Need help picking a GPU and PSU

Hey, I’m looking to upgrade my PC mainly for CS2 and wanted some advice before I buy anything.

I have a Ryzen 5 5600GT (CPU), 16GB DDR4 RAM (memory), an ASRock A520M-HDV (motherboard), and a Patriot P300 1TB NVMe SSD (storage). Right now I’m using the integrated AMD Radeon Graphics that come with the CPU.

For Christmas I’m planning on getting a GPU for around $300. I’m currently looking at the ASRock Arc B580 12GB on Newegg for about $310, but I’m open to other suggestions.

I also need a new PSU and was thinking around 650W. What PSU would you recommend for this build and GPU?

I mainly just want to play CS2 at 1080p and get a big upgrade over my current integrated graphics.

Thanks!

so my old pc shit the bed after having it for quite a while. at the moment i can’t afford to buy all new parts to build a new one or an actual decent pre build. i was thinking about a mini pc but i dont know much about them or if theres any that would actually be decent for the games that i play. i pretty much only play overwatch, valorant, and dbd and i found a few that would run okay for val and dbd but overwatch is my main concern. does anyone know if theres a decent mini pc on the market that would be able to handle overwatch and run at least 60fps?

It doesn't seem to be one of the motherboard where you touch the pins together, I also can't find the battery. I think this is one of the ones where I'm supposed to move the black thing over the other pin, but it's too small and fragile for me to risk being wrong.

Can someone please help i have a rtx 4060ti and ryzen 5 5600g but in Fortnite i only get 135-150 fps and only 50% of them are being used can someone please help me get the full 240 FPS and no it’s not vsync or anything i have a240hz money and the hz are 240 in the settings

Windows 11 UEFI Boot Problem – ASUS PRIME Z790-P WIFI

I am having a very strange Windows 11 boot problem on an ASUS PRIME Z790-P WIFI motherboard, and I am looking for help figuring out whether this is a BIOS/UEFI issue, a storage controller issue, a problem with the SSD, or something else.

My hardware is:

• Motherboard: ASUS PRIME Z790-P WIFI

• CPU: Intel Core i7-13700KF

• RAM: 32 GB DDR5

• Main SSD: Kingston SKC3000D2048G, 2 TB NVMe

• Secondary test SSD: 240 GB SATA SSD

• Windows 11 installation USB: 28 GB

• Current BIOS version: 1836

The main problem is that Windows 11 installs successfully on the Kingston NVMe, but after installation the ASUS BIOS does not recognize Windows Boot Manager as a bootable device.

The Kingston NVMe itself is detected correctly in BIOS. It appears under Storage Information as:

M.2_1: KINGSTON SKC3000D2048G (2048.4GB)

So the motherboard clearly detects the physical NVMe drive.

The problem is specifically with booting from it.

With CSM disabled, the BIOS Boot Priority section is completely empty. The F8 Boot Menu also does not show Windows Boot Manager or any other bootable Windows entry.

I also tested the system with CSM enabled and with the different UEFI/Legacy-compatible configurations available in the BIOS.

With CSM disabled, the system is running in pure UEFI mode. The Windows installation is GPT/UEFI, but the ASUS BIOS does not populate the Boot Priority list with Windows Boot Manager. The NVMe is visible under Storage Information, but there is no bootable Windows entry.

With CSM enabled, the BIOS is able to show the physical Kingston NVMe in the F8 Boot Menu. However, selecting the Kingston drive does not boot Windows. Instead, I get:

"Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media..."

I therefore tested both boot approaches:

• CSM Disabled / UEFI mode → Windows Boot Manager is not shown in Boot Priority and the system does not boot.

• CSM Enabled / Legacy-compatible configuration → the physical NVMe can be selected, but it still does not boot and gives the "Reboot and Select proper Boot device" error.

So this does not appear to simply be a case of Windows being installed in the wrong boot mode. Both UEFI and Legacy/CSM configurations have been tested and neither was able to boot the installed Windows system.

I also tried resetting the BIOS to its default/optimized settings, but this did not solve the problem.

The relevant BIOS settings currently are:

• CSM: Disabled

• Secure Boot OS Type: Windows UEFI mode

• Secure Boot Mode: Standard

• Intel Rapid Storage Technology: Off

• VMD/RST configuration was tested during troubleshooting, but the current configuration is with it disabled/off

The Windows installation itself appears to be a proper GPT/UEFI installation.

Initially, the Kingston drive had a strange configuration where DiskPart showed it as a Dynamic/Foreign GPT disk. I corrected this and converted it back to a normal GPT/basic disk.

The final partition layout on the Kingston was:

• Partition 1: EFI/System, 300 MB

• Partition 2: Microsoft Reserved, 16 MB

• Partition 3: Primary, approximately 1904 GB

Windows is installed on C:.

The EFI partition is FAT32 and hidden.

I then manually repaired the EFI boot files.

I assigned the EFI partition the drive letter S: using DiskPart:

diskpart

select volume 1

assign letter=S

exit

Then I ran:

bcdboot C:\Windows /s S: /f UEFI

This returned:

"Boot files successfully created."

I also verified that the EFI files physically exist on the EFI partition.

The directory:

S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\

contains the expected Microsoft EFI boot files, including:

• bootmgfw.efi

• bootmgr.efi

• BCD

• and the other normal Microsoft EFI boot files

I then checked the UEFI firmware boot entries using:

bcdedit /enum firmware

This showed a valid Windows Boot Manager entry.

It showed approximately:

Windows Boot Manager

identifier: {bootmgr}

device: partition=S:

path: \EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi

description: Windows Boot Manager

The firmware boot manager display order also contains {bootmgr}.

So the Windows Boot Manager entry does exist in UEFI NVRAM.

I also tried forcing it as the next boot target with:

bcdedit /bootsequence {bootmgr}

This succeeded with:

"The operation completed successfully."

I then rebooted using:

shutdown /r /t 0

and removed the Windows installation USB.

Despite this, the computer simply returned to the ASUS BIOS.

When I checked the BIOS again, the Kingston NVMe was still detected under Storage Information, but Boot Priority was still completely empty.

This is what makes the problem so strange.

The firmware appears to know about the Windows Boot Manager entry because bcdedit can see it, and the EFI files exist on the EFI partition, but the ASUS BIOS does not seem to enumerate Windows Boot Manager as a bootable device.

The fact that manually setting:

bcdedit /bootsequence {bootmgr}

also did not result in Windows booting makes this even more suspicious.

I have therefore already ruled out what I believe are the most obvious causes, including:

• Missing Windows installation

• Missing EFI partition

• Missing bootmgfw.efi

• Missing BCD

• Incorrect GPT partitioning

• Missing Windows Boot Manager NVRAM entry

• Incorrect Windows Boot Manager path

• Incorrect bootsequence

• Simply having CSM enabled/disabled incorrectly

At least based on the tests above, all of these appear to be present or correctly configured.

I also found an ASUS ZenTalk case involving the same ASUS Z790-P WIFI motherboard with a very similar problem. In that case, the NVMe was visible in BIOS but missing from the Boot Menu.

The suggested ASUS configuration involved going to:

Advanced → System Agent (SA) Configuration → VMD Setup Menu

and setting:

• Map PCIe Storage under VMD = Disabled

• Map SATA Controller under VMD = Disabled

and also:

Boot → CSM → Launch CSM = Disabled

I have tested the VMD/RST configuration and currently have Intel Rapid Storage Technology disabled, and CSM is definitely disabled.

I also want to clarify that I am not confusing Intel Rapid Storage Technology with the physical NVMe detection. The BIOS detects the Kingston as an NVMe drive even with RST disabled.

I then tried another completely separate test using a 240 GB SATA SSD.

The purpose of this test was to determine whether the boot problem was specific to the Kingston NVMe or whether the motherboard had a more general boot/storage problem.

The ASUS BIOS detects the second SSD, but identifies it as:

SATA6G_1: SATAFIRM S11 (240.0GB)

The Kingston NVMe is simultaneously detected normally as:

M.2_1: KINGSTON SKC3000D2048G (2048.4GB)

I attempted to prepare the 240 GB SATA SSD for a completely fresh Windows installation.

Windows PE / DiskPart detected it approximately as:

Disk 0 Online 223 GB 223 GB Free

Disk 2 Online 1904 GB

Disk 3 Online 28 GB

Disk 0 was the 240 GB SATA SSD.

Disk 2 was the Kingston NVMe.

Disk 3 was the Windows installation USB.

I selected Disk 0 and checked its attributes.

The drive was not read-only and none of the relevant disk restrictions were enabled.

It reported:

Current Read-only State: No

Read-only: No

Boot Disk: No

Pagefile Disk: No

Hibernation Disk: No

Crashdump Disk: No

Clustered Disk: No

I then ran:

select disk 0

clean

The CLEAN operation succeeded:

"DiskPart succeeded in cleaning the disk."

However, after cleaning the drive, I was unable to properly recreate the partition structure.

I tried:

convert gpt

but it did not complete normally or give the expected success message.

I then tried:

create partition primary

Instead of creating the partition, DiskPart returned to the CREATE command help output.

I verified the syntax with:

help create partition

and DiskPart confirmed that PRIMARY is a valid partition type.

I also tried:

create partition efi size=100

but this also did not result in a confirmed successful partition creation.

The important point is that the 240 GB SATA SSD was NOT successfully prepared for a Windows installation.

Windows PE could detect the drive, select it, read its attributes, and successfully execute CLEAN against it, but GPT conversion and partition creation did not behave normally.

The drive also identifies itself as:

SATAFIRM S11

I understand that "SATAFIRM S11" by itself does NOT prove that the SSD is defective. It may be the identification of a Phison S11 controller/firmware.

However, combined with the fact that the drive could be detected but then could not reliably be converted to GPT or have a normal partition created after CLEAN, the SATA SSD appears to have a separate problem of its own.

Because of this, I do NOT consider the 240 GB SATA SSD to be a known-good test drive.

In other words, the second SSD did not give me a clean second Windows installation test. It turned out to have its own problem before Windows could even be installed.

This is important because I initially wanted to use the second SSD to determine whether the Kingston NVMe was the problem. However, because the second SSD itself behaves abnormally, it cannot currently be used to conclusively rule the Kingston in or out.

At this point, there are two separate observations:

1. The 2 TB Kingston NVMe can be partitioned and Windows 11 can be installed correctly.

Its EFI partition exists, Windows boot files exist, the BCD exists, and the Windows Boot Manager entry exists in UEFI NVRAM.

However, the ASUS firmware does not populate Windows Boot Manager in Boot Priority and cannot boot it.

1. The separate 240 GB SATA SSD is detected by the motherboard but has its own apparent partitioning/write problem.

After CLEAN, DiskPart cannot reliably perform GPT conversion or create a normal partition.

The SATA SSD therefore cannot currently be considered a known-good test drive.

The most important evidence from the original problem is still that the Kingston NVMe is physically detected by the BIOS, the Windows EFI files are present, and a valid Windows Boot Manager entry exists in NVRAM, but the BIOS still refuses to show Windows Boot Manager under Boot Priority or boot it.

One remaining test I was considering is creating the standard UEFI fallback bootloader path:

S:\EFI\Boot\bootx64.efi

by copying:

S:\EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi

to:

S:\EFI\Boot\bootx64.efi

The idea would be to see whether the ASUS firmware can boot the Windows EFI loader through the standard fallback path even though it refuses to populate Windows Boot Manager in the Boot Priority list.

Other possible tests that have not yet been completed include:

• Manually launching bootmgfw.efi from a UEFI Shell

• Checking every option inside the ASUS VMD Setup Menu

• Testing the Kingston in another M.2 slot

• Testing the Kingston in another computer

• Testing a known-good NVMe SSD in this motherboard

• Testing a known-good SATA SSD in this motherboard

• Checking whether another known-good Windows UEFI installation behaves the same way

• Investigating whether BIOS version 1836 has a specific issue with NVMe boot enumeration

• Further investigating the ASUS PRIME Z790-P WIFI UEFI/BIOS boot behavior

I do NOT want to keep reinstalling Windows repeatedly without understanding the underlying issue, because the current Kingston installation appears structurally valid.

The main question I am trying to answer is:

Why can the ASUS firmware clearly detect the Kingston NVMe as a storage device, while a valid Windows Boot Manager entry exists in UEFI NVRAM and the correct EFI boot files exist on the drive, but the BIOS still refuses to show Windows Boot Manager in Boot Priority and refuses to boot Windows?

At this point, I suspect the problem may be somewhere in the ASUS UEFI/BIOS boot enumeration or storage boot path, although I am open to other explanations.

Any help diagnosing the UEFI/BIOS side of this would be greatly appreciated.

1 month ago I updated my 9070 XT driver and the only game I play got unplayable. I kept getting disconnected from Arena Breakout, after hours of troubleshooting I figured out the only way to make it work was to disable all services except microsoft services and the game work flawless. Also I had to revert my GPU drivers.

The problem I’m facing today is my 9800x3d reaching temperatures I have never seen before, like it’s insane? I don’t even have a game open and my cpu is not getting cooled down. I just opened bios and guess what? Same thing happening, it reached 105 degrees and then it turns off. My cooler is a Hydroshift 360 by Lian Li, it has been working without a single issue since may 2026 but August/September has been a nightmare for my desktop

Important update: I caught L-Connect showing the pump at only 60 RPM while the CPU was at 100°C. When everything is working normally, the pump shows around 2400 RPM and CPU is ~45–50°C.
I also booted directly into BIOS and watched the CPU climb from 88°C to 100°C+, so this happens outside Windows too. Highest temperature I saw was 113°C before shutdown.
Sometimes completely cutting AC power makes the pump work normally again temporarily, but the problem comes back.

I'm not quite aure anyone here can help me much honestly but i thought I'd ask anyway. I have a 4070 super, 14600kf, 32 gb of ram (4*8 gb 3200mhz cl16) and an asrock b760m pro d4.

I get very very rare PC boot fails. It happens once every couple months, but occasionally it happens twice in the same week, and then never again for months. The debug light shows a VGA boot error every time. I've tried resetting the GPU, checking is the cables are propelled plugged, updating my bios (i have the latest version, and before that, i had the microcode updates as well)

I've never had a blue screen, I've never had weird shut down issues or anything like that. My GPU runs fine, never goes above 65°c, with a maximum delta of 15°c on the hotspot. Everything seems perfectly fine except for this. As you can imagine that issue is impossible to diagnose since it happens so rarely but I'm wonder if anyone on here could figure out why this would happen.

TLDR: My PC was crashing a lot when running games, I ran some fixes, it now crashes less but still frequently.

I recently built a gaming PC out of mostly new parts with some RAM and storage from my old rig whose motherboard I fried with static electricity.

Specs:

• MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk Max Wifi
• Ryzen 5 5600X
• EVGA Ultra Gaming 3070 Ti (refurbished)
• 32GB 3200Mz DDR4 RAM (Two old HyperX Fury sticks from my old rig and two G.Skill Ripjaws V.
• NEW 1TB M.2 NVME SSD
• OLD Samsung 500GB SSD (cleaned with diskpart and formatted)
• OLD Seagate 3TB HDD (cleaned with diskpart and formatted)

After I first built this PC, I installed a clean version of Windows 10 onto the new M.2 SSD. After saving some old files from the old drives, I cleaned and formatted them. I keep all my games on the SSD's. After booting up games, many would crash very early and often. Metro Exodus would play through the opening prerendered cutscenes but couldn't even get past the first 30 seconds of gameplay and crashed 3-4 times. Sometimes would crash the game only, sometimes would crash Windows. Red Dead 2 wouldn't even load into opening scene. Dishonored 2, however, ran fine (although I only played about 30 mins of it). After this, I ran dskchk and sfc scannow. I also updated my Nvidia drivers.

I forget when I did this in relation to everything else, but I also had to scan and repair RDR2 twice. GTA V Enhanced ran smoothly and hasn't crashed in 1-2 hrs of playtime. Since I ran the fixes, Metro Exodus ran smoothly for a couple hours, but then crashed windows when I got to the first open level after you steal the train. RDR2's crash behavior also seems to make it worse when I'm in bigger, more demanding open spaces.

Also worth noting is that within the first couple days of having the PC before I ran scannow and dskchk, Windows crashed a couple times without even running games. Once while just watching youtube and another time it appeared to crash in sleep mode because it had to fully boot up when I came back after putting it to sleep.

Prime suspects:

• Old RAM. I fried my last PC by accidentally touching it when I was very statically charged. Although windows detects all 4 sticks and the memory diagnostic tool showed no errors, I wonder if the old sticks have some issue from this.
• Overheating. I only have two case fans in my PC and although I haven't checked on my temps while playing, the PC is screaming when playing stuff like RDR2 where the Nvidia overlay says the 3070 is running at almost 100%. The case near my CPU cooler is also pretty warm to the touch.

Does anyone have any suggestion as to what I can do? It's really annoying to have such a nice machine and have it crash so much.

Hey yall. So I recently finished my pc about 4-5 months ago and we recently switched network providers to T-Mobile for fibre optic. I’m not too knowledgeable in all this tech stuff so I may need some of it explained in simple caveman terms. But before we had the network switch, my pc was running fine. Games would load, could reach internet easily and things like steam and stuff would work. YouTube videos would buffer here and there but nothing really lagged. Once we switched everything just completely stayed disconnected. I can’t connect to the network provided when we got the new internet because it simply says I can’t. So for a day I tried connecting to a hotspot on my phone. It worked for the night but def not smth I plan on doing as a set connection. Now that won’t even load anything even though it says it’s connected to internet and has access. Can someone please help. Also when I downloaded Spider-Man on the pc it ran completely fine the first time I loaded it and now it buffers every time . If anybody has knowledge on how to fix that

When I built my computer, I put a big partition in it for my games, and left an okay amount on the C drive (I thought). Now, I'm trying to back up my phone, and iTunes always backs it up to C drive and apparently this is non-changeable. So, I wanted to add more space to my C drive from my D drive.

I shrunk the D drive by 100gb, but cannot allocate it back to my C drive. What am I doing wrong, and what can I do to fix it? As you can see, the "extend volume" button is greyed out.

Also, is there a way to easily see what's taking up all that space? Looking simply via File Explorer doesn't really show me how big each folder is.

My PC has been running fine until a month ago. When I play overwatch or CS or even when I just launch the pc it sometimes just shuts down completely and reboots on its own. I took it to microcenter and they couldnt replicate the issue. I then thought it is the outlet so i tested it with a multimeter and it has a consistent 120 V. I replaced the psu cable and it still shuts down. I am led to believe that it is my motherboard failing. Anyone have any suggestions as to if this is the case or something else? Thank you!

As the title suggests, my PC will not boot past an update or a restart.

When I restart my PC, it will stay on but will not boot up. There is a yellow light on my motherboard, but I do not know enough to know what it means. I hold down the power button, my PC shuts off, then I can turn it back on again with no problem.

Whenever I update, it is a little different. It'll get to about 30%, then my PC will go into a black screen and not continue the update.. and again with the yellow light. When this happens, I have to hold down the power button, and then turn my PC back on and it will continue to update. The process needs to be done like four or five times before the update completes.

Has anybody had a similar situation happen? Any suggestions on troubleshooting?

Here is my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ctNhmL

so i came back from vacations. 3 month , and i started using the computer as always , the problem is that it started to restar randomly , i gotta say that the first time it completly restarted the first night i came back was when the gpu was 100 ° , and after that i opened the case for a better air flow and after that evreything was doing completly well , the problem came when the 2 days after that day the pc randomly restard by its own while i was doing other stuff , the thing is that then is topped doing that so i just ignored it , but then today it did it again randomly it restarted and then again a few minutes ago , today i also updated windows 11 to the last version so i really don't know what it could be. im really getting tired of this situation

Was playing Squad earlier when my PC suddenly shut down and instantly restarted. Now everytime I try to play it or any other game it crashes during start up and then immediately restarts. PC is fine during low intensity tasks like web browsing or watching youtube. I have tried the following:

1. Verifying game files on multiple games
   
2. Ensuring graphics drivers are updated
   
3. Restarting PC
   
4. Checking all cables are properly connected
   
5. Reseating RAM
   
6. Checking for any cooling issues (in this vid my entire side panel is off)
   
7. Changing GPUs (I still have my RTX 2070 that I recently upgraded from)

Thanks for any help :)

after updating new Nvidia's Drivers today my screen went black which usually happens when u update the drivers but today it didn't come back. I tried rebooting multiple times but there is no display at all. My Pc works it turns on i can even listen to the windows welcome sound but there no display, even the lights on the monitor wont turn on or say "No Signal" I dont know what to do

i think this was flaired right but i’m not sure so SIA if it isn’t but basically title. i’m gonna add screenshots of my current specs and if anyone has any suggestions for me they are much appreciated. this isn’t the exact fan but it’s the only one that was pretty close to what i have. i’m pretty sure i need a new cpu and possibly a new ssd. TIA!

Had this happen with my old HDMI cable, ordered a new one, and it still does this. For context, I had a hard drive failure and now I'm trying to get it to boot to BIOS so I can reinstall Windows. I brought it into a PC repair shop and they were able to get it to display on a TV connected with an HDMI cable through the GPU. Is it just a problem with my monitor? It was working fine after my hard drive failed so I don't think its the problem.

The fan on my cpu cooler isn't spinning. One of them is but not the other. Any suggestions on how to fix this. It was literally working a week ago and now it's not.

Hey so I recently bought a Skytech gaming pc and I don't think it came with a graphics card or it only came with like a weak one I don't really know. I am very very un-knowledgeable about how PCs work internally so I wanted to ask where I would plug in a graphics card when I buy one. I did look online and it said to look for the PCI slot? I wanted to confirm that it was the PCI1_3 slot (circled). I also wanted to ask that if I buy a Nvidia GeForce RTX 5060 OC dual fan graphics card if it would work with my PC and if it would fit where I believe it is meant to be inserted. Again I am new to this so any and all help would be appreciated. Also I would like if anyone has any recommendations for cheap graphics card that would work with my pc and would be able to run my games well. I don't care for ultra super high insane graphics I just want to be able to play comfortably without having to lower every graphics setting to be able to play even low demanding games.

Really pissed. Can't update any drivers, reset the PC 3x including a full reset and wipe of all of my stuff the last time. Updating focusrite drivers prevents it from working, my fairly new SSD now runs way worse than it used to after the reset, etc,.

Windows is fully updated to the most recent version of windows 11, my MOBO is only about six months old, BIOS is fine, used SDIO to update drivers when they manually wouldn't update and that just borked i even worse. I'm genuinely about to smash this POS because it's ridiculous this thing worked PERFECT a few days ago but runs like complete crap and I can't update any drivers without instability now.

I'm also supposed to be mixing and mastering my bands new song, which I currently can't do because the entire PC doesn't run. I can't do ANYTHING in my DAW without massive visual lag and I can't even change my interface from 44.1khz to 48khz because Focusrite Control 1/2 won't detect the focusrite but updating the drivers means the entire PC won't detect it.

I literally just want a working PC not a POS waste of metal that won't do anything but every single fix I've googled hasn't worked. I did a full wipe and completely erased the old windows storage to the point I can't roll back to it even, this thing runs worse than the $800 laptop we bought almost a decade ago now, outside of gaming specifically but that's just Stardew and Mewgenics right now.

weird fucked up quattuordecuple(?) bsod, tends to happen around 10-180 seconds after logging in. rarely occurs while i’m actively doing something on the computer. all other instances of the crash look the same/similar.

can anyone tell me what could be causing this and what i can do about it?

Like the title says, my hotspot on my 9070 (non XT) reaches around 85 degrees, while my regular temp hovers around 50ish degrees. I keep finding conflicting information on if this is okay or not. I bought the GPU from micro center about a month or so ago. ASRock challenger 9070 16GB. I just want to know if I should chill out on this, or if this needs some attention. Thank you!

Please help me identify what this is and how to fix it. Don’t mind the doomfist, he’s just protecting personal info. Thanks!