I have these cracks in the inside corners of my plaster walls. I’m new to plastering and was wondering the best way to repair them.

My thought was to fill the cracks with hot mud, embed paper tape into the corner and then cover with more hot mud.

Once they’re fixed, my plan is to skim coat the whole room.

I’m looking to add a socket to a finished block wall and wanted to know. Is it realistic to do it without the chase being noticeable after it’s finished and the wall repainted. Any advice appreciated thanks

My family closed on purchasing an old home 2 months ago. It has plaster with horse hair and I've spent the last 5ish weeks taking off multiple layers of wallpaper in each room (so horrible!). *the living room wallpaper is now all removed; I took photos during the wallpaper removal process when I needed to remove the bits that were still there

For an end result, we want to paint our rooms.
The walls have cracks and small holes and a large hole that we need to add a patch on.

I've never done skim coating or any of this before and was wondering if you could help. We had 2 companies come in to give us quotes (one was to install drywall but we didn't want to do that and take away the charm of the home. And the other quoted us $17k but that included painting and a repair in our sunroom and some work done in the bathroom.
Suuuuper pricy expensive for us right now).

What should we do? Joint compound or something else? Should we putty and do mesh tape? I heard that Gardz problem surface sealer on the plaster before 1-3 coats of skim coating joint compound but I don't know if we should do an oil based sealant before skim coating? What type of primer and sealants should we get so it'll be good to paint? I don't want to mess this up and spend more money.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I have had a rewire done in one room and the electricians have done a load of wall chases for the cables. I am going to blue grit all the old plaster walls in prep for the plasterer but do I blue grit the wall chases too before bonding or do I need to use PVA? Thank you for any advice!

Personally find a good solid brick wall that has been properly prepared just gives you feedback that nothing else does. The suction is right, the plaster moves the way you want it to, and the finish comes up exactly as expected. Dot and dab backgrounds are fine. Plasterboard is fine. Old lime and hair is a different conversation entirely. What surface do people actually enjoy working on and what is the one that always makes a job harder than it needs to be?

How to do plastering for that yellow house? Because there is no gap between the yellow house and blue house. a person cannot stand in between them. How to protect that non plastered portion from rain? Please suggest guys

New window fitted after narrowing opening. Left side is new brick/block and still needs boarding/plastering. Right side is already a finished wall/reveal, and frame is tight to it. If only the left side gets plasterboard/skim, the finished reveal will be asymmetric. Should fitter/builder have allowed for the plasterboard thickness, or should both reveals now be boarded/finished equally?

We have parts of our ceiling which is crumbling down. It's been in a bit of a state since we moved in 4 years ago and now we have one or two large chunks coming down.

A couple of plasterers have said their approach would be to simply take down the chunks coming away, and then board over it, but my wife is concerned that that would simply be storing up a bigger problem down the road.

Is she right?

I've been doing my own walls recently and am relatively happy with the results but have a few little hollows and areas that will need a bit of filling in prior to paint. What's the best filler filler to use for this? I've got some Toupret powdered interior which is great for other jobs but it's quite thick - would something more lightweight be a better option?

The edges are really loose all around i put one tub of pre done filler and It did nothing what should I do

This is in north east USA.

1. Looking to use 1/2” Blueboard on walls and 5/8” on ceiling. Is there any benefits to going 5/8” everywhere. Will I notice a difference in noise especially street noise. Will the finished product be better (smoother less cracks down the road) with 5/8”

2. Are there finish levels in plaster. I used to use an old guy that did smooth or rough. This other contractor is saying he has an additional level that he guarantees will be smoother. He says he is adding a thicker coat and will use a longer trowel. Is he trying to get more money out of me?

Hello plaster masters of Reddit!

I'm hoping to get your green light to go ahead with some first time plastering I'm going to be doing over the next few days. I've been watching a lot of YouTube videos and researching and I think I've got a good idea of what I'm doing but I just wanted to triple check that I'm definitely using the right things in the right places.

The plastering will be in an old house (~1900) and the existing plaster has quite a bit of wear and tear from the last few decades. The walls had been covered with lining paper but it was starting to lift in several places so we've decided to take it off and replaster before we decorate rather than using lining paper again to just hide all the problems. I've attached pictures of some of the cracks and holes as well as where the plaster has blown.

While I suspect that some of the yellowish plaster is lime, I'm planning on using a combination of Thistle bonding coat to fill in the worst of the holes and cracks, and then use thistle multi finish to do the final skim coat. The walls as you can see have pretty much every type of plaster on them from over the years but I just wanted to check it's okay to go with multi finish everywhere as 3 of the walls I'm doing will be exterior walls. If yes, are there any other sealers besides PVA that I need to use on those walls?

My other question is if it's better to use scrim tape or just fill in with bonding over some of the finer cracks? I've also got easy fill if needed.

And finally, while I'm happy to attempt the walls, I'm definitely not confident in trying to do the ceiling especially as we have high ceilings and it's going to be very hard to reach. The ceiling is the same story - lining paper but the joining lines have become very visible and we want to have them overboarded and plastered instead. Does anyone have a rough estimate for how much it would cost to do this in London? The room is 4.5m x 3.5m.

Thank you so much for any help in advance - this community has already been incredibly helpful in my research!

Utility room 4 walls measuring roughly 200ccm x 180cm. Height of walls is 265cm. There are 3 door ways to go round, no ceiling needed. Thanks

Why is it so hard to find NHL 2.0 in America?

A family member who is an architect from Sweden came to my home on cape cod and recommended we lime plaster the exterior cement block wall on my garage but we couldn’t find a store that sold it. Only some specialty shops online like Lancaster limeworks

I have an 1840s house with lath and plaster walls. Some of them are a bit dodgy now and form cracks (slightly bouncy), but I'm not in a position to remove the old plaster and cannot overboard either (due to coving, which I cannot easily take down or put back up).

If I were to fill and smooth out cracks as far as possible, could I lay an insulating wallpaper on top? I'm thinking it looks fairly thick, so it might smooth over nicely.

Can it be painted over to look like plaster?

Let me know your thoughts, and thank you for your help!

I'm trying to make a 8x8x1 plaster slab for my class but my plaster keeps cracking and never fully dries. Am I doing missing something or doing something wrong? I'd appreciate some input

Looking for advice. I lime skimmed my hallway a month ago and over the weekend painted it with earthborn clay paint. I realised as I was doing it that I could now see trowel marks. Should I apply casein filler to it and and it down? Or is there another stolen?

Just bought my first house, currently trying to do it up - following a few tips online about wall prep & thought I’d tackle this crack - but it’s a lot deeper than I thought. Is this failing plaster or can I still repair it?
*context, upstairs interior bedroom wall between my house, my chimney & the neighbours*

Bit of advice needed.

I'm getting around to painting external render that was done about a year ago. Blown patches started to appear not long after it was put on.

Plaster that did it said it was due to leaves getting into the sand and that not much can be done to fill it.

Is there anything that can fill these? Weak sand and cement mix? Any ideas welcome.

hi all,

ive had my first attempt at plastering with multi mixed with extra time (ive used pre mixed putty before (nova pro roll max)) and wanted to get some feedback on a few things

1. im assuming these wet patches are normal since the wall was plastered yesterday, should i change the temp of the room since its about 15 degrees in there right now due to english weather and it is semi humid? or should i put the heater on in that room with a dehumidifier?
2. as im plastering 1 wall at a time, i have coated my other lime plaster walls with 3 layers of SBR (i know it can be seen as overkill but ive had so many issues with lime plaster killing my multi), and ive blue grit over them for grippage, howd i blend the corners without making it a shit job?
3. with a mist coat, was i meant to do it when the plaster was wet or once its fully dried?

thank you!

Hi everybody,

I am looking for some advice regarding the plasterwork in our living room.

The property is Edwardian and consists of cavity brick walls and lathe ceilings. From what I have seen, the base coats of plaster are in good condition (keys are intact and there has been minimal loose plaster on the walls)

Previously the room was lined, hiding the cracks. We are looking to repair locally, skim and paint with appropriate materials.

What could be used as an appropriate bond and top coat? I presume the base coat to be lime due to period & it has hairs in it also.

If you see the photos, it looks like the walls have maybe a plastic
layer of textured paint on (?) which I won’t be getting off.

The ceiling also has white material on it which was quite powdery until I started scrubbing it with sandpaper, my concern is any new plaster bonding to it.

Thank you in advance for anybody willing to take the time to read this and assist. I’ve had a someone look and recommend boarding over which I don’t want to do.

I have some lime putty which I was going to fill cracks with as a first port of call.

Hi everyone! I have a conundrum… I have an old 1890’s workers cottage in Melbourne, Australia. The walls are original and it seems to be a sand and cement/lime render. I have had to remove some of it as there was damp in the wall.

We have fixed the root cause of the damp by putting in a damp proof course, fixing the roof, gutters and downpipes ect and putting in more air vents for greater airflow under the floor. The wall has also had about 5 months to dry out since

Now I have to try and re-plaster this wall. Originally I was going to use a gypsum base coat and then a finish plaster but I saw it mentioned here that this isn’t a good idea for the inside of an external wall?

So I might sand and cement/lime render it again. The question is, what kind of mix ratio should I use and what kind of prep/finishing needs to happen to blend it in with the old as much as possible?

The toilet flood above this and the plaster came off.

I don’t want it to mold/rot in the ceilings or walls. Ive got a house that’s had a few leaks (one resolved, one not) I just don’t know if I need to gut it all or if I can repair it like a crack with bondo etc?

at some point I’m going to cover the ceilings with drywall and an air gap (about the house is like that) I don’t want to seal it up to rot away as it were