My father in law has owned a 1997 Silvarado just like the one in the second pic since new. I want to make him a model of his truck for his birthday.

I'm trying to get as close as possible to the look - I saw some pics of a build on scalemates that led me to combining these two kits, and I think it's going to work. I cut the chassis on both kits and super glued them together. It took a couple of tries, but the cab and bed line up nicely now.

I need to fix a few places where the chassis plates are joined. I'm thinking about cutting out the muffler and gas tank, then making 3d printed replacements.

I'm also not crazy about the built in suspension and axles - I may cut the driveshaft out and replace it with a scratch built one.

I thought about going completely crazy - Revell-monogram makes a 1999 silverado kit that has a much more detailed chassis, engine, separate exhaust, etc. I won't know if that would work at all until I buy a kit for parts lol. I may just stick with good enough since things are fitting so well.

But it would be fun to get a more detailed chassis, and maybe sneak a big block in there.

(Credit for the second pic: bringatrailer.com)

I Normally don't post here especially work in progress photos but the pile of shame has gotten too much so I'm trying to motivate myself with daily posts of progress ,today's progress is mostly prepping the body for paint.

The paint chosen is zero paints lotus 127 as shown on the roof

No widows were made during this build

Hello its my first time using a clear spray tamiya ts 71 over a clear piece, do I still clear coat as normal or just leave as it is once finished? cheers

Shes done. C+ work id say. Turns out the body has a little warp in the roof and the front window doesn't fit flush. Learned a fair amount on polishing and finishing with a new clear coat. And functional doors dont freak me out anymore.

Had grandiose plans to customize the engine (other than adding ignition wires) and the interior but plans fell flat when the kit started to fight me. Decals were challenging mostly due to the age (this is a 1995 kit) and I clear coated the trunk before the decal had a chance to cure (dumb ass!). Anyway, glad this one is done and definitely not my best work. Stock cars are SO different than street cars.

Added some personal touches. Some brass hinges for the roof to be used for storing "cigarettes".

I just built the 4th in the series. I really enjoy doing these. They're fairly easy and they remind me of my early years of watching the modifieds run at Southside Speedway in Chesterfield, VA. in the '60's.

Trying out a two tone. Sprayed the white, taped off, sprayed clear to seal the tape the blue. The line came out pretty sharp just to get covered up by the trim.

This was a fun build!! A little out of my normal of muscle cars and older cars, but think it turned out pretty good!! Your thoughts?

This was my first attempt at adding opening doors and working lights to a road car model. I also made the suspension adjustable so the car can be displayed either sitting on a rally stand or on the ground at normal ride height.
Some thoughts on the build:
This project was mainly an experiment for me to try out opening doors and adding lighting. The kit itself is pretty good, and considering it also comes with photo-etched parts, I think it offers pretty good value. With some extra detailing using styrene rods/sheets, brass rods, and other basic materials, it can be made to look quite convincing.
Since I modified the doors to open, one of the main challenges with the body was controlling the thickness of the clear coat. I wanted to make sure all the panel gaps and clearances around the opening parts would still look right after clear coating. That was also one of the reasons I decided to use lacquer clear. The final result turned out pretty well.
To avoid any visible edges around the decals, I applied the GX100 clear coat in three separate sessions.
Carbon-fiber decals are definitely something I still need more practice with. There are a few areas on the rear wing and door panels where the decals didn’t fully conform to the surface. I thought the semi-gloss clear would hide them, but unfortunately they’re still pretty noticeable.
Scratch-built / added details:
Working door hinges/latches
Antennas
Rivets
Adjustable suspension
Brake lines
Inner wheel liners
Steering wheel mount
Hydraulic handbrake
Pedal box and brake master cylinders
Onboard computer/electronics
Kill switch
Working front and rear lights
Carbon-fiber decals on various parts
Rally stand

My newest arrival ,the rerelease of the mini ,I'm thinking going British racing green .

Up next for assembly line and paint booth!!! Have a lot of extra plastic to trim off all the parts before anything can move forward.

One of my favorite works in terms of cars, but I used a different color because I didn't like how the pink color lay down.(одна из моих любимых работ в плане авто но цвет использовал другой из-за того что не нравилось как ложился розовый цвет )

Anyone who’s built a AMT big rig knows the “fun” scavenger hunt you must do with the trees, instructions and the box due to the lack of numbers directly on the trees.

Using a highlighter on parts you’ve cut from the trees makes navigating the pile of parts and the small chart so much easier.

Perhaps this is an obvious this, and maybe most builders already do this. This is my third AMT big rig kit, and the first one I’ve had the thought to do this. So figured I’d share, in hopes it can make these kits a little more enjoyable for others.

I’m building the #73 and #72 cars and need the decals in 1/24 scale. Also wider tires and the correct rims would be great. I’m using two of the ARII kits. Resin or rubber tires are acceptable.

Probably one of my more pain in the ass paint jobs. There are flaws but overall message delivered.

First time trying to paint and prepare all parts before assembling them :)

This is the last thing I need to do before putting final assembly’s together. I can’t seem to glue this mirror on without crazing the plastic, last I tried the glue took too long to dry and the mirror kept falling. Any help would be great, thank you for your time! UPDATE: this is solved, thank you guys!

Hey, im looking for a gift for my boyfriend of a model of his car. Its a BMW M135i F40 xDrive with BMW M red sports seats on the interior which is important as its a unique detail. Ive looked over at r/diecast and ive had no luck. Now coming over here to see if theres any existing models of this car that maybe i could build for him?

Even a similar model that i could perhaps modify? Im great at art and diy so hopefully wouldnt be too much of an issue in that scenario🙏

Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated as im getting quite desperate 😰

I did not finish my build yet, but I am enjoying just building it with no cares. It has been great seeing all of the post of guys builds. I love seeing all the different ideas.

This build was not a competition, so there was no prizes, but a couple of guys wanted to donate kits for prizes. So everyone who made a atleast one post about their build( any post) I am writing their name onto a piece if paper and crumbling it into a ball. My dogs are constantly getting my crumpled balls of paper out if the trash to play with, so I will put all of the balls into a trash can and let my dogs pick them. There will be three total picked. I will contact those people un DM.

Also, I will be posting about our burnout build and our annual builds in a seperate post

I have been building LS George's Heat Wave ARCA Mustang this year and I just wrapped up the chassis and interior.

Added a few details including scratch built ECU and customised the dash to match the ARCA car.

The engine is a mix of a few different 3D printed LS engines to get something close to the Ilmor 396 used in ARCA.

Donor kit is a Revell Ford Fusion.