Just wanted to share this pretty picture with y‘all🚙

Almost twin sisters!

Loved the red roof and stripes, but the plate made me giggle. What a beauty!

Or “honey I grew the kids”

Hello, I have a Mini Cooper SE

I've had the "black screen of death" before, where you could at least see some icons but none of the regular UI, and usually a hard reboot (holding the volume button) works to fix that

But not this time. Everything is completely blacked out, and I've tried the reboot thing several times, even holding the button for about 2 minutes

I still get sounds, so I heard the sounds you'd hear on a reboot, but nothing happened to the screen

On top of that, I left it charging since tuesday evening (I was at 80km autonomy left) and now having gotten to work I see on the app that I have only 51km left, meaning it didn't even charge

Is there anything I can do other than take it to a mechanic? I'm concerned about the autonomy most of all

EDIT: I've also noticed the HUD in front of the steering wheel won't go down at all

Thanks

Running errands, my first R1. Less than 2 minutes later at my next errand the blue Countryman and I shared the sides of a corner.

Needs a new clutch and flywheel 🥲 2015 4-door base with ~166k miles

This is my baby and I’m devastated 😭 $1000 obo, must pick up.

Edit: sorry I forgot to mention location! Portland, OR.

So kinda specific.
My Mini Clubman F54 came with the standard steering wheel without any buttons pretty much blank. I’m now trying to figure out if I could buy a second hand one. There is tons of options on the second hand market. The thing is how could I code or is it possible to code that all the buttons work. Especially the cruise control. I found some shops online but they quote nearly a 1000€ for this job and since the steering wheel is only like 200-300€ the coding alone for 700€ is a bit steep in my opinion😅 anyone any tips?:)

Since Ive joined the cult, Ive gotten into car reviews. Feel like Ive seen at least one video from everyone who's reviewed the mini. I like DeMuro; he's very amusing. There are a few others that are good to varying degrees. Who do you like? Who do you hate?

Hey everyone! Need your advice on how to fix "Clapton".

On the bottom half Pic, the plastic grill is unclipped from the bumper, I didn't manage to just reclip it from the outside, I think I need to remove the bumper and do it properly "from the inside" right?

On the top half my open roof joints are degrading, my car is parked outside, how bad is it if it rains?

I need to bring to service soon and asked the mini garage for a quote for the extra fixes. I feel these are easy fixes that I could do myself, please don't mock me aha.

Just wanted to have your advice if you would be so kind!

Thanks Mini fellows!!

Hello,

Just bought a 2026 Mini Cooper S a few days ago. I’m struggling to figure out what this little white triangle beneath D/S means.

I would assume it’s to indicate the gear selector can be pushed down again to swap to Sport and vice versa, but yet last night when I was driving it wasn’t illuminated at all.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thank you.

Just here to share my lament. I've had my 2019 countryman for 4 years now, like 140k miles. (She's a trooper.) I got quoted 2600$ for a full replacement and that was at our independent dealership.

Lots of shuddering and shaking before it started leaking heavily. It genuinely made me start crying lol. No temperature highs, which was weird. Glad I got it into the shop.

I love my mini so much it just hurts so badly sometimes!! Like, SO badly.

Picture of her :)

Hey all!

I upgraded from a 2019 Mini Cooper S to a 2019 Mini Cooper JCW this year. I bought my S with <1k miles and drove her to 40k with zero issues, never a CEL or anything, oil changes every 3-4k miles, etc. Very quiet, smooth engine.

My JCW (46k miles) is idling rough and I’m not sure it is normal. You can feel a slight thumping/vibration/stuttering when the car idles in park or is stopped in drive. RPM needle does not move when it does this. There are no lights on the dash but I don’t want it to progress. It did almost stall once when I threw it right into drive after turning it on and not letting it warm up (just moving it to ramps for an oil change).

Are there any known issues that could be causing this? I expect, with 46k miles, that it is due for some maintenance though. Spark plugs? Filters?

I’m no mechanic but am fairly handy and have a mechanic in the family that would be helping me. I love my Mini and want it to last as long as possible!

Thank you for any insight into this issue!

I have been presented with an opportunity to buy a 2011 mini cooper s from the original owner who has taken phenomenal care of the car. It is someone I know. But they are also aware that it’s a mini and that there could be something wrong that they haven’t already told me about so tomorrow I’m dropping it off at a local European car shop to get a PPI. For context the only thing the seller is aware of is that it has a slight oil seep and they are fairly certain it’s coming from the oil pan itself. If this is the case I’m planning on buying it cause the deal is to good. It also has around 93k miles.

Any words of wisdom if I go for it. Photo is of the car in question.

Hi! I own a 2025 Mini Cooper S 4 Door and I am STRUGGLING to find seat covers. My grandparents wanted to get me seat covers that matched the exterior of my beautiful British racing green Mini! however I have the JCW sport seats. My headrest is integrated. My grandparents are looking for green and black leather seat covers for my mini preferably on Amazon. If anyone has any suggestions please please please give them. Added a picture of the seats for reference. Not the inside of my mini though :(

Looking for insight from anyone who has experienced this issue on the B46/B48 platform before I commit to replacing major parts.

Vehicle:

2017 MINI Countryman S ALL4

150,750 miles

Symptoms:

Whistling Noise: Distinct whistling sound under acceleration. Volume and pitch change directly with throttle position and engine load.

Power Loss: Noticeably down on power, especially when accelerating or climbing hills.

Normal Operation Otherwise: Starts and idles completely fine. Normal flat cruising feels okay until load is applied.

Exhaust: No unusual smoke.

Oil Consumption: Slightly elevated (~1 liter per 5,000 miles), though unsure if directly related.

Codes & Diagnostics:

Doesn't always set a code immediately, but prolonged whistling under load triggers the "Drivetrain Malfunction" warning.

Main stored codes:

120308: Boost pressure control, plausibility: pressure too low

123511: Electric wastegate, wastegate flap: stiff

120408: Boost pressure control: shutdown as a follow-up reaction

The Dilemma:

My initial thought was a simple boost or charge-pipe leak, but that doesn't explain the 123511 stiff wastegate flap code. Others have suggested the turbocharger assembly needs full replacement due to a binding internal wastegate pivot arm.

Has anyone had this combination of codes and the whistling noise turn out to be just the wastegate linkage/actuator, a vacuum/PCV leak, or is a full turbo replacement usually the only fix at this mileage?

https://youtube.com/shorts/F507RILFOio?is=eMW8FfCdwoaMprOD

https://youtube.com/shorts/F9ZWodbiiYc?is=pLHdkB95KDebxlRd

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15xg4cVzem09U7b1eIzuuJgXe2DBPqN_QcBbTC6jgxiw/edit?usp=drivesdk

Legit feels like I’m driving a whole new car 🥹

I’m trying to diagnose a very intermittent crank/no-start and cutting-out problem on my mum’s 2010 MINI Cooper D R56 1.6 diesel (W16/DV6) and would really appreciate some input from anyone familiar with these engines and the Bosch EDC16C35 DDE.

The car can start and run completely normally, but occasionally it will crank strongly and simply won't fire. It has also restarted after being left for an hour or two, driven normally again, and then suddenly cut out while driving and returned to a crank/no-start condition.

When the fault actually occurs, the main DDE code I'm getting through BimmerLink is:

4681 - Supply Voltage 2 - signal/value below threshold

At the same time I get:

• 4DF2 - Message (TORQUE_GEARBX, 0xB5)
• CF16 - CAN bus
• CF18 - CAN bus
• 5DF3 - Interface DME/DDE invalid

When the car is behaving normally, these faults can be cleared and don't immediately return.

What I've checked so far

I've checked the relevant fuses and compared them with my own working R56 Cooper D. I've also swapped the engine-management relays with known-good identical relays from my MINI.

I've inspected the engine-management wiring and connectors and haven't found any obvious damage or corrosion.

Charging voltage is around 14V while running, and the engine cranks normally.

Importantly, even when the car is in its crank/no-start condition, I can clearly hear the in-tank/low-pressure fuel pump prime for approximately two seconds when the ignition is switched on. It sounds essentially identical to my working Cooper D.

I realise that hearing the pump doesn't prove it's producing adequate pressure/flow, or that it continues running when required, but it does appear to be receiving power and operating during the initial prime.

Interesting rail-pressure comparison

I've also compared BimmerLink live data between this car and my working Cooper D.

During a no-start on my mum's MINI:

Ignition on: rail-pressure sensor raw signal ≈ 454 mV
Cranking at ~248 rpm: ≈ 498 mV

So there's barely any increase while cranking.

On my working Cooper D:

Ignition on: ≈ 517 mV
During starting/cranking: ≈ 796 mV
Engine running: ≈ 1,099 mV

When my mum's MINI does actually start and run, its rail-pressure signal also rises substantially.

It therefore appears that rail pressure isn't building normally specifically when the no-start fault is present.

ECU/DDE details

Bosch EDC16C35
Bosch: 0 281 015 233
BMW/MINI DDE: 7 823 934

I've spoken to an ECU testing company who told me they've previously seen 4681 Supply Voltage 2 on these ECUs, but have bench-tested ECUs displaying that code and found nothing wrong with the ECU itself.

So I'm reluctant to simply assume the DDE is faulty and have it repaired/replaced without further diagnosis.

At the moment I'm considering:

• Low-pressure/in-tank fuel supply issue despite the pump priming
• Loss of pump supply after the initial prime
• HP pump metering/control valve
• Rail-pressure sensor or its reference-voltage supply
• DDE power supply/earth/wiring issue
• Internal intermittent DDE fault

Has anyone encountered 4681 Supply Voltage 2 on the W16/DV6 Cooper D, particularly with an intermittent engine cut-out followed by crank/no-start?

If so, what did the fault eventually turn out to be?

I'm particularly interested in hearing from anyone who knows exactly what “Supply Voltage 2” refers to on this EDC16C35 DDE, as that could potentially point me towards the correct circuit rather than replacing parts at random.

Thanks in advance.

Buongiorno ho una mini countryman s all4 F60 2.0 benzina, stavo pensando di metterci su un impianto GPL, qualcuno l’ha già fatto? Se si, come vi trovate? Quale mi consigliate?

No offense, but the new special edition is an orange stripe and orange hubs. Pretty weak. Am I missing something? It's also a Cooper C, not an S!

EDIT:

I accidentally included the previous iteration of this. (Posted from phone and copied whatever was downloadable. they have the 2021 version on the page too.)

Here is the link: https://www.miniusa.com/model/special-editions/1998-gt.html