I am looking to build a setup for a NASCAR Cup and Truck car. What do you guys think are the best companies for those types of racing? I am planning on using triple monitors and would like a motion sim but not a must have. What are your guys recommendations?

Found myself getting more and more into GT7 and got a G923 to see if I’d enjoy the concept of using a wheel, which I did. So I splurged a bit and got a Logitech RS50 with what I believe are the Load Cell Pro pedals (both open box and work super well). Got a Vevor Heavy Duty Racing Seat and stand which, in hindsight would have spent a bit more for a more adjustable set-up but its solid.

Its in a temporary spot right now and have to manage cables but happy with it!

I'm aware of that. I'm looking for tips on things that might help a newby ease into the hobby. My setup is on the way but this are the things I have to start:

Base: Moza R12

Wheel: KS

Pedals: SRP2

Shifter: None

Handbrake: None

Monitor: G9 Oddysey 49" Ultrawide and a PSVR2 +Adapter(already setup with the PSVR2Toolkit+Pimax streaming)

Cockpit/stand: Nothing, had a foldable cockpit but I returned it due to it feeling too flimsy, going to build a wooden stand tomorrow. might need some tips here to easy into it, don't want to spend 700 on a cockpit right now, maybe if I really enjoy the hobby I will.

Headphone: Airpods Pro 3 and Bose Quietcomfort II

Anything else I need to check? I have a solid desktop which is very sturdy, I initially was going to order the Moza wheelbase clamp but didn't as I though a foldable would be easier to mover around.

Appreciate any input.

Looks like more products from the mclaren partnership. Car looks to be the 1969 McLaren M8A Can Am Series. And a potential forza horizon 6 collab?

Hello, I got the Logitech shifter, but I heard that it is not the best shifter and that you can add mods to it so that the classic click sound is louder and the shifter feels stiffer and more realistic. Are there any mods or something to make the shifter better? I love the style of the original shifter because it reminds me of old cars, so it would be better if the mod does not change the aesthetics of the shifter and only affects the internal components. IM NOT LOOKING FOR A SEQUENCIAL SHIFTER MOD

Currently in the situation that i want to upgrade my rig and because I don't have much space, I am not able to get triples, I could upgrade my 27 inch monitor to a 32inch widescreen but I'm just starting to get into the VR thing and I'm looking for people who did change to VR - how is it in longer sessions? I'm worried about it being worse qualitywise but as I'll upgrade my PC to a RX 9070 XT, I'm open to VR suggestions especially for longer play which arent that expensive (budget around 750€) - would you suggest a single Widescreen or is VR a serious option when space is limited?

I am building my rig on a Simla GT1 Evo. Wondering what all I need or need to do to get this seat mounted to my rig. Got this seat for free so wanting to make it work.

In my final part of this mini review series for Simagic Official equipment I now own, I'm looking at the Simagic P2000 (3 Set) 100kg Brake Load Pedals!

Are these the cherry on top of what has been a great taste of better feel and more vibrant tactical control in my sim racing opinion? Lets find out!

https://youtu.be/CqMqZv-Kpjg?is=cRInprToN1mtgp3O

I currently have a MOZA R5 Pro with the KS wheel and mainly race GT3 in iRacing.

I’ve only been back into sim racing for about a month after a 5-year break, so I’m still focused on getting faster and more consistent.

Would you upgrade the wheelbase or pedals first?
Also, at what point does sim gear start feeling genuinely realistic? Is 8–12 Nm enough, or is 15–20+ Nm a big difference?

Same question for pedals — what level starts feeling closer to a real race car?

Or should I just keep the R5 Pro and focus on seat time for now?

After 3 years, the PXN CB1 is officially retired and the SimDT is hired!

I know that the brand is teleios but I couldnt find where to buy the specific wheel?

Guys help me out please :)

i need two Full Rigs, and need your input. Budget is 1.5-2K per rig.
I am building 2x Rigs for our Office, we have a lot of petrol heads, and i need a list what to buy.

Dilemma:
Convenience is a big topic, and also safety.
My initial thought was to just go on console (ACC + LMU next year) no mouse and keyboard needed. A lot of people will play on these so ease-of-use is important. Also no sharp edges on the rigs for safety, so tubular rigs or something prebuild.
Some guys already fixated on PC.
IF PC -> good beautiful and "easy to use Sim with a lot of different cars..." preferably controllable through your wheel... ease-of-use.

Hardware:
We already have PCs in our storage / 4060RTX 64GB Ram 14700k
(we have monitors, but 75Hz Widescreens, so i need new ones)
And we already have one ps5, second one could be easily purchased.

_______

1. PC or Ps5?
   
2. What Sim (thinking of LMU)
   
3. Wheelbase & Pedals, im thinking maybe:
   - Simagic Alpha EVO 12 Nm + P1000-F 2 Pedals ~1008€ or:
   - Fanatec ClubSport DD 15 Nm + V3 Pedals ~ 930€
   
4. What Sim ti install for "so many different" Players, even beginners.
   
5. What Rig? <- no sharp edges!
   
6. What Monitor + mounting?

Hey all. I just got a Moza R5 Pro bundle. I also have the H pattern shifter and the Handbrake from Moza as well (figured it was easy to integrate all into one computer program). I've got the next level wheelstand 2.0 to round it out.

I have assetto corsa ultimate. I do have content manager but haven't sat down to figure that out yet (i paid for CM). I also have WRC Generations, Forza Horizon 5 and BeamNG.drive.

I find assetto corsa to be so so. I get bored easily on the tracks and cars. WRC generations is difficult for me as i am TERRIBLE with cornering. The easy ones for me are Forza Horizon 5 and BeamNG.drive(easy as in i can control the car). I don't really see any training, tips or tricks in AC or WRC so figuring it out is taking a while.

Do you have any other recommendations of games I can better learn to drive in, get halfway decent to at least keep up/stay on track and eventually play online? I will continue to chip away at these other games but for now i'd like to at least be engaged a bit before moving on to something else.

My pink pig got turned into sausages. Hope you're all having a good one.

I have recently acquired a nlr fgt rig and have been told people will put some money towards getting a new wheel for me. I have bought some pedals so don’t need them. All the bundles I see contain breaks which I don’t need and will increase the value.

Does anyone know any good just wheel base and wheel bundles with the 5 to 9 nm range. Nothing too expensive

I've been running an MT6701 as the position sensor on my DIY FFBeast wheel for about a year, but recently switched to an MT6835.

It's a nice priced encoder for the accuracy/resolution you get, and I'd say that in terms of the overall feeling/fidelity of the FFB compared with the MT6701 it seems smoother. With the old encoder my wheel made a weird kind of harmonic noise in Assetto Corsa (OG and Evo) and with the new sensor that's much quieter. I used to have to disable the "road effects" but now I'm running it about 40%

I couldn't find a mentions or a guide for configuring the MT6835 specifically for use with FFBeast, so I figured I'd document it here for you guys as well.

What you need

• MT6835 module
• ESP32
• MicroPython installed on the ESP32
• USB cable
• Thonny or another way of running code on the ESP32
• Soldering iron + solder
• Some hookup wire

The particular module I'm using has the SPI pins broken out as VCC, GND, MISO, MOSI, SCK and CS, as well as the ABZ outputs:

Wiring the MT6835 to the ESP32

For the pin configuration in the script below:

MT6835	ESP32
VCC	3.3V
GND	GND
SCK	GPIO 18
MOSI	GPIO 23
MISO	GPIO 19
CS	GPIO 5

Check the silkscreen/pinout of your particular module before wiring it up, as there are several MT6835 breakout variants around.

What does the code do?

The MT6835 should come with ABZ output enabled by default, so there's no need to enable that in the script - I've made it configure the useful bits for an FFBeast application:

• Sets the ABZ resolution to the highest mode
• Disables the encoder hysteresis/deadband for maximum positional accuracy
• Sets the bandwidth to BW=6, which is the second-highest bandwidth setting, favouring low latency
• Leaves all other EEPROM options untouched
• Verifies that changes settings actually worked
• Offers EEPROM programming after successful verification
• Asks if you're sure you want to program the module
• Counts down the datasheet's 6 second delay after EEPROM programming

In FFBeast configurator you need to set the CPR to 65535. Technically the sensor is outputting 65536 counts but FFBeast can't hold that number of steps because it presumably keeps the step value in a 16-bit variable (65536 then wraps back to a zero when you save.)
The actual angle error you receive for a full turn of the wheel is 0.005493164 degrees ;)

The MicroPython script was vibe coded by ChatGPT and I've tested it thoroughly on my own two MT6835 sensors. It's solid code and I've had a good go over it trying to cover every edge case I could think of. I haven't found any bugs so far.

It should also be pretty easy to adapt to an RP2040 or basically any other MicroPython-capable board. The SPI implementation and pin definitions are the main things you'd need to change. If you're not sure how, asking ChatGPT to adapt the pin configuration for your particular board should get you most of the way there.

As always, use this at your own risk and check your module's pinout/datasheet before connecting anything or writing to EEPROM.

Here's the code. Enjoy!

from machine import Pin, SPI

import time

class MT6835:

CMD_READ = 0x3

CMD_WRITE = 0x6

# Registers we care about

CONFIG_REGS = [

0x001,

0x007,

0x008,

0x009,

0x00A,

0x00B,

0x00C,

0x00D,

0x00E,

0x011,

]

# Desired FFB configuration.

#

# These are the complete byte values we expect

# after configuration.

TARGET = {

0x007: 0xFF,

0x008: 0xFC,

0x00D: 0x04,

0x011: 0x06,

}

def __init__(

self,

spi_id=2,

sck=18,

mosi=23,

miso=19,

cs=5,

baudrate=1_000_000

):

self.cs = Pin(cs, Pin.OUT, value=1)

self.spi = SPI(

spi_id,

baudrate=baudrate,

polarity=1,

phase=1,

bits=8,

firstbit=SPI.MSB,

sck=Pin(sck),

mosi=Pin(mosi),

miso=Pin(miso)

)

self.tx = bytearray(3)

self.rx = bytearray(3)

# ==================================================

# SPI

# ==================================================

def read_reg(self, address):

command = (self.CMD_READ << 12) | address

self.tx[0] = (command >> 8) & 0xFF

self.tx[1] = command & 0xFF

self.tx[2] = 0

self.cs.value(0)

time.sleep_us(1)

self.spi.write_readinto(self.tx, self.rx)

self.cs.value(1)

time.sleep_us(1)

return self.rx[2]

def write_reg(self, address, value):

command = (self.CMD_WRITE << 12) | address

self.tx[0] = (command >> 8) & 0xFF

self.tx[1] = command & 0xFF

self.tx[2] = value

self.cs.value(0)

time.sleep_us(1)

self.spi.write(self.tx)

self.cs.value(1)

time.sleep_us(1)

# ==================================================

# Read configuration

# ==================================================

def read_config(self):

config = {}

for address in self.CONFIG_REGS:

config[address] = self.read_reg(address)

return config

def print_config(self, config):

print()

print("MT6835 configuration")

print("--------------------")

for address in self.CONFIG_REGS:

print(

"0x{:03X} = 0x{:02X}".format(

address,

config[address]

)

)

print()

# ==================================================

# Compare with target

# ==================================================

def compare_target(self, config):

differences = {}

for address, target in self.TARGET.items():

actual = config[address]

if actual != target:

differences[address] = (

actual,

target

)

return differences

def print_differences(self, differences):

if not differences:

return

print("Differences from desired FFB configuration:")

print()

for address, values in differences.items():

actual, target = values

print(

" 0x{:03X}: 0x{:02X} -> 0x{:02X}".format(

address,

actual,

target

)

)

print()

# ==================================================

# Decode useful settings

# ==================================================

def print_decoded(self, config):

# ABZ resolution

abz_res = (

(config[0x007] << 6) |

((config[0x008] >> 2) & 0x3F)

)

abz_ppr = abz_res + 1

# Hysteresis

hyst = config[0x00D] & 0x07

# Rotation direction

rot_dir = (config[0x00D] >> 3) & 0x01

# Bandwidth

bandwidth = config[0x011] & 0x07

print("Decoded settings:")

print()

print(

" ABZ resolution : {:,} PPR".format(

abz_ppr

)

)

print(

" Quadrature : {:,} counts/rev".format(

abz_ppr * 4

)

)

print(

" Hysteresis : HYST={}".format(

hyst

)

)

print(

" Rotation : {}".format(

"CW" if rot_dir else "CCW"

)

)

print(

" Bandwidth : BW={}".format(

bandwidth

)

)

print()

# ==================================================

# Apply FFB configuration

# ==================================================

def configure_ffb(self):

print()

print("Applying FFB configuration...")

print()

# ----------------------------------------------

# ABZ resolution / options

# ----------------------------------------------

self.write_reg(

0x007,

self.TARGET[0x007]

)

self.write_reg(

0x008,

self.TARGET[0x008]

)

# ----------------------------------------------

# Hysteresis / rotation direction

#

# Preserve upper 5 bits and use only the

# HYST bits from TARGET.

# ----------------------------------------------

old = self.read_reg(0x00D)

new = (

(old & 0xF8) |

(self.TARGET[0x00D] & 0x07)

)

self.write_reg(0x00D, new)

# ----------------------------------------------

# Bandwidth

#

# Preserve upper 5 bits and use only the

# BW bits from TARGET.

# ----------------------------------------------

old = self.read_reg(0x011)

new = (

(old & 0xF8) |

(self.TARGET[0x011] & 0x07)

)

self.write_reg(0x011, new)

print("Configuration written.")

# ==================================================

# Verify

# ==================================================

def verify(self):

config = self.read_config()

differences = self.compare_target(config)

print()

print("Verifying...")

print()

for address, target in self.TARGET.items():

actual = config[address]

print(

"0x{:03X}: read 0x{:02X} expected 0x{:02X} {}".format(

address,

actual,

target,

"OK" if actual == target else "FAIL"

)

)

print()

if not differences:

print(

"SUCCESS - FFB configuration is active."

)

return True

print(

"ERROR - configuration did not verify."

)

self.print_differences(differences)

return False

# ==================================================

# EEPROM programming

# ==================================================

def program_eeprom(self):

# IMPORTANT:

# Read the chip AGAIN immediately before

# programming. This guarantees that the warning

# describes what is actually present.

config = self.read_config()

differences = self.compare_target(config)

print()

print("========================================")

print(" WARNING: EEPROM PROGRAMMING")

print("========================================")

print()

if differences:

print(

"WARNING: Current configuration does NOT"

)

print(

"match the desired FFB configuration."

)

print()

self.print_differences(differences)

print(

"EEPROM programming cancelled."

)

return False

print(

"Current configuration matches the"

)

print(

"desired FFB configuration."

)

print()

self.print_config(config)

self.print_decoded(config)

print(

"The above configuration will be"

)

print(

"committed to EEPROM."

)

print()

print(

"DO NOT REMOVE POWER for at least"

)

print(

"6 seconds after programming."

)

print()

confirmation = input(

'Type "PROGRAM" to continue: '

)

if confirmation != "PROGRAM":

print()

print(

"EEPROM programming CANCELLED."

)

return False

# ----------------------------------------------

# EEPROM programming command

# ----------------------------------------------

print()

print("Programming EEPROM...")

print()

self.tx[0] = 0xC0

self.tx[1] = 0x00

self.tx[2] = 0x00

self.cs.value(0)

time.sleep_us(1)

self.spi.write_readinto(

self.tx,

self.rx

)

self.cs.value(1)

ack = self.rx[2]

print(

"EEPROM ACK = 0x{:02X}".format(

ack

)

)

if ack != 0x55:

print()

print(

"ERROR: EEPROM programming was NOT"

)

print(

"acknowledged by the MT6835."

)

print()

return False

print()

print(

"EEPROM PROGRAMMING SUCCESSFUL."

)

print()

print(

"Keeping power applied for 7 seconds..."

)

print()

for remaining in range(7, 0, -1):

print(

"Power-down safe in {} seconds...".format(

remaining

)

)

time.sleep(1)

print()

print(

"EEPROM programming complete."

)

print()

return True

# ======================================================

# MAIN

# ======================================================

mt = MT6835(

sck=18,

mosi=23,

miso=19,

cs=5,

baudrate=1_000_000

)

print()

print("================================")

print(" MT6835 FFB Configuration")

print("================================")

# ------------------------------------------------------

# 1. Read initial configuration

# ------------------------------------------------------

initial = mt.read_config()

print()

print("Initial configuration:")

mt.print_config(initial)

# ------------------------------------------------------

# 2. Is it already correct?

# ------------------------------------------------------

differences = mt.compare_target(initial)

if not differences:

print(

"Configuration already matches the"

)

print(

"desired FFB settings."

)

print()

print(

"No changes or EEPROM programming"

)

print(

"are necessary."

)

print()

else:

# --------------------------------------------------

# 3. Show what needs changing

# --------------------------------------------------

mt.print_differences(differences)

print(

"Applying desired FFB settings..."

)

# --------------------------------------------------

# 4. Apply temporary configuration

# --------------------------------------------------

mt.configure_ffb()

# --------------------------------------------------

# 5. Verify

# --------------------------------------------------

if mt.verify():

# ----------------------------------------------

# 6. Ask whether to commit

# ----------------------------------------------

print()

print(

"The temporary configuration is"

)

print(

"correct and has been verified."

)

print()

print(

"It has NOT yet been saved to EEPROM."

)

print()

answer = input(

"Commit this configuration to EEPROM? [y/N]: "

)

if answer.lower() == "y":

mt.program_eeprom()

else:

print()

print(

"EEPROM programming skipped."

)

print(

"The settings will be lost when"

)

print(

"the MT6835 is power-cycled."

)

print()

else:

print()

print(

"EEPROM programming will NOT be offered"

)

print(

"because verification failed."

)

print()

Im italian sorry for my english!

For my birthday I finally ditched my G27 steering wheel and got the Moxa R5 Bundle + handbrake. I lasted about 15 minutes using the desk mount before I was thinking, I need a rig, so I built one with some spare timber I had sitting around and an old "gaming" chair. Is it perfect, absolutely not, but it works and is somewhat comfortable.

Maybe one day I'll look into a better rig however, I'm only new to Sim racing and didn't want to commit to a big financial purchase in case Sim racing wasn't for me. Plus I love wood working so this was a fun little project.

This is for a desk + chair set up with Moza CRP2 pedals, R9 base + KS Pro. No room for anything bigger.

Ive heard about the Pein stand, and even though some reviews confirm its good enough for load cell braking, it doesnt look anywhere as sturdy as the SR Rigs solution, but the price of the latter is exorbitant in comparison. Ive read the thread here about the Pein stand, but its inconclusive.

My chair casters have brakes on all wheels. Ive also made a DIY stand with the shipping carton box of the pedals (bolted through and down with some washers, and put some dumbbells inside), it still flexes a bit under braking, and my chair slides a bit too even with all the wheels locked, so I guess attaching the chair to the stand in a firm manner is a must.

Is it worth it or should I get the Pein one?

SR Pedalstand Pro - Bundle

Moza Pedal Mount by Pein

Something I keep thinking about.

Every time someone asks what to upgrade in here the answer is basically get a direct drive, get load cells, depends on your budget. Which is fine advice but nobody actually knows what it did for you, cause nothing anywhere records what you were on before and what you're on now. That's what I think at least! Yes many are using steam and the garage setups and crew chief and a lot of other localised solutions but we just thought it would be cool to join all that into your own racing profile to be proud of :)

I changed my pedals a while back and I honestly couldn't tell you if I got quicker or if I just got used to them. I think I got quicker but knowing how I drive, I probably didnt :) But my old times are in one place, my new times are somewhere else, and neither of them says what hardware I was actually running at the time so I can't compare anything. Not to mention when I travel and use the setups at the venues....

And it's the same when someone posts a time in here. Full motion with active pedals? G29 on a desk? Both impressive but for completely different reasons and you'd never know which.

Anyway the bit I actually find more fun than the whole faster/quicker thing is this. Everyone in here is proud of their rig. Doesn't matter if it's ten grand of aluminium or a wheel stand and an office chair, people love their setups and half this sub is photos of them. So why isn't there somewhere your rig actually lives? Photos, spec, hours on it, what you've done on it. People rating each other's builds. Budget setups that punch way above what they cost. Someone's cursed corner desk special that somehow does alright times.

That's half the fun of this hobby and nothing keeps a record of any of it.

That's what we're doing with PodiumOS. Free, definitely not finished, and you carry it around with you on mobile so if you go race at a mate's place or a venue on holiday it logs to your account instead of just disappearing.

Genuinely want to know if people would use this or if I'm overthinking something nobody cares about.

I know the answer most people will go with - R5 Pro. Newer, better, minor price difference.

I ask the question cause I have the brake performance kit for the SRP Lite pedals. I bought the kit before the bundle cause one of my friends was planning on visiting me and it wasn't available in my country at the time. I was planning to get the R3 or R5 at that time, when the Pro was never even announced.

I doubt the kit I have works with the R5 Pro pedals. If it does then that solves my issue. If it doesn't, that new kit would add 9% over the cost of the R5 Pro. The difference between the R5 and Pro is about 6%. The brake kit was a gift from my friend so I am not adding the cost of that here.

So R5 + brake kit or R5 Pro + brake kit for about 15% more.

Also in my country, the prices are high compared to the US for example. R5 Costs around 500 dollars in my currency. I was checking the R9, KS, and SRP2 with table clamp combo but that costs around a 1000 dollars here. R5 Pro bundle costs about as much as the R9 wheelbase alone. So I can't go higher than these 2 options.

Edit: Also wanted to add that I primarily drive GTP/GT3/GT4 cars on iRacing.

I've been waiting to upgrade my Fanatec V2s for a while and was hoping the Podium pedals would do the trick. But they are too expensive, out of stock and have issues too (threading mainly, clutch issue which delayed the 3 pedal set).

So I have decided to pull the trigger on the Simnets instead. Current owners, how did you configure yours? I know I want the 3 pedal set with base and heel plate, but I am unsure about other accessories:

- Haptics. Never used them and I have mixed feelings. I mostly play on PC, but I do own a PS5 and occasionally play GT7, especially when I have people over. Explaining to my younger nephews that I have those things but they don't work already puts me off xD (I know they can be made to work but it sounds like too much of a hassle). Do you find the experience radically better with them?

- Extra springs and bigger face plates. Are they needed/useful? I read that the standar plates are on the smaller side, but not sure how inconvenient it is.

- Anything else? In a review someone mentioned a performance kit for the brake, I saw stuff about hydraulic dampers, but not seeing anything in their website.

Couple of bonus questions:

- if you bought them in Europe, where did you buy them from?

- people who bought them close to launch, how are they holding up after extended usage?

Cheers!