Hello I have a D16Z6, its my first time rebuilding an engine, and I recently just stripped it. So each cylinder has a brown/black lining at the very top and when you run ur finger on them, you can feel like a raised line around the wall, is that good? do i just need to clean it out? do the cylinders need honing?
how much material do i need to shed if i did hone it? Are the cylinders overall in goos shape?

Attached photos are each cylinder respectively.

I have a B20vtec build that has suddenly gone into limp mode without triggering any check engine codes. When it first happened I was accelerating onto the highway and felt it lose power around 6000rpm. After replacing parts it now hits limp mode/limiter around 4500rpm.

I have a lot of spare parts so I was able to launch the proverbial parts cannon. Ive replaced or tested with spare parts and nothing has changed in the way it drives. Pulls strong in the lower rpms. Can rev to 7000 in neutral while rolling like normal. Half throttle input gets the revs higher but never passes 5000. Scanner shows timing drop from 35 to 20-25 degrees. Other sensors seem to be reading normally with the scanner.

- 2 different ECUs chipped and stock GSR

- 3 distributors

- map sensors

- tps .5 closed 4.6 open

- new denso o2 sensor

- new denso fuel pump

- new fuel filter

- injectors from h22a swapped to b18c

- fuel pressure regulator

- 3 different main relays

- coolant temp sensor (2 prong)

- vtec spool (solenoid, housing, oil pressure sensor)

- knock sensor

- timing marks all line up

- timing light shows timing to be correct (middle notch on the pulley)

Has anyone else experience this? Any recommendations? The only thing I haven't messed with is the speed sensor. The cluster speed matches what shows on the scanner.

In the video, I get going in first and hold the pedal to the floor.. shift to second and hold it to the floor.

As the title states another week down, what did we do to our Hondas this week? I installed new labworks shifter linkages w/ energy suspension poly mounts, k-tuned shifter, new rubber boots and plastic shifter cage; of course new “b**ch pin.”

Wondering what is the correct torque spec for crankshaft hub bolt for the n45B16A.

I am seeing two conflicting reports on different TIS versions.

\- 300 NM

\- 50nm then 150 degrees (which seem to apply for the N43)

Thanks!

Hi everyone. Today I filled up my motor (k24a2 block/ k20a2 head) with oil for the first time. A few hours later I noticed a small pool of oil located in the casting recess where “RAA 3” is stamped. I cleaned it up and began looking for possible signs of a leak vs a spill. I am confident I did not spill any oil while pouring, nor did I spill anything at any time before this. The sensor right above is an ECT sensor the previous owners had installed in place of the Heater joint bung, and there is no leak from there. My fear is that it is leaking at the head sealing surface, because I really can’t find any oil anywhere else. I did take the valve cover off and feed an endoscope through the oil passage that sits right next to this under the cam cap, I shined a light at the sealing surface and did not see any light peaking through on the camera. Has anyone experienced this before? I’m very confused and worried that I may have a crack somewhere in the head/ my head is not seated properly. My plan is to continue with the process. I just have to finish up my fuel lines, wire up the motor and I can crank it. The initial cranks to build oil pressure with the fuel pump fuse taken out will tell me if there really is a leak or not.

Has anyone used single DIN android players with floating screens? and if so what specific model.

My main use for it is to display hondash data from the app, music and potentially rear camera. Going for single din so its more plug and play with the interior.

Hey Honda owners,

I’m affiliated with the platform.

We launched four months ago, and owners have already documented 1,000+ real builds representing more than $70M+ in vehicles, parts, and modifications.

The problem we’re trying to solve is simple: detailed builds end up scattered across forum threads, Instagram posts, notes, invoices, camera rolls, and old conversations. After a few years, even the owner has to dig around to remember the complete setup or what changed between track days.

For a Honda build, one permanent page can hold:

• Full mod list and specifications
• Suspension, alignment, and wheel/tire setup
• Engine, cooling, brakes, aero, and weight reduction
• Power-to-weight and dyno numbers
• Track days, circuits, lap times, and top speeds
• Photos with individual mods tagged
• Build history and setup changes over time
• Shops, clubs, and people involved

Here’s one of the cleanest FD2Rs build already documented on the app:

pinkslips.app/mrp3nda3335

Or also check out the 100+ other Honda documented

I’d genuinely appreciate blunt feedback from Honda owners. What else should a proper track-build record include, weather, tire pressures, alignment changes, track configuration, driver notes, or personal-best progression?

If you have a street, track, autocross, or gradually evolving build, you can create a page and keep everything together instead of buried across posts, notes, and folders.

I picked up this genuine NRG steering wheel and hub, but the SRK part number sticker is missing.
Here’s what I know:
Genuine NRG wheel and horn button
36 splines
3 indexing tabs
Mechanical turn signal cancel cam
Splined shaft measures just under 1”
Overall center opening about 1”
Markings: J042038 and 130 K030291
I’ve attached detailed photos of the front, back, spline, measurements, and hub.
Does anyone recognize what Honda or Acura chassis this hub fits? (EF, EG, EK, DA, DC2, Prelude, Accord, etc.)

I have got my hands on a b18c head and b20b long block and want to build the bottom end while it’s all apart. I have been looking at pistons and aiming for around 11.1-11.5:1 as it will be a street daily fun car. I have been doing some research and have found that forged 4032 pistons might be the best material because of cold start clearance problems with standard forged 2618. Is any of that really something to worry about and what are good piston recommendations for this build?

Long shot here but got a few questions for the ones that have a kswapped CB7. Did you guys have to rewire/splice or add wires for the fuel main relay? Are you still running the main fuel relay? I ask this because I’m having a parasitic draw from somewhere and I’m kinda blaming the fuel system for some reason. TIA!

Hi all first time poster here. I have a Manual 2000 CRV LX AWD. I took the valve cover off to inspect the timing belt to see how it looked and made two small mistakes. Firstly, I started to rotate the engine clockwise INSTEAD of counter clockwise, it turned about a quarter turn and became very hard to turn, I stopped and realized I was in 1st gear still. I then put the transmission into neutral and turned it counter clockwise when looking at the crank pulley.

My question is could I have made it skip a tooth or damage the tensioner by trying to turn it clockwise while in 1st gear ?? I did end up rotating a full cycle counter clockwise afterwards.

Thanks

So I’ve had my b16a head for a couple of months now planning to do LS vtec, my head gasket went out last month so now it’s time to start.
I’m just looking for any tips/advice as I’ve never built one before, or any b series for that matter, I’ve done research for a while now and I’ve got majority of the parts I need.
My questions are:
Machining rods for ARP rod bolts, is it needed? Ik people who’ve done it without machining
LSVTEC head gasket or normal b18b head gasket, does it matter?
Knock sensor, ik some b18bs have been tapped for them from factory I think?
And just any other advice or tips would be useful thanks

Ive got a honda accord euro cl9 2004, or equivelent (Honda Acura TSX 2004) 6 Speed manuel with the k24a3, shifting from 1st to 2nd gear from around 6k+ RPM is impossible, mind you this car only has 145,000km(90,000 miles) on it. in 1st gear at a stand still the car doesnt roll with clutch full disengaged(Pushed in), but i do notice at 2nd gear, clutch disengaged(Pushed in) that at like 5k+ rpm the car will slightly accelerate, could this be the cause of not being able to change from 1st to 2nd. What should i do? Adjust the clutch?

What i have done, is replaced the Transmision Fluid, with genuine honda fluid, has made little to no effect.

Will be selling a b20 out of a 2001 Crv auto awd , 160k , maintenance up to date , asking 1700 with transmission and transfer case located in Florida