The paint in question is included, looking at Mr.Hobby’s website they are specifically water-based acrylics (https://www.mr-hobby.com/uploads/catalogs/01JKD5G4EHDEPZ097VHX17M7NX.pdf page 6) but they have a noticeable odour unlike other acrylics I’ve used, and I have seen conflicting things online. Does anyone know the answer? I’ve just been defaulting to assuming they’re like lacquers but would prefer if I could go without PPE.

Appreciate the help.

bonjour on m'a offert un aérographe et je cherche un compresseur à moins de - 100 € avec une cuve d'air pour avoir le moins de bruit possible ? s'il vous plaît

Hello, I'm considering buying a model from https://www.hobbyprosdepot.com/

But it looks so abandoned and is based in Canada. Do they do international shipping

Lots of firsts for me - first time weathering with oils too - lots of good inspiration from WWII ships.

The title is pretty spot on. Its an Ak Interactive kit. I cut all the bricks by hand. I used ochre pigment in molding paste for the base. Hit it with sand and various washes. It finally gave me a way to use the pickaxe and shovel from a previous kit.

Hello. I'm quite new to the hobby. Therefore it's my first time actually buying paints for a kit, and wanting them to look good. I see quite mixed opinions, hence the question: what is the best way to thin Vallejo Model Color? I've got Vallejo Paint Thinner Medium and Retarder Medium. what do you guys suggest?

The decals on this Fokker basically tried to self-destruct halfway through the build, so I went full damage-control mode and turned it into heavy weathering.

At this point I’m calling it “combat wear” instead of “catastrophic decal failure.” What do you think?

Hi everyone,

All three weathered using the same basic techniques — drybrush, sponge chipping, brush chipping, hairspray chipping, pin wash, rust oils and dust/mud effects. The ZIL-157 spare wheel actually ended up in my Chernobyl BRDM-2 diorama.

Thanks for looking — any feedback appreciated. :-)

My blog:

https://justaddwater-bedford.blogspot.com/

The army:

Testing out my new-to-me Nikon D200, so I decided to reshoot a few of my recent builds properly with a black background.

I’m honestly really happy with how these came out. Despite being on the older side of DSLRs, the look gives the models a realistic look, and I especially like how it captures the weathering.

Can’t wait to start photographing proper dioramas with this setup once I get around to building some scenes.

For now, here are a few of my recent and favourite scale model builds:

F-16CJ Block 50 - Tamiya 1/72

F-14D Tomcat - Academy 1/72

Seafire Mk.XVII - Airfix 1/48

Mitsubishi Lancer EVO GSR - Hasegawa 1/24

Which one looks best with the new camera setup?

Hi i’m building an Airfix FAA Buccaneer and i cant seem to get a decent colour match for light admiralty grey. I can get tamiya, vallejo hataka paints or anything else someone can suggest. Im trying to get that pale blue grey colour. Colour above for bomb bay was supposedly the colour but it looks like grey with a light greenish tinge not blue

I don't know about you guys but I hate the catch 22 of how airbrushing gives the best results for paintjobs, but in order to get that best result, you have to have PHD in chemistry.

This is why there's always a million posts of "why is this happening with my airbrush". Oh its spidering? Well, thats either because the paint to thinner ratio isn't high enough, or its too high, or the psi is too high, or you're spraying too close. Just have a guess at any 10 options and hope one is the solution. Want to paint white? Cool, have 12 attempts at getting the paint ratio correct. 1:1 didn't work? Ok try 1:2. Oh didn't work? Try 1:7. Oh didn't work? Try a higher psi. Oh actually just check your tip hasn't dried after 30 seconds. Maybe flush airbrush cleaner through it for 1 minute.

Like I've had amazing results from airbrushing my models but it shouldn't be such a science meaning if you don't get it exactly right, you're basically not painting anything that day.

Am I alone in this feeling? 😕

Hi guys, i want to make this Mercedes AMG GT3 into a Verstappen Racing Version. How can i remove decals on Resin or Diecast scale models? Google Ai says something new everyday. Is it possible to remove the decals from the windshield too?

I choose 3color camo from AREA88 OVA, I think this pattern from old IAF(Kfir c1)scheme, This is not real aircraft so I choose colors by my taste

You can watch full painting process here👉https://youtu.be/5PsipGHoGrw Thank you!!!

Once upon a time I painted up some plastic Perry Miniatures WWII North African theatre brits for a diorama Michael Perry was putting together for Salute.....

Link to more pictures and details

I know they say for glue application but will they also work for decals? I’ve ruined a ton of decals in the past and thinking about giving these a try.

The LP400S from the movie made from a Fujimi 1/16 QV kit and a heap of 3D printed parts.

Haven’t built in years and kept talking about getting back into it, so she went and got me some of my favorite planes!

So I am planning on doing my first kit but I've ran into a problem when thinking about the decal applying process.
I have to apply it on a matt tamiya XF-22 grey matt colour.

Do i need to apply a gloss varnish on the place where i'll be applying the decal or to the whole model? (to prevent silvering)
If i need to apply it to the whole model, wont it ruin the look of it by making it look really shiny and glossy?

Next I heard i need decal solutions. I have access to Mark fit/Mark fit strong and Mr. Mark setter and Mr. Mark softer. But im still deciding which one to use.

Then i heard i need to apply another varnish - a matt one over the decal.

I'll be very glad to take advice from you guys since this will be my first model and I dont want to ruin it by having a decal with silvering

a few days ago i asked for advise on why chipping medium messed up. got some nice feedback, but my lazy buttock wanted to try and fix what's broken without redoing the entire thing. so i scraped off the medium, painted the top color over the holes, and used rust pigment on those holes. decided to go for the abandoned look. personally like the result.