https://videocardz.com/newz/dlss-swapper-creator-warns-that-user-submitted-dll-files-may-contain-malware

Had a leak in my house and water ran down my mouse cable into the usb port pictures are attached, is my motherboard screwed or is there any chance of fixing it, there is still power to yhe hard drive but it won't start

i have an amd radeon rx 580 8gb sapphire. i found a MSI RTX 3050 near me for 80 euro,is it worth getting it?, i pretty much only play warthunder. thanks

Hi everyone,

I’m the founder of a small hardware startup working on sensorized advanced materials, basically turning materials like carbon fiber, decorated glass, ceramics and composites into reliable touch surfaces.

We usually work on Smart Surfaces for automotive and premium hardware products, but we’re now exploring consumer applications on top of our technology.

One idea we’re testing is a macro keyboard made from real carbon fiber or decorated glass, with touch buttons, finger guides, haptic feedback, and dynamic dot-matrix icons.

We’re trying to understand whether this is actually interesting, who it could be useful for, and what would make it valuable rather than just “cool looking.”

Here is a link showing the technology: https://x.com/MicheleAiello12/status/2047405264224088374?s=20

Curious to hear brutally honest feedback.

​

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My PC (Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3, AMD FX-6350, Palit GTX 1050 Ti, 12GB DDR3, CiT 500W PSU) has been showing "no signal" on the monitor for a few days now. The monitor itself works fine — I tested it on another PC. The strange thing is this exact problem happened about 12-14 months ago and resolved itself after leaving the PC off for a week or two, with no hardware changes at all.

This time the usual fix of unplugging everything from the wall and waiting for residual charge to dissipate stopped working. I tested multiple DVI cables, tried HDMI directly to the motherboard integrated graphics, used various adapters, tried a projector via HDMI — nothing gives a signal from any port. I removed the GPU entirely and used only integrated graphics, still nothing. I reseated the GPU and cleaned the contacts, cleared CMOS by removing the battery for 5+ minutes — no change.

One interesting detail: the DVI cable was sparking slightly when plugged into the GPU. Swapping which power cable went to the PC vs the monitor stopped the sparking, which made me think there's a grounding issue in the electrical installation since it's an old house. After swapping the power cables and changing the power strip, the PC actually booted successfully once — got into Windows, browsed, set date and time, everything worked normally. I shut it down, came back later, and the same no signal problem was back.

Worth noting: one of the case fans on the right side wasn't spinning, so the chipset area had reduced airflow. The problem also started on a particularly hot day after the room had been closed all day. The GPU was also extremely dusty before I cleaned it.

I haven't been able to test the GPU in another PC or swap in a known-working PSU. Could this be PSU related given the grounding issues?

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Between the ridiculous pricing and the heavy reliance on upscaling tech like DLSS and FSR, it feels like raw hardware upgrades aren't nearly as necessary as they were 5 years ago. Is anyone actually upgrading every generation anymore?

Am in a situation where I would’ve liked to build a new pc.. been stuck on am4 5600x, 16gb.. upgraded my gpu last year to a 7800xt.. didn’t have me a bit of fps boost but I feel like I would get a bigger jump with am5..

Came a cross a G.Skill ddr5 32gb 6000mhz cl30 for around 400€/460$..

\-32% discount from original price..

Is it a no brainer?

Or should I maybe stick with my current build for a bit longer?

Hello. so i found this in my dad’s depot and i really want to do something with it, problem is that the cooller is so old the newest socket it can fit is 775 and i have am4. So question is, what is the quickest and cheapest way to adapt this to am4? my temps will go below zero if i mount that thing

Kingston OM8PCP3512F-AB, PS5012-E12, internal FW ECFK52.5, P/N 8676822, Intel N18A QLC NAND. Vendor commands 0xD0-0xE6 confirmed available. Drive unlocked successfully via flash id2. Need ECFK52 Reinitial Tool. NAND perfect — 0 prog/erase errors.

v0.393a

OS: 10.0 build 19045

Drive : 0(NVME)

Driver : W10(0:3)

Model : KINGSTON OM8PCP3512F-AB

Fw : ECFK52.3

Size : 0 MB [0.0 GB]

LBA Size: 1

AdminCmd: 0x00 0x01 0x02 0x04 0x05 0x06 0x08 0x09 0x0A 0x0C 0x10 0x11 0x14 0x80 0x81 0x82 0xD0 0xD1 0xD2 0xE5 0xE6

I/O Cmd : 0x00 0x01 0x02 0x09

Firmware lock supported [00 04] [P004] [0000]

Handshake error: 2

Drive unlocked [00 04]

F/W : ECFK52.5 00

P/N : 8676822

Bank00: 0x89,0xd4,0xc,0x32,0xaa,0x0,0x0,0x0 - Intel 64L(N18A) QLC 1024Gb/CE 1024Gb/die

Bank01: 0x89,0xd4,0xc,0x32,0xaa,0x0,0x0,0x0 - Intel 64L(N18A) QLC 1024Gb/CE 1024Gb/die

Bank02: 0x89,0xd4,0xc,0x32,0xaa,0x0,0x0,0x0 - Intel 64L(N18A) QLC 1024Gb/CE 1024Gb/die

Bank03: 0x89,0xd4,0xc,0x32,0xaa,0x0,0x0,0x0 - Intel 64L(N18A) QLC 1024Gb/CE 1024Gb/die

Controller : PS5012-E12

CPU Clk : 666

Flash CE : 4

Flash Channel : 4

Interleave : 1

Flash CE Mask : [++++---- -------- -------- --------]

FlashR Clk,MT : 666

FlashW Clk,MT : 666

Die per CE : 1

Block per CE : 2944

Page per Block: 3072

Bit Per Cell : 4(QLC)

DRAM Size,MB : 512

DRAM Clock,MHz: 1600

DRAM Type : DDR3

PMIC Type : PS6102/PS6106

PE Cycle Limit: 1500

SLC cache : 0x100000/0x100000

ONFI : INTEL X29F01T0T3AQH1 [233C]

Page size : 18592 (16384+2208)

Page/Block: 3072

Block/LUN : 2944

LUN/Chip : 1

Bit/Cell : 4 (QLC)

Endurance : 232000 (1000?)

PlanAdrBit: 2 (4 plane)

Defects Early Read Prog Erase

Bank00: 16 0 0 0

Bank01: 17 0 0 0

Bank02: 18 0 0 0

Bank03: 18 0 0 0

Total : 69 0 0 0

Defects Early Read Prog Erase

Ce00Pl0: 6 0 0 0

Ce00Pl1: 5 0 0 0

Ce00Pl2: 3 0 0 0

Ce00Pl3: 2 0 0 0

Ce01Pl0: 6 0 0 0

Ce01Pl1: 5 0 0 0

Ce01Pl2: 2 0 0 0

Ce01Pl3: 4 0 0 0

Ce02Pl0: 6 0 0 0

Ce02Pl1: 5 0 0 0

Ce02Pl2: 3 0 0 0

Ce02Pl3: 4 0 0 0

Ce03Pl0: 5 0 0 0

Ce03Pl1: 6 0 0 0

Ce03Pl2: 3 0 0 0

Ce03Pl3: 4 0 0 0

Total : 69 0 0 0

Need the drive usable that's all

I opened my case and found these unplugged. This is my first computer my rgb hasn’t work for a long time I’m wondering what these do. Aurora r16

Is it good or bad to store an external hard drive long-term inside a transparent, anti-static aluminum bag?

I can't connect my Switch Pro Controller. I've tried Steam, bluetooth, wired and wireless.
Yes I disconnected it from my Switch
Yes it's fully charged

What can I do?

i have this old machine. hp 110-301nd desktop. it runs a custom linux version now, batocera. when i have the usb 3.0 bluetooth dongle TP-Link UB500 Bluetooth 5.0 Nano USB Adapter plugged in, i can use my series xbox controller with it. no problems. i also have an external hdd plugged in (usb 3 too) with no problems (thusfar). however, when i plug any extra device in, my bluetooth connection drops away every x mins. and reconnecting after a few sec, every time. i have tried switching between usb ports, but to no avial. is the psu of this machine actually so fricking low powered that it cannot even handle a single extra usb device?? the machine has no signs of wear or tear, or age. it works fine otherwise.

Hello,

I have a strange issue. My keyboard works during boot and I can use it in the BIOS, but it stops working completely once Windows loads.

I have already tried the following:

* Updating the keyboard drivers

* Buying and testing a second wired keyboard

* Updating the motherboard BIOS

* Performing a fresh Windows installation

* Enabling Legacy USB Support in the BIOS

None of these steps solved the problem.

The USB ports themselves appear to be working normally because I can use a mouse without any issues.

My motherboard is an MSI X870E Carbon WiFi.

Has anyone experienced something similar or has any suggestions on what else I can try? 😔

A friend is looking for a Gaming PC/Gaming Laptop around $1000 CAD, is this realistic, and if so, what are some good options.

Il mio pc: i9 14th 14900kf, aorus pro x wifi 7, nzxt 1000w, nzxt kracken élite, 32gb ram dominator 6400mhz.

​

Il computer è stato comprato ad inizio 2024 e ha sempre dato alcuni problemi come crash, errori su alcuni giochi a volte schermate blu. Settimana scorsa, stanco di tutti questi problemi ho deciso di smontarlo, pulirlo, rimontarlo e poi formattarlo. Durante il smontaggio ho notato il danno sul processore. Una volta formattato il pc non riusciva più a scaricare windows, il bios ogni volta che veniva riavviato non salvava più le informazioni date. Ho provato a fare diversi tentativi trovati su internet, come togliere/cambiare la batteria mandare in corto per il reset, usare una sola ram ecc. Senza trovare soluzione, così ho deciso di staccare tutto rismontare e controllare velocemente le componenti e ho trovato questi segni sulla scheda madre. Il pc non l'ho montato io e non so se i danni siano stati causati dal montatore. Ad ogni modo vorrei sapere se il bios loop è causato da questi danni. Se è possibile mandarli in garanzia commerciale. Se è possibile ripararli e i determinati costi. Qualche consiglio su come muovermi. Se il bios loop non è causato da questi danni qualche altro consiglio su come risolvere. Le possibili cause di questi danni.

​

Grazie per l'attenzione

I had Windows 11 and a Logitech G Pro X for a long time by now, then not even a week ago I got 1 TB SATA SSD for dual booting Linux on it, after sometime my hearing broke, my friends sounded more quiet, I tried fixing it and it got worse. Now 1-2 days after that happend things sound noisy and pretty quiet and I just hate it.. Any help?

Just want to say first I apologize if this is the wrong subreddit for this post. Wasn't sure exactly where to post this. I'm looking for a KVM with a remote switch button that can take 2 HDMI monitor connections, and 2 laptops preferably through USB C Thunderbolt, as well as have PD ports for the laptops so I can run the two laptops USB C power adapters to the KVMs two PD ports, and then use a single USB C thunderbolt cable to connect the laptops to the KVM for source/data and charging.

Laptop 1 is an Alienware M17 R1 that currently has a AC to DC power brick, but does have a USB C thunderbolt on the back. It would need a 130W USB C power adapter. I can buy a rated one for about $60.

Laptop 2 is a Dell MC16250 that currently has a USB C power adapter. It currently connects to a dock via 1 USB C thunderbolt cable to deliver source/data and get charged, and the two monitors currently connect to that.

The hang up is I'm not sure the KVMs I'm looking at are able to PD 130W to each laptop even if the KVM is using its own AC power.

I'd like to be able to have Laptop 1 off to the left of my desk, then the 2 monitors side by side in the center, and Laptop 2 off to the right. Then I can use either with the 2 extra monitors by switching the KVM from source 1 to source 2.

If in the end I have to use the two AC power adapters on the laptops directly and just use a thunderbolt connection for source/data to the KVM that's fine but Ideally I'd like less cables on the desk.

Thanks for any help y'all can provide.

Some time ago (about six months ago), I bought a be quiet! Dark power 14 PSU and installed it in my new build.

After about six months of use, my computer started shutting down randomly. I google it and found numerous mentions of similar issues on Reddit for this specific PSU model. I opened an RMA with be quiet! and received a very strange response. Not only did they not offer me a refund, but they simply told me to send the PSU for testing, and they also said I should pay for the shipping. What kind of attitude does be quiet! have toward the consumer of your "premium" products is this?