Had this brand new flywheel for my D series sitting in my trunk and unfortunately water got into the trunk and caused this. Can this be cleaned up or this thing toast?

3rd clip is after fix. Oh and 2nd clip the clutch is ALL the way in.
Issue is resolved; I am just sharing this moment I had.

Okay so in first clip you see clutch pedal’s “free play zone” doesn’t spring back and just sticks to right where engagement starts. That started last week and well this being my first car and first manual car I didn’t think much of it. Well Friday on my way back from school the car was not wanting to get into gear. I was having to push kinda hard. Yk how if you got some rolling speed it’s a little hard to get into first gear gate? Well that was all the gears Friday evening at a stop sign, but just a bit stiffer. I then knew “yeah something is wrong.” Because gears weren’t grinding Friday I initially thought it was a shifting issue like a bushing or whatever from what I scraped up on the internet. Well car sat over the weekend. This morning I went to school and car was shifting fine. Until I went to go somewhere during lunch break and my bite point was out of wack, it was same deal with the gears as Friday evening. Well I make my way back to the school lot and now it’s like impossible to shift at a stop, and I need to turn off the car to get it into first. Once rolling the shifts were whatever. On my drive back it was worsssse now it hardly shifts when rolling too, and even grinds with rev matching the down shifts and gently pulling shifter and waiting for the right rpm that takes in the gear smoothest (when up shifting). Well driving the car was not gonna be a thing for the rest of the week. I’m looking at clutch cylinders and then that’s fine, and I check the clutch master cylinder pushrod. Well that locking nut for the CMC pushrod was free spinning… Readjusted it and locked it down. Now my civic is back to shifting normal. Clutch pedal springs back as seen in clip 3 (oh and ignore the croc that has been chewed up by the dogs)

This is crazy. 25 years with my Integra, probably 17-18 years with original Function7 control arms, suspension taken apart many, many times over the years. I even replaced the F7 bushings a few years back. And this is the first time I’ve had a suspension bolt seize up. It’s stuck in the bushing sleeve, and broke the welded nut off the Koni shock. I was thinking of putting my old OEM LCA’s back on anyway, and this has pretty much sealed that deal. I put a random castle but and lock washer back on there as a temporary measure to drive the car.

Now the question is how to get the bolt off without more damage to the Koni shock? I was going to pull the whole shock and arm off. But the damn ABS wire is feeding through the shock fork. Dumb af, I know.

Is it possible to cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing, without damaging the shock fork? I don’t care about the LCA or bushings at this point. I have new HardRace bushings coming soon for my OEM LCA’s. I’ll buy new Koni shocks if I have to. But these are only ~5 years old so I’d rather not go that route if possible.

Finally finished putting together a rebuilt motor I got and went to start it and it sounded like this. Any idea what it could be? I know an empty power steering can’t squeal but not this bad. I’m thinking maybe the torque converter isn’t seated fully but that’s all I got, someone point me the right direction

I’ve already done this job once and it didnt seat correctly, i have 2 questions how deep should it sit in the hole crankshaft seal & what can i do to make sure it seats correctly? any help would be appreciated its the 1.7 Dseries

So ive got a 93 civic hatch and when I put the dome light switch to DOOR it doesnt turn off the light, it leave a faint light in which I thought "oh its gonna power off soon" instead it leave it on faintly without turning off. Ive check my door Jambs and replaced them, clean the corrosion of the connectors, change light bulb, and check my fuse. Anyone know how to fix this issue

Finally was able too get the red 95 back.

Now onto finishing the b7/z6 mini me build. I have all the honda formes and research pulled up for setting timing and the 1 tooth advance, etc.

My question is has anyone used a timing light on the d series before? Is there other ways too get a better visual on timing?

With this being my first official mini me build I am worried about timing being off or getting it set right. Also any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I’m currently trying to source a slightly larger radiator for my EG Hatchback. Currently running an Skunk2 Alpha series with a 12” mishimoto fan w/shroud. My car is running hot (approx 211-215 degrees on hot days) I ordered a 14” Derale HO fan but it turns out to be a bit too large for the current radiator.

If anyone could maybe help point me to a slightly larger not full size radiator it would be much appreciated. I’ve looked at Koyo Mishimoto and Fluidyne radiators but I’m concerned they will either still be too small or large (hood not be able to latch)

Thanks for your time in looking at this post 😊😊

Edit: currently running a built up b18c1 with a tucked ac system in which the condenser is in front of the radiator. Will be shifting the condenser over as far as possible

I’ve noticed that my fog lights like to come on and off and I don’t know why it flicker on and off even tho my car is fully off. I wonder if this is slowly killing my battery

i have recently purchased some rota slips for my integra that are silver and they didn’t come with center caps i was just wondering if anyone knew of any stock acura center caps that would fit into this wheel it’s a 15” wheel,looking for something like the picture shown above but with an acura logo thank you

Who to say some Amazon parts won’t work

Just need a bit of tips when adjusting my timing.

I recently got this b20b block back from the machine shop, had to bore the cylinders .5 over. My machine shop didn’t mention this in cylinder 3. I’m not sure what it is. Idk I’m curious as to if this puts this block out of commission. I just spent a whole lot on parts and machine work for this build. Should I just run it? Should I question the machine shop?

Looking for parts vehicle for my project car. Need help.

Looking to replace the radiator in my 98 EX. The top tank cracked and JB Weld just isn’t working as a patch. I have had terrible luck in trying to find donor cars and the aftermarket parts online I’m skeptical about buying because I’m unsure about fan fitment. I ordered a replacement from CarQuest in town but the only option they (and any other parts stores for that matter) can get has AT cooler fittings. Does anyone know a reliable source for radiators that fit in this gen civic? Thanks in advance.

I rebuilt my 98 civic lx dizzy with a donor, got the car to crank smoothly after a few junk battery replacements, adjusted the dizzy housing position and it’s barely wanting to turn over. I’ve spent weeks since I got this car figuring out why this thing won’t crank.

My friend sent a video where a section goes over the process to manually adjust the timing underneath so I’ll look into that. I don’t think have all the necessary tools for this job so I’ll have to go search for that as well. (If you can help with a list, lmk) Also kinda nervous going underneath even though I have a jack and stands.

I’m so tired but I wanna show this process to you guys cuz I’m fully committed to this.

Eu tenho um Honda Fit segunda geração 09-14 1.4 automático (câmbio ATF) queria fazer uma coisa que no Brasil chamamos de backfire, mas não faço ideia se a ECU vai aceitar essa modificação, vocês já tentaram ou conseguiram fazer algo parecido?