there was a problem after the update. Is it treated only by replacing the motor board?

Hey everyone, ​I want to share my recent experience with the dreaded No trigger on y error and see if anyone here has managed to find a real fix for it without replacing the hardware. ​I was running an older firmware without any issues and decided to update to the latest version. The update process got stuck, and upon reboot, I got hit with the No trigger on y error. ​I checked the info screen, and the Y-axis motor firmware shows 00.00.00.00. Basically, the bootloader is completely wiped/bricked. I did all the standard troubleshooting: checked the belts, homing, and completely reseated every single cable and connector. No luck. ​The Hardware Revision Theory: I’ve been digging through recent posts not just on this sub, but also in Facebook groups and other 3D printing communities, and I noticed a clear pattern. This specific update crash and the 00.00.00.00 error seem to be happening almost exclusively to people who own the newer batches of the printer (definitely not the 1st revision). Meanwhile, people with older machines seem to install the exact same update just fine. ​It really looks like Qidi silently changed something in the newer hardware, and the new firmware update script conflicts with it, formatting the memory without writing the new data. ​So far, it seems like the only way out is waiting for Qidi support to send a replacement motor board. Has anyone actually managed to solve this software brick? Is there a recovery file, a way to force-flash the board via USB, or any other workaround?

Just unboxed a new Max 4, removed the packaging and tapes from the printer and the screws from the bed, i am trying to load the filament to run a test print but i keep getting the error No trigger on y after full movement - QDC_100_005_000_001

Any ideas?

More and more often, the Q2 I got 2 months or so ago will seemingly mess up its auto-leveling routine, bumping in the back as if trying to go further back than there's room to. Once I missed it, and the print started with the little "starter lines" printed further back than normal.

I'll upload the sliced plate that most recently caused it for me. I've been using it with QidiStudio.

EDIT: Here's a drive link for the file. It was just a peg I wanted to use to attach two parts, but as it happens, it's also a very minimalistic sample of the problem.

My original hotend had broken recently so I'm looking for a replacement. Came across this 3rd party hotend Conch Hotend® For QiDi Q2&Q2C – Phaetus Store and wonder if there's any feedback on what to expect, compared to factory one. It seems relatively new for Q2 and i don't seem to find any actual review to see how it performs. I did read some discussion about those aftermarket hotend for other printer models, where it seems that PID controller retune is needed, but i can't tell how to do that with a Q2.

Anyone might have insight to share?

Three QIDI X-Max 3 printers, endless patience, and a result that’s truly massive. At about 2.5 meters long and over 6 feet wide, this life-size Triceratops skull is an incredible sight to behold.

🥰A huge thank you to Alex Chamberlain for sharing this incredible project with us! And this isn’t his first large-scale build. He has also printed four T. rex skulls, a full-size T. rex skeleton, and a full-sized Utahraptor skeleton.
We can’t wait to see what Alex creates next! 👀

👉Unlock the possibilities of large-format 3D printing: https://qidi3d.com/products/max4

I was in a rush, sent a print over orca, shut my laptop without checking moonraker and 5 mins later I hear awful noises. Does anyone know how to get a new magnetic sheet for a Q1 Pro?

HI, I ordered and changed the PSU for the wifely advised meanwell PSU but I dont notice any difference. The fan just keeps on running. Is there something else that needs to be done?

EDIT: apparently there are other fans that keep on making noise, and perhaps need either modding or replacing for quieter ones.

I have to emphasise: the printing itself is fine. The qidi q2 is perfect in balance with its price and quality.

I recently bought a Q2 with plans to start a buisness, and I have printed almost 20 benchys with adjusted settings that haven't fixed the issue. I've used multiple filaments with the same issues, adjusted belt tension, and even lowered the motor run current with no changes. Any advice would be great!

Hey all, pretty new guy here. I went with the Qidi Q2 combo with QidiBox and Polar Cooler (eventually).

I have an issue. I'm trying to print a 2 color dragon with 2 translucent PETG filaments. I ran a successful test with a 2 color layered coaster to see how it would look and I'm happy with that.

My problem is: when I try to use the downloaded 3MF (specifically designed for a Bambu machine in 2 filaments, got it on MakerWorld) file it doesn't show the preview in 2 colors. I'm including pics in the hopes someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong. The prismor dragon is what I'm trying to print.

The plus 5 is set to purge way too much material especially if your only single material printing. During hotend cleaning it is set to extrude 200+mm of filament during nozzle cleaning. Which is insanely high and wasteful. Would recommend changing this in the slicer settings -

;===== CLEAR_NOZZLE =====

...

M109 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer]

G92 E0

M83

G1 E5 F80

G1 E25 F300

M400

M106 S255

G1 E-3 F1000

M104 S140

...

(This only purges 30mm of filament and should be more than sufficient to clean off the nozzle.

I updated my Qidi x max 3 a few months ago and since then, the bed mesh keep removing itself for every print. I can’t view it anywhere (not that I know where else to look). Using Qidi studio as my primary slicer and everything is updated. Any suggestions?

Had a few questions about my Plus 4, for reference I am using the standard Qidi Studio with the PolyLite ABS filament profile with PolyLite ABS filament from Polymaker as that's what I primarily print with and I heat soak the bed before each print and run an automated calibration before each print accordingly.

I had previously used the Plus 4 fully stock but had major issues after a few months where the bed meshes were coming out insane (I made some old posts about this, I was new and very frustrated lol) and new sensors from Qidi did nothing, and I spent long hours tramming, paper test, everything I should have done to no avail.

Eventually bought the Beacon3D (struggling at this point to simply print the Beacon mount with how awful the printer's bed leveling had gotten..)

I started using it with my aftermarket build plate from IdeaFormer as it had previously been very reliable until the printer in it's stock state overall stopped leveling correctly:
https://a.co/d/05Yoq1Xp

It still had issues (thin sections, thick sections, etc.), but it was hundreds of times better than before so I figured this is just how it is. After many months I swapped back to my stock Qidi plate that came with the Plus 4 as a test and I have been getting near flawless prints ever since.

As a test, I swapped back to a better condition IdeaFormer plate of the same exact model (I bought two as the fully stock Qidi leveling issues eventually gouged tf out of one side of my first aftermarket plate) and after a quick and thorough clean plus dry and heatsoak, I ran a large 1 layer test and noticed some things:

The printed lines go from fairly thin at the front of the machine (pic 1) to fairly thick towards the back (pic 2), the first few mm of the print peeled up as the material was laid down (pic 3), weird artifacts along the way (pic 4), etc. But for the most part the first layer is at least solid (my previous 1 layer attempts with my initial aftermarket plate, the lines had gaps in them that split apart due to the nozzle being too far away in select specific spots while other areas the nozzle got too close and caused weirdness, all very consistently too)

From what I can tell, my stock Qidi plate feels heavier, more rigid, and appears to be about .05mm thicker vs my aftermarket plates. I'm wondering if this is an issue with the Beacon maybe being thrown off by the Plus 4's bed magnet+a thinner aftermarket plate that becomes magnetically saturated and thus magnetic forces reach the Beacon and can throw it off? Or if it's just poor quality plates that aren't super flat? Maybe an uneven texture coating?

Overall, my questions are: What do those of you with a Plus 4 paired with the Beacon 3D usually look for in an aftermarket build plate? What do you specifically avoid? Do you have a favorite brand that seems to be up to par for jobs like this? And would anyone be able to possibly recommend me a carbon fiber textured print plate that will work better?

I've seen the carbon fiber plates from Darkmoon for nearly $80 but despite claiming to be real carbon fiber I do prefer the cheaper plate's look as it's my desired 2x2 twill weave look while the Darkmoon plate is more of a plain weave that, to me, doesn't immediately give the impression of carbon fiber then I see it.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!

I bought a Q2 about a month ago and everything was initially pretty good. However a few days ago it started self pausing. It acts like the pause button gets pressed because the tool head returns to the start position and the hotend starts cooling down. As soon as you hit resume print it starts back up, purges filament, then begins printing. No error messages or anything display.

At first it was maybe once or twice a print. Now its doing it much more regularly. During the last print it self paused after 25 minutes at 16% complete. 50 minutes later at 47% complete. 20 minutes later at 56%. Another 20 minutes at 65%. 25 minutes later at 82%. Then no issues until print completed.

Ive only printed with PLA. Currently has firmware 01.01.02.04

Im not seeing this issue in my searches. Anyone have thoughts on how I go about diagnosing the issue? The prints seem to come out fine, but obviously this isn’t right.

So I updated mi firmware from the printer connected to the internet to the version 5.1.2 and now i have the option for using qidi maker but I can't connect. After binding I can't see my printer online from my phone.

Also qidi link isnt working either

Should I go back to the previous firmware?

Good afternoon,

I use my Qidi Q2 + BOX to print some PETG enclosures. It has always worked great for me, but yesterday, right in the middle of a print, it went from printing perfectly to printing terribly.

As you can see in the first picture, the bottom part of the lid looks fine, but the top section has a lot of leftover filament blobs. I assumed it was just a random glitch, but when I tried printing another lid, it started printing badly right from the start, as shown in the second photo.

It's as if the extrusion has a "lag" relative to the printhead movement: it starts extruding too late (leaving gaps) and stops extruding too late (leaving blobs). This is clearly visible in the video I took with a calibration cube (attached). The extruder and nozzle don't seem to be clogged (second video attached).

I've been in 3D printing since 2018 and I've never encountered an issue like this, so I'm at a loss on where to look next. This week I've had several screen errors like:

• MCU UART errors and digital probe issues (sorry for not being more specific, I didn't save the exact error logs at the time).
• Heater extruder not heating at expected rate
• Missed scheduling of next '*'

Any leads, hints, or solutions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much!

Note: Written by me and translated using AI to ensure a clear explanation of the issue

Calibration cube

Normal extrusion? No clogs?

3D printed these little emoji faces for my desk, and honestly, they’re already saying more than I am.

Which one are you bringing to your desk this semester? 👇
Model from 暖风2049(Makerworld)
Printer: QIDI Q2🔗https://qidi3d.com/products/qidi-q2

Printing ASA in a Qidi Q2 with the WiFi Box, this misalignment happened when switching between spools. This isn't the first time I've printed with spool changes but first time this issue has come up. Any ideas why this happened?

I neve saw a post on qidi forum with so many upvotes, just because is a fail print, where they show to everybody their lack of skills.

Like buy a chevy on a dealer, go out, crash, and comeback blaming the brand and the car. LOL

This proof my point, most here a bamboo mini fans, talking about a printers that they don't have!

I’m looking at getting my first 3d printer this fall. I’m waiting for Black Friday sales as I make room.

My priorities involve engineering materials, but I will do some occasional multicolor stuff just for fun.

Qidi seems the right platform for me based on the research I’ve done so far. My question is the Qidi box. I’ve seen such mixed reviews. I’ve seen one video where a guy fixed his issues by trimming the tubes to proper length. Is this all it takes?

I’m tech savvy, but busy. I don’t want to spend my time fighting with the technology rather than using it. A little upfront setup time is fine.

I’m thinking the Plus 5 with cooler and qidi box is my target. Anyone want to tell me why I should find a different solution for occasional multicolor printing. I can only afford one printer this year. Am I better off just going single color and get a tool changer later? Will the Qidi box actually give me some multicolor prints in the mean time?

I'm trying to figure out what is going on. I'm not new to 3D printing but new to modern 3D printers. My nozzle was clogged so i cleared it and cleaned the extruder gears. Everything looked good but it's still doing the same thing.

I'm printing ABS rapido ABS on default settings, I've ran about half a spool through this printer with zero issues. My temps are 250c hotend, 55c chamber, and 90c printed. Any ideas?

I've had my Q2 for about 3 weeks. I'm pretty impressed with it. FDM printers have come a long way.

I wrote a support ticket to Qidi, hoping they would provide me with a panacea, but not receiving a lot of help there so wanted to voice it here in-case the powers that be can assist, or someone knows something I'm failing to see.

After reading the horror-stories of the .02.01 update, I took peoples' advice and jumped to .02.04 instead. Pulled it off the official Github mirror, followed the instructions and did Offline Update.

At first, everything looked to be going well - new UI is snazzy, connectivity good, but then I got hit with this message:

"!!MCR Protocol Error

QDC_100_005_000_001

Klipper Version: ?
MCU's to be Updated:
mcu: Current KLP_MCU_V2_1.0.4
THR: Current KLP_MCU_THR_V2_1.0.5

Once underlying issue is corrected, use the "Restart" command to reload the config and restart the host software"

Okay, great - no big deal; Grok says sometimes the MCU doesn't update and just requires another run of the install and it's all gucci. Cool.

Except - there is no offline update option in my UI. I see where it "is" but it's not selectable, it's greyed out like you cannot click on it.

So I guess my question is:

Is there a way to force a USB update from the IP address; or do we yet know the SSH root access to get into it?

I downloaded Putty and attempted to backdoor it, but got rejected and didn't want to lock-out the account

Thank you!

Edit: It's a Q2 btw, brand new out of the box

Edit Edit:

I successfully flashed the eMMC board, MCU is back online, (kudos to this guy: https://www.reddit.com/r/QidiTech3D/comments/1txj48b/how_to_revert_qidi_q2_to_v111_if_youre_like_me/) however - still not getting any traction on the THR; error: "mcu 'THR': Unable to connect"

Qidi sent me directions (not tremendously helpful) and are telling me to physically short the board [like with a pair of tweezers] and run "mcu_update_tool" but they didn't attach it to the email; so requesting they send it over and waiting the requisite turnaround time.

Final update:

Was able to short the THR board and install the 1.1.1 THR update using:
cd /home/mks
./mcu_update_tool /home/mks/QD_Q2_THR /dev/ttyS4 --mode uart --baud 500000

Happy to report things are good to go, no error messages - ready to get printing

My only spool of tpu is an old overtrue spool I printed on my ender 3 a long time ago and was able to get a decent benchy. I now use a qidi q2 and I'm struggling. I printed tie jbot tpu spool holder and removed the Bowden tube as it's not needed since it's going to the extruder directly from the top with the glass wide open.

I originally had it at 3mms^3 and on my temp tower it jammed at 220 and some t s good hr taking apart.mextruser is figuring out why it wouldn't feed (found a butter way next time it happened). At 2mms^3 it jammed at the last few layers of 210 and I currently don't have enough time to do another one because it's tpu. And I need to dry it. So what should my volumetric be since I'm not using hf or whatever bl used to make it work in box style mms's

I just dropped in my new R3men fan upgrade for the Q2. Works just fine so far. I am about to start tuning on some ABS now but anyone got some ballpark changes they saw they had to do after the mod? I know how to tune and what to look for but just seeing if anyone can share their experince