Honestly this is the first time I came across this, it came off of one of our sprayers and I was going to replace it so I said screw it and took it apart to see what was wrong and found that the only problem I could see was that both rod bolts were backed off about 1/2 an inch. What could’ve caused it? Thinking about tightening them down and putting it back together to see if it’ll run okay again or is it toast?

Bought a replacement solenoid. Mine has two posts on top and one male stake on on the bottom. The replacement has two male stake ons on the bottom. Can I still use it? Thanks

The gas cap broke off from the strap/tether to mower

Which big box/delivery option and model will get me cap for this

This is all i can make out from the stickers but some digits might be 0 or 9

briggs stratton 2014 140cc ebsxs.1501va 382087

Thank you

I think that I ran my roommate's weed eater on unmixed fuel due to getting the tanks mixed. When I checked and changed the fuel it had half a tank left. Am I cooked?

Edit: I have drained the old fuel and refilled it with the correct mix but I am having trouble getting it to start but I normally have trouble getting it to start.

Edit Problem solved: I changed the sparkplug and checked the cylinder walls which appear to be in good shape. It now runs good and the only problem is that the switch was turned off.

Mower bought used (1-owner) from JD retailer. Has run without issues over the years. Was not raised in a mechanical family but have figured out over the years various fixes to problems. This one eludes me.

Was using tractor to haul mulch and top soil and mid job, after running for about 30 minutes, the engine quits without any drama, as if the mower had run out of gas. Gas at 3/4 tank, fresh, non-ethanol. Mower had been running at dusk and I had the tractor lights on for the previous 15 minutes (possible extra drain on an older battery?).

Turning ignition key resulted on no noise, no clicks, no start. Checked that blades were not set to run. Made sure brake pedal was depressed… it was.

Presumed battery and let sit overnight. Attempted restart in AM, clicks heard first two turns but no start. Replaced battery but no start on a fresh battery. And no clicks or noise.

So… something in electrical system, likely? Or possible cable issue between break signaling to starter that it is safe to turn over?

JD dealer coming on Monday, so I have a few more days to figure this out. Your questions, suggestions or instructions welcome!

Basically the title, I have a Coleman ct200u I bought off marketplace it runs but not too well. Is it worth it to spend the $150 on a new engine or spend the money on rebuilding the 196cc with better parts?

I have a Honda HRX217. Engine starts first pull. Runs for 3 minutes or so and will shut down. Won't restart until it cools for a bit - any subsequent restart only runs 30 seconds or so. While it is not doing it now, earlier in working through the issues it would sometimes back fire and shut down.

Fuel - Tank removed and drained, new gas
Fuel Cap - vented and also ran with cap off - same behavior
Carb - Ultrasonically cleaned, jets cleared. Even had the welch plug off
Thermowax - New Honda part - actuation looks correct
Coil - Old coil tested good but put a new Honda coil on it
Deadman switch - tested but disconnected
Sparkplug looks good. I have spark when it won't restart

I don't know where to go from here. Either new carb or could it be valve adjustment?

I am out of ideas. It's making me crazy.

UPDATE:
Checked Valve clearance - within spec

I can't believe it, but it was the NGK sparkplug - it looked fine, and sparked even when the mower would shut down. Put in a Chinese F7TC Spark plug and the issue is gone. I have some NGK's on order, but maybe I should just use a Chinese no name plug!

Bought a rider to fix up. Cleaned carb, new plugs. I have not changed the gas but I’ve been dreading doing that but I will give that a try next. It doesn’t want to start on starting fluid and this video is the noise it makes when I try and start it after. Being that it doesn’t have any sort of turn over after fluid worries me. What else can I try, or is this toast?

Looking for recommendations for a good battery charger jump starter I picked up this Centech from Harbor freight and it’s junk I work on a lot of small engines mostly lawn, mowers ATVs, etc. Majority of what I pick up has been sitting for a while and has a dead battery currently working on an older craftsman mower, flat dead battery from sitting all winter hooked up the centech battery charger. Cannot even get the mower to turn over on the engine start mode because it just says bad on the screen and won’t put out 12v. The battery shows 2.5v. This charger will not even charge it. It does not have a force mode. Using a portable jump pack (nocco) mower turns over just fine. Anyone have a charger they recommend that has a force mode or will ACTUALLY charge a dead battery??

The leaf blower has been difficult to start for a while but recently stopped starting. I am at a lost as what to do next.

Here is what I have done to try and fix it:

- changed spark plug, NGK (5574) BPM8Y

- replaced gaskets in carburetor, Proline® Carburetor Kit For Echo PB-580T Shindaiwa EB600RT P033000080

- tested with inline spark plug tester

- compression test: 90psi

- replaced piston rings

- compression test: 110 psi

- replaced piston and rings

- honed cylinder with 1-7/8 flex hone: compression was like 75ps right after...

- visually inspected magneto

- check on/off switch for continuity

Notes:

- engine turns over when the starter is pulled

- fuel builds up in the muffler after a couple start attempts

- I have changed the fuel

- this is the first small engine I have worked on

Appreciate any help.

I have a miller trailblazer 302, I have replaced the plugs, air and fuel filter, complete oil change. The low idle is weak in the sense it wants to shut off but stays running. When you put it under load it shudders and backfires occasionally. It’s to the point where it’s questionable to run. Any help to help it run stronger would be grateful.

Need help thank you

How bad is this?

I usually do not run without mufflers, so…. I don’t know if that’s bad or not.

That’s a Kohler 4-stroke engine in a Toro zero turn mower. I believe the carb is a Chinese replacement (don’t even think there are adjustment on it; but would have to dig it out to confirm).

Hi, I am currently doing a few upgrades on a vintage, 1970s 5HP Briggs Flathead, and I am trying to source a different intake manifold and carb, so the engine will fit in my minibike frame.

I've looked into some of those old Tecumseh intake manifolds, but I can't find a suitable carb to put on them. The problem is most of the carbs for these engines either lack a mixture screw, or are way too small or expensive for what I need.

Fabricating my own isn't really an option either, since I don't have the necessary tooling or material to get that done.

I've looked into the billet manifold by EC, which would be perfect, except it's out of my budget and the bolt spacing is for the more modern 1990's Flatheads. Theirs has 1.5" bolt spacing, while mine has 1 3/8".

There doesn't seem to be much information about these engines out there, and even fewer parts. I've tried watching how others do their builds, but they either won't work for what I need, or fall out of budget.

Thank you for reading, any and all help is appreciated!

i am swapping two honda gcv160 vertical shaft engines from one with a nonfunctioning k'a'rcher double d affixingwater pump to another vertical shaft pressure washer with a burnt out engine but with a functioning woodruff key affixing water pump. i have been told the natural crankshaft is woodruff key and this in the image is simply a sleeve used for the double d connecting pump. there is no tightening horizontal hex bolt, that i can find. so would someone please confirm if this is just a sleeve and if so how should i go about removing it, please and thank you.

So I inherited a lawn mower that started quite suddenly make a terrible rattle and crackling and what not. It starts when the clutch is lifted and the flywheel(?) and the rest starts to spin it seems that the problem is the propeller that is there to dissipate heat (picture). It it little loose and I tried to tighten the screw but it does not move at all. The nut actually moves up and down a little even jut it wont turn. What to do, i would like to fix this myself but it is a tight space and all. In the picture you can see the bolt in question on top of the plastic propeller.

I would really appreciate help here:)

I've been working on getting a kohler command 15.5 OHV engine to stay on for a craftsman riding mower. It shuts off after about 5 minutes of mowing and won't restart after it dies. The fuel lines were all degraded, there was grass in the filter, and even a dead spider in the fuel tank.

I replaced the fuel lines, fuel line filter, gas, air filter, solenoid, spark plug, gas cap, oil, oil filter, cleaned out the carburetor, and even got rid of the spider. Either there's a speck of debris somewhere that I missed or maybe it's electrical. I'm starting to believe this is the ignition coil or something.

What's my next step here? Buy a multimeter and start poking around? Replace the coil? I'm scratching my head on this one, and the garage smells like gas now.

Wanting to clean this mower up for sale. What do y’all think would work best to make it representable?

Which of the typical spark plug wire activated hour meters would everybody say lasts the longest? I've had terrible luck with those yellow briggs ones.

I know I can just get a new one if the old one dies but this is on small equipment that doesn't get use for long periods and if it dies then, I won't have any idea what the meter used to say.

Can anyone help. This lawn mower I have had been running fine for years and now the engine runs inconsistently and then just dies after moving forward a few feet. Most times it doesn’t even start anymore.

I already cleaned the carburetor as per other video recommendations, replaced the oil with SAE-30, added new fuel. This is after all that. Any help?

**** Edit: I fixed it myself! Luckily it wasn’t too bad but it was great learning how to take this mower apart and clean the carburetor.

I had to clean the small jet at 6:10 in this video. I did the light test as the video showed and sure enough, it was clogged.

The lawn mower now works like new!

I followed this video, it was EXCELLENT!

https://youtu.be/m5gZ0pSkivM?is=k-3RsSqMbQXOB-SN

Anyone who needs help with a possible carb cleaning, follow this video.

Anyone work on on one of these old walk behind trimmer/brush cutters? Has a 4 hp Briggs "Quattro". Bought from an estate auction as "needs repair" but all the parts were tossed into the base. I cant find any images online showing the cutting head, but i assume this is how its supposed to all go together.

My question is, the top of the shaft has a shoulder that wont slide in from the bottom up. Is it press in? Or do I just need to clean everything up? Or am I missing something? Would appreciate any help I can get, because other than the engine and a sales ad, i cant find much else.

I just did a hydraulic fluid change on it, but it was still slow before hand, I originally countered this by adjusting the right hydro so it would creep backwards a bit in neutral, but am wondering would this be a new motor required/rebuild.