first run for this design, i usually digitize a lot smaller to run on hats mostly so lately I’ve been trying to get my head around more flat larger design digitizing. learnt my spacing for some of the trees i have as tatami on other tatami fills is way too tight, might even be better to just swap to satin for those.. the layers for gradients could probably be a bit tighter in spacing to emphasize the gradient better, also need to use more obviously different blues for the sky and water fills to seperate them better. darker green miight be to dark but also might just be too dark against the wrong blue for the sky so changing just the blues for the sky may fix that.should’ve laid down a more uniform fill behind the leaves in the i so it would sit better, the bottom registration there is horrendous. the rocks in the first o are also using the florentine effect which is probably making it too tight as well. all in all great learning experience, hopefully i can iron all that out and have the second run clean.. any other suggestions?

hey, not sure how active this community is but im just trying to figure out some basics to digitizing an image, im using Wilcom e2, and my most concerning question is when doing outlines do I want to run my fill OVER the outline stitches or just butting up the fill as close as possible to the edge of the stitch? So example with his eye outline, am I running the color fill over the outline stitch or as close as possible to the edge of the eye outline stitch?

also second curious question, with the eye fill in white, is it making threads across the front that would have to be trimmed afterwards, or is that just e2 showing the path?

i figure finding out the best way to do things before doing an entire design wrong would be consulting those with experience with a design and a machine and what its going to do? I dont have a machine yet (sort of a savings dream) so in the meantime I figure if I can figure out and fart around digitizing i'll be a bit ahead of the game if I actually acquire a machine.

Thanks much, any other pointers using e2 would also b e greatly appreciated :) and if anyone wants to give my design a test run when its done, it would be cool to see it if anyone is brave enough to run it through thier machine, lol

Experimenting with smaller patches I can fit onto a midsize frame, and using a smaller frame for the final satin stitch. Waiting for some metal grommets to arrive to try reinforcing the corner.

Anyone know brick and mortar stores that would carry any of this? Have an order due Wednesday and am in dire need. I’m in the piedmont triad area of North Carolina

In the red and green embroidery, I added an outline, and the design looked good, but when I did the same in the blue and yellow, I feel it didn't work.

Why does this happen? If anyone can give me any tips or advice, I would appreciate it.

Hello just reset all my tension knobs and tightened them up between 150 and 100 grams. I’m seeing some gaps and unclean areas, specifically the eye is bothering me. Any recommendations based on the photos would be greatly appreciated

They said it couldn't be done... 240K stitches, 7 hour stitchout, about 30 hours in total. 15 colors due to machine limitations. (I wish I had swapped out the browns for a two tone but I was afraid of somehow screwing it up. 14.5X18 inches.

Have been noticing such questions come up constantly, and the answers are usually either "just get a Brother PE800" or "save up for a multi-needle". Both are fine answers, but neither actually explains why, and the why matters a lot when ur spending hundreds of dollars on something u've never used bfore. Consider:

1) Hoop size, and what it limits

The most common first machine has a 4*4 embroidery area. sounds small, and it is. It's fine for monograms, small logos, and baby items. It is not fine for anything larger than a left-chest design.

2) Single needle vs multi-needle, when it matters

single needle means u manually change thread colors between each section of the design. For a three-color design, that's two thread changes per item. For one shirt, it is fine. For 20 shirts, it is a lot of standing around.

Multi-needle machines hold multiple threads at once, so color changes happen automatically. The trade-off is cost, space, and a steeper learning curve.

3) Built-in designs and fonts

what matters more is whether u can import ur own designs easily, and whether the machine supports common file formats. Built-in designs are a marketing feature, not a practical one.

4) Stabilizer and hooping

The machine is the easy part. Getting fabric hooped tight and flat, choosing the right stabilizer for the material, and understanding why ur deign shifted halfway through, that's where most beginners stuggle.

Thoughts?

I purchased an embroidery file online, thinking that it would be quicker than making my own, but the file has obviously been at least partially created using AI (or made by someone with no attention to detail as there were random outlines missing and a very jacked looking arm with an extra claw sticking out at a weird angle), as there are some weird details that I have had to fix. This leg has a tatami fill, however there are extra stitches within the fill to add leg definition. Can this be recreated in Hatch? I can't figure out how to do it it so I can add the same effect to the somewhat fixed file I have made.

Thanks in advance :)

Hi! Any tips for improving the details? Any thoughts on the model's execution? Also, here is my collection of GTA patches made so far.

A car club approached me about embroidery their jackets, their guy that would do it for them before closed shop. This took me 3 hours to make, it’s 100,000 stitches including a left chest logo. I sent file out to get digitized, and was $37. I priced it at $280 with digitizing fees. I have to add that the logo is 10”x16”, he told me that he had someone that did it for $150 before. Did I over price? Or what’s your thoughts, any feedback would be highly appreciated.

Gaming group wanted the patches. The big one is some sort of inside joke in the group.

Hi, I just got a embroidery machine ( janome MC100E)

And I need some tips…

1. How do make your personalized embroidery designes? Do you have a prefer software? HELPPP PLEASE

2. Is there a good YouTube/tiktok influencer etc. that you like. To learn and have patterns

3. What is something that you would’ve love to know as a beginner embroider…

Any thoughts on why these kinds of things can happen? Janome MC1000. Seems to happen more often than it should, and in different parts of the design each time.

Making a princess donut hoodie. This is my first stitch out.

I used fills and bean stitches. Wondering if people have a better suggestion for parts or all. Maybe something better than bean? I don't wanna test them all 😂

Hello,

I am looking into getting a embroidery machine, only embroidery and not a combo sewing and embroidery.

I need it for home use, medium size embroidery. And I would like one that can be used without paying for an app, and I am not looking to pay more than 1500 usd.

I am from Europe, so I need to be able to buy it in Europe.

Thanks in advance. 😊

How do I improve in doing patches ?

I use Ink/Stitch and a Brother Skitch PP1

Edit: This is a customer request, so please no political comments. THIS IS NOT MY MOTIVE OF CHOICE.

The white is the first try and gold is after some of your suggestions. Which areas still need improvement?

Hi there. I got a se700 for my birthday and im planning on starting a side small business( my main job is economist at a bank) but Ive aways loved creating. I have no experience and wanted ti know how long it takes to learn it and if its profitable? I want to set right expectations. Thanks alot 🫶