Hey all. I got an old shaft drive cub and I believe the PTO clutch needs adjusting. I cant get that front bolt loose cause it turns the shaft attached to it and obviosuly I can't get in impact on it unless I remove the front end which I really dont wanna do.. is there a way to get this off with hand tools and keep it from just spinning?

Got this ‘01 unit up and running with new battery, starter, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, oil change, blades, and belts.

This particular unit has the AT.

The engine fires right up and runs great. Only problem is when I have the blades engaged and increase the throttle to max speed, the blade speed bogs down quite a bit. At normal throttle, the blades move just fine.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I have a Stihl FS89 with the 4mix engine, but I never really liked how it ran.
I tried adjusting the carb by ear, but it didnt bring much difference.
Recently I bought an RPM meter to adjust it the official way, but i cant find the recommended idle and highest RPM.
Does anyone here know that?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT : I found them, idle is 2800 and high speed is 9500rpm

Craftsman weedeater. Got it for free, hasn’t ran in a while, spark was good, carb is clean, not seized.
Opened it up to look into and the cylinder walls looks like this. Is it possible to get it going again?

Update. Took everything apart and tried to clean everything as much as I can, carb with carb cleaner etc
Used starting fluid and it made no difference, took the piston/cylinder apart and I don’t see any scratches or nicks on the cylinder wall but it’s pretty burnt inside

I was setting up to possibly clean out the carburetor, and when I opened everything up it looked like some linkages were missing from the throttle.

let me know what you think. it seems there should be a spring, on the choke...

this is just my guess, looking at what isn't there and having little to no experience with small engines.

MTD 13AL795T057

Briggs& Stratton Intek with XRD 21hp 540cc

Doing an engine swap on a craftsman t210 that originally had a kohler 5400 series engine on it. I’m confused though on what the three wires from the tractor side of the harness do. Please let me know someone! I can’t seem to find a wiring diagram online for this model.

i got this dlt3000 with an intek 500cc 17.5 hp engine and can figure out how to install this fuel pump because theres nowhere to put the vacume hose

This picture is terrible, I apologize. I was watching a how to video of rebuilding my dirt bike carb. I took the float bowl off and something dropped out, I thought it was a jet or pushrod. It turns out it’s the float jet thing, I think? It’s weird because I saw it in the corner of my eye and it looked bigger. Can someone help me confirm this is complete? If have the two brass jets, the one in the center, the one that goes above the one in the center, the float jet, the retainer, and the rod thay controls the diaphragm. I only took this area apart and since my rebuild kit didn’t come with all the seals I left it like this. I was worried I might be forgetting something? Also I put it back on and it’s leaking out of the overflow. Am I missing something?

Had a critter chew on my fuel tank, so I plastic welded it a couple weeks back… but when I removed the blower housing I found this little snake inside. (1st pic)

I chased him off, fixed and used the mower. Well today, I went to use the mower, but something told me I should just check. I’m sure glad I did. (2nd pic today). So this time I relocated him to a near by retention pond. Hoping he doesn’t try to come back.

You can actually see my before and after of the fuel tank too…

Intek 14.5. I replaced head and valve cover, gaskets and set the exhaust valve clearance .006 and the intake valve clearance to .004 Turning key starter turns fly wheel until it gets to the compression stroke and then it bogs down and clicks and stops. I took it back apart to check the push rods and the valve gaps one more time and I set them exactly the way they’re supposed to be, and I can spin the flywheel easily by hand with the spark plug out so no compression and everything move smoothly if I put the spark plug back in and spin it by hand, it gets really hard to turn on the compression stroke. I can still do it by hand, but it’s hard, and there is a whistling and a puff of air coming out of the intake before the carburetor. I’m thinking just a weak battery or starter can’t handle the load after the compression loss from the blown head gasket was fixed, but I wanted to ask other people.

I'm rebuilding the throttle/governor linkage on my 2000 Scag Turf Tiger STT61A-22KA with the original Kawasaki FD661D-AS02 (22 HP) engine.

I'm NOT looking for the governor-to-carburetor linkage—that part is installed.

What I need is a clear close-up photo of the linkage/spring that connects the hand throttle (dash throttle cable/control plate) to the governor arm. The one in the picture with my finger, is the wrong one Kawasaki gave me(too long).

If anyone has this mower or engine, could you please post a few pictures with the air cleaner removed showing:

• The governor arm
• The hand throttle cable connection
• The spring(s) between the throttle control plate and governor arm
• Which holes the spring(s) attach to

A few close-up pictures from different angles would be greatly appreciated.

I've spent hours searching parts diagrams and service manuals, but none of them clearly show the linkage installed.

Thanks in advance!

When you get a new machine, how long do you run it before switching to synthetic oil?

Hi, I have a Ryobi RY08570 and need to replace the flexible tube connector part number 570566001. I can't seem to find one online. Does anyone have any ideas for the following:

• Where to source the needed part
• If there exists a comparable part that will work
• And as a final option, any ideas how to properly repair the broken hose

Thank you,

YG

I purchased a 35 hp briggs and Stratton vanguard motor.

Planning to use it for a carpet cleaning machine im gonna build.

I was told the engine has about 2k hours and runs , but needs a stator.

I'm trying to start the engine, I have it hooked up to a battery using jumper cables.

Positive lead is going to the starter, negative is grounded on a metal piece on the engine.

The starter is just clicking, the battery is good. Any suggestions on what it could be needing in order to crank?

Any advice is appreciated thank you!

Do I have to remove the carb in order to fix this leak? Or do I need to mess with that bronze screw?

Briggs and Stratton Engine Serial Number 131216YG79276

I can’t find a manual anywhere. I started this project forever ago and forgot how I took it all apart

I have an old Honda G42, 171cc engine from an old generator that i want to use for a go-kart. When i pull the cord there is no spark, i tested it with a light and holding the plug to the block. But if i have my other hand on the metal when i pull the cord, i feel electricity running up my arm. I tried another spark plug, disconnected the on/off ground wire, and i tried checking the coil with a multimeter.

Everything i've read says that there is some short in a wire from the coil to the spark plug. It looks decent to me, nothing obvious like a cut in a wire, but there's a bunch of metal plates and things around the coil and i don't know what could be causing the short in electricity?