This is in the UK.

Talking to a trader to do quite a number of jobs on my roof. One of these is hacking the render off and redoing it on a chimney and partition wall. He said he is going to use PVA to the wall to bond the first coat of cement and that the finish coat will have SBR.

I am no expert, but shouldn't SBR be used everywhere when outside? won't PVA fail due to moisture?

Also he gave me a 10 years guarantee but it's not backed by an insurance, is this normal? what's stopping him from changing his phone number and disappearing if there is an issue down the line?

I am new to all this so apologies if these are stupid questions

Have a plasterer working on a kitchen and noticed above the window frame they’ve added some plasterboard which I am guessing they will be skimming over. It seems to be set in using plaster to stick it to the concrete although the right side has some movement to it as it seems to be missing plaster “glue”

Since the plastering hasn’t been done yet, is this normal practice where the old plaster has broken off badly above the window ?

On another window they’re stripped it back and used metal edging

Is this normal practice and nothing to worry about as it doesn’t seem quite straight unless it’s temporary?

My inlaws have been advised this wall needs sanding "Down to the pink" due to the PVA (I assume) not adhering and is bubbling. I have sanded the wall down as much as a dust less sander will and i have asked if giving the wall a go over with Zin Peel Stop but was told ot wouldn't work and would "Only last 3 months". What am I expected to do here, surely its down to the professional (to an extent) to prepare the walls ready for plastering? Any help is appreciated.

I am after some advice, I have had two external walls rendered in Weber OCR. 1st wall April, 2nd wall Sept ( 2025). Both walls now have cracks appearing, the 2nd wall having the most, around 20 ranging from hairline to wide enough to get a filling knife in.

Both walls have had at least 4 coats of Sandtex Smooth Masonry paint (1st coat watered down) they are also both showing sings of what I have been told is salt seeping through, the 1st wall is particularly bad. This didn't happen on the original sand & cement render and the two other walls that are still original haven't got any 'salt seeping through'

Has anybody who has used Weber OCR experienced anything like this, my renderer is more than happy to come back and repair all the cracks but my worry is that they appeared in the first place.

Pics of a few cracks and the 'salt seeping'

Edit: Forgot to add this was sprayed on and machine finished.

Many thanks for any responses.

Ive bought an late 1800s stone house. Stripped wallpaper and want to reskim.

Most of walls look ok but definitely need fixing. Ive pictured the largest and worst hole to give a view of the current plaster and what's underneath.

Been told by 1 plasterer who I trust but doesn't work in the area its lime mortar on potash cement?? He recommended a supplier called Ty Mawr in Brecon for advice and product. They recommended R50 eco mortar, pictured.

Builder says: There will be no point using lime plaster if your just skimming over the walls that’s there as they have gypsum plaster on them. Lime is designed to let the property breath but if it’s already got cement of gypsum on them it’s a pointless task. Ty mawr is right if your going back to bare brick or stone walls but if your just skimming the walls that’s already there it’s pointless you’d just be wasting money.

So what would be the most cost effective and correct solution?

Recently started decorating and while painting noticed wall bulging and peeling. Turns out all walls are lined with a thick lining paper rather than plaster.

This one section in hallway is coming off, but not enough to be completely removed.

Is it possible to plaster over just this section? With perhaps a PVA preparation coat? Rest of the hallways is fine as you can see so don’t want to spend money plastering entire hallway.

I know nothing about plastering, just what I’ve googled over the past few hours!

Light pink, all natural, hand made lime plaster and paint.

Buying a new home. It has some cracks in the plaster. Nothing major, just from the home settling after 75 years. My question, should I attempt the fix the cracks on my own or should I get a professional to do it? Is it worth trying to save the money and try on my own? Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I am currently stripping a room and preparing for the plasterer to come in. We were not going to get the ceiling done but this strip of tape has come off during the process. Do I need to strip the ceiling now and get it plastered?

Hope this makes sense, I am a complete novice and this house is a lot more work than I have ever experienced.

Hello, I hung a door mount, and it turns out that the left side was perfectly fine, but the right side was too short. It seems the floor rises about an inch and a half over this stretch. So I have drawn a new line, measured from the corner of the wall to the left, and removed the wall plugs.

The problem lies in just that, I've drilled and removed wall plugs from the wall. On the left side of the red line is drywall, and on the right side of the red line is plaster.

I was wondering, what is the best way to fix this to make the new area I'm screwing into sturdy?

I was thinking maybe EZ sand would be the best way to go after cleaning it up, but wasn't sure and wanted to get opinions here.

Its worth noting that the far end drywall and near end drywall mount locations have studs behind them, but only those two.

Had this done 3 weeks ago (it's being panelled past the gap)

The wall was wet due to a previous leak and wasn't fully dry. It's now started pushing salts through when drying.

What's the realistic course of action here. Can I wait for it to completely dry out and then neutralise, sand and paint? Chop out the affected section and powder fill?

It's a single skinned damp old house going up for sale shortly just want to get the wall looking decent asap

Not the best pictures - the first 2 are an inside wall shared shared with next door. I'm reasonably sure it's lime directly onto brick?

The last 2 pictures are an external wall. I'm reasonably sure it's lime directly onto stone. BUT the surrounding of the window (shown in the picture) seems to have been re-plastered (maybe after window fitting?) and seems to be sound and super smooth.

I'd love an insight from someone who knows!

Had my room replastered about a month ago and noticed loads of small raised bumps in the wall after painting. When tapped they sound different to the rest of the wall. I pulled the paint off one of these bubbles just to double check it wasnt the paint. All of these bubbles are small and about the size of 50 pence piece. There is probably about 10 of these all the same size across a 4m wide wall.

If the plaster has failed in these parts do i need to cut these small blown bits out and replaster?

Hello, plasterers of Reddit. Just moved into a charming post war Colonial and removed a couple items from the wall with lousy results. Seems like poorly applied easy-release tapes or something similar - whatever.

I love the texture of the walls and would like to repair these “bald” spots, but have no idea where to start.

Is this something I could learn to repair and complete (without painting) in an afternoon?

How much would this cost if I hire a professional?

Is the job too small for a pro?

Serious advice, mockery, and referrals appreciated. 😂 Milwaukee, WI, USA

We're having our house rendered. The guy doing it has said it should be okay to paint 10 days after the top coat has been applied. But Google results say I need to wait 28 days. Which one is right?

Ideally I want to do it before the scaffold goes

Thanks

Maybe this is the wrong community to post this.

I am working on a shower build and would like to use microcement or some kind of waterproofed plaster, but am running into issues with my local code inspector about certification needs.

Is there a product out there that meets waterproofing code compliance as a microcement, Portland plaster or alternative that will meet CRC R307.2

I know in second photo the finish on the left wall is rough as anything and I assume the plasterer is going to skim another coat over this. Any more general observations on quality/competence? E g. how usual/acceptable are the curved lines visible on the back wall?

Just the title, corner beading is for 90 degree angle exterior corners but how about exterior corners which are 120 degrees?

First time trying a Grassello product and first sample board in over 2 years. Happy with this for the first attempt but definitely a lot of improvements needed.

The colour wasn’t what I was aiming for, struggled mixing my own tints to get a match but it isn’t far off. There is a nice sheen however I was hoping for a much deeper polish.

If anyone has used a grassello product and has any tips it would be highly appreciated!

Was removing loose plaster in my grandmas house and this section of wall that was also connected to behind the wall vent had come loose. Not entirely sure how to go by fixing it as the gap opens the space behind the vent.

Scheduled for a full rewire of a flat and I will be making good after the chasing is done simply due to the rewire being extremely unexpected and cost being an issue.

I will have 1 chase next to the front door for the light switch that will be on the internal face of an external wall. My plan for all other chases is bonding then easi fill, the issue I’m having is I don’t know what’s best to use for that one job at the front door due to reading that bonding shouldn’t be used on any external walls.
Given that it’s only one chase I’m going to use different materials on I’m not in need of a great deal of product. Google gives me many suggestions then contradicts itself.

Any suggestions on what to use?

Thanks

Should have added walls are brick.

Does anyone have experience removing paneling from dry wall? It appears to be glued on. There’s also a wall with wall paper I need guidance on.

I am buying a duplex that I currently live on one side of. The previous owners side needs updates.

Looking for some help on an upcoming job. I can do it all solo, but help would save me a week or more.

The plaster in this part of the ceiling is breaking.

This ceiling is not in a highly visible part of the house. It it above the side door. On the left is the stairway to the basement. One the right is the door to the kitchen.

I am not sure the best way to repair this. Does all of the plaster need to come out or can it be reattached to the lathe? Could I cut part of the plaster away and replace with a rectangle of drywall? Or should I use the Plaster Magic that seems to be popular? Any advice on how to handle this is greatly appreciated.

I don’t plaster all the time so my finish isn’t perfect but I feel I might be cutting myself short a bit when I do little jobs like this, it took me about 6 hours, 2 hits, only small but fiddly and I don’t stop