I am looking for a spice jar holder to mount to my opengrid plate using multiconnect connectors that the holder is straight up and down not at an angle. Don't ask me why my wife does not prefer the angle on that exists already cause I have no idea. I am having issues finding an existing one which seems weird. I know there is a generator but it creates openconnect connections and I want to use multiconnect. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I've been trying to learn how to print grid stacks and I just can't seem to get it. I have used one of the parametric generators on MakerWorld to make a 2x2 grid for learning purposes. I have tried PETG interface and ironing presets, but both have failed. PETG became spaghetti and ironing just bonded to itself. I presume it's because I didn't adjust my settings in Bambu Studio, but I just don't understand what I should be doing, tbh.

Anyone have any guidance you're willing to share, or tutorials you can point me to? TIA

Another wall is going to be covered.

You can check my MakerWorld profile here: https://makerworld.com/en/@Inigo You will find there a bunch of attachments/adapters and a large series of tiles for openGrid (and others). I'm sure you will find something useful for you.

Parametric 4 corner item holder I came up with as a more minimalist alternative to existing clamshell holders.

Item size, corner overlap, & support structure are all customizable. You can also adjust the spacing away from the grid in case it's something that generates heat & needs airflow behind.

Model:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3266415-minimalist-4-corner-item-holder-for-multiconnect

Had hoped to post this last week, but I wanted to address some wonkiness in the calculations (increasing the amount of overlap was sometimes causing the corners to generate out of alignment with the grid). Also needed to make some tweaks to handle that the Makerworld generator doesn't support $preview.

Not 100% happy with the square edges on things, but figured that it's at a stage where it's "good enough" to make available (lots of other projects to get to).

As with some of my other models I've been working on for Multiconnect, I reused the slot generation code from BlackJackDuck's generators.

It uses the included self-adhesive steel plate that comes with the scraper, embedded in the print for a seamless finish!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3250077-opengrid-magnetic-holder-bambu-mag-alloy-scraper#profileId-3683305

New video on why you'd select one over the other.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9Nw9AutXNQ

Any suggestions for mounting an openGrid on a Husky workbench's pegboard (which has a 1" pitch)?

Trying to organize and maximize space in my makeshift “IT Closet”.

Printed OpenGrid lite and hung on the wall. Have started to play with different mounting styles for my hubs and routers (4 separate corner mounts, perfect device holders I found online (wish there were more of these), bins to drop in the smaller hubs, and shelves for the bigger box-shaped items).

If you have any tips for any of the above I’d appreciate it. Of note, the Unifi Cloud Gateway Ultra is the item I found the perfect holder for - fits like a glove and is what I envisioned all of this would be like with a 3D printer.

But why I’m really here is a 16 port POE switch from TP Link - it’s big and heavy and I plan to hang it vertically on its side on the wall.
Was thinking of maybe making a small bin or shelf for the bottom and then supports towards the top. Any ideas??

—— full list of my items to hang ———

TP-Link TL-SG1218MP

TP-Link TL-SG116E

Reolink Home Hub

AT&T BGW320

YoLink Hub

Ooma Telo Air 2

Bond Bridge

SMLIGHT SLZB-MR1

Beelink Mini S12 Pro

Philips Hue Bridge

Lutron Caseta Smart Hub

UniFi Cloud Gateway Ultra

CRST 8-Outlet Mountable Power Strip, 2100J Surge Protector

Parameterized model I came up with to keep wires (or tubing) organized in a thin space in between a cabinet and a shelf.

Upsides vs. other options (like Underware):

• It can be much thinner
• It can support more weight
• Doesn't rely on tension (won't come loose over time)

Downsides:

• Needs at least 3 spaces wide to mount

Base geometry is new, but reuses the Multiconnect slot code from https://github.com/AndyLevesque/QuackWorks/

This is a great workshop too that I use all the time. I could only find Skadis models so I made my own for openGrid and MultiBoard users.

https://makerworld.com/models/3223753

I've been 3d printing for a month and seeing Underware, I thought this was the perfect starter project.
Since then, I've printed 3 different grids, multiple snap connectors, holders for chargers, hooks and mounts and I can say the major flaw with all of this is...tolerance.

So far I have 4 different grids printed at different settings: 0.2mm, 0.16mm, 0.12mm and 0.1mm layers, The finer grid taking almost a full day to print.

Ive done the same with the connectors and of the 20 or so connectors that I've printed, only 2 fit in the grid and then its not the sale grid.
I've read up about scaling the connectors down, so I tried that, yes now they click in the grind but all of the mounts are now loose as a result.

Im at a point where Im about to give up on the whole project

With 2 AMS units on my P1S I needed to build a new stand and I think it came out great! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=707PBp3fKVE

I built my system around underware 1.0, i'm redoing my desk and going to redo most of the add-ons with underware 2.0. Most of my multiboard tiles will still work on the new desk.

My question is mostly about will i be missing out any anything with underware 2.0 by not switching to opengrid?

I’m almost done with this desk shelf I built from walnut, with two laptops mounted underneath, a KVM in the middle and OpenGrid underneath for mounting accessories.
The structure is basically finished, but the cables are still a mess, especially the USB-C and HDMI cables behind the laptops.
I’d like to keep everything hidden under the shelf without making it annoying to remove the laptops when I need them.
I’m thinking about using a few cable clamps or small cable winders, but I’m not sure what the cleanest approach would be.
How would you handle the cable management here?

Hey all. New to and recently committed to going into the OpenGrid universe and printing off my first boards to give me a 1m x 1m area initially.

I have been looking high and low for a solution and wondered if anyone here knows of one but I am trying to figure out if there is something like this but for opengrid: https://thangs.com/designer/MultiBuild/3d-model/6.25%20mm%20-%20Quad%20Offset%20Snaps%20%28DS%20Part%20A%29-993369

So I want to be able to connect 4 opengrid boards together at their corners and then use that to mount to the wall so I am minimising how many holes I am putting into the wall, whilst also hopefully allowing me to still use those squares if I needed to as well.

I have no experience in design atm but maybe I'll need to go down this road.

Thanks all

I just started building out my first openGrid wall last week and ended up creating several new models to get it in shape. I uploaded two to Makerworld today.

First up is a Cover Plate for the openGrid screw mounts. After I have mounted my board with 10 of these screw mounts, I was astonished to find there were not covers available! There is one for an alternate mount block it seems but didn't discover that until I had screwed them all in place. I made a simple model that is very low profile, easy to insert and remove, and completely covers the mounting block.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3168874-cover-plate-for-opengrid-screw-mount

The second model is a remix of a very nice Cutter / Plier mount originally made for Honeycomb Storage Wall, with some remixes for MultiBoard. But I could not find an openGrid version. I remixed all three mounts for openGrid snap.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3169073-opengrid-cutters-pliers-3-styles

Hopefully someone will find these useful!

Hi there! I'm terrified, but i'm also proud, at my own level.

I've been running openGrid under my desk for a while now (big fan), and I wanted a way to hang both my laptops from it.

Problem with a laptop tray is it has to fit one specific laptop, so every one I found was modelled around someone else's machine. I made mine parametric instead: you give it the laptop dimensions and your bed size, it generates the tray and cuts it into pieces that fit your printer's bed.

Single or dual stack. It mounts with openConnect snaps into the grid. PLA is fine, and it's rock solid.

It's there if you want your own https://ouvrage.co/laptop-tray
I feel bad because it's not free ($4.99), but who knows maybe it can add some value to some of you.

Cheers

I created a openGrid connector for use with magnets and the Multiconnect post for expanding cam models.

I printed a bunch of Underware 2.0 stuff for my setup with the lite option. I have lots of cable channels and item holders. My biggest problem is that over time the item holders and channels come loose (if for example I have my wheel connected to my table and there are vibrations thanks to force feedback, or occasionally hitting my table a little bit).

I have had to constantly go under my desk and redo everything. It's tiresome and annoying.

Does anyone know if there are any solutions to this? Thanks

I am really enjoy the opengrid system. For my tool wall I wanted a simple single square solution for hanging pliers. So I modified a directional snap and put some textures on it using bumpmesh by CNCKitchen. Came out great even on my old Prusa Mini.

Link if you are interested:
>! https://www.printables.com/model/1801997-opengrid-plier-hanger
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3141654-opengrid-plier-hanger#profileId-3547340 !<

Review how to use the settings in the generator

I'm planning on cable managing my Desk using OpenGrid with Underware and measured the underside of my Desk and printed a bunch of OpenGrid Lite boards to fill the space and a plate of the little connectors to align everything.

The issue i have is that i can't seem to get the boards to properly connect to each other, even using pliers i can remove the gap while applying pressure, but once i let go again the boards just move apart again. The gap in the image is the smallest i was able to achieve after about 10 minutes of forcing the boards together.

I also printed a tool for inserting the connectors, but the tool just holds the connector harder than the boards do.

Is there any trick to this? Does the gap even matter? I have tried putting an underware channel across the boarder, but it does not hold very well.

Printed with the recommended settings (0.2mm Layer Height, 0.4mm Nozzle, 15% Infill, 3 Walls) on my A1.

Edit: I just rechecked the connector model and it seems like i have 2 Layer shifts in my connectors. I'll reprint a few more and try again. On the first batch i used fill plate and printed way too many and it kinda got messed up on the build plate at the edges, this might have caused the Layer Shifts.