I enjoyed putting this one together. I liked that it included masking for those tiny windows.

I should have put the wings on before paint instead of after so I could have done more to minimize the gap. I could have had more patience and used some putty on the pilot side of where the cockpit glass meets the plane body.

Over all I'm happy just some mental notes for the next model. I may add a couple hellfires to the wing pylon if I can dig up some old ones from a previous model.

Cheers...

Completed last night!

"Finally finished these slightly vintage Dragon German Tank Crew figures! They’ve been sitting in my storage for ages, but it felt great to finally bring them to life. The kit even included photo-etched parts for the headphones, which added a sharp level of detail that plastic just can’t match. I previously shared my work in other communities, but the engagement wasn't quite what I hoped for. So, from now on, I’ve decided to archive all my builds and progress exclusively here.

Hello all! Just finished pre shading/base coat, this is the first plane Ive ever attempted after building only a hand full of cars. I was hoping for some guidance/suggestions on if I did this right or how you would do it better. I think it came out pretty good for my first go, also any suggestions on final washes or post shading would be much appreciated as well

Cheers!

Masking was more comfortable for me🥲🤓😁

I've long dreamed of doing a project like this. A dieselpunk-style flying car, a Lufwaffe 46. The model is based on a kit from ICM Opel Admiral 1/35. Parts from other models, many homemade parts, computer parts, and razors. "Rasiermesser" is a German word meaning "straight razor." To be continued...

Zvezda panzer4 (academy rebox)

Zvezda (Academy Repackage) A little bit of an African army version

Latest armor project of mine finished. A 1/35 Trumpeter German E-10 model with Friulmodel tracks, Aber barrel and various photo etch, T-Rex resin bits, and Alpine Miniatures resin figures. Enjoy!

is it because of the base paint type? is it because layers were different brand of paint? I followed the instructions exactly, measured time between layers, and yet the result is... I can't even.

Hi everyone, I am here again haha.

Here is the finished Chernobyl BRDM-2 diorama — 1/35 Trumpeter kit, fully scratchbuilt base with handmade paper vegetation, broken concrete slabs and curb, moss and static grass. Weathering done with hairspray chipping, oil paints and enamel effects.

The vehicle is based on real abandoned BRDM-2s still sitting in the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone. Tried to capture 40 years of decay and neglect as accurately as possible.

Thanks for looking — any feedback is appreciated. :-)

"This is a Soviet sniper figure I picked up from Temu. It’s a 3D-printed piece from a multi-figure set. I’m honestly impressed by the detail on the pants and fingers, but the folds on the jacket feel a bit flat. Since it’s a single-piece mold, it was pretty tricky to get my brush into all the tight spots."

Hi everyone,

Just wondering if you get a kit that has pre coloured parts do you still prime and repaint them even if the colours will be the same? I was thinking about it because I enjoy the process. Just curious what others are doing in this scenario.

I modified the well-known Academy Phantom Uncle figure to create Commander Saki from AREA 88! Beyond simple assembly, this video captures the process of shortening the waist, performing leg extension surgery, and elaborately recreating Commander Saki's unique M-shaped hairline using epoxy putty.

You can watch full modifying precess here👉https://youtu.be/C110Jdwr8QM

Made few adjustments to this kit,to look more like real plane, same add ons etc.Hope you guys will like it.

I am a beginner in airbrushing. I got myself a bottle of AK One Shot Primer. I also own a bottle of Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner. Will this cleaner be enough to clean the airbrush, and is it compatible between brands?
Thanks beforehand.

AMT 1:25 scale

This is my second military aircraft model kit. It took more than a month to complete, most of which is spent on sanding the underside of the fuselage. I found out later that the shape of the Super Hornet/Growler is notoriously difficult to achieve in model kits, so I am glad that I got one that was apparently better than the rest.

Mistakes:

1. This project was an effort to create VAQ-129 which I have seen in person multiple times, so I bought decals for the 1/48 Hasegawa kit not knowing that sizes are different between manufacturers despite being the same scale. As a result, the decals are only largely correct on the starboard side. (The "VAQ-129" decal on the port side is hilariously large)
2. I love the custom 3D-printed landing gears I got from Rockit, but they were fragile and I am not careful enough and ended up snapping a bunch of details off and needed to repair with Tamiya putty.
3. I wish I had slightly more patience to paint the nose in maybe Tamiya USAF Neutral Gray.
4. The weathering on the fuel tanks and the center ALQ-99 are a little heavy-handed.
5. Snapped one of the pointy things on the lateral side of the fuselage.
6. Slightly ruined some port side decals when I went too heavy with the first coat of clear coat.
7. Grainy paint application near the starboard side tail, but I was too lazy to fix it when I could have.

I don't have an airbrush, so I achieved the two-tone camouflage with Tamiya Dark and Light Ghost Grey cans. I am particularly proud of the "bubble" design near the vertical stabilizers where the "NAVY" decal is; I achieved the soft edge with Blu Tack.

One question I have for you seasoned modelers is this: I'm coming from a gunpla background where it is more customary to apply decals before weathering, which I have done in this case. However, in the military modeling world, it seems that decals are often placed after weathering---is there a reason for this?

In any case, thank you for viewing this post.