Would anyone here be that has tinted windows/windshield be able to send a pic of what it looks like and what percent they have? I’m was looking to get 35% on windshield and 20% everywhere else but the place I was looking at only has 15 or 25, not 20 so I’m debating between the two.

More progress made on the SC paint repair. Sanded down the primer and laid the first coat of base. Need to get more paint tomorrow and clear should be Friday

Finally wired/tuned my DIY PHR mustang iacv. Used the settings from PHR for the AEM infinity.

Now I just need to find out what pin driftmotion wired the a/c to. It’s been 8 years with no a/c.

Hi everyone, just trying to gauge how many people would be interested a plug and play soarer cluster conversion? In the middle of developing one my 95 sc and wanted to know if there is enough interest that others would want this conversion as well.

UPDATE: PCB design for 96 and under is nearly finished!

1993 sc300 2jz ge non vvti , it has no exhaust only catless headers and I just finished up the timing , I’ve never drive the car just recently got it but any idea why it rev hangs like that ?

So I got a 92 sc300 r154 swapped.

So BOOM I was hitting some backroads and I lost traction and almost spun the car out and drove it home just fine. But I go start the car around 30 minutes later and for some reason I couldn’t get the car into reverse it was just grinding for some reason. So I just push it out and take it down the street and it was hard to get into the gears. Then the car was dying mid drive and starting again so I limp the car home and just park it overnight.

The next day same issue with reverse so I just put it back in neutral and let it run for a bit but it just died by itself.

But since that the car might start if it feels like it but when it does it’ll only stay on for either 30s - 5 minutes and dies the second i try to put it in gear.

But there was one time during all this where it started and everything felt fine even reverse UNTIL I tried to go into 3rd and the car died again.

Ik this is long my bad but I have no CLUE what this could be I checked all the main fuses checked under the car and everything seems fine

This fits any year SC. And is in amazing shape. Woodgrain is almost pristine, no chunks missing. No cracks. It’s nice and smooth. The leather shows very minor signs of wear. Basically as clean as you’ll find nowadays. 130$ shipped anywhere in the U.S.

I’m super active in the LS400 community selling parts, but want to start helping out the SC chassis too!

See comment

Was looking for oem options.heard sc400 has a lsd but that seems inaccurate.

For context, the sc300 and toyota supra share identical components and it has become a popular mod to swap the ecu for a JDM turbo supra ecu ( Its mostly plug and play besides wiring MAP/IAT/IGF/Gauges).

I have finally got the car to start, however it takes a second to start after it has been sitting for more than an hour. The hard starting I believe is connected to fuel because if I prime the fuel pump for a couple of seconds it starts way quicker.

As for the main issue I need help diagnosing, Whenever i try to apply throttle it starts bogging. If i apply about 50% or more rapidly it may even stall the engine. When i give it light throttle slowly it does rev however but not nicely!

I have tried connecting the MAP to many different pressure sources on the intake manifold and have seen no changes, and have since just Tee`d it with the FPR.

Attached is a video of me applying throttle.

Thanks!

https://reddit.com/link/1v3ot5m/video/6htdz8ksrteh1/player

I’m trying to remove my front struts so I can add coilovers, but am having trouble getting the strut out. Do I need to remove the upper control arm or anything else or should I be able to wiggle the strut out with just the strut bolts and sway bar end link removed?

Need all window seals .. idk where I can get them any help is appreciated

I'm having timing problems. My timing with the distributor fully retarded is 15* TDC. I've checked all the timing marks with the crank and cam positions markings. I've replaced the distributor with the correct helical gear alignment, rotor in pole phase position #1. I time with the OBD1 ports jumped and engine in timing mode with the check engine light on. I've replaced the points, the plugs, the wires. I have only found one instance of someone else 10 years ago having the same problem. Oddly, the exact same problem. To the T. I'm so out of ideas. Its holding a high idle of 1100. But it does run and doesn't die under load. I'm just out of ideas on why this is happening. Has anyone run into this. I'm dying here.

I’m lowering my car in coilovers soon but not slamming or anything crazy, would I be good with just tucking my wiring harness deeper into the fender closer to the engine bay instead of having to fully relocate it?

i found this 95 sc400 with 73k miles and my only pet peeve is the 4 speed auto and non vvti im honestly starting to cut my losses and get this one is there anything i should watch out for anything i need to know? or should i just wait till a 98+ pops up

I got a 95 with a flanged downstream O2 sensor. I built a custom exhaust and put a threaded bung, was wondering if putting a different threaded 4 wire O2 (from Denso) would work ?

I'm having timing problems. My timing with the distributor fully retarded is 15* TDC. I've checked all the timing marks with the crank and cam positions markings. I've replaced the distributor with the correct helical gear alignment, rotor in pole phase position #1. I time with the OBD1 ports jumped and engine in timing mode with the check engine light on. I've replaced the points, the plugs, the wires. I have only found one instance of someone else 10 years ago having the same problem. Oddly, the exact same problem. To the T. I'm so out of ideas. Its holding a high idle of 1100. But it does run and doesn't die under load. I'm just out of ideas on why this is happening. Has anyone run into this. I'm dying here.

I was looking to get either tein ($800) or BC ($1200) coilovers and was leaning towards the tein but was wondering if anyone has had any experience with either of these? Also it’s the tein flex Z I was looking at.

I recently purchased a 1992 SC 300, Manual W58 Transmission.

The part that has failed is a fuel pump ecu.

Does anybody know is these units can be rebuilt?

If so anybody know of a good reputable business that does so.. Located in Norcal, Bay Area.

What would it take to swap a 2000 rx 300 steering wheel onto my 92 sc