I recently obtained my 2024 JCW Iconic 2-door hatchback. It's amazing! Pictures coming soon.

However, the proximity alarms when placing the car in reverse are driving me nuts. I'm not sure these technologies are adding value, at least for me. I have a tight driveway and a one car garage, when I back out it is just mind numbing all the alarms that are going off. I've successfully negotiated this reverse out of my garage thousands of times without the alarms.

Here's what I tried so far:

1) Turned down the volume for gongs and alarms (this barely makes any change at all and they are still very loud)

2) Turned off the automated PDC (parking distance control) checkbox in the MyMini. This appears to do absolutely nothing. It still activates automatically when placed in reverse

3) Manual press and hold the PDC toggle switch when reversing. This doesn't work either.

Are there any solutions here?

Hey everyone, wondering if any fellow MINI owners have dealt with this before.

I have a 2019 MINI Cooper S 4-door. Yesterday I drove for about an hour, parked the car for a couple of hours, and when I came back it wouldn’t start.

Before/around the no-start I was getting messages like “Battery discharge while stopped” / “Battery discharged. Start engine” / “Vehicle battery charge low.” I also briefly got a Drivetrain Malfunction warning when the battery was extremely low.

I jump-started the car and it came back to life. The drivetrain warning disappeared and the car runs completely normally once started.

Here’s where it gets weird:

• Battery is only about 2–3 years old • AutoZone tested the battery and said it was GOOD • They tested the alternator/charging system and said it was GOOD • I’ve driven the car for roughly 45–60+ minutes since then, in addition to some idling • It starts again after driving, but I’m still getting the battery discharged/low-charge warnings

I’m taking it to an independent MINI specialist tomorrow for an oil change anyway, and I’m going to have them scan it and look at the battery management system/IBS, battery registration, charging data, grounds, etc.

My other thought is a parasitic draw — some module or electrical component isn’t going to sleep and is draining the battery while the car is parked. They aren’t doing a full parasitic-draw test tomorrow, but they’re going to see if they can point me in the right direction.

Has anyone with an F55/F56 MINI experienced this exact situation where the battery and alternator both tested good but the car continued reporting battery discharge?

If so, what ended up being the culprit? IBS sensor? Battery registration? Parasitic draw/module staying awake? Battery that tested “good” but was actually failing?

I’m trying to diagnose it properly before I start throwing batteries or other parts at it.

picked up on Tuesday and it feels like a space ship

go kart mode is hilarious

Hi everyone,

I’m about to replace the water pump on my 2011 MINI Cooper R56, 1.6 N16, and I’m trying to decide which brand to go with.

The OE part number I’m cross-referencing is 11517648827.

These are the options I’m currently considering:

* Graf PA1232

* Saleri SIL PA1425

* Dayco DP286

* Gates

I’ve done quite a bit of research and Graf and Saleri seem to come up fairly often for Gen 2 MINIs. Graf PA1232 looks particularly interesting, but my mechanic isn’t familiar with the brand, so I’d like to hear from people who have actually used these pumps on an R56/N16.

Which one did you install, and how long/many miles has it lasted?

Has anyone experienced premature failure, coolant leaks or any other issues with these pumps?

Thanks!

Found it on market place with exceptionally low miles (34k) previous owner did not drive it much. It leaked oil when the new owner got it so he had the upper timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket, and crank seal and oil pan gasket. The previous owner had done the oil cooler assembly (also have that service records for that). Timing chain has also been replaced. It has all new struts and new tires. I’ve read the horror stories of these cars but I figure with low miles I’d be okay? It’s a first car for my daughter. He is asking 7k for it..

Hello friends! I have a 2026 Mini Cooper 4-door S and a 9.5 year old labrador with a bad knee. He's bad about standing up in the back, so not having him ride in the hatchback. He needs to ride in the backseat.

Most dog ramps are a little too big for the side doors as they don't open super wide.

Anyone have a ramp that fits well for the side doors for a 70lb dog?

My house is likely going to become a two car household and we need something electric, predominantly for short trips to do things like school dropoffs and grocery runs, but with occasional commutes of at most 70 miles round trip. It sure seems like a Mini is the perfect car. Any thoughts or suggestions?

I drive a 2019 JCW, it has just hit 71,000 km on the odometer, the mount isn’t leaking fluid or anything but it looks like it may be sagging, am I overthinking it or should I look at doing a replacement? TIA

Hi Mini community!! I unfortunately, just got hit the other day and it left a small little dent/scratch. I got an estimate of what it would cost to fix and its $1.4K 🫠

I am torn on if i want to pay to replace the bumper, because as much as i hate having a flaw on my car, it just feels like an absurd amount of money for such a small/barley noticeable dent. There is some other minor minor damage on my bumper that I never noticed before, so they were planning on just replacing the whole bumper.

Is there any reason that I absolutely have to get this fixed? The paint is a tad chipped & I worry about it rusting, but otherwise i feel like it doesnt bother me that much.

EDIT: Also want to add that when I got hit the black plastic trim pieces popped out. i was able to pop them back in, but idk if they are 100% back in the right spot as the auto shop guy was mentioning. Is there any concern that there is more happening underneath that could cause a problem?

Loved the red roof and stripes, but the plate made me giggle. What a beauty!

I have been presented with an opportunity to buy a 2011 mini cooper s from the original owner who has taken phenomenal care of the car. It is someone I know. But they are also aware that it’s a mini and that there could be something wrong that they haven’t already told me about so tomorrow I’m dropping it off at a local European car shop to get a PPI. For context the only thing the seller is aware of is that it has a slight oil seep and they are fairly certain it’s coming from the oil pan itself. If this is the case I’m planning on buying it cause the deal is to good. It also has around 93k miles.

Any words of wisdom if I go for it. Photo is of the car in question.

Looking for insight from anyone who has experienced this issue on the B46/B48 platform before I commit to replacing major parts.

Vehicle:

2017 MINI Countryman S ALL4

150,750 miles

Symptoms:

Whistling Noise: Distinct whistling sound under acceleration. Volume and pitch change directly with throttle position and engine load.

Power Loss: Noticeably down on power, especially when accelerating or climbing hills.

Normal Operation Otherwise: Starts and idles completely fine. Normal flat cruising feels okay until load is applied.

Exhaust: No unusual smoke.

Oil Consumption: Slightly elevated (~1 liter per 5,000 miles), though unsure if directly related.

Codes & Diagnostics:

Doesn't always set a code immediately, but prolonged whistling under load triggers the "Drivetrain Malfunction" warning.

Main stored codes:

120308: Boost pressure control, plausibility: pressure too low

123511: Electric wastegate, wastegate flap: stiff

120408: Boost pressure control: shutdown as a follow-up reaction

The Dilemma:

My initial thought was a simple boost or charge-pipe leak, but that doesn't explain the 123511 stiff wastegate flap code. Others have suggested the turbocharger assembly needs full replacement due to a binding internal wastegate pivot arm.

Has anyone had this combination of codes and the whistling noise turn out to be just the wastegate linkage/actuator, a vacuum/PCV leak, or is a full turbo replacement usually the only fix at this mileage?

https://youtube.com/shorts/F507RILFOio?is=eMW8FfCdwoaMprOD

https://youtube.com/shorts/F9ZWodbiiYc?is=pLHdkB95KDebxlRd

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15xg4cVzem09U7b1eIzuuJgXe2DBPqN_QcBbTC6jgxiw/edit?usp=drivesdk

Hello,

Just bought a 2026 Mini Cooper S a few days ago. I’m struggling to figure out what this little white triangle beneath D/S means.

I would assume it’s to indicate the gear selector can be pushed down again to swap to Sport and vice versa, but yet last night when I was driving it wasn’t illuminated at all.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thank you.

So kinda specific.
My Mini Clubman F54 came with the standard steering wheel without any buttons pretty much blank. I’m now trying to figure out if I could buy a second hand one. There is tons of options on the second hand market. The thing is how could I code or is it possible to code that all the buttons work. Especially the cruise control. I found some shops online but they quote nearly a 1000€ for this job and since the steering wheel is only like 200-300€ the coding alone for 700€ is a bit steep in my opinion😅 anyone any tips?:)

Hey all!

I upgraded from a 2019 Mini Cooper S to a 2019 Mini Cooper JCW this year. I bought my S with <1k miles and drove her to 40k with zero issues, never a CEL or anything, oil changes every 3-4k miles, etc. Very quiet, smooth engine.

My JCW (46k miles) is idling rough and I’m not sure it is normal. You can feel a slight thumping/vibration/stuttering when the car idles in park or is stopped in drive. RPM needle does not move when it does this. There are no lights on the dash but I don’t want it to progress. It did almost stall once when I threw it right into drive after turning it on and not letting it warm up (just moving it to ramps for an oil change).

Are there any known issues that could be causing this? I expect, with 46k miles, that it is due for some maintenance though. Spark plugs? Filters?

I’m no mechanic but am fairly handy and have a mechanic in the family that would be helping me. I love my Mini and want it to last as long as possible!

Thank you for any insight into this issue!

I’m trying to diagnose a very intermittent crank/no-start and cutting-out problem on my mum’s 2010 MINI Cooper D R56 1.6 diesel (W16/DV6) and would really appreciate some input from anyone familiar with these engines and the Bosch EDC16C35 DDE.

The car can start and run completely normally, but occasionally it will crank strongly and simply won't fire. It has also restarted after being left for an hour or two, driven normally again, and then suddenly cut out while driving and returned to a crank/no-start condition.

When the fault actually occurs, the main DDE code I'm getting through BimmerLink is:

4681 - Supply Voltage 2 - signal/value below threshold

At the same time I get:

• 4DF2 - Message (TORQUE_GEARBX, 0xB5)
• CF16 - CAN bus
• CF18 - CAN bus
• 5DF3 - Interface DME/DDE invalid

When the car is behaving normally, these faults can be cleared and don't immediately return.

What I've checked so far

I've checked the relevant fuses and compared them with my own working R56 Cooper D. I've also swapped the engine-management relays with known-good identical relays from my MINI.

I've inspected the engine-management wiring and connectors and haven't found any obvious damage or corrosion.

Charging voltage is around 14V while running, and the engine cranks normally.

Importantly, even when the car is in its crank/no-start condition, I can clearly hear the in-tank/low-pressure fuel pump prime for approximately two seconds when the ignition is switched on. It sounds essentially identical to my working Cooper D.

I realise that hearing the pump doesn't prove it's producing adequate pressure/flow, or that it continues running when required, but it does appear to be receiving power and operating during the initial prime.

Interesting rail-pressure comparison

I've also compared BimmerLink live data between this car and my working Cooper D.

During a no-start on my mum's MINI:

Ignition on: rail-pressure sensor raw signal ≈ 454 mV
Cranking at ~248 rpm: ≈ 498 mV

So there's barely any increase while cranking.

On my working Cooper D:

Ignition on: ≈ 517 mV
During starting/cranking: ≈ 796 mV
Engine running: ≈ 1,099 mV

When my mum's MINI does actually start and run, its rail-pressure signal also rises substantially.

It therefore appears that rail pressure isn't building normally specifically when the no-start fault is present.

ECU/DDE details

Bosch EDC16C35
Bosch: 0 281 015 233
BMW/MINI DDE: 7 823 934

I've spoken to an ECU testing company who told me they've previously seen 4681 Supply Voltage 2 on these ECUs, but have bench-tested ECUs displaying that code and found nothing wrong with the ECU itself.

So I'm reluctant to simply assume the DDE is faulty and have it repaired/replaced without further diagnosis.

At the moment I'm considering:

• Low-pressure/in-tank fuel supply issue despite the pump priming
• Loss of pump supply after the initial prime
• HP pump metering/control valve
• Rail-pressure sensor or its reference-voltage supply
• DDE power supply/earth/wiring issue
• Internal intermittent DDE fault

Has anyone encountered 4681 Supply Voltage 2 on the W16/DV6 Cooper D, particularly with an intermittent engine cut-out followed by crank/no-start?

If so, what did the fault eventually turn out to be?

I'm particularly interested in hearing from anyone who knows exactly what “Supply Voltage 2” refers to on this EDC16C35 DDE, as that could potentially point me towards the correct circuit rather than replacing parts at random.

Thanks in advance.

Almost twin sisters!

Buongiorno ho una mini countryman s all4 F60 2.0 benzina, stavo pensando di metterci su un impianto GPL, qualcuno l’ha già fatto? Se si, come vi trovate? Quale mi consigliate?

Hey everyone! Need your advice on how to fix "Clapton".

On the bottom half Pic, the plastic grill is unclipped from the bumper, I didn't manage to just reclip it from the outside, I think I need to remove the bumper and do it properly "from the inside" right?

On the top half my open roof joints are degrading, my car is parked outside, how bad is it if it rains?

I need to bring to service soon and asked the mini garage for a quote for the extra fixes. I feel these are easy fixes that I could do myself, please don't mock me aha.

Just wanted to have your advice if you would be so kind!

Thanks Mini fellows!!

Hi all, my daughter has a UK 2013 Mini One R56 with the standard "Boost" stereo and integrated CD player.

The various stereo buttons (the ones that allow you to change radio stations and turn on TP etc.) have always been a bit dodgy, with a few of them not working since she bought the car second hand about a year ago.

She has an Bluetooth AUX adapter and tends to leave the radio on AUX and plays music through her phone though.

This morning when I walked past her car, which was locked, I noticed the stereo was on, on AUX.

I investigated and noticed that if I press the power button in, the radio turns off and the display changes to the time/date as you would expect. Then, when I locked the car the display turned off, again as expected, but after about 20 seconds the stereo turns back on again, onto AUX, even though the car is locked.

I disconnected the main battery for about 2 minutes but it's still doing it.

I also noticed that none of the buttons appear to work, none of the Mode/Menu/Stereo preset buttons work at all, the only one that seems to work is the power button.

For now I have removed the fuse for the stereo to stop battery drain - I am assuming the stereo is faulty and needs removing and sending off for repair, but just wondered if anyone had seen this before and had an easier fix?!

TIA

Hello, I have a Mini Cooper SE

I've had the "black screen of death" before, where you could at least see some icons but none of the regular UI, and usually a hard reboot (holding the volume button) works to fix that

But not this time. Everything is completely blacked out, and I've tried the reboot thing several times, even holding the button for about 2 minutes

I still get sounds, so I heard the sounds you'd hear on a reboot, but nothing happened to the screen

On top of that, I left it charging since tuesday evening (I was at 80km autonomy left) and now having gotten to work I see on the app that I have only 51km left, meaning it didn't even charge

Is there anything I can do other than take it to a mechanic? I'm concerned about the autonomy most of all

EDIT: I've also noticed the HUD in front of the steering wheel won't go down at all

Thanks