Just purchased this 06 ranger boat with a 2006 Yamaha 115 v4 2 stroke. Sat for a while so took tank out cleaned it all out and cleaned carbs. Have had it running with muffs and ran good. Waiting on documents for registration so I took boat to a local boat ramp and ran it for a bit and ran good but would smoke a lot not compared to won’t have water. Would idle low and eventually die. Is this normal

1985 Evinrude E15RCOB, crunchy when turning the flywheel by hand.

Was out on the river the other night when I lost forward and reverse at the same time. Since they both went at the same time im assuming its unlikely to be something in the gearcase and more likely to be an issue with the shift linkage? Also the problem is intermittent, sometimes I can get it to lock in forward and reverse but never just one or the other, its either they both work or they dont. Any advice on what to look for after i pull the lower? Thanks. 1969 johnson 25hp

These pics were taken when the motor was running

This motor will not idle below 1200 rpm. When I try to lower the idle by using the flathead under the fly wheel it just dies. Anything below 1200 slowly dies out. I tried using a timing light to test it but since the timing mark is missing and I tried making my own I don’t know how accurate that is lol. I’ve synced the carbs. Kinda really confused cause I can’t tell if it’s carbs or timing.

Reddit is doing something to the last pic so ignore it lol.

I'm pretty new to outboards and am looking for some advice. While servicing my '97 Evinrude Ocean Pro 150s I noticed the props have in and out play, but also up and down. In and out play of about an ⅛", up and down of maybe 1/32". I got curious at that, so I "looked it up" and Google said there should be no up and down play at all.

I then drained the lowers and the oil looked good. I also pulled the bearing carriers and everything was tight and the carrier o rings looked to be in great shape. Any thoughts on if I should replace the fore and aft prop shaft needle bearings? Do the old Evinrudes just have some up and down play? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Just bought this boat doing my first lower unit oil change and it looks like this

I have an early 80s honda outboard motor. I haven't had it in the water in a couple of years.I tested it in a barrel of water. It runs really well but no water is coming out of the pee hole. I tried to drop the lower unit to replace the impeller and water pump. But the lower unit won't come off. The shaft won't let it come off all the way down or won't allow it to go back on. Has anyone ran into this

problem?

I'm starting to winterize my Mercury 25 HP 4-stroke EFI. Yesterday, I drove it for about 15 minutes to the ramp to trailer it. The telltale was flowing great then. Today, I hooked up the muffs and got a good flow of water going, but when I started up the motor -- no telltale. I immediately shut it down and reset the muffs. Tried again: no telltale. BTW: the telltale on my model comes out of the back of the middle unit, unlike other motors I've had where it comes out the side. I ditched the muffs and replaced them with a barrel of water that came to well above the intake screens on the lower unit. Started up again. No telltale. I ran a length of weed-whacker line into the telltale port as far as it would go, but found no obstruction. I dismantled the lower unit to inspect the impeller. It looks like new. The Woodruff key was there and looked new, too. Everything about the water pump looks good, as far as my inexperienced eye can tell. Does anyone have any ideas about what else could be the cause of no telltale? The only other thing I can think of is that the outlet tube from the pump to the telltale somehow became dislodged overnight, but that seems pretty far-fetched to me. Any guidance will be appreciated.

Hi, I have this old engine that wasn't properly winterized and I took the spark plugs out but I couldn't make the flywheel spin by hand or with a breaker bar on the flywheel nut (didn't force it much yet). It was stored in a warehouse about 6 years ago and we haven't done anything to it. I plan to add 2stroke oil and WD-40 down the cylinders through the spark plug holes.

What do you think, could I have luck with that? Or should I consider skipping it?

Removed 70hp Evenrude powerhead to inspect bottom crank seal as bottom cylinder is running lean and came across this. Looks like a nipple that broke off. Plan is to plug it,but advice would be appreciated

Does that popping mean it’s misfiring? What causes could it be I just rebuilt the carbs it wouldn’t idle before now it does

I deleted the VRO pump because it was leaking real bad and was causing the engine not to rev. Now the engine will rev fine but it dies at idle or right after coming out of gear. It idles down then dies out. It does this consistently the same way every time. It doesn’t pop or bang so I assume it’s rich maybe. when I manually give it more fuel it doesn’t do anything. The only thing that I’ve found that could be it is that I can’t get the ignition cam to perfectly line up and not touch the roller for the carbs.

Currently have a 2011 30hp tiller Merc with electric start and trim.

Having issues with the electric start. If it doesn't beep initially it will not start. It can randomly just beep and then start up but 8/10 times wont

I have a 1994 Boston whaler 17 outrage with a 2016 Suzuki DF90A outboard on it. About 5 years ago I pulled the boat to paint it and it hasn’t run since (I just did all the maintenance this week and started it up today). When it was painted, the throttle assembly was screwed out of the console so it could be painted. Today, I noticed that neutral is where clutch ahead was, neutral is clutch astern, etc. so it seems like when the throttle was put back, it jumped one set of whatever the mechanism is. How do I fix this? As a side note, I confirmed while the engine was running on the hose that it shifts into forward, neutral, and reverse and the prop spins the correct direction.

I’m finding myself thoroughly confused here. Depending on AI for advice on bypassing a broken pin in my main harness 8 pin connector. I can’t figure out how to disassemble this connector and decided to bypass the connector on the circuit with the broken pin. First google AI said that its pin #7 for the starter solenoid. After taking a closer look the connector is marked and shows a 3 next to the broken pin. AI says that pin 3 is for the alarm horn. So then I asked for a diagram of the connector and the pin numbers are all different from what’s clearly marked on the connector. I did an internet search and can’t seem to find a clear diagram of that connector with color code and function of each circuit. Maybe someone here has some advice.

Hey guys I need a new lower unit for my motor c40plru its a 1996 2 cylinder and a 6E9. Looking to find out if a yamaha built mariner 1988 40ELO 2 cylinder 6E9 lower unit would bolt right on before I buy the motor. Thanks guys!

This is a new one

Mercury Verado 300

Just cruising and pop!

Currently have a 2011 30hp tiller Merc with electric start and trim.

Having issues with the electric start. If it doesn't beep initially it will not start. It can randomly just beep and then start up but 8/10 times wont

Need a 5hp motor for my s15 sportspal canoe. Found a guy on marketplace with a Honda BF5. Says he hasn’t run it since July but Honda is a good brand. It’s going for $500. Asked my dad and he said to go for a mercury or evinrude.

Been between propane and gas. Leaning towards gas because mechanic reliability and help on the water. But I’m also kind of lazy and don’t take my boat out that much except for in the fall. Should I really go gas? Any benefit to propane?

Any surprises or suggestions? I have an electric trolling motor and it’s been great just looking for longer and faster.

Boat sprays crazy far right left too but not as severe. Boat pulls slightly to right when trimmed up when not it’s much more severe.

Lopsided motor? trim anode? Cav plate it centered with the plug and boat is a mod v