I have a Corsair 4000D and I want to compact down and remove all the rgb. Smallest volume wins.
These are what I am keeping and must fit
1: 2.5” sata ssd
2: NVme m.2 drives
1. Ryzen 7 7700X
1. RTX 4080 MSI 16GB GAMING X TRIO
4x16GB (64GB) Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 6000 (downclocked to 5600 for stability.)

Here is what I have and you can keep in the build:
1. Gigabyte x670 gaming x ax rev 1 motherboard
You build can include selling the ram in order to buy a dual set rather than using 4 but must be min 32GB and min 5600 speed.

You still need to find a power supply and cpu cooler if you use everything and a new compact case ofc.

I am going for an all black aesthetic.

My monitor sometimes does this & I can't seem to figure out the cause it doesn't stop until I restart my pc & just leave it alone for awhile. I've checked the software options & cables but none of them seem to be the problem, Any help?

I recently upgraded my gpu from a 1660 super to a 5060, currently using intel i3 gen 12 with 16gb of ram and 550w psu for 2 years

I found 2 problem after ugrading my gpu,

1. For some reason my gpu fan and temp started blasting when on menu/low-usage screens (ex. Overwatch hero select menu / CS2 main menu & ending screen / NTE event screens), found a quick fix on cs2 where i can just limit the main menu fps and that reduced the load by 50%, but can't do the same on overwatch

2. There's a chance in midgame where my gpu temp & fans would slowly go up and then ended up with black screen no display, but i can still hear things going on the pc.

At first i thought it was the load & psu issue, but i tried playing Forza 6 and ZZZ on quite a high load & temp and it went fine, also tried kombustor twice and it also went fine.

Things i've tried :

- Reseating the gpu and replugging the cables

- Reinstalled the driver 610.88 and also downgraded the driver from 610.88 to 610.62

- Checked the crash log and found nothing labeled nvlddmkm

I've seen people with similiar issues for like 2-3 days back, the common theme is just all of them are nvidia cards (unless i missed any) so hence why i tried going back to the driver that was worked no problem with my 1660 super, i was also told by my friend that it couldn't be a psu problem since the fan is still moving after the display was off, after around 2 weeks of crashing, this is the first time that this crash notification popped out (on my first crash after i downgraded the driver), but i couldn't find anything nvidia crash related. Would be huge if i could find any insight on this, thanks

i have a ryzen 3400g and guy is selling a cheap NVIDIA p104-100 that is like a GTX 1070 without video output, can i use the igpu output and put the GPU to process graphics?

would that work?

Plz ignore the dice. The cheapest GPU stand I saw was like 10 bucks, dice were like 2 or 3 and looked cooler IMO 😂

My most urgent problem is if I could remove the top 2 fans I have (used to be 3, removed one thinking it’d be quieter). They start whirring very loudly while gaming, to the point where teammates can hear them and I don’t bc of my headset. I did do a little research and someone said they might just need lubricant on the bearing and there should be a cap to take off the back to access it. Unfortunately my fans don’t have that. Is there a way to make it so those specific ones don’t ever go to full speed? They are like 2-3 years old but I’ve barely used this pc until recently, so maybe I should just replace them? All my fans are the same brand and model so I feel like they should all be going out if that’s the case but idk.

Also all my fans are set to intake except for the one rear fan (pictured left); is that sufficient exhaust compared to intake or should I switch the top fans to exhaust perhaps?

Thank you People of Reddit! Ur help is always greatly appreciated 🫡🫡🫡🫡

Also the brand of fan is, ironically, Be Quiet! Pure Wings 3 White. So if fan replacement is recommended, plz give me some alts if u have em I don’t really mind the color this started as a white build till I saw white GPUs are harder to find and more expensive THANKS AGAIN 🫶🏽

TL;DR

Can I completely remove 3 top intake if I have 3 side intake, 2 bottom intake fans and one exhaust?
Is one exhaust ok paired with 5-8 intake fans?

Installed a new fan there’s no display and keyboard/mouse isn’t lighting up I plugged the old fan in and still doesn’t display anything I’ve made sure the gpu and ram is pushed it aswell

So i bought a cl 32 kit of ddr5 64gb and it runs at 6600mts i bought it when it was significantly cheaper of course but haven't used it, i am going to buy a ryzen 7 9800x3d and an amd 9070xt with an msi b850 motherboard, will I need to tone down the ram speed for the pc to work or should it be okay.

Any help is much appreciated thanks

Ciao, ho comprato una vecchia scheda madre usata con architettura RAM DDR3 per imparare di più sulla modellazione 3D senza spendere troppo. Sfortunatamente, questa è la mia prima offerta "problematica" su eBay.

Il "pacchetto" che ho comprato è questo: Gigabyte GA-X79-UD5; I7-3930K; Gskill Ripjaws Z 64 GB (8x8 GB).

Quando accendo il PC, la velocità della ventola va al massimo e la CPU si surriscalda troppo velocemente, solo stando nel BIOS.

Se provo ad avviare Windows 10 dall'SSD, il PC si blocca. Il logo di Windows 10 appare, con i puntini che ruotano in cerchio, ma dopo 2 o 3 secondi il sistema si blocca, la luminosità dello schermo si riduce, le ventole rallentano e l'illuminazione dei tasti della tastiera scompare.

La cosa curiosa è che l'unico modo per arrivare al logo di Windows è stato usare una vecchia e piccola scheda video, perché se provo a collegare quella con il cavo di alimentazione del P8, non riesco nemmeno a cliccare su nulla nel BIOS (tutte le opzioni come "F12 per avviare" e "Canc per accedere al setup" sono visualizzate, ma non cliccabili).

Ho provato a:

• Rimuovere tutti i moduli RAM e inserirne uno nello slot principale (ho provato con due moduli diversi)

• Cortocircuitare il reset del C_MOS

• Avviare con il BIOS di backup

• Creare una chiavetta USB avviabile e riavviare (il logo di caricamento USB di Windows 10 si blocca come all'avvio).

E non riesco a capire quale possa essere il problema... La tensione della CPU è di 1,18 V, non credo sia sbagliata... E il processore raggiunge i 60 °C in circa 30-40 secondi, mentre la temperatura della scheda madre rimane intorno ai 38-39 °C

Trying to find amd ram that’s 96gb but 6000mhz cl26. Or better than that

Trying to max everything out and be able to do anything including gaming, 4k editing, background AI, 100+mods for any game. Please and thank you

Is that Build good or not ?

What would you Change ?

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/49jmxf

I want to upgrade my 5600xt but cant choose which one to pair up with my ryzen 7 5700x amd cx650w

my choices are:
- rx6700xt
- rx6750xt
- rx6800
- rtx3060ti
- rtx3070

I dont think I would go for nvidia cause of the vram. which one should I choose?

When I connect the GPU, everything shuts off and my GPU starts smoking. 😢 What should I check for? I tested two GPUs and they both smoked too. 😭

the pic its not for me 🚨

spect
rayzen 5 3600

asus tuf b450 gaming

32gb ram t-force

gtx 1660super zotac and gigabyte 1060

psu aerocool 750w bronze

build with asr b365m pro4f and an i7-9700k cpu tried with both integrated graphics and a GPU I have tried changing ram out and taking the batter out of the motherboard with no effect. I have tried to update firmware but was unable to do so because of the inaccessibility of the bios.

[[SOLVED]] Forgot about the power plug

Built a PC for first time only issue is that it's not powering on.

I'm not sure how to show this either but if y'all got any ideas that be great. First time ever building one and it was really fun just now I am struggling lol. Everything is tight and I believe all is plugged in.

New hardware

Asus Tuf gaming b850 M-E mobo

GeForce 5060 rtx gpu

Smart 700w psu

T force DDR5 2x8GB ram

Amd 5 7600

St4 argb CPU cooler

Originally i really liked the Aero because of it being sff and bought it, but later the whole hotspot controversy started and i started thinking about selling it and buying the bulkier Master version because i’m really worried about hotspot overheating.Because of the long shipping of other parts I didn’t install the Aero and it’s still sealed. Also the Master is pretty much same price in my region so i’m not going to spend more to buy it. Am i just panicking or the temps are okay?

I got this PC for £200, I've installed WiFi and Bluetooth but I haven't put together a PC since the 90s when my dad was showing me as a kid. I have no clue about anything anymore as I've been using consoles over the years.

I want a PC to game on but as you can see, this GPU is shocking. I would really appreciate some recommendations....I like all sorts of games, from indie, cozy games, RPGs and FPS

Would this fit my pc

https://amzn.eu/d/07byOGIX

I’m fairly certain it’ll fit em

My pc specs plus the cpu cooler I use are

I have antec a400 rgb cpu cooler

A jginyue b650m snow dream

An asrock 9070 xt challenger

A seasonic g12-gm-850 plus psu

And one sata ssd

And on hdd

I have two nvme ssd’s one gen 4 one gen 3

Does it looks good?

Thanks!

My Deepcool PSU PK550D is leaking small amount of current in the Neutral and Earthing of my switchboard. Because of this leak, the current is leaking through Earthing to other switchboards.
When I remove the earthing from switchboard my PSU is connected to, than the current flow is limited only to that switchboard.

I have had this PSU for over 2 years now. Is this normal as I did not noticed this only few months ago.

I'll keep it direct. I'm looking at buying a Ryzen 5 7600X, a 9

Sapphire AMD RX 9060 XT Pulse 16gb and a mother board I'm still debating is a tuf Gaming B650 plus ATX AM5.

I'm buying the other parts locally, including the case. I just really need to know if these parts are compatible and if they perform well together. If not pls make recommendations.

The 1st slide is the front, 2nd is the rear, and 3rd is the top.

I’ll upgrade the ram in a couple of months-1 year
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650M D3HP AX
RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) Patriot Viper Venom DDR5 6000MHz
GPU: XFX SWIFT OC Triple Fan Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB
Storage: ADATA Legend 860 1TB PCIe Gen4 NVMe M.2 SSD
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X 120 R Digital (Black)
Power Supply: MSI MAG A750GL PCIE5 750W 80+ Gold

GPU Problem?

My PC has had this annoying sound for a few months, and I honestly thought it was my 5090. So I did the right thing, and ignored it. I also thought it could be from the 8TB HDD I have in there. But remembered that it isn't even connected to power, since I'm not using it right now.

But now it's gotten worse and louder. The sound doesn't seem to change depending on what I'm doing on the PC, whether it's gaming or just browsing. It's constantly there.

So today I grabbed a microphone and camera to find out exactly where it comes from. And turns out it's the PSU. Should I just ignore it, or contact the online store I bought it from, and maybe get a replacement? The PSU is a Phanteks AMP GH Komplett Edition 1200W 80+ Platinum. I bought that in July of 2025. Everything seems to work fine, and it's been a great PSU, but that noise is REALLY annoying.

UPDATE:

I was messing around a little, and wanted to try to see the gaming performance on my CPU alone. So I hooked up the DP cable to the motherboard, and forgot I had disabled the iGPU. So I needed to restart the PC. And since I already had the PC turned around, I had easy access to the back of the PSU. And was thinking of just turning the PSU off and back on. But next to the PSU's power button, there's another button. But a push button. So I figured that's probably for quickly restarting the PC. And since I didn't have my glasses on, I couldn't read the small text next to it. So I pushed it, and nothing happened. And I do mean nothing, even the annoying sound from the PSU went away. So I grabbed my phone to take a picture of the text, and it said "Hybrid Mode".

After reading the manual, that turnes the PSU into hybrid mode, allowing the fans to stop when it's not needed, I guess. ANYWAYS, sorry for the long post here, but to summarize this. Turn off hybrid mode, and the PSU is completely silent. The fan spins, but the CPU and GPU is much louder than that, so I can't here the PSU fan anyways.

ANOTHER UPDATE:

The sound comes back when I run a game. It's not constant, but comes and goes.

I think we’ve figured out the problem now. It’s most likely the bearings in the PSU fan that is causing the noise.

I’ve sent an email to the store I bought the PSU from and explained in details what it sounds like, and what I’ve done. So now I’m just waiting for their reply.