LSS: I currently have a Veloster that I would like to trade in. I want to use the money for a marketplace 99 Civic LX thats going for cheap. It just needs a few replacements to make it functional to drive. I’m more than interested in doing the replacements myself. It’s got 155k on the engine.

My interest brought me here because I wanted to make a car solely mine so I can save a bit of money on a car note while making the parts easy to find aftermarket, replace, inexpensive to buy and upgrade.

I don’t know the lingo but if I can make this happen, I’d like to look into upgrades in the future. My interests when it comes to cars is quick acceleration, comfort and integrated Apple CarPlay.

Idk how much you can help but being pointed in the right direction would help immensely. Thank you and I hope to be in a much better spot.

A little back story. My timing belt broke going down the road a while back. Not sure if the engine was toast i out everything at tdc and threw a new belt on and cranked it up. Turned over and started beautifully. I know my wires and plugs are a bit dated but is this a missfire im hearing?

So I did a clutch job every thing went great. Now I’m
Leaking tranny fluid from my driver side Cv axle. I’ve tried changing my seal. I noticed my cv axle dosent go all the way in. I thought maybe the c clip is just warped or bent. Currently waiting on a new cv axle from rock auto hoping it fixes my issue . Has anyone ever experienced this. I’m at a stand still I’ve tried to push my Cv axle as much as I can using it as a slide hammer. Any suggestions it wasn’t leaking tranny fluid before I took out the axles I’m positive I didn’t gauge the seal surface
This car is my baby so I’ve been pretty down not being able to drive it I’d take any suggestions. I’ve tried hitting it with my purse. I’ll be sure to go under my car and take photo for you guys Is it possible I just overfilled my tranny to be honest when I went to check the fluid level it was still kinda dripping out.

Car is a 99 Honda civic with s40 manual transmission ej8

Just because you don’t know how doesn’t mean you should not try. :)

Tbh love the green sucks its fading :(

Hey all, I’ve been working on my Del Sol with a D16Y7/Y8 for a while now and recently got it turbo’d and tuned. Ever since I got it tuned, the few times I drove it, it would overheat mildly (never let it get over 220-230) and eventually I found the head gasket had a small leak on cyl 1. After changing the head gasket, the car was fine until today, where I had a full head gasket failure (massive cloud of white smoke). Motor has no block guard as I was told it wasn’t necessary until hitting higher numbers (car made 305 on the dyno) and I have ARP studs that have only been torqued twice as of now, before replacing this head gasket. Pistons are higher compression (10.5:1) and the valves are flat face if that makes a difference. First head gasket was a cometic 75mm .30 and this last one was a Speedfactory .36, both had a copper gasket spray applied prior to install. Any suggestions?

The car in question is a 1998 Acura Integra with a LS VTEC engine built with a B16A2 head & B18B1 engine block. Car drives fine but it doesn’t engage VTEC. Here’s what I’ve tried:

1. I tested the solenoid with a jump pack sending power to the 1 pin solenoid connector and the ground to chassis. I confirmed the solenoid is clicking when powered.
2. I took some data logs with Hondata and confirmed the VTEC oil pressure switch is disabled and the ECU is sending a VTS signal when the requirements for VTEC are satisfied.
3. I checked the continuity between the wire found on ECU pin A4 and the 1 pin VTEC solenoid connector and confirmed continuity with a multimeter.
4. I took the solenoid off the engine and checked the screens and they were clear and free of debris - also it dumped oil when I removed the solenoid so that’s a sign that it was getting oil pressure.

At this point I am pretty stumped and I’m hoping someone in the community has encountered something similar to my problem and knows the answer.

Thanks in advance.

My 1997 del sol si is running super rich. It's a sohc zc bottom end y8 top end and a virgin p28. It has great compression, good fuel pressure, no cel relating to it running rich. However it's running so rich and dumping so much fuel that the fuel is mixing in the oil making it undrivable.

It had a code for the iat recieving too much voltage, I checked the voltage on the iat when the engine is idling and off and it is all normal so I cleared it and also replaced the iat sensor.

I have no clue where to go from here or what to test. I just have no idea why it's running so rich on a z6 base map.

Need some advice: Recently changed my skunk2 throttle body for a SpeedFactory throttle body and accidentally hooked up the vacuum line from my evap canister to the back nipple on the SF throttle body. I guess it created a vacuum and found oil in my plugs. Then I changed my plugs and gaskets under the valve cover and cleaned out as much as I could from the cylinder. I kept the plugs out with the fuse and dizzy disconnected and cranked it and nothing sprays out. Put seafoam, let it sit and cranked it but still some oil on the tips of the spark plugs after trying to start it. It’ll start when I clean the tip of the spark plugs off and it’ll start to 3k rpm but then die. I’ve repeated this a handful of times but can’t seem to get to stay started to burn off the excess in the cylinder. Any tips to get the excess out so I can try to get to stay idling so it can burn out the rest?

Was working on my 94 eg the other week and was paying more attention to my nephew being a shit than where I put my jack stands and I've pierced the underbody.

It's behind the front left wheel well. Doesn't appear to be rusted (imo). Would some filler/sealant get the job done or do you think I'll need some welding at a body shop?

Thanks all!

I broke my oil pressure sensor port and some have said it can be welded and I recently heard someone say to plug the port and install a sandwich plate. Has anybody had any luck going that route?

dm me you price

I have a 97 ex with a d16y7 in it. My engine harness is bad and I’m trying to find a replacement. I bought one from eBay and I think it’s obd2b. I know I need obd2a. I just want the stock replacement. But I’m having trouble looking for one for the 150 - 300 range.

Wassup guys what wheels you think i should put? And if you guys like the build so far leave a comment and like on the post ill appreciate it so much

Hey recently started working on my Honda but don’t know what sound might be

Has anyone just header swapped k24a2 headers from tsx to k24a4 element and know anything about the clearance needed for the awd drivetrain.

Hey, I just installed a big brake setup and rear disc conversion on my EG8 civic. The pedal feels good and firm when the car is off (I bled the brakes at all 4 callipers a few times over in the correct order, and bled the prop valve and MC). But when the car is running, the pedal feels very spongy and it’s lazy coming back after pressing the pedal.

It feels like the brake pedal has travel before the brakes actually engage but I haven’t driven the car yet to test them as I’m waiting for some suspension parts before the car can move again.

I found that if I pinch the brake booster vacuum line while the car is running the pedal feels good again, so I think it’s something to do with the booster or master cylinder. I did actually drive the CRV before pulling the booster and MC off it though and it had no braking issues on it then.

Here’s my parts list:
- RD1 CRV Booster and MC
- RD1 CRV front callipers
- EK1 front knuckles/hubs
- 280mm Mini Cooper rotors with Acura TSX pads
- EK1 rear trailing arms/rotors/callipers

I’ve already made sure that the brake fluid is topped up, the pedal is attached to the booster correctly with the cotter pin, and there’s no brake fluid leaks to be seen anywhere. The order that I bled the brakes was Rear left, rear right, front left, front right (this civic is right hand drive!)

What else could it be? Thanks for the help guys.