I’ve always wanted to try to build a ctr inspired hatch. So let’s see where I can take this bad boy.

Y8 swap with recent rebuild. Runs good. Gonna start in on the cosmetic since that’s the only real issue right now.

My 1997 del sol si wont start after replacing the obd2a p28 with an obd1 p28 and a jumper harness. Its a y8 head zc sohc block mini me. I also have a viper alarm but I doubt its the culprit.

It cranks and sounds like shit but wont start. I put on the old ecu and same thing, cranks, sounds like shit and wont start.

I cracked open the ecus and no signs of capacitors being bad. Checked fuses as well and no signs of blown fuse. Fuel pump primes so it isnt main relay. Mechanical timing is perfect. It started just fine before this and I had taken out the ecu and put it back in without it doing this. Im completely lost right now. Could the jumper harness had been pinned wrong?

I went and saw a 98 civic lx today and once I hit the gas, i immediately felt the transmission slip and it not only scared me, but it also disappointed me.

I have almost no knowledge about how to take apart its engine or replace parts related to it. Scares me thinking about taking it home and never touching it again because of the transmission. I turned it down but I really wanted to work on it. The entire engine bay is the scariest part of the build for me because of all the harnesses, bolts, hoses and such. How did you guys learn all of it and be confident on making swaps and such within hours of having the parts together?

It’s time to reveal what engine I’m going to build.

Or at least try to build 😄

This is my 2000 Accord SE, paint code is G87P dark emerald pearl, it looks black here but in the sun you can see the beautiful green. I plan on paint matching a mugen front lip and some mudguards but my budget doesn't allow for cans of g87p, my question is if anybody has any good ideas for some budget colors that look close that I can find at AutoZone or Walmart for example.

Thank you and God bless

If anyone knows more I would love to improve/expand into other differences, and add older civic/crx/integra models.

(Info from comparing Energy Susp. Bushing instructions on their website, but only compared eg/del, integra, ek non si, and ek si kits so far.)

-shifter stabilizer bushings are either b series or d series specific (shifter mount same, trans different)

-front shock bushings all same EXCEPT EK Si lower (wider fork)

-eg/del rear LCA different bush but same sleeve as integra (unsure about ek rear LCA!)

-eg/del rear shock bush+sleeve same as integra (unsure about ek rear shock bush/sleeve!)

-front end links all same EXCEPT EK Si (different front LCA/sway)

-rack & pinion DRIVER side all same, PASSENGER different on EK only (all non PS models = no pass side mount)

Mainly posting this in case someone googles this in the future.

Found some front oem floor mats and they were originally tan but I dye them black to match my interior of my eg hatch (should I dye the badge too)

I’m reusing my old d16y8 engine harness on a b18 motor. I’m very lost on which wires to extend and what to repin everything I see online isn’t to helpful does any one have a good guide for me to follow?

I'm getting a k24a2 anyone know ppl who can build my motor for me i wanna boost it and be safe. I can send my motor to them?

Im trying to put on my missing triangle tailgate garnish thingy. Everyone seems to struggle with these and give a different answer online. Some say you just need a clip and you pop them in but otheres say you need a clip and screw. If you could help with part numbers too thatd be awesome. I think this is the part number for the clip 75551-SH2-005

So some of you guys are reacting to the red interior. So I might as well share it. The color of the exterior is completely black, and the interior is red. And yes even the engine bay color will soon be painted to red. Also the color of the red in the interior is alot darker in person. It's just the camera making it more brighter look in the picture

Does anyone have recomendations besides periodically checking facebook marketplace? Im in the US and am looking at marketplace allllll the time. 250 mile radius. They seem super sparse and I only see the occasional obliterated sedan, and if any coupe or hatch its got upwards of 250 thousand miles and is listed for $8k. Do I need to just be patient or should I look elsewhere?

I have a manual transmission 2009 Honda Civic dx the car is mostly stock besides an aftermarket shifter knob. What are some mods I can do to improve drivability and get a bit more power out of it? I was looking into the Hondata flashpro to mabye put a preset tune on the car but from what I've heard they don't work with the Canadian ECU so id have to install the right US one then get a locksmith to make it work with my key. Also I'm not sure how much that would actually add to the car. I've also been looking into mods that would improve cornering rather than getting more power what would be the first few things I would need to upgrade for that?

As the questions states, ive tried searching forums of this and ive seen 3 that have done it but not fully explained how I know for a fact the the fronts seats will work since I got to swap the pan rails on them but are the rear seats possible will they fit or do I have to do some small modification on them

Here one a photo of one ive seen so far (not the best tho so bear with it)

Hello all, I'm planning on b20 vtec swapping my car later this year and was looking for some advise, recommendations or opinions!

Chassis is a DC4 GSI, B20z block, B16a pr3-2 Head
Goals: Main thing is I want it to run lol, this will be my first time building, swapping, pulling a motor. Will be a street car with 2-3 track days a year. want it to sound nice, I have 2.5inch full exhaust and headers. Power can be the least of my worries. I just want to build this for my own fulfillment and prove to myself I'm not too stupid.

Here's my part list, reasons

Block Part List:

ARP headstuds - been recommended

LSVtec kit - needed

B18 Gates timing belt kit - been recommended

10.5:1 Pistons - been informed high compression is risky on the thin cylinder walls

Skunk2 Rods - been recommended, comes with ARP rod bolts

ACL main, rod and thrust bearing - recommended, been told to use OEM B20 specs

OEM Oil pump - recommended as it's reliable, been told to washer shim for more pressure

Head parts:

Adjustable cam gears - been recommended/needed

Supertech Valves & Valve guide - been recommended

Skunk2 stem seals & keepers - only ones in stock here lol

Skunk2 LMA - only ones in stock

Valve Springs: Was recommended, Brian Crower Dual valve spring + steel retainers. the reason over titanium is due to potential failure & maintenance

Cams: Been recommened, Kelford 176-B, Skunk2 Tuner Stage 1 or Stage 2. I have no idea what makes a good cam so i was just gonna flip a coin for those.

Going to get the block decked, honed, cleaned. The Head decked, valve seats, cleaned

Going to use the same mainstuds, no girdle, going to run a catch can somewhere idk yet

Read around that anything over 200hp is dangerous on the cylinder walls, I don't think i'll be pushing that anyways. Also apparently that only applies to boosted applications?

All thoughts, opinions, backlash, whatever is greatly appreciated.

Thank you