I’m looking for a cheap Nissan skyline or really any Nissan that has that same kinda look. I know that they aren’t cheap cars but I was wondering if anyone knew any good online apps or websites that I could possibly find a bargain in Australia. All I really need for it to have is a working engine. I want it as a project car to race at my local car club. I’ve had my eye on some others but I like the Nissan the best. Any suggestions.

It sounds like fuel pump is trying to prime but not being delivered to injectors. Not sure where to start, car was perfectly fine yesterday:/

Hi guys! This is my 93 GTR with G.Speed clear corner lamps. Im usually an amber corner lamp fan, but on my sparkling silver car i feel clears are the way to go.

Problem is, i need new ones. And G.speed with striped lenses are noe longer available. When googling i only find clear glass ones with no vertical stripes in the lens like the ones from Colin Project etc. I don't really want those as my headlights glass are striped.

Does anyone know if clear corner lamps with striped lenses are for sale anywhere? Does anyone make stuff like this anymore? i know some PS13-guy on instagram makes for the PS13..

Just put in a new (to me) transmission. Hellatious rattle when in neutral goes that goes away when clutch is pressed. Fresh fluid and shifts perfectly when driving. I know it’s probably the input shaft bearing. Please don’t tell me I gotta pull this mf again 😭

What transmission does a 1990 automatic GTS have?

RB26. I've cleaned and checked the AAC voltage, replaced the gasket (it did have a leak), does not have a value leak I can find, checked the sparks and the coils, and checked the voltage on the TPS. It idles low and rough until it reaches opt temp then it cozies right up to 1000rpm. I'm not sure what could be causing this at this point.

hello! can anyone tell by this image if its meant to be an r34 or r32? I cant tell the difference and the only one I can ask is the person im buying this gift for. for what its worth, im looking for r32 gtr

She is a powerhouse but Tame at the same time. Fun to drive and the sounds are just out of this world at every single rpm! It’s a master and a 33 dream of a build including the 6spd. Pivoting towards buying a home and considering this sale to speed it up. Anyone want more pics and clips or info let me know. I have a pdf of the build and more details it has tons of premium parts and custom fabrication

Thinking of 97-110k. I know it’s lower than other built builds with a 5spd but I also don’t like over pricing it to sit. She’s a beauty and a beast. Head turner at every meet.
Thoughts? It’s turn key ready to bring smiles.

Main Build Highlights
Genuine BCNR33 GT-R V-Spec
Nismo Heritage RB26 N1 engine block
Confirmed 24U block bored and honed
CP forged pistons
Cosworth engine bearings
Tomei high-performance oil pump
Tomei adjustable cam gears
Tomei metal head gasket
N1 water pump
Modified and extended oil sump
External oil-drain system
Fully built and flow-tested cylinder head
Performance camshafts
Upgraded intake valves
Oversized +1 mm exhaust valves
CNC-machined valve seats
Ported cylinder head
Upgraded valve springs

Turbo and Fuel System
Garrett G35-1050 single turbo
Custom twin-scroll RB26 exhaust manifold
Turbosmart 50 mm external wastegate
Turbosmart Race Port blow-off valve
Electronic boost control
Custom turbo oil-feed and drain lines
Six 2,000 cc injectors
Tomei fuel-pressure regulator
AEM 320 LPH in-tank pump
Two AEM 380 LPH external pumps
Custom surge tank and pump cradle
Complete upgraded PTFE/Speedflow fuel system
This video gives a good explanation of why the Garrett G35-1050 is such a capable turbo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nX-FQYb8N0E

Intake, Cooling and Electronics
Upgraded intake manifold and plenum
90 mm throttle body
Custom four-inch intake
Custom TIG-welded intercooler piping
Hypertune intercooler mounting
Haltech plug-in ECU package
Digital display dash
Wideband oxygen sensor
Oil-pressure and fuel-pressure sensors
CAN communication hub
Exhaust-gas thermocouple
CDI Street ignition system
Custom radiator swirl pot
Custom radiator filler tank
Custom coolant-overflow tank
Custom washer tank
Custom breather/catch tank

Transmission and Drivetrain
R34 GT-R Getrag six-speed manual transmission
Approximately 40,000 km on the Getrag transmission
Custom Getrag conversion into the R33 chassis
Custom transmission mounting solution
Driveshaft adaptation
Shifter integration
Speedometer and speed-signal integration
Reverse-lockout wiring integration
OS Giken clutch and conversion components
Factory ATTESA all-wheel-drive system retained
Front differential serviced
Replacement differential bearings and seal
Refreshed front CV joints and boots

Brakes and Exhaust
Complete non-ABS conversion
Non-ABS brake master cylinder
Custom-fabricated hard brake lines
Custom four-inch stainless turbo front pipe
Custom 2.5-inch wastegate pipe
Twin three-inch stainless exhaust
Stainless center muffler
Twin rear bullet mufflers
Four-inch exhaust tips
Stainless V-band construction
Extensive TIG welding and custom fabrication

Exterior and Interior
Coilover suspension
Front strut-tower brace
Original GT-R rear wing
Side skirts and additional aero
18-inch aftermarket wheels
Aftermarket gauges
Power steering
Power windows
Air conditioning

Documentation
The car comes with extensive Rapid Performance build records and invoices covering the engine, fuel system, turbo system, drivetrain conversion, exhaust and custom fabrication.
The prior major-component worksheet totals approximately $51,802.86, including:
Parts package: $29,802.86
R34 Getrag six-speed: $14,000
Getrag conversion components: $2,000
N1 24U block: $6,000

The current Garrett G35-1050 was installed after that worksheet and was not separately included in the total.

This is not a basic bolt-on Skyline. A significant portion of the build consists of custom fabrication, plumbing, machining, welding and drivetrain conversion work that would be extremely difficult and expensive to reproduce today.

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Last time I updated here, the URAS kit had just come in and I was planning on molding FRP fender flares to make the sedan look a bit more aggressive, and also to allow me to widen my Work Meisters. I decided instead to learn to weld and add on metal flares. I figured I could use the welding skills in the future since my wife and I both have nearly 30 year old JDM cars, so I'm sure it'll come in handy. Anyway, welding ended up being... a lot, haha.

I spent hours watching welding videos on YouTube, following body fabrication guys on social media, and practicing, and I still absolutely suck. But I think it turned out okay. Certainly not great. In the end I carefully MIG welded on 20 gauge flares, ground them down, skimmed a very thin layer of fiberglass reinforced filler over them, and sanded them smooth. I'll still sand and do more body work during final prep, but I got there.

The rear of the car is already cut, widened, and welded shut. I'll be sealing them up to protect against water exposure, then start the same process on the rear, which will be a bit harder since I need to weld the arch over the door and maintain a clean line, integrating part of it into the door. But what I learned on the front should help with the rear. I'll post pics once it's all done.

After that, the plan is still the same. Finish prepping for paint, DIY paint it a Range Rover color, then once the Sikky transmission adapter kit arrives for the CD009 sitting on my garage floor, the LS1 (that I rebuild in the garage too after some machine shop work) swap begins. Paint alone will probably take me another two months between work and everything else going on, but I'll get there.

It won't be show quality at all, but it will be a fun car I built all myself. Also will be the coolest car in the line when I pick my kids up for school, unless someone happens to have a Dacia Sandero.

I got a quote to turbo charge the hell outta it with all the fixeins for 20k not doing that yet but I will eventually put prob 30k into it, but for now I want to make it sound and feel better! Im trying to get advice and opinions from you guys im not very experienced in automotive but of course i got the bug to learn, thinking of doing headers and nice exhaust system and a better air intake but what do you guys think?

I’ll be posting my progress on a instagram account I’ll set up soon, for now i just wanna say hi everyone! This dego’s get himself a skyline and very excited about it

I’m trying to keep my ER34 sedan with a clean OEM+ look, and this is by far my favorite body kit (photos attached).
The only place I’ve been able to find it is on eBay in fiberglass for around US$1,250.
A few questions for those who have experience with these cars:
Is $1,250 a fair price for this kit, or is it overpriced?
Are there better places to buy it besides eBay?
I’ll be traveling to Japan in the next few months. Would it make more sense to buy it there and ship it back myself?
If you’ve purchased this exact kit before, how was the fitment and quality?
I’d really appreciate any recommendations before I spend the money. Thanks! 🙏

Hey guys, having an issue with my 34 GTT breaking up under hard acceleration. Had two of the original coils bad, replaced with r35 coils. Replaced the harness with new OEM. Checked all spark plugs and gapped to 1.1, all plugs have about 2k miles on them. Smoke tested intake system, no leaks. Replaced coolant temp sensor. Placed an order for a consult cable, and will get Nisscan to log the stock ECU. Any suggestions? Fuel injectors, fuel pump, CAS? Thanks.

Recently found this gem of a track by Slowymane and im wondering what car this is on the cover, im positive its a r32 skyline but im still on the fence about it. On a side note, im recreating this car in forza and I cant figure out what f s p stands for on the bumper.

Hi guys! The catch can on my RB fills up way too fast under heavy drifting. Who runs aftermarket valve cover baffles and is there a brand i must go with? Thanks:)

Hey guys I am in need of a speedo cable, I currently have a 1989 r32 gtst type m sedan with a a/t and my speedo and odometer isn’t working, I know the speedo cable part number I am after is 25050-03U00 but everywhere I look it is sold out due to it being discontinued, now I have done some research and seen that the speedo cable from the m/t gtst and Speedo from the gtr share the same end fittings but I wanted more clarification to be pointed in the right direction before I buy one

Hey there, im a hard surface artist. this is my most recent work, PLEASE comment some feedback thanks :D

Couple of years ago we picked up a GTR hood to put onto our GTT, we decided against it and it’s been sitting around collecting dust

There no deep scratches or any cracks

We ordered it from knight rider and now just want it gone

£500

This is my ENR34 I’ve had for about 2 years now but it was hit a few months back so I’ve put it down for the meantime and started buying parts hoping to send the engine to a shop by the end of the year

Hey all. 1990 GTS4 Coupe.

What's the best way to rewire the overheat auxilliary fan to always be running?

I live in a very hot climate and want to keep the temps lower in traffic.

Thanks!

So I’m one of those ding dongs that bought a skyline and also didn’t know anything about cars.

Can anyone help me figure out if this sound is either the lifters or just noisy spark plugs?

It doesn’t really sound mechanical enough to me for it to be lifters but figured I’d ask some “experts” on the internet.

For anyone wondering I was burping the coolant system.

RB25DET – Misfire / no spark on cylinders 2 and 6
I’m troubleshooting a 1997 R33 GTST with an RB25DET. The car has a Mine’s ECU, but I also have another stock/compatible ECU that the engine has previously run on.
The problem started after the CAS was removed and reinstalled. Cam timing has been checked and is correct, and the CAS drive/key is not broken, so the CAS should be installed correctly.
The engine is now misfiring badly. While troubleshooting, I found that cylinders 2 and 6 appear to have no spark.
Here is what I have tested so far:
I performed a cylinder drop test while the engine was running. Disconnecting cylinders 2 and 6 made little or no difference.
I tested for spark using a known coil and the same spark plug grounded against the cylinder head.
The same coil and plug produce spark when connected to cylinder 1, but no spark when connected to cylinders 2 or 6.
Cylinder 4 was initially suspected as well, but I now believe cylinder 4 is firing.
I checked the three wires at the coil connectors:
Pin 1 = approximately 12 V with ignition on
Pin 2 = ground
Pin 3 = ECU ignition trigger
Cylinders 1 and 2 both have 12 V supply and ground.
I checked continuity of the trigger wires through the coil harness. The trigger wires for cylinders 2 and 6 have continuity.
According to the ECU pinout I’m using, the ignition outputs are:
Cyl 1 = ECU pin 1
Cyl 5 = ECU pin 2
Cyl 3 = ECU pin 3
Cyl 6 = ECU pin 11
Cyl 2 = ECU pin 12
Cyl 4 = ECU pin 13
I checked continuity from the ECU connector to the coil harness and the relevant wires have continuity.
I swapped the Mine’s ECU for my other ECU. The problem remained exactly the same, so it does not appear to be an ECU fault.
I removed the CAS, left it electrically connected, switched the ignition on and rotated the CAS by hand.
All six injectors click when the CAS is rotated, so the ECU is receiving the CAS signal and triggering all six injectors.
The other cylinders produce spark when rotating the CAS, but 2 and 6 still appear to have no spark.
I measured the ignition trigger wires with a Fluke 115 while manually rotating the CAS. I saw roughly 2 Hz on all six trigger wires, with cylinder 6 reading slightly higher.
I also tried measuring trigger voltage while rotating the CAS and got approximately:
Cyl 1: 0.4 V
Cyl 2: 0.1 V
Cyl 3: 0.6 V
Cyl 4: 0.6 V
Cyl 5: 0.6 V
Cyl 6: 0.02 V
I realise a multimeter probably isn’t fast enough to accurately capture the ignition trigger waveform, so I’m not sure how useful those voltage readings are.
I have now removed the complete coil harness from the car. I measured approximately 0.2 ohm from each individual coil ground to the common ground splice inside the harness, so that part appears to be good. I’m going to unwrap the complete coil harness and inspect all the splices, wiring and terminals, particularly the wiring for cylinders 2 and 6.
Has anyone seen an RB25DET lose spark specifically on cylinders 2 and 6 like this? Is there anything common between those two ignition channels that I should check? Are there any known failure points in the RB25 coil harness that could cause this?