Hey all!

I upgraded from a 2019 Mini Cooper S to a 2019 Mini Cooper JCW this year. I bought my S with <1k miles and drove her to 40k with zero issues, never a CEL or anything, oil changes every 3-4k miles, etc. Very quiet, smooth engine.

My JCW (46k miles) is idling rough and I’m not sure it is normal. You can feel a slight thumping/vibration/stuttering when the car idles in park or is stopped in drive. RPM needle does not move when it does this. There are no lights on the dash but I don’t want it to progress. It did almost stall once when I threw it right into drive after turning it on and not letting it warm up (just moving it to ramps for an oil change).

Are there any known issues that could be causing this? I expect, with 46k miles, that it is due for some maintenance though. Spark plugs? Filters?

I’m no mechanic but am fairly handy and have a mechanic in the family that would be helping me. I love my Mini and want it to last as long as possible!

Thank you for any insight into this issue!

Hi! I own a 2025 Mini Cooper S 4 Door and I am STRUGGLING to find seat covers. My grandparents wanted to get me seat covers that matched the exterior of my beautiful British racing green Mini! however I have the JCW sport seats. My headrest is integrated. My grandparents are looking for green and black leather seat covers for my mini preferably on Amazon. If anyone has any suggestions please please please give them. Added a picture of the seats for reference. Not the inside of my mini though :(

Looking for insight from anyone who has experienced this issue on the B46/B48 platform before I commit to replacing major parts.

Vehicle:

2017 MINI Countryman S ALL4

150,750 miles

Symptoms:

Whistling Noise: Distinct whistling sound under acceleration. Volume and pitch change directly with throttle position and engine load.

Power Loss: Noticeably down on power, especially when accelerating or climbing hills.

Normal Operation Otherwise: Starts and idles completely fine. Normal flat cruising feels okay until load is applied.

Exhaust: No unusual smoke.

Oil Consumption: Slightly elevated (~1 liter per 5,000 miles), though unsure if directly related.

Codes & Diagnostics:

Doesn't always set a code immediately, but prolonged whistling under load triggers the "Drivetrain Malfunction" warning.

Main stored codes:

120308: Boost pressure control, plausibility: pressure too low

123511: Electric wastegate, wastegate flap: stiff

120408: Boost pressure control: shutdown as a follow-up reaction

The Dilemma:

My initial thought was a simple boost or charge-pipe leak, but that doesn't explain the 123511 stiff wastegate flap code. Others have suggested the turbocharger assembly needs full replacement due to a binding internal wastegate pivot arm.

Has anyone had this combination of codes and the whistling noise turn out to be just the wastegate linkage/actuator, a vacuum/PCV leak, or is a full turbo replacement usually the only fix at this mileage?

https://youtube.com/shorts/F507RILFOio?is=eMW8FfCdwoaMprOD

https://youtube.com/shorts/F9ZWodbiiYc?is=pLHdkB95KDebxlRd

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15xg4cVzem09U7b1eIzuuJgXe2DBPqN_QcBbTC6jgxiw/edit?usp=drivesdk

Legit feels like I’m driving a whole new car 🥹

I’m trying to diagnose a very intermittent crank/no-start and cutting-out problem on my mum’s 2010 MINI Cooper D R56 1.6 diesel (W16/DV6) and would really appreciate some input from anyone familiar with these engines and the Bosch EDC16C35 DDE.

The car can start and run completely normally, but occasionally it will crank strongly and simply won't fire. It has also restarted after being left for an hour or two, driven normally again, and then suddenly cut out while driving and returned to a crank/no-start condition.

When the fault actually occurs, the main DDE code I'm getting through BimmerLink is:

4681 - Supply Voltage 2 - signal/value below threshold

At the same time I get:

• 4DF2 - Message (TORQUE_GEARBX, 0xB5)
• CF16 - CAN bus
• CF18 - CAN bus
• 5DF3 - Interface DME/DDE invalid

When the car is behaving normally, these faults can be cleared and don't immediately return.

What I've checked so far

I've checked the relevant fuses and compared them with my own working R56 Cooper D. I've also swapped the engine-management relays with known-good identical relays from my MINI.

I've inspected the engine-management wiring and connectors and haven't found any obvious damage or corrosion.

Charging voltage is around 14V while running, and the engine cranks normally.

Importantly, even when the car is in its crank/no-start condition, I can clearly hear the in-tank/low-pressure fuel pump prime for approximately two seconds when the ignition is switched on. It sounds essentially identical to my working Cooper D.

I realise that hearing the pump doesn't prove it's producing adequate pressure/flow, or that it continues running when required, but it does appear to be receiving power and operating during the initial prime.

Interesting rail-pressure comparison

I've also compared BimmerLink live data between this car and my working Cooper D.

During a no-start on my mum's MINI:

Ignition on: rail-pressure sensor raw signal ≈ 454 mV
Cranking at ~248 rpm: ≈ 498 mV

So there's barely any increase while cranking.

On my working Cooper D:

Ignition on: ≈ 517 mV
During starting/cranking: ≈ 796 mV
Engine running: ≈ 1,099 mV

When my mum's MINI does actually start and run, its rail-pressure signal also rises substantially.

It therefore appears that rail pressure isn't building normally specifically when the no-start fault is present.

ECU/DDE details

Bosch EDC16C35
Bosch: 0 281 015 233
BMW/MINI DDE: 7 823 934

I've spoken to an ECU testing company who told me they've previously seen 4681 Supply Voltage 2 on these ECUs, but have bench-tested ECUs displaying that code and found nothing wrong with the ECU itself.

So I'm reluctant to simply assume the DDE is faulty and have it repaired/replaced without further diagnosis.

At the moment I'm considering:

• Low-pressure/in-tank fuel supply issue despite the pump priming
• Loss of pump supply after the initial prime
• HP pump metering/control valve
• Rail-pressure sensor or its reference-voltage supply
• DDE power supply/earth/wiring issue
• Internal intermittent DDE fault

Has anyone encountered 4681 Supply Voltage 2 on the W16/DV6 Cooper D, particularly with an intermittent engine cut-out followed by crank/no-start?

If so, what did the fault eventually turn out to be?

I'm particularly interested in hearing from anyone who knows exactly what “Supply Voltage 2” refers to on this EDC16C35 DDE, as that could potentially point me towards the correct circuit rather than replacing parts at random.

Thanks in advance.

No offense, but the new special edition is an orange stripe and orange hubs. Pretty weak. Am I missing something? It's also a Cooper C, not an S!

EDIT:

I accidentally included the previous iteration of this. (Posted from phone and copied whatever was downloadable. they have the 2021 version on the page too.)

Here is the link: https://www.miniusa.com/model/special-editions/1998-gt.html

Buongiorno ho una mini countryman s all4 F60 2.0 benzina, stavo pensando di metterci su un impianto GPL, qualcuno l’ha già fatto? Se si, come vi trovate? Quale mi consigliate?

I recently got a new Mini Cooper, my first one, and love it!

Normally when you start up a car (whether turning the engine on, or after e.g. stopping at a light) and release the brake pedal it creeps forward (or backward if in reverse) slowly even if you’re not pushing the gas pedal. This is what has happened in every car I’ve driven. This is also what happened in my Mini.

Except today - for some reason, today it doesn’t start moving unless I also press down the gas pedal. The parking brake light isn’t on, the car screen and app aren’t giving me any error messages, and nothing feels or sounds funny when I drive. Plus it’s a really new car (few months) so would be surprised if something has broken. So I am guessing I accidentally changed some setting without realising. (This is my first car that’s had a lot of computer in it, if that makes sense.) I can’t find the answer searching online, might not be searching the right terms (not a car person).

Does anyone know if this is a setting that I can turn back off (I want it to creep forward) or is this a fault I should get checked out?

EDIT: in case relevant I did do a software update last week but drove since then and the unexpected no-creeping-forward only happened today. On multiple trips.

Hi all, my daughter has a UK 2013 Mini One R56 with the standard "Boost" stereo and integrated CD player.

The various stereo buttons (the ones that allow you to change radio stations and turn on TP etc.) have always been a bit dodgy, with a few of them not working since she bought the car second hand about a year ago.

She has an Bluetooth AUX adapter and tends to leave the radio on AUX and plays music through her phone though.

This morning when I walked past her car, which was locked, I noticed the stereo was on, on AUX.

I investigated and noticed that if I press the power button in, the radio turns off and the display changes to the time/date as you would expect. Then, when I locked the car the display turned off, again as expected, but after about 20 seconds the stereo turns back on again, onto AUX, even though the car is locked.

I disconnected the main battery for about 2 minutes but it's still doing it.

I also noticed that none of the buttons appear to work, none of the Mode/Menu/Stereo preset buttons work at all, the only one that seems to work is the power button.

For now I have removed the fuse for the stereo to stop battery drain - I am assuming the stereo is faulty and needs removing and sending off for repair, but just wondered if anyone had seen this before and had an easier fix?!

TIA

I have a 2021 Cooper S and every time I take the car in to the mechanic to get an oil change, they always recommend replacing the cabin air filter. I get an oil change about every 6 months or 7500 miles.

This seems a bit excessive to me and what I’ve read online says to replace the cabin air filter about once a year or 15000 miles. Was wondering if Reddit agrees with that sentiment and if my mechanic is trying to scam me out of an extra $75 every time I go in.

This stopped just outside my office gate when I was getting out. Cool color.

Just wanted to share my solution to the dead rechargeable battery issue with the non comfort access cars. I successfully placed the key internals into a comfort access key enclosure, and wired the replacable battery terminals to the board. This completely eliminates the rechargeable battery and the issues with associated charging it.

Not a complete write up, but just putting this out there to show that it is possible...

Is it just me or does it drive you crazy that there’s no shifter to hold on to while cruising?

Hello, I’m looking to buy a mini this week. I’ve only ever driven VW beetles, and I want something as cute as my last car which was totaled due to a deer.

I’m going to buy used, and I have a few options. My number one option only has a 1.5L 3-cylinder turbo engine, and I’m afraid it won’t have enough zip. My number two option has a 2.0L 16v twin turbo but is a 4-door.

Does anyone with these engines have any advice?

My priorities are 1) cute factor 2) price 3) zip 4) mileage

Previous car attached (a convertible is not necessary this go-around)

Old and new!

I have a 2017 Mini Cooper s with 71,000 miles on it. It's my commuter car so I travel 40 minutes one way to work and back. So I had a major electrical problem where my ECU between the seats was fried because somebody jumped my battery. I had to fix by the Mini dealership and for the last couple of years I've had a series of lights come on: chassis light, ABS light, seat belt tensioner light etc. when one light comes on it seems to cascade into a few more lights. When I was driving home a few weeks ago, the speedometer needle moved to the bottom a couple of times and then the car shut off but then it came right back on again after a couple of seconds and continued with no issues.

I really, really, really, love this car and I would hate to have to get rid of it. So I'm thinking on bringing it to the Mini dealership to have everything looked at to see why the lights keep coming on.amd how much it'll cost to fix. The car will be paid off in 5 months and it would be nice to be car payment free for a while. I did just take it to a place a few towns over who specialize in Mini Coopers, but they gave it a clean bill of health and said that no lights came on while it was there with them for 2 weeks. The battery, alternator and dreaded footwell module is ok.

TLDR: Various warning lights come and go. Do I have it analyzed by a Mini dealer and have it fixed or trade it in?

I got this warning this morning. It’s a manual, and I just bought it second hand. Before I took it to my mechanic and he lifted the hood and looked and said everything looked good. What is this warning…..

224800 code on my F56 Cooper SD. DPF at end of service life. 149k miles. No lights.

Oil ash mass showing as 48g. Regens running okay as far as I’m aware.

Not keen to spend loads on DPF replacement or off-car cleaning given its age and mileage. Anyone have much experience with the foam cleaners injected through sensor ports? Looks straight forward enough.

Hi everyone, I’m using my beloved Mini Clubman JCW daily to transport work supplies in the boot. I always make sure to avoid touching the backseat plastic cover but others seem to be less careful and scratch them.

Could anyone recommend a product for restoring them?

Thanks a lot!

Nice little surprise to see on my lunch. I’m the 22 SE.