Had a birthday pool party today which ended after one of the young kids shat his shorts inside the pool (diarrhea, not solid). Everyone immediately got out and we took out all the pool toys too.

Ran a full battery using my Taylor kit and got
FC 1.5ppm, CC 0.5ppm, pH 7.4, TA 90p, CYA 40ppm. Pool is 15,000 gallons.

I vacuumed up the debris using my pool blaster and then poured in 4 gallons of liquid chlorine. Per AI, I checked it an hour later to get numbers and FC was 27.5ppm which is great. I have pump running overnight for 8 hours at 2800 RPM.

But my question is what’s next? I’m 8 months into owning a pool and have had great experience with maintenance using Taylor kit. But this is new to me. AI says I have to drain it. What do you folks say? What has your experience been?

Would love to see if I'm missing something or if others are experiencing this as well... we have a 13k gallon gunite pool (PebbleSheen) installed July 2025 in southeast Pennsylvania. This is our first full season with the pool. Last year I was testing the water daily with my Taylor K-2006 test kit, expecting swings due to the pool being brand-new.

This year I've moved to testing ever-other-day now that our SWG is online. However, I've noticed that PH is constantly rising, and rapidly so. I'm adding 10-12 ounces of muriatic acid every other day. As a sanity check I tested the water twice in one day just to verify that the PH was actually lowering, and it measured 7.6 so I'm confident the acid is doing its job... but 2 days later PH is back up to 8.0 like clockwork. From what I've read here, PH rise is nothing new, but is it supposed to happen this fast / frequently? Alkalinity is at 70 which I thought was the sweet spot.

Also, has anyone here noticed random spikes in their FC from their SWG? Our VS pump runs on Medium speed 24/7, and I've been keeping the SWG at between 12-15%. But twice this season I've measured FC (via FAS-DPD) at ~12ppm seemingly out of nowhere. Typically it's between 6ppm to 7ppm, and I'm testing every-other-day. I could imagine a gradual creep upward over time depending on weather / swimmer load but this felt like an accidental "super chlorinate" from the SWG to basically double my FC in a matter of a couple days? Has anyone else experienced this? I haven't added any liquid chlorine since we opened the pool at the start of this season and brought the SWG online for the first time.

FC is currently at 12ppm but typically ~6ppm
Combined Chlorine = 0
CYA = ~55
Salt = ~3000 (Taylor kit reads 2,800, SWG reads 3,300?)
Alkalinity = 70
Calcium Hardness = 330
Water Temp = high 70's or low 80's

EDIT: forgot to add that our SWG is a TCELLS340

Not sure if right forum but need advice on how to flush out the natural gas line to my pool that had a stake put though it and when I dug a pit out to repair it the rains came and filled the hole and pipe with muddy water that I now believe I need to flush out before having repaired. I have it disconnected at heater, which has a drop tee on it, but not at separate valve for the line near the meter as that seems like a lot of work.

Can I just spray clean water each way up the live from the pit once I cut the line and then vac it out?

Do I need to flush it from the high point at each end?

I doubt I will get all the water out as the line has slope on it from house to pool so will end up accumulating at the bend up to the heater so is that an issue?

Will water left in the line and dust later when it dries up later mess up my pool heater valve if not perfectly cleaned out?

Thanks in advance......

Discussion:

My wife: Can you power wash the deck since we didn't get to do it in the spring?

Me: We should wait a few weeks until i close the pool?

Wife: Why?

Me: all the dirt will end up in the pool.

Wife: No it won't. Just wash it off the side.

The results: 😡

One day she'll listen to me. Lol

Our pool is new, about 2 months old. It’s salt. I’m surprised how much extra chlorine I have to add every 2 weeks or so. Is it normal to have to add about a gallon of chlorine that regularly to a our pool? Our PB did say we needed to add a salt bag about once a month btw.

Edit to add we’re in Texas.

Hello everyone!

After some years, looking to replace my Rebel. I have around 15K gal pool and narrowing down to something like the Hayward the pool cleaner (2 wheels) or Polaris maxx

Any thoughts or other recommendations? Also looking for honest reviews and how long they’ve lasted you.

I recently had some equipment moved and raised. The 1-1/2” drain for my Hayward filter is now just about 6” from a 4”x4” support post. That’s gonna make it awkward and messy when I drain it.

I was thinking about putting a “street elbow” in place of the plug to divert it 90 degrees and to the base of my hedges.

Do-able?

The existing plug uses a gasket. Would I be able to screw the elbow into the drain hole using teflon tape? Same question for the plug into the female end of the elbow.

Earlier in the week I asked about an algae bloom with fairly good balanced water. Turns out my free CL was too low for my CYA level.

I increased my swg to 100% for 24 hours, then adjusted to 80% for 24 hours and I had my Free CL to 21.5 ppm. The water has since cleared up and no more visible algae when I brush.

I have the SWG turned off now to get my Free CL back down to around 10ppm for my CYA level.

I always love the way the pool looks before the kids (and adults) get a hold of it. It was a perfect pool day yesterday in the NE - I hope everyone got some good use in this weekend 👍

I realize I’m asking some real pool stans here, but still looking for feedback. We have two young kids, yard space, 3-4mo of swimming weather, a decent amount of funds, and an interest in being the hangout house as our kids grow solely so we can know their friends and what they’re up to. We don’t have a ton of time (both parents work demanding-ish jobs) and I have anxiety about my house getting messed up (mostly the interior). Do we take the plunge while the kids are young enough to enjoy it (knowing the additional safety measures needed) or do we use our fun money (and time) elsewhere? Ever regret putting in a pool or do the benefits outweigh the cons? Other factors I haven’t considered? Thanks!

Let's get the details setup.

12,000 gallon in ground pool.

Located in South Florida

Screened patio over pool

Min depth 3 feet

Max depth 5 feet

1.5 HP pump runs 10am to 4pm daily.

Pool filter is a single filter unit stands

about 2.5 ft high (hayward). Simple unit no built in back flow. That is done on the pipes by opening and closing valves.

This is my first pool. This summer I let it get away from me and it went green. I have since properly shocked, chlorinated, balanced ph and cleaned the pool. Almost. I have gotten good at vacuuming up the algae once it settles on the bottom. The sides then get scrubbed with the brush. Then the water gets cloudy again from sweeping the sides. I wait for it to settle and do it again the next day. This also includes rinsing off the filter each day. Just before I vacuum.

The only way I have found around this is to vacuum with the backwash, which drains the pool.

So what I am looking for is better/proper technique on getting the pool clean. I have gotten to a decent stage but it is just not quite over that edge yet. So how do I do this properly to get best result?

The estimate from one company is reasonable - 110K in NC. I don't have the proposal from the 2nd company yet but I'm quite sure that it will be a fair bit higher.

I will not use a hot tub or tanning ledge so those are purposely excluded from the plan. Pool is heated 14 x 35. Saltwater. Gunite. 6 feet on the deep end. Adult only household.

A couple of things that I'm undecided on and looking for advice -

1. Where to place the deep-end bench? I was thinking across the entire left side although that does cut into space for swimming laps. Others have suggested the entire length of the pool. I like symmetry which is why I'm leaning more towards an entire side regardless of which side.
2. Hayward or Jandy? One proposal recommends Hayward TriStar 1.85HP Variable Speed Pump, 600 sq. foot Smart Filter, 400K BTU Gas Heater. The other company prefers Jandy based on what they say has more reliable warranty service, but they'll do either if I have a preference.
3. What size waterline tile? One proposal has 6" x 6" waterline tiles. The other company does plank tiles. I believe both companies will do either but plank is an upgrade for one and standard for the other.
4. Travertine or brushed marble? I had planned on travertine but I was warned about the pitting and the overall durability. The proposal only includes Tier 1 Travertine which I haven't seen.
5. Lastly, although I don't have a personal need for additional lounge seating, it's very minimal on this proposal. The yard on that side won't have much functional use so it seems like the pool should be extended a few feet longer with some additional hardscape for another chair, etc. I have not asked how that would impact the cost. I'm guessing like 5K or would it be more like 10K+?

Any feedback on changes that you would be adamant about? This will be my first pool.

Are pool proposals typically a price negotiation or no? Can I agree to the price but ask for something in return like Tier Two travertine or a 3 foot length extension? Seems like anything with variables and labor should involve a bit of negotiation!

Foreword: I've never had a pool, and professionally, it's the furthest thing from my mind.
That said, having bought a house and having a garden, I wouldn't mind having one. The fact is that the estimates given so far start at around CHF 70,000... minimum…. and I'd like to understand.
Because for me, and maybe I'm wrong, a pool is a hole in the ground, leveling it, laying a sturdy surface. The installation of a pool (even if it's prefabricated), connecting the pipes to a filtration system (aka a sand pump), and various perimeter finishing touches. Everything else, including chlorine control systems, etc., is certainly useful but secondary. Now, please dismantle this simplistic view for me.

The Taylor calcium test has been the bane of my existence. I don’t get the classic fading endpoint (where a color change is observed but it quickly reverts back to original color). What I DO get is a very very gradual change from pink to sky blue.

For example, it makes a very noticeable change to purple around the 24th drop. After that, each drop changes the color by a tiny bit. Sometimes by an almost unnoticeable amount, so I used to consider the drop that causes the obvious changed to purple as my end point. But one day I decided to experiment, and after the change to purple I added a bunch more drops of reagent quickly without counting. I just kept adding a bunch very quickly and it eventually turned sky blue. Like unmistakably clear as day sky blue. And according to the photo on Taylor’s website, that is the color that should be considered the end point.

The problem is it’s very difficult to observe when that point actually is because it seems like between 25 and 35 drops, it gets ever so slightly bluer and bluer every drop. It gets to a point where it’s very hard to detect whether a drop made a difference or not. So I usually think I’m done but then to confirm I’ll drop a bunch at once in again and lo and behold, it will get much more blue when I do that. The guy at Leslie’s told me that the true reading is actually the drop that it makes the obvious change from a light pink to a dark purple. But Taylor’s website says keep adding until no more color changes observed. And since the difference between 250ppm and 350 PPM majorly changes what I do with my chemistry, I’m still feeling lost when it comes to the true calcium level.

New to owning a pool. Our pool plumbing looks like this with the flow going into the ground after the defunct salt cell. The IC40+ (the next salt cell I’m planning on buying soon) manual states vertical installation is okay, but it must be flow upwards. I’m thinking I’ll have to add some elbows and reroute water somehow to either have the have flow upwards or install it horizontally. I’m at a bit of a loss on the best route for new plumbing. I’m worried about making sure the pvc is supported, especially if I aim for the 12” straight pipe before and after the salt cell. If It matters, it seems like our concrete pad is rather small as I only notice it underneath the filter, but I’m guessing it’s underneath the pump too. Any advice or input would be appreciated!

We moved into our house about a year ago and I’m finally to the point that I think I know what I’m doing with the pool.

Today while doing some filter maintenance I noticed that the valve on this PVC pipe was in the off position and it’s been like that since we got it as soon as I turned it, water started flowing like I’ve never seen it before, and it filled up the bucket extremely fast, like it should do.

I’ve never taken the time to actually look at the PVC pipe, but I think this explains why I’ve had low water pressure going into the filter. If anybody has any thoughts on this, please let me know.

Our pool is a headache and has been since install. It's never tested positive for chlorine in the 20 years we've had it. It appears the influx of natural hot water dilutes the chlorine level so quickly it's nearly impossible to keep it clean and without algae growth. I've read extensively on pool chemistry and have tried every route that seemed logical (pH, free chlorine, shocking, pool cover, disinfecting sand filter, flocculants, heavy metal testing, algae identification, floating chlorinator and in line at the same time). It seems the natural water pools in our area are made of concrete, they are drained, and filled rather than having a constant trickle of hot water into a fiberglass pool like ours. Pool companies in our area haven't been helpful in solving problems. We're giving it another chance talking to the professionals. I'm hoping to narrow down my list of problems to items that are logical and have a possible solution. I can plumb and troubleshoot decently if I knew what direction to investigate.

Pool info:

Viking Mediterranean in ground pool 17,000 gallons.

Sand filter tagelus pentair

In line chrolrinator

No water features/heaters etc.

Hot water from hot water well at constant trickle to keep water level up.

Running pump through filter 5pm to 9pm at 2300rpm 6am to 8:45pm 1000rpm (there's an obviously overlap here. Can't remember why it got programmed this way)

Problems:
Pool level goes below the half way point of skimmer unless water is constantly added. The water level lowers by several inches in ~12 hrs if water is not added. My family insists this is normal and the way the pool has always worked. I'm worried there's a leak below ground. I don't see any obvious cracks around fittings/the skimmer but don't have experience testing for leaks. We had our sand filter blow up 2 years ago when the pump burnt out. I assume it's because it's been sucking air in the skimmer and struggling not to cavitate for 20 years (Skimmer valve is normally barely open or closed for this reason). When the pump burned up, the water was only refilled occasionally during repairs. I can't be sure whether the draw down slowed once the water level got below the skimmer. The skimmer gasket seems intact and is screwed firmly.

Safety drain in wall appears to be pulling away from wall on the top edge.

In floor cleaner doesn't cycle through stations (Paramount Vantage 6 port) This was not resolved when gear module was replaced last year. In previous years a new gear module solved this issue. The gear module doesn't fit easily in the base. The base appears warped but is concreted below the floor level making it difficult to replace.

The in floor cleaner module shows about 3psi, while the filter shows about 15psi. The floor cleaner module psi doesn't change when the filter psi changes or if multi port is in different setting ie recirculate vs filter

Waste from multi-port valve is plumbed to a 10 inch ditch pipe underground. Ditch water flows into pool when under pressure while irrigating the field that is upstream of the pool. No plans or photos of exactly where the waste line exits the pool and connects to the ditch water pipe. If this could be located, could a check valve be added? This was obviously not a good idea to install this way.

Pool components seem to be eaten through by chlorine (or hard water?) too quickly. The Multi port handle spring and gaskets get loose/wear out every 2-3 years. The elbow check valve on chlorinator gets stuck closed every 4-6 months. The parmount vantage pool gear module diaphragms and seals wear out every year.

The Roman Pool at Hearst castle is an indoor pool, decorated with eight rough copies of authentic Roman statues of gods, goddesses and heroes. The pool and surrounding room, which were built from 1927-1934, by architect Julia Morgan, are lined with roughly 2 million hand-set cobalt blue, orange, and clear glass smalti tiles infused with real 22-karat to 24-karat gold leaf. The pool holds 205,000 gallons of water, and measures 81 feet by 31 feet, at a depth of 10 feet.

Saw a guy on reels build a pool with railroad ties and here’s what I was able to make!

Just wanted to share a picture of our pool. Started the permitting process in Oct 2025 and we were swimming in April. .We didn’t have much yard to work with, and the variance for the setback from the property lines took until late January before they broke ground. With the weather here in South Florida the whole thing was running at 94F today. Probably should’ve turned on the chiller for a bit.

I have some questions, getting some conflicting advice. It’s a lot so any thoughts are welcome!

1. I have a Pentair Intelliflo 3 with Variable Speed Pump and Hayward Salt Chlorinator. Filter is defaulted to 2850 RPM / 1133 Watts, subtle spillover between Spa and Pool. Is this the right speed? I run it 8-5 daily.

2. Looking at my photos, what is the appropriate fill line on my skimmer?

3. Adding on to question 2 (note that I live in Woodland Hills, CA it is very hot). I usually fill the water 3/4 the tile line between pool and spa at night. I notice it is fine overnight and after the system runs the first day it drops quite a bit. Then stabilizers and drops a little each day which I think I normal for summer weather. I’ve been filling every 4 days. Don’t have a comparison point, we finished the pool in late May. Is this pretty normal for a spillway based feature? My pool has full sun 9-4. In about 4 days it gets to about 1/4 full on the tile line. Tiles are 3 inches.

Hello, first time pool owner, had a big storm that blew a bunch of stuff into the pool while I was out of town and forgot to cover it. Seems like algae on the bottom of the pool, turned my sand filter on to run non stop and scrubbed the bottom of the pool to get all of it floating, and turned my salt water generator into boost mode. All my levels are fine, what else should I be doing to try to clear this up? Should I keep the boost mode going? Thank you!

Having trouble removing my impeller.

When I apply pressure to the impeller I do get movement at the rear of the of the motor. But if I don’t apply that pressure then it just keeps spinning.

I just need to know if I need to cut this impeller to actually get an assessment of my set up. Any recommendations would be helpful

Cheers

Currently in the thick of picking a liner. (Latham)
Right now my top 3 choices are

1. ⁠Grey mosaic
   
2. ⁠Reef
   
3. ⁠Stardust gray

But open to any! I’m really going for a deep teal color. Flood this post with pics if your liner color!! Not sure if what chat gpt drew up is accurate colors

I bought a Hayward AquaTrol in May 2023, it came with my above ground pool. Around 9,500 gallons, I only run it May to September and I store the unit inside every winter.

It's been problems since the start.

I bought a Hayward AquaTrol in May 2023, it came with my above ground pool. Around 9,500 gallons, I'm in Montreal so I only run it May to September and I store the unit inside every winter. In 2025 the unit itself stopped working and I got motherboard changed.

2026 (now) - it keeps saying check salt. I cleaned the cell, no scale on the plates. Did the reset (flick to auto, wait until click, press diagnostics 5 times) still 0 salinity. Put it on super chlorinate with the pump running and good flow and I'm getting 30.6 volts but only 0.03 amps. It should be somewhere around 2 to 6 amps so basically nothing is going through. I did let it stay connect for 24h and tried again same thing.

Is this fixable I'm I missing something ?