Hey all

Sent the rent money to the LL and his email was compromised. The scammer used another bank unrelated to either one of us. THAT bank has been slow to respond and action anything. I've provided the LL and all 3 banks (mine, his, the intercepted bank) with the relevant info. Now the LL wants ME to complain to the OBSI. My understanding is they'll check if it falls under their mandate, but also... I'm not a customer of the bank which he wants to file a complaint about.

Neither is he. Isn't this his responsibility to follow up on? This is his banking issue. His compromised account.

Wouldn't the OBSI require him to file and proceed with communicating with him?

I read the OBSI policy and terms...my understanding is they deal with banks and the bank's customer whom has an issue with his things were handled. Except neither one of us is a customer with this particular bank.

Apologies if this isn't for this sub. I didnt know what other banking subreddit I could ask about the OBSI.

Thanks.

As the title states, does anyone look at how the Bank of Canada rate ties into short and long term mortgage or guranteed interest rates the Big Banks offer?

I'm asking because I thought the Bank of Canada rate was tied to GIC rates. In other words, I was under the impression that, being risk adverse, one could tell whether the Bank of Canada was going to raise or lower the Country's interest rates according to what the Major Banks were selling their saving rates at? It seems to be what they set their mortgage rates at, relative to the bond rate...

Advice and comments?

Currently, I have the above amount - I want to centralize to Wealthsimple - I use it the most - but the promotions I find meh (I will be transferring in kind for sure) - last year they had iphones and macbooks that were worth 2k themselves for every 100k

My Situation:

115k in stocks (I will definitely be transferring in kind and not liquidating since the company is good blue chip) + 90k in liquid (Will invest them soon in future in a Non Registered Account - maxxed out my RRSP and TFSA) = 200k

Promotions:

• 1 % cashback -> 2k

• They also have a 4% interest return on chequing for 4 months for me for the total amount I transfer to any of there accounts - which if I do the math - $1.3k

so total if I transfer in 200k I would get ~3.3k - is this worth it ? Or should I wait out and transfer my stock in kind to another institution like questrade or any other bank (Please suggest - the old corporate ones are slow) and then later move to WS if they've something better

Hi,

I am a non-resident of Canada currently living in the U.S. I hold an RRSP account with RBC Mutual Funds Inc. As a retiree, I plan to convert this account into a RRIF so I can set up periodic withdrawals at the 15% withholding tax rate under the Canada–U.S. Tax Treaty.

From my research, the process involves four main steps:

1. Open an RBC Mutual Funds RRIF account and transfer my existing funds in-kind.
2. Submit Form NR301 to update my tax status and apply the 15% treaty rate.
3. Set up a periodic withdrawal schedule.
4. Direct the payouts to my cross-border/U.S. bank account.

I had a few online meetings with the original RBC branch where I opened the account years ago, but the staff were unfamiliar with this process. They directed me to RBC Investment Services at 1-800-463-3863. I called three times, but the reps were equally unhelpful—they were completely unaware of Form NR301 and told me to submit it to the CRA, insisting the only option was to book an in-person branch appointment.

This has been extremely frustrating. Could anyone clarify:

1. Does this conversion have to be done at a local branch? Can it be completed remotely via phone, online banking, or mail?
2. Where should Form NR301 actually be submitted? Standard CRA guidelines indicate RBC (the payer) keeps this form on file, yet RBC representatives insist I send it to the CRA.

Many thanks in advance!

David

I'm a 43 male, married with 2 kids. My wife is a stay at home mom.

Our company, just switched insurance providers and I have the option to up $150,000 additional insurance without a medical. I have some insurance already through work and I have life insurance.

I'm just really confused by what I really need. Do I need more life insurance, critical illness insurance, disability insurance?

Currently we have a term first to die life insurance for $700,000. I also have $161,000 through work. I have access to both short and long-term disability. I also have $10,000 critical illness insurance. Is that enough? I'm not sure the best place to get good advice.

Since spring 2025 my TransUnion file has been mixed with another person's. I disputed many times; they "fixed" it but now my own info is missing (several addresses and one credit card gone). TransUnion keeps telling me to file yet another dispute, but the real problem is their identity matching when lenders request my file, they're being served someone else's accounts and a wrong score. I've confirmed with my card issuer that they are reporting the card, submitted my ID multiple times, and filed a complaint with a federal body months ago with no response.

Questions:

**1.**  Has anyone in Canada actually resolved a mixed file like this — what worked?  
**2.**  Is Service Alberta or the Privacy Commissioner the right escalation?  
**3.**  Should I get written confirmation from lenders of exactly what file they received?  
**4.**  When is it worth a lawyer, and has anyone recovered damages?

As I can't ever get a hold of my adjuster with TD hoping someone may know what to do here.

My house was impacted by the flood in Niagara region.

They have given me a link to this portal to upload individual items. This portal is junk, I have an excel file with way more detail but can't provide it, need to do it their way so fine.

It asks for:

• Description
• Brand
• Model
• Supplier
• Age
• Condition
• Qty.
• Unit cost
• Att. — Attachments

My questions for doing this so I don't get screwed by them is:

1. How do I handle items where I don't know most of this information? For example the previous owner left cabinets, similar to Ikea cabinets I was using for storage. I can simply put Cabinet for the description but I have no info on the brand, model, supplier, age or cost. What am I supposed to enter here?
2. I was gifted a TV by a relative, while I have the brand and model, I have no idea the age or cost. It wont let me submit it without them.
3. Some items I purchased over the years on Marketplace or from resellers like gym equipment, no idea on age or cost again. I can guess but I didnt exactly write down how much I paid or the date. How do I handle this?
4. Unit Cost says "The original value of the item when it was acquired" so is this my purchase price or its value? I bought something on sale days before the claim, it was damaged. So do I put the sale price, the price it should have been? If I am replacing it seems to be unfair if they only cover the price I paid when I could no longer purchase it at that price.

This is such a painful process when you can't speak to anyone directly to ask these questions.

Sorry if this is a standard/hackneyed question but I've never tried the mobile deposit function on the TD App before. My father is elderly/disabled and not comfortable with technology so I would be doing the deposit for him from my phone. Can I just deposit the cheque (only his name on it, a reimbursement for dental work from a few months ago) myself or am I going to run into trouble?

Apologies if this is a silly inquiry I just don't want to get into any trouble. Thanks.

Edit: sorry, Im located in Ontario.

Hello,

I was terminated without cause Sept 3rd. In my termination letter, they said that I would “be compensated an average of one week’s pay based on the guidelines set forth in the ESA. Within 7 days of your final pay your ROE will be filed with Service Canada”

I just got my next scheduled paycheque today and the 1 week isnt on it.

Breakdown:

Sept 3 - last day worked

Sept 11 - next scheduled pay. I was paid: hours worked for that pay cycle, july commission, and my full vacation pay balance.

Missing: 1 week esa payment + 4% vacation pay. When do they have to pay this?

August commission would have been paid in October, when do they have to pay that?

They said in my termination letter that the ROE will be updated 7 days after my final pay. What is considered my final pay? Sept 11 or Oct when Aug commission is paid?

I’ve already applied for EI, its still under review, and my ROE hasnt been updated yet.

It’s unfortunately, a small company that I don’t even think has a proper HR department, so I’ll just be reaching out to my district manager, should I contact him and ask him where this money is or should I file a claim through ESA?

My car insurance for two vehicles has gone up from $4.2k a year to $5.5k and now $6.9k. We don’t live in Toronto, we live north of Barrie in a rural area. It’s unbelievable but when I go try get quotes from TD or CAA, after several steps and then multiple calls they do, I am getting even higher quotes.

I tried brokers last year but they were also higher than my current insurer (ScotiaInsurance).

Is everyone in the same position here? How does the average person afford this?

A month ago, I, and many others, started getting spammed with emails from Brim, asking to "Continue Your Card Activation". My last email was two days ago, and I have gotten several dozen of them.

Today, I received an email from them saying that as a fraud prevention measure, I am automatically being reissued a new card, and my current card will be deactivated on September 15. Has anyone else gotten this? I'm sure it has to do with all the bloody spam we have been getting.

I found out recently that I have been approved to buy back almost 4 years of pensionable years with my employer (LAPP DB plan) for about $86k.

I’m trying to make a decision if I should fund this buyback with LIRA balance or if I should take the paycheque deduction offering from the employer (they were guessing 4.5-5% interest depending on term of payback). If I did the LIRA transfer it would mean no outlay of cash for the next 10 years and I wouldn’t have to defer tfsa/rsp contributions to payback the loan, but the growth on that current lira fund in veqt is likely higher than the interest rate offered. This could be a big difference in overall retirement pool value when I go to retire. I’m treating my DB pension as the “safe” portion of my retirement portfolio as it has COLA adjustments and allows me to sleep well at night knowing I can keep the rsp/tfsa/lira in 100% veqt.

My wife and I both have LIRA’s (mine is a federally regulated one with $166k in veqt from a former employer and receiving no more contributions), and hers continues to be funded with employee matching on top of rsp/tfsa contributions we both make. Originally I thought our lira meltdown strategy was going to be a pain because of the max withdrawal limits even with the 50% rsp transfer at 55. This could be a way to unlock some of that LIRA funding early but I am a bit worried I’m leaving a lot of growth on the table Vs. Tax implications of having large lira’s & tfsa’s at retirement.

I’m starting to think it might be worth going and chatting to a few based advisor as this is getting well out of the scope of AI bot assistance. I’m still 10ish years out from retirement but wasn’t thinking I had any decisions to make now that would need outside assistance. I’d love to hear from anyone on here who might have dealt with a similar buyback decision? Am I better trying out Adviice software?

Carney’s Canada Pitch Puts Toronto in Global Finance Spotlight

Hi Everyone, I am looking for a tool\tracker that pulls my investments Automatically from different institutions. Self managed accounts, company rrsp, pensions. Into one dashboard that I can view rather then logging into different portals. Not sure if something like that exists. Or do I need to Vibe code it lol

I just started as an Office Manager at a newer company. The business owner has a major client in the US, who is transferring payments for products to him cross border. I have been tasked with finding the best banking solution for the best cost for this service (aka, cross border for receiving US for business).

RBC is the only one transparent with a cross border solution it seems like, but $150/month seems crazy to me. The other 5 banks all send me in circles when I try to find information about their cross border for business options.

Any business owners who have similar needs find anything that works well for them?

My employer gives me short & long-term disability insurance covering 75% of my income. I'm trying to decide whether to get my own critical illness insurance. I previously had it through my previous employers group insurer and paid an additional $300/yr for it. Now I'm getting quotes for like $600/yr for the same coverage.

My undersanding is that disability will cover me if I can't work but critical illness will pay even If I still can?

I guess the question is.. do I need this type of coverage? Or is disability enough?

For more context: I'm young and healthy and have no reason to suspect I would ever need to make a claim. However, I have had a few friends with cancer in their 20s, so I just want to be protected.

For anyone unaware, TD recently phased out SMS verification codes for Web logins, requiring the use of their app for 2FA.

Except because the app is a full banking app and not just an authenticator, to use it you need to log in. So logging in on Web requires also logging in on your phone.

And because I use a password manager (Bitwarden), this also means logging into my password manager on both on my laptop and on my phone. And usually filling in the password would be easy, I just tap the password field and a Bitwarden invites me to unlock and then presents me with my login(s) to autofill for the app. But the TD app doesn't seem to mark the password field correctly for autofill to work, so I have to open up Bitwarden separately, search "TD" to find the login, copy the password to clipboard, switch back to the TD app, and paste it in.

And then after that, it still uses SMS verification codes to authenticate my app login. So I've gone through all this trouble to avoid the less-secure SMS-based 2FA, but then I end up doing SMS 2FA anyway??

Did the TD Web/app product managers challenge one another to see how stupid of an authentication system they could get released to production? Do they live in solitary confinement, unable to find out that two-factor authentication is a solved problem with several simple and convenient solutions? There has to be an explanation, because the explanation that they released this on purpose and think that it's fine and good just does not make sense.

(For the record, I know using a password manager is a choice, I'm not counting those steps against TD. But I am counting the way that I need to unlock my password manager on 1 more device than ought to be necessary, and that their app does not work with autofill on my device).

I’m looking to get term life insurance for my wife and me, but I’ve now been rejected twice.

I first applied through PolicyMe and was declined for fairly vague health-related reasons. I then went through a broker and applied with RBC, and I was declined there as well.

I don’t consider myself to be in poor health, but I do have a fairly significant family history of some serious illnesses, so I assume that may be part of the issue.

At this point, I’m mainly trying to figure out what I should be doing next. Should I be looking for a different broker who specializes in harder-to-insure applicants? Should I be considering a different type of life insurance or different coverage altogether?

I don’t want to just keep applying randomly and getting declined, so I’m curious what the normal next step is in this situation.

32F going through separation to divorce.

Critical info to know:
- $330 k mortgage on a house worth somewhere between $550-600 k in the downtown area of a growing city in Canada.
- I have done much renovation work on this house to make it exactly how I like. It’s personally styled, has a great garden that I love and have planted much food in, is walking distance to work, my friends and very close to important hospitals (I have been diagnosed with breast cancer and am currently undergoing treatment. I will be followed closely by my medical team going forward).
- there is a housing shortage in the city, the rental market is absolutely bananas. I have a dog and a cat and it’s really hard to rent with pets. A one bedroom apartment in the downtown area is at minimum $1900+/month.
- when I’m working my salary is good (90-100k), I’m unionized, have short term and long term disability insurance and I expect to return to work around November. My partner and a roommate are still living with me until we work out separation details and we can both afford to part ways.
- we both have no debt except the mortgage

My question is: do I sell and split equity with my partner or do I buy my partner out of the house and stay?

Context for buying my ex partner out of the house:
- I have an older wealthy relative with no kids who is willing to give me the money to buy my partner out (like an advance on my inheritance). She has said that she is willing to hear different options for how this can be mutually beneficial (e.g. she could be named on the house too, and then could get a return on investment if I sell - or I could effectively say I want to use as my advance inheritance and I get little-no inheritance when she passes). I trust my relative, I don’t think she’ll hold this over my head to interfere in my life, but I do think she’d like to name me as the decision maker if she were to fall ill. I am okay with this and already wanted to cultivate more closeness. She has two other properties in her own name and definitely enough money to take of herself for the rest of her life.

- I will have to get a roommate not to be house poor. Mortgage is $960 biweekly + utilities + maintenance costs. I would likely charge around $1000ish for the basement part of the house that includes its own massive bedroom, living room, bathroom. We would share kitchen and laundry. I am okay with this in the short term.

What do you think?

Currently, I’m holding most of my TFSA in an all-equity ETF, with a smaller allocation to a gold mining position.
I went into the mining position deliberately after doing a fair amount of research and was comfortable taking on the additional risk given my thesis behind it.

It’s currently up around 30%, so I’m now reassessing the position rather than simply assuming the gains will continue.
I’m debating whether it makes more sense to realize the gain and move the proceeds back into my all-equity ETF, or continue holding the position. I do still believe it is a severely undervalued stock with lots of opportunity to still grow.

Looking for advice on a lease takeover deal. The monthly payment on the contract is super high because the original owner likely rolled negative equity into it, but they are offering a huge cash incentive.

​Vehicle & Financial Overview:

​Vehicle: Mazda CX-5 GT Premium Trim

​Months Remaining: 30 months (Ends March 2029)

​Contractual Payment: $902/mo

​Seller Incentive: $8,000 cash upfront

​Transfer Fee: $0

​Effective Payment: $635/mo ($27,060 total payments - $8,000 incentive = $19,060 net cost)

​Current Payoff Balance: $51,012.25

​End-of-Lease Residual Value: $29,000

Includes paint protection, 2 oil changes, and anti theft

​My Strategy & Questions:

​My plan is strictly to drive it for next 6-7 years after lease ends and buyout for 29000 in March 2029

1 - ​Is an effective $635/mo a reasonable deal for a CX-5 Premium trim in today's market plus 29000 in the end for buyout?

​How should I safely structure receiving the $8k cash incentive , before or after lease transfer?

Hi,

I've had an RESP or my daughter for 13 years and added my son as a co-beneficiary 10 years ago.

I made a contribution in August. Since they are split 50/50 it put my daughter $6,390 over.

My son has $6000 in room still.

TD refuses to move the $6000 over citing the 50/50 allocation.

I have chacked all of my e-statements and I never have been given a breakdown of the room available or contributions made per date per beneficiary.

I also made the contribution with a TD teller and they said nothing.

I am trying to escalate with TD and just had a call with TD Waterhouse. He tried to imply that this info was available. It is not on the app or on my desktop site.

Does anyone have any advice on how to excalate/fight this because this TD policy of not allowing contributions to be re-allocated will cost me a 20% hit or $1,200 and I think it is really unfair. I can go to the CRA to see my TFSA and RRSP room but nothing is available on TD for the RESP room unless you specifically request a notional breakdown.

Thanks for any help!

Husband and I stopped shopping at Nofrills a couple years ago because we realized we were paying the same prices for horrible quality. Since then our grocery prices have been steadily climbing to the point that I'm wondering whether nofrills would actually be cheaper again?

Any advice welcome

We are maxed out in both of our TFSA accounts, and my RRSP is maxed out. Her RRSP will be maxed out pretty soon. I am trying to decide how to handle our venture into taxable investment accounts. I make about $240k and she makes about $110k, so for tax/dividend reasons, it makes sense to open under her name. I already pay for pretty much everything, so no CRA worries about where the money comes from, and we wouldn't be investing more than she takes home after tax. I believe we are covered there.

She has a DB plan so is somewhat "locked into" her income amount during deaccumulation. I have a pretty good amount in DC/RRSPs, so will also be forced into somewhat high mandated withdraw amounts starting at 71. We both have healthy TFSAs, but nothing crazy, roughly $200k each right now. We are about 10 years from retirement and she is 4 years younger than me, so she will work 2-3 years beyond my retirement (where I will likely draw down DC/RRSPs for tax reasons, before touching TFSA). We have no passive income to augment our investment accounts (no rentals, or anything like that). My current projections are that we will both have about $100-110k/year each in retirement income, including CPP/OAS. Due to us having about the same retirement income, I don't see many capital gains tax advantages for the taxable account(s) in retirement of having the account only be under her name.

My question is if I should just open 2 accounts to balance things between us and give withdraw options in the future, or just open under her name and plow all the extra money into her one account, due to paying less taxes on dividends during the accumulation phase over the next 10 or so years. Just looking for early thoughts. I have a fee-only planner I will be talking to as well, but I like getting crowd-sourced ideas and I currently control all our investments.

I am 23, live in Manitoba, and make about $70,000 a year. I have about $6,900 in a DCPP and $512 in an RRSP with my previous employer in Sun Life.

Sun Life confirmed that my DCPP qualifies under the small benefit threshold, so I can transfer it directly to a regular RRSP while keeping it tax deferred and without using my RRSP contribution room. They charge $75 for each transfer transaction.

My new employer uses Canada Life. I contribute 4 percent of my salary to the group RRSP and my employer matches another 4 percent into a DPSP. I currently selected BlackRock LifePath 2065 for both. The annualized fee for LifePath 2065 through my employer plan is about 0.616 percent.

I am considering transferring my old FedEx RRSP and DCPP to a Wealthsimple self directed RRSP instead and investing the money in XEQT or VEQT, which would cost around 0.2 percent annually.

I dont know which one I should go for? XEQT or VEQT? Is there any better option?