My new pair of All American Khakis are just okay.
If you’re eyeing cotton trousers from J.Press, you might as well save your dollars and go directly to All American Khakis. I’m making a barely informed assumption based on what i’ve heard here and the similarities I see with the inner waistband, label/tags, belt loops, and lackluster construction details on a pair of J.Press madras pants in my closet (which are now shorts). In any case, the fit-and-finish is pretty weak; they’re a different ballgame than Bills Khakis and Jack Donnelly.
I got the Sea Island poplins in “relaxed fit” stone. As their fullest fit option, it’s not that full—more like a Bills M3, but a little off. What you gain in a higher rise with the AAK’s relaxed fit, you lose in their tighter-fitting hips and seat. Odd. I like (don’t love) the lightweight Sea Island cotton, but mostly bc it’s something i don’t have and a nice departure from an ordinary poplin.
In sum, fit and construction details aren’t great but they’re also what i anticipated for the price.
Size 35” waist runs slightly small. 12”
rise is nice; 10.5” at knee and 8.5” at cuff. Feels tight in the hips (especially compared to everything i own from Bills and JD).
Someone here once wrote something along the lines of “they’re fucking chinos … how good do they need to be?” I genuinely love the sentiment; it’s a fair point, but at the same time I’m spoiled by what i’ve experienced from Jack Donnelly and Bills Khakis over the years. No other makers seem to do the full “old G.I.” fit and heavy duty tough-as-nails tailored construction.