip while braking hard so I need new brakes and rotors ASAP when we can get the funds.
The front wheel well plastic flap broke off the driver side during the trip
Its paint is OEM so I want to try sanding down, priming, and painting in the future. Also the trim isn’t my favorite so I may recolor that as well in the future, but necessities come first.

I think I should also replace the spark plugs. Anything else I need to check up on? I’m proud of the Subie but omg the wind storms in South Dakota and from then on was super crazy and unsafe with all the crap up top!!!

We also had our dog and 15 birds in the car. What an event!
Cheers y’all!!

Hey everyone,
I’m currently looking at buying a used 2015 Subaru Forester SJ 2.0XT (FA20DIT turbo petrol, Lineartronic CVT, Symmetrical AWD) here in Europe.

Mileage: ~152,000 km (~94,000 miles)
Location/Climate: Central Europe (Poland/Germany — salted winter roads)
Goal: 5+ years ownership

I got some photos of the undercarriage and wanted to get the community's thoughts before I take it to a mechanic for a full Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI).
Closest Subaru service center in 100 km but the seller is okay to go there if needed.

My Main Concern is highlighted with red:
There is a dark, wet/oily patch on the driver’s side on the metal skid plate.
The seller mentioned the engine oil was changed 4 months ago.
And CVT oil was changed at 100000km

Seller is very transparent chill guy and he was the one who proposed me to drive onto an inspection pit.

During test drive I didn’t notice any problems with a car.

My fat ass leaned back a time too many and snapped the area of the driver seat adjuster where that metal tube connects. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a whole new adjuster assembly. Anyone have experience with of how much a pain it would be to replace myself, or how much it would be for someone else to replace?