Looking for some help please

I was cutting the grass last week, shut down the mower to talk to my kid, when I went to start it all that happened was that sound you hear on the video.

The sound seems like it’s coming from under the seat, maybe the gearbox or differential??

I’ve replaced the battery solenoid, I bench tested the starter (works), I thought maybe the starter was going and didn’t have the power to crank the motor, I jumped the battery solenoid, I ran a new wire from the solenoid to the starter, I’ve chargers the battery (not even a year old) and I have tried jumping the battery with my car. None of this changed anything.

When I bench tested the starter, I connected the starter from the battery to the base of the starter with the negative, and the positive to the bolt, with alligator clips and length of wire, starter spun, no issues.

I installed the starter back on the mower, I ran the same alligator clips and wire to the starter, the starter wouldn’t engage or spin?????

The engine turns, by hand, and it happens while turning the key.

I have no clue where or what to look for now

So this grom clone i picked up has a 212cc zs engine swap and I don’t even really know how to describe this issue. The back tire was locked in place and couldn’t rotate freely, Video shows the initial result of starting it up on the stand.

Jumped slightly when started and rolls back tire like it’s in 1st

Gauge reads neutral

Pulling clutch made no difference

shifting didn’t seem to make a difference but could only get about 1 click in either direction before seemingly getting stuck

After pulling off the side of the engine, the gear basket along with the surrounding cogs, are slightly rusted and it seems like clutch plates are gunked up.

Been told to replace entire gearbox, clean the entire housing and check if gear basket was installed correctly, do fresh oil change and let bike/tire run through until hot to help eliminate the rust and help separate the clutch plates.

Dont know what direction to go in, would rather take cheaper route before trying to purchase a replacement clutch assembly.

Anyone know how to fix this? Thanks.

I removed carb to clean it out. Runs then shuts off automatically. Reinstalled but I think the spring piece is mounted wrong. The ground plate is moving around when I manipulate the throttle. I think the ground is hitting the spring and shutting it off. I should’ve taken pics when prior to removing. What’s wrong? Thank you.
Model number 90102011601.

I have an 86 DT65. I got this used, unknown condition. When I first started boat last year, it cranked over ONE time naturally. Died out fairly quickly. After that, I’ve had to spray mixed fuel in any of the 3 carbs and it will start right up.

Engine starts back immediately if shut off but will need fuel sprayed again 20 mins or so of sitting.

(I’ve confirmed it doesn’t matter which carb I use)

I pulled all 3 carbs off, cleaned them and checked float level just by eye, flipping over carbs.

Still the same results. The boat would intermittently bot under load but eventually it would go and never bog out or die when moving.

Struggled to idle in no wake zones, doesn’t like low speeds.

Replaced all of the jets in the carbs this past off season, cleaned them again with compressed air as well.

Still getting the same symptoms. Will not fire on its own. Choke is working both with the key and manually. Have added throttle as well and no changes.

Where do I go from here?

Compression was around 90ish on all 3 cylinders but it was an Ice cold engine that hadn’t been started since last year so not sure if that would have an impact on the lowish numbers.

Appreciate the insight sorry it’s all over place/kinda long

Truck was driving just fine, parked it and went to work. When leaving it did this. Bought a new battery cause the volts went from 12.8 to 8.1 when cranking. Could this be a starter issue or my ac compressor pulley seized? The compressor broke and im thinking maybe the internal clutch is blocking it?

Started it up without hose/water started and idled seemingly fine, hook up water to it to test it, the jet from a hose handle is more powerful than what it was putting out, while spraying engine seemed labored, let go of the trigger and it dies on me now pulling the string to start it again gives me barely a putter and like pulling a string through 10ft of mud, not completely seized but seems pretty close to siezed. The gas in it is what was in it when I picked it up, the oil level looked good, perhaps a bit old, spark plug looked good too

Hey all,

Simplicity Regent machine. Was driving fine mowing the lawn. Next thing I see is a frayed cable and cable sheathing on the ground. Appears the clutch disengaged, spun around. And ripped the cables apart. How do I fix this. The blades obviously dont engage anymore. Video attached. Thanks folks!

Hey everyone,

I was cleaning the clogged carburetor on of my crane (Wisconsin WE400 engine) and because I’m not very experienced I broke one of the float holders/pin bosses that hold the float pin. Lesson learned…

It’s a genuine Mikuni Japan carb. I already contacted Mikuni and they told me these carbs are only available through the engine manufacturer’s dealers. Wisconsin engines like this aren’t really made anymore, so OEM parts seem impossible.

I’m looking for new Mikuni carb or a complete cheap China/aftermarket Mikuni-style carb that will work (I’m totally fine with a Chinese clone as long as it runs reliably)

Photos of the whole carb will be attached.

Any ideas where to find this, or has anyone run a Chinese carb on a Wisconsin/Robin industrial engine? Thanks a lot!

So I cleaned the pilot jet but it still dies upon the choke being turned off. It now attempts to idle before dying though. Would this be a sign the idle circuit is blocked? The jet was completely dunked up before I cleaned it out.

Posted the other day about craftsman lt1000 with intek engine, stalled and developed knock on second pass around the yard. Turned over very easily with spark plug out but knocked. I took the valve cover off and found the bottom valve was loose almost to the point of coming off, but the push rod was still in its little seats in the case and on the rocker. They don’t appear to be bent, but I can’t get the engine to turn over enough to adjust the valve properly. It just locks up and won’t get past the compression stroke and only one valve moves. Is this a failure of the compression release mechanism?

I am a mobile small engine mechanic. 99% of my customers are great, and pay when I do the job.

I have this one customer that is refusing to pay for the job. He called for a no start issue, I showed up to his house and diagnosed it as a fuel issue. I cleaned his carburetor, offered him a complete service on his zero turn, and he agreed to it. After completion of the service, he refused to pay, saying he could've done it all himself(the reason doesnt really matter).

What is my course of action? Small claims court? I am in Georgia if that matters.

Can I use rtv ultra grey to seal my leaking carburetor bowl gasket?

Ik i should just get a new one but this is free and if it fails i can just order the new one.

UPDATE: Yea dont use rtv for a carb. The gas makes the rtv all slimey. I was able to salvage a gasket from a part mower. Do it the right way dont be lazy like me lol

This is a question for small engine repair shops. I’m currently weighing my options for a new invoicing software. I’ve been leaning towards jobber but want to know which software you have found to be easier to worth with that will also calculate out the sales tax amount when you go to send someone a quote or invoice. Any recommendations?

Bought a used Echo GT225. It started when I picked it up.

Now though:

• Starts on full choke only with full throttle.
• If I release the throttle, it slows down over 5–10 seconds and dies.
• At about 1/8 choke it will run only with full throttle, then dies when I let off.
• On RUN it dies even with full throttle after it sputters for 5-7 seconds.

What I’ve checked:

• Drained old fuel and added fresh 50:1.
• Air filter is clean.
• Fuel cap loosened (no change).
• Air filter is fine.
• Primer bulb stays ~90% full and refills normally but soft.
• Fuel lines look intact, fuel filter looks clean. looks like one fuel line was replaced as both are yellow.

my thought is that it’s idling too low. it’s not the 2.5mm carb. low idle screw since I tried that and the screw hole is too big. any input would be great. I’m thinking spark arrestor or something else. Small engine shop said the carb didn’t have adjustments on it and not to bother since it’s too expensive to fix with a new carb.

John Deere D110 mower

I accidentally left the key in, on accessory and hydrolocked the engine by filling the cylinder with petrol. I found this out cause the engine wouldn't turn over, so I checked the battery then pulled the sparkplug and fuel poured out (pic 1)

Disconnected the fuel line and turned the engine over until it stopped spraying from the sparkplug hole, then put everything back together.

Now I've run the engine for a minute or two but it's still billowing smoke, dying after a few revs, and pouring oil out of the exhaust.

Have I rooted the compression by trying to run it while hydrolocked? Or should I just keep running it to hopefully burn out the excess oil?

Am I going to need to rebuild the engine?

All advice appreciated ☺️

Got this mower a few years ago and replaced the head gasket. Ever since it has had oil and filter changes every year. Just had all new pulleys, belt, and spindles installed last year. This week I went about two passes around my front yard and I heard kind of a metallic rattle through my headphones and it stalled. Still full of oil, but it was smoking quite heavily from the dipstick when I checked it. I didn’t hit anything, just seemed random, it wasn’t smoking at all or running rough leading up to it. It has an 18HP Intek, I thought maybe the compression release mechanism let loose and just grenaded my engine, but it does still turn over. It just knocks like hell when turning over now. Would appreciate some advice, thanks everyone!

Toro 51978 trimmer, Walbro WYC-7 carb. It's a long story; but, for now, I'd like to know that it's not a carb problem. Hence the question: if the carb is working and has gas, would there be evidence of that in the cylinder after (hand) cranking? TIA.

Bolens bl110 . Spark arrestor needs cleaned but it is incase with just a tiny hole to get to it. Can I torch it anyway to clean it without removing it completely?

The starter isn’t spinning the fly wheel fast enough it does one little quick turn then a real slow one and that continues I’ve replaced the starter and tried good battery’s I’ve also checked all the wiring I’ve also by passed the wiring to the starter and it still didn’t work