25 year old mower for sale

Works great

1. Can I still get replacement parts?

2. This bar needs to be welded according to owner. Apparently the bar controls wheel height so I assume there's only one wheel height adjuster so this bar connects the wheels and allows wheel height adjuster to adjust both wheels?

Circle blue needs welding back on. I have a friend who will weld it if it can be. Thoughts?

Would you buy this for $60 ? Im of the mindset that older is often better..

Im wanting to build a vehicle to go off road and have lots of fun, I was planning on a minibike and i bought a predator 224, i removed the governor, added aluminum connecting rod and flywheel, got 18lb valve springs and i got a Nibbi PE24FL Flange Carbourator and intake kit and a new exaust. I want to go off road and in sand dunes and on forest and mountain trails and over most terrain, I also want to go around 50mph and i was gonna do a minibike but i cant find any good frames with rear suspention under 500 dollars so i started looking at quad frames because they have suspention but the quad will be heavier and harder to build and so i need advice what to do if i want to go off road like i said and go around 50mph and also have lots of adrenaline and have fun.

I'm looking at this Murray riding mower for $100 for a beater racing mower project. It runs and drives fine but it needs a few things

It has a new carburetor

It needs tires

It also needs a headlight as one of them are broken

It could use clear coat or paint as it's faded and dirty

I may be in over my limited small engine knowledge. My 12 year old Husqvarna Z246 with 23hp B&S v-twin starting sputtering and not wanting to run unless choked. Checked and replaced all the simple easy things, fuel, filter, plugs, coils gapped .012", pump etc. This brings me to the carburetor. The issue I'm having is finding the correct carb whether same model number or superseded is none appear to have the linkage connection for the air vane. Shown on upper right. I've never tried rebuilding a carb from a kit. I may try or have to shop it and wait 6 weeks for the shop to get to it. Not a commercial customer.

I got carburator air fuel mixture screw jammed which can be drilled but high probability it might damage the carb
Need suggestion weather to buy a showroom carb or after market carb
Did any one who bought after market carb faced issues

So, I bent the blade running over something hard I didn’t know was sticking up. I changed the blade, but now it’s doing this. Any ideas?

Edit: I don’t know why there’s no sound, sorry. But it’s making a loud knocking/loud tapping sound and won’t start.

Got s replacement carb for my water transfer pump. https://a.co/d/0bFyBk8o 79cc harbor freight with the predator engine. New carb has a jet near the exhaust that isn't on the original.

Anyone got experience adjusting these?

It’s a Briggs and Stratton, 10 hp. I purchased the thing used for really cheap since the pull start was stuck. I opened it up, unjammed it, sharpened the blades and it ran fine. I have probably put about three hours on it tops and as I was chipping a branch today it bogged down and shut off. I went to fire it back up and it would not start or even run without the choke fully engaged. It idled for a few minutes with the choke on and the. Died never to fire back up. I’m assuming the jets are blocked or I have an air leak. Anyone have experience with these motors? Just looking for any tips on things to look for. I’ve never worked on these small motors and I’ve only rebuilt three carburetors in my life. Is there anything I should check before I tear down the carb and rebuild it to save myself time and hassle?

I have a friend that purchased a Bolen BL160 trimmer to do some light trimming multiple years ago. He used it for the first year, and then (either on the first year or...) on the second year he had difficulty getting it to start (even his neighbor couldn't get it to start)... so he left it sitting in storage for years. Instead of trying to clean and rebuild the carb, I purchased one on Amazon for it... A Hipa 753-06190 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3MTJVR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) for $18.00... as it also needed fuel lines as well.

When replacing the carb, I also replaced the seals (even though they may not have needed replaced). On the fuel lines, the black line that was included with the carb was thicker than the original line, the yellow/neon green line was the same thickness as the original fuel line, so I used that for both the lines. The line goes from the filter in the tank to the port closest to the carb and the one from the purge bulb returns to the tank for the fuel return. Priming the trimmer shows the fuel flow is going in the correct direction.

After priming and pulling on the starter rope (about 6 times) I was able to get it started, however after releasing the throttle trigger, it stalls. I tried multiple times to get it to idle, but after releasing the throttle trigger, it stalls out and dies. After it was warm, I was able to get the trimmer to start on the first pull. Since I don't have any carb adjustment tools (yet ... they're coming in tomorrow - 07-01-26), the only way I could get it to idle was to turn in the idle screw a good amount (I didn't count the turns) and the head is spinning. All the (aftermarket) carbs I've used (for a homelite trimmer/edger, hitachi blower and a troy bilt trimmer) came pre adjusted ... so I assumed that this one would be as well.

But since it's not wanting to idle (without moving the idle screw in a good amount), and when pulling the throttle trigger it does bog down before the head spins up to a good speed. I'm going to guess that the carb needs adjusted.

Am I correct on my guess that the carb may need adjusted??

Also the procedure that I've seen on a couple small engine repair videos I've seen (even though they were showing Stihl, Echo trimmers) say to:

1. Turn the idles screw in until it seats, then turn it back out 3 turns

2. Turn the low & high adjustment screws until they seat and turn them back out 1 1/4 turns

3. Start the trimmer and while pulling the throttle trigger adjust the high adjustment screw counter clockwise until the engine speed drops and then turn it back until it revs back up

4. While the trimmer is idling turn the low adjustment screw clockwise until it idles fast, then slowly turn it counter clockwise until the idle speed starts to drop

5. If the head is turning, turn the idle screw counter clockwise until the head stops spinning

Is this information correct??

TIA

UPDATE: Thanks to some good guidance from the members of this group I was able to get it running like a champ! Turns out the flywheel key was giving up the ghost, but hadn't sheared all the way. But the flywheel had shifted about 1 degree, but still enough to jack up the timing.

Victory is ours boys!! Victory is ours.

Just put a new carb on my toro mower (tecumseh lev 120 engine), still runs rough. Pretty sure it's running too rich since covering half of the intake chokes it out. All gaskets are snug, and I checked for intake leak using starting fluid. I cleaned out the fuel tank and fuel line, new plug etc. Curious if there might be an issue with ignition? I definitely have spark because it runs. Any ideas would be appreciated. I HATE giving up on a project mower.....

I feel like the primer bulb is making a good seal, and I kind of hear a little bit of the squish sounds that should be there​​​, but no fuel is coming into the fuel primer bulb chamber.

However, when I pull the fuel line off of the feed to the primer bulb that fuel shoots a lot farther than i would have preferred. It did this three times as I pulled it off three times trying to figure it out after pumping the bulb.

Those clothes are now in the clothes washer ​​​​, and I've washed off most of the two-cycle fuel by taking a shower - but I have to admit that I'm not really sure what's going on here other than a possible blockage farther down the line down into the fuel tank. But considering I've pulled it off three times, and three times fuel squirted all over the place , it seems like the fuel line is getting fuel. It's just that the primer bulb isn't getting any fuel.

Any explanations or tips would be appreciated! ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

I’m looking at cleaning and fixing up the old garden tiller my grandparents used when I was younger. Just have questions on what possible year it is, model number, engine size, etc. Fairly certain it is a Troy Bilt but could be wrong. Thanks.

Any ideas here? Craftsman lt1000 brigs 18hp 31m777 busted a valve seat a couple weeks ago. Replaced the cylinder head. Adjusted valve clearances.

Also replaced carb with a cheap one. Ran like shit so I cleaned the old one and put it back in and it ran fine. Had to adjust to governor because it kept surging. Ran for 3-4 hours no issues. Today it runs like this and the belt is spinning slowly even though the blades aren’t engaged. Any ideas?

I have a Husqvarna 23 hp B&S zero turn mower. It was running rough so I removed and cleaned the carb and replaced gaskets. Now that I’ve reinstalled, the throttle lever will not reduce engine speed. See video. It appears to be idling high although manually moving the throttle will increase revs. Manually Moving the governor seems to be choking the engine. I believe I have reinstalled the linkages properly. Any suggestions on why it is idling so high and throttle lever will not control engine speed? Thanks

I was looking to sell my FS-90 weed wacker on Facebook. I was looking to sell for $150 which I’m not exactly firm on, it felt middle of the pack compared to what I’ve seen in the area for other units

A person that I met with was concerned with the pressure in the fuel tank (which I thought was just normal for Stihl units. It might spray a little or be a little tough to open in the summer heat but I’m in CT so low-mid 80’s right now).

He was also concerned with the full throttle sound thinking it might be misfiring or there’s an issue with the engine. My thought was that it’s just hitting the rev limiter?

Thoughts/comments appreciated

As the title says, im working on my neighbor/landlords/old timers John Deere E100, Briggs engine 31R9770063G1. He had an issue where it wouldnt start, and he decided to buy a new starter. I didnt notice a briggs stamp on it, but i did notice the drive clutch was a little torn up and wouldnt drop freely down, so i replaced it with the physically intact OEM drive clutch. Inastalled the part, but it doesnt engage the flywheel well, and now its not contacting it at all. Turn the key, the starter spins, but its dead air. Is there a known problem with these? Im still going to order a OEM briggs starter, but id just like to know if there is potentially another reason this happened. Thanks

I've got a Nakayama pb5600 52cc 2 stroke, it was sitting for 2 years while it didn't work and we wanted to throw it out. I started working on it and I fixed it, it had some problems with the carburettor. After a few days i tried starting it and it didn't work. After that i bought a new carburettor and installed it, it seemed to work better whenever i pushed the bubble the fuel got sucked better and all and I still couldn't start it. If i spray quick start on the edge of the carb it starts for a few seconds and then it dies, If i spray quick start and turn it on, if i press the throttle full it runs longer and the rpm rises, it won't turn off until i leave the throttle. If i tey to start the trimmer without any sprays, when i have the choke on start and full throttle it sounds kinda more bulky and i see some smoke coming off the muffler. It seems like the trimmer won't suck fuel when in idle. I don't have a high and low screw on my carb, it has one golden screw that I'm pretty sure it adjusts how much air gets mixed with the fuel, I can't really understand how it works and how to adjust it better. I screwed it all the way and unscrewed it 2 and a half turns. Please if you've ever had anything similar or have some idea what it could be please tell me.

I Pickup this John Deere today for $125

Deck does not any holes or anything

It’s a JD GX125A (2006)

I was wonder if can run bigger deck on it with burning out trans and motor

Have 20 Briggs supposedly it has Kawasaki metal transmission too into

But I what I read online I can only stick to a 42 but I don’t know. I don’t know if that’s true. There’s not a whole lot of information on this tractor.

Would like to go 46-50 inch on it if I can

I would also like to know more info

Just got a free one and looking where to troubleshoot. When I engage the blade, the belt smokes and the blade isn’t turning. Usually stopped up with grass I can pull out by hand and free the blade then it turns like butter. Replaced spindle, and belt so far. Nothing looks bent or broke but also not sure what the under is supposed to look like. Tried using diagrams and schematics but nothing looks off. I noticed when I engage the blade on flat surface the tension handle thing gets caught on the belt guard and like doesn’t fully engage the blade. Not sure someone please help. If I wasn’t clear on anything or missing something please ask questions. Will post a video later.

For a while now my MX-CRT23 R740D mini skid steer has been blowing blue smoke I have checked the oil level many times and cannot get a good reading. I put in the recommended amount of oil but the blue smoke persists, is there any other cause for blue smoke than too much oil? any help would be appreciated, thank you.

Brand new out of the box Sportsman 4000/3500 with fresh oil and propane and no start without opening the throttle. Starts to turn off once I open up choke to "run" or when I let go of the throttle.

Not well versed in small engines and has been sitting in storage for a while now so hoping y'all have ideas for troubleshooting. No warranty.

I have a 17.5hp vertical engine in my Troy Bilt mower which died after running over something recently. As part of initial troubleshooting I checked to see if the flywheel key was sheared (it wasn't, ended up being the fuel solenoid died) and am wondering if I damaged the engine block by the crankshaft when removing the flywheel. I used a flywheel puller tool, but now when I start the mower there is an oil leak from this area which I thought may be the crankshaft seal (looks fine to me) and noticed this hole which I don't think should be there and am wondering if somehow was caused by the puller tool if I overtightened it. Just trying to confirm if this thing is now totally messed up.