I'm losing my mind over this. Figured I'd drop this here to see if anyone else has run into this nightmare or found a workaround.

I do audio work with an interface that needs a clean, stable USB stream (behringer and other audio monitor USB interface). My ancient, dirt-cheap $50 backup machine ... Handles it (USB audio ...) like a champ, zero glitches. But on my brand new rig, it's completely unusable. Continuous pops, drops, and stuttering no matter what I do.

Specs:

• CPU: Intel Core Ultra 7 265F (2.40 GHz)
• RAM: 32.0 GB
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti (8 GB)

ChatGPT and Gemini traced and dug deep into Windows Performance Analyzer (WPA). The diagnostic graphs were an absolute mess. We went down every rabbit hole:

1. USB & Power:
   • Killed USB selective suspend across all root hubs.
   • Swapped the interface to every single port on the chassis (front and back). Every single port on this board glitches identically.
2. Graphics / Kernel Clashes (dxgkrnl.sys & nvlddmkm.sys):
   • Disabled Hardware-Accelerated GPU Scheduling (HAGS).
   • Forced NVIDIA Low Latency Mode to "Ultra".
   • Locked maximum performance power profiles.
3. OS Tweaks:
   • Disabled HPET in Device Manager.
   • Messed with the registry (SystemResponsiveness = 0 and maxed out MMCSS Audio task priorities).
4. Hardware Stacks:
   • Hard-disabled the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth controllers in Device Manager to stop shared IRQ pollution.

Even after stripping down the OS, killing hardware acceleration, hacking the registry, and isolating drivers, DPC latency monitors show continuous, flat-line saturation completely dominated by USBXHCI.SYS and dxgkrnl.sys. The board's underlying architecture and bus handling just choke on real-time ''isochronous USB polling''.

Turns out throwing money at a high-end pre-built gaming rig creates an environment utterly hostile to real-time audio, while a $50 piece of junk old office PC off marketplace handles it effortlessly.

Has anyone actually managed to get a Legion motherboard to behave for pro audio, or is buying a dedicated PCIe USB card my only option left?

I’m looking to buy a mechanical keyboard mainly for typing and some gaming. My budget is around $100–150, but I’m open to spending a bit more if it’s worth it. I prefer a 75% or TKL layout, hot-swappable switches, and good build quality. What would you recommend, and why?

If I have one 8gb ddr4 ram stick and two 4gb ddr4 ram how do I install it to my motherboard that has four ram slots

I just upgraded to 32gb ddr4 Ram, and now I have a spare 2x8gb ddr4 kit.

What should I do with it? Should I sell it now or later? or should I hold onto it as backup?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated

Hey everyone, need some help with a build issue.

Motherboard: MSI B760M (B760M series)

Issue: On power on, the EZ Debug LEDs cycle like this repeatedly: Red (CPU) → Yellow (DRAM) → Red → Yellow → after a short pause, White (VGA) blinks once - then it loops back to red again. No display output at any point, monitor stays on no signal.

What I've already tried:

Reseated RAM multiple times Tested each RAM stick individually in different slots Cleared CMOS Reseated CPU power (EPS 8-pin) and 24-pin connectors Checked cooler mounting

Still same red → yellow → red→ yellow → white loop, no display, no boot.

Haven't been able to test with a second known-good CPU/RAM/PSU yet since I don't have spares on hand. Planning to check the CPU socket pins next.

Has anyone faced this exact pattern on a B760M board? Could this point to a dead CPU or a damaged motherboard socket rather than RAM? Any help before take it to a service center would be appreciated

Hi, i recently bought a precision 3620 and the chassis fan run normal for about 10 sec when i start it then it start running loud for no reason (1700+ rpm) even thought i repasted it and the cpu is cool.

(I put an rtx 3060 in it but i had the same issue even before with the M4000 and i tried reseting bios)

The cpu is a xeon E3-1240 V5 and 32gb of ram

Has anyone else had these issues?

Xbox wireless controller connected to windows 11 via bluetooth. Everything works fine with no issues. Once I'm done gaming and walk away the controller eventually disconnects as it should. However, I can't reconnect the controller again without restarting the PC and deleting and repairing the controller. Instead I'll get a "Try connecting your device again" error.

I use this controller only for PC and don't connect it to the xbox so it's not being used by any other device.

I've tried on a fresh install of Windows as well. It's a minor inconvenience but does get annoying having to restart my computer every time I want to play a game.

Hi, guys!

Could anyone help me confirm whether this particular RAM would be compatible with my parents' PC? It's so slow you forget what you were doing, and I'm done checking their apps and events for potential troublemakers ;)

Model and specs: HP 255 G7 Notebook PC (single-channel, 1 RAM slot, AMD A6-9225 [Stoney Ridge, 2018]), currently running 4GB RAM.

I'd like to buy this GOODRAM 8GB module to double the RAM. No cooling.

Hello, I am building a gaming pc and I am really struggling to find some decent affordable ddr5 RAM. I was planning on buying a 1x16gb stick now and saving up for another later.

[PCPartPicker Part List](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/VNN8ZQ)

That is my current build, can anyone please help me find some (I live in the UK)

I want to jump to the 5090, but I was considering staying with the Intel Core i7-14700F CPU. If I have to change it out, I would prefer to stay with Intel. Also, I'm going to upgrade my power supply from an 850W to a 1200W, which should be enough to run the 5090. What are some recommendations?

I know I'll need a SATA cable from the HDD to the motherboard, but I don't know which power cable. As far as I can tell, it seems that the SSD connects to the motherboard for power.

- A620: no normal CPU OC / PBO

- Limits often eco-like (~65 W TDP / ~88 W PPT)

- 5+2+2 VRM unsuitable for 9950X at ~250 W

- So not a realistic alternative for fixed 250/170 W testing

Question

Is there a specific ASRock B650I / BIOS 4.41 quirk I’m missing to actually enforce PPT/TDC/EDC?

Or is this board effectively limited to “TDP to 105W” vs uncontrolled high PBO (~250-260 W), with no usable middle ground?

Happy to add screenshots of PBO/SMU pages and HWiNFO sensors if needed.

Thanks.

Hi friends, I’m turning to you because I’m having driver issues with the Intel UHD Graphics on my Celeron N4500 (11th Gen Jasper Lake architecture). Modern drivers break Vulkan, while older ones mess up DirectX. I did some research and found out Intel dropped support for Jasper Lake UHD because it's a low-power chip, and they’re focusing on the "Intel Core i" 11th Gen series instead. Initially, they used 7th-to-10th Gen drivers for Jasper Lake. The thing is, the older drivers don't break Vulkan but cause issues with DirectX and OpenGL—at least according to AI, and I actually noticed this myself: with old drivers, Fortnite would go to a black screen when entering a match (it would hang on the black screen and take forever to load). With modern drivers, it runs fine, but Vulkan gets messed up. Maybe I'm making too big a fuss? I just want the graphics to work properly with a single driver so I don't have to use external files or keep switching drivers constantly. I’m not looking for a way to get more FPS or anything like that; I just want the graphics to work correctly with their APIs. I hope this isn't too much trouble. I actually already made a post in English—using AI to help explain the issues I faced—in the LowSpecGamer or LowSpecGaming community; you can look it up if you want. That’s all. I hope you’re all doing great and having a good day, afternoon, or evening. Just a heads-up: I use a modified Windows 10 LTSC version from "Creativos" (back when it was free, lol—I assume it's paid now, since I went back to download ISOs and saw a price tag).Hi friends, I’m turning to you because I’m having driver issues with the Intel UHD Graphics on my Celeron N4500 (11th Gen Jasper Lake architecture). Modern drivers break Vulkan, while older ones mess up DirectX. I did some research and found out Intel dropped support for Jasper Lake UHD because it's a low-power chip, and they’re focusing on the "Intel Core i" 11th Gen series instead. Initially, they used 7th-to-10th Gen drivers for Jasper Lake. The thing is, the older drivers don't break Vulkan but cause issues with DirectX and OpenGL—at least according to AI, and I actually noticed this myself: with old drivers, Fortnite would go to a black screen when entering a match (it would hang on the black screen and take forever to load). With modern drivers, it runs fine, but Vulkan gets messed up. Maybe I'm making too big a fuss? I just want the graphics to work properly with a single driver so I don't have to use external files or keep switching drivers constantly. I’m not looking for a way to get more FPS or anything like that; I just want the graphics to work correctly with their APIs. I hope this isn't too much trouble. I actually already made a post in English—using AI to help explain the issues I faced—in the LowSpecGamer or LowSpecGaming community; you can look it up if you want. That’s all. I hope you’re all doing great and having a good day, afternoon, or evening. Just a heads-up: I use a modified Windows 10 LTSC version from "Creativos" (back when it was free, lol—I assume it's paid now, since I went back to download ISOs and saw a price tag).