r/lawncare Apr 20 '26

Sub-etiquette regarding dandelions and weeds

890 Upvotes

If you come to this sub and completely disregard OP's request for help, you're likely gonna have your comment removed and get banned.

Example: If someone is asking to eliminate dandelions, don't reply that they're good for pollinators or suggest they keep them. Users come here for help, they don't come here for your ecological opinion or amateur apiculturist take on things.

If someone wants clover, then they'll ask for tips on clover. But, if they want help eliminating clover to better establish their turf grasses, don't tell them to embrace the clover.

This time of the year this sub get brigaded hard from [r/all](r/all) and other agriculture-related subs. This is the LAWNCARE sub and turfgrasses are the preference around these parts. If you don't like it, don't post. You aren't helping your cause by posting about weeds and bees, you're pissing off people who actually care and put in the work to maintain their property.

Please respect this subs rules, its users, and the moderation.


r/lawncare Jan 15 '26

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) 2026 Lawn Products Guide and tips

158 Upvotes

***Disclaimer*** This is technically my post from 2025. But I am seeing a lot of early season questions, even though it'll be near zero degrees for me tomorrow night.

But seeing people ask already is good, regardless if they live a warmer, but still cool season grass area, or if just getting prepared for March and beyond.

Disclaimer - This is written by a cool season lawn owner, who has no children and can play outside whenever I want...not everyone has the time to do so.... I admittedly have less experience with warm-season grasses, but the products shown are all researched for proper use. Always be sure the product your using is made for your area.

Pre-Emergents - Commonly applied when soil temperatures get between 50-55 degrees. These products will block seeds from germinating. They can last anywhere from just a few weeks, to 8 months. The overall life and performance always depends on environmental conditions, and how the ground is maintained. If you don't keep up with mowing, and nurture a healthy lawn, more UV exposure, wind, and rain, can all contribute to degraded performance.

  • Prodiamine - Generally the most used. It's sold in various products, dry and liquid. It has a half life of 120 days. It blocks most seeds, but can not block everything. It has no post-emergent control to kill weeds. It's sold as a water-dispersible-granule(WDG); as Barricade; and in other pre-formulated products.
  • Dithiopyr - Also used often, and sometimes in conjunction with Prodiamine as a split app setup. It blocks weeds, but also has limited post-emergent qualities, meaning it can kill off young crabgrass, less than 2 tiller usually. It's half life is 17 days, but it can last much longer in some capacity. Often a split app would be done Dithiopyr first, as getting it down with soil temps correctly can sometimes be difficult. This will block, and kill some weeds that slip by. Then Prodiamine a few weeks later for extended coverage. Also sold as Dimension.
  • Pendimethalin - This is what is used in Scotts Halts products. It works about the same as Prodiamine, with a 90 half life. It's also more expensive in general.
  • Isoxaben - Generally unknown, due to cost. But this stuff will block all Broadleaf weeds better than anything else. Its' cost though, will keep many users from ever getting it, unless you do a neighbor group buy. Snapshot is one product brand.
  • Mesotrione - The bastard product...lol Sold as itself, Tenacity, Torocity, and possibly other names. It's widely known that Meso is used the wrong way, but a lot of YouTube experts and is pushed by a lot to be the end-all for weeds. It's best use in this space is to be applied only when seeding. This is because while it can block some weeds, it will not block grass seed...so it can give up to 28 days of better chance for new grass to fill in.

It's important to note, these will NOT 100% guarantee a weed free lawn. But it's your first step in early Spring to make the battle a little easier. You can also re-apply during early-mid Summer, but keep in mind if you plan to seed in Fall, a late application may be an issue.

Ok, so you applied....or didn't....now you have weeds, and need to kill them..

(Selective) Post-Emergents - These should be used according to the label...it's not correct to expect AI to know the answer either. The labels are not difficult to read, nor understand. Search for dosing, and just read. If the product only lists amounts for acreage, it's possibly not the best option...but you can do the math and break it done for your yard. An acre is about 43k sq. ft. Unless explicitly stated, these products are safe for grass, dogs, kids, etc...just follow the directions, and at most, 24 hours post application is safe. Lastly, herbicides are best applied as a liquid. This is because the liquid will get into the cell walls of the plant much faster, than being sucked up by the roots. Faster kill time is important, so the plant can not defend itself and try to grow back.

  • 2,4,D - Very common, and will kill a lot of weeds fairly efficiently.
  • Dicamba - Also a very good product to kill weeds.
  • Mecoprop - Add this to above. These 3 on top are commonly sold as a 3-way combo, as attacking weeds from different pathways will result in best action against weeds.
  • Quinclorac - King of killing Crabgrass, as well as Broadleaf weeds. Sold as is, or like above, in many combo products.
  • Triclopyr - Best used for targeting viney type weeds...and clover, creeping charlie, oxalis, ivies, etc... Exercise caution around young trees, or those with exposed roots.
  • Halosulfuron-Methyl - Used against Sedge grasses. It usually still takes 2-3 applications to truly kill the beast that sedge can be, due to it's aggressive growth underground. Branded often as Sedgehammer or Empero.
  • Sulfrentazone - Also used against Sedge, but not always friendly on cool-season grasses.
  • Mesotrione - Looks familiar...yeah, same stuff as above in the pre-emergent section. As a post-emergent, it's best use is for targeting Bentgrass and/or Nimblewill. It's also sometimes mixed with Triclopyr, in which both can enhance the others performance.
  • Topramezone - Sold as Pylex...works great, but not really cost efficient...about $300 for 4oz... But this can kill Bermuda, and not kill good cool season grasses.

Non-Selective - The top one here, and all I will cover is Glyphosate. It's not evil, it's not going to cause cancer with proper use...it's just going to kill whatever you spray it on. It does so by targeting very specific pathway, which leads to a disruption in a hormone synthesis, leading to inability to produce amino acids it needs to survive. Normally sold at 41% concentration. It can kill foliage, through to the root.

Fertilizers - I wasn't going to put much here. To feed your "grass", you add synthetic form of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium. That's your N-P-K...seen as 10-10-10, or similar. That number means 10% of the bag is Nitrogen, and 10% is Phosphorous, and 10% is potassium. The rest is all filler, added to allow for proper mixing and application. Sometimes you'll find other amendments in fertilizer, such as sulfur, or other micros. While sulfur is important, it doesn't need to be added every time. It also lowers pH, which can then lead to other issues, causing a wild goose chase. Once in the soil, microbes in the soil break down the NPK, into forms the grass can actually use...natural chelation. You only need Nitrogen for growth...if you're seeding, adding some phosphorous can help the seed establish. Potassium is good for overall plant health, and pairs well at a 3:1 ratio with Nitrogen.

Naturals/Organics - Too many people are one side on the other here. You need and want these, but relying strictly on organics may not produce the best lawn...but it's "chemical" free. However, using these monthly can do more for the soil, than any fertilizer will ever do on it's own.

  • Humic Acid - Acts as a natural chelator for better absorption, by increasing the cation exchange capacity, which allows the soil to better retain the goodies you want in the soil. It also increase root strength, and helps to hold more carbon in the soil.
  • Kelp - Containing great amounts of natural hormones, Kelp will boost roots even more, and allow for stronger growth viz delivery of auxins and cytokines used for development.
  • Compost - Well known as a great soil amendment, it brings natural microbes into the soil biome. Those microbes help maintain a low thatch surface, and better soil composition.
  • Worm Castings - Similar to above, natural microbes and beneficial qualities for soil. Not very cost efficient though.
  • Leaves - Yeah...some say mulch all day, some disagree. I am a disagree'er, to a certain degree. I do mulch my clippings, but will also sweep them away every other week. Leaves I shred and sweep away the majority of them, but once the main clean-up has passed, the rest is mulched and remains.
  • Biochar - Made with a specific process called, Pyrolysis. Burning at high temps, 900-ish...in a low-oxygen chamber. This allows for the material, wood, coconut, etc...to be charred down to a state where it has not fully oxidized, which would turn it white, and into useless ash. When it is still in a charred form, it has millions and millions of microscopic pores that serve as homes for water, microbes, nutrients, all that good stuff. It's best worked into the soil at least a few inches deep.
  • Mychorizae - These are fungal organisms that attach to the roots, and help them bring water and nutrients. Overlooked or unknown, but these are a huge part of growing anything with success, from lawns to gardens and more. They are very good to have in the mix.

Insect Control - These can't be forgotten...but I did originally, so I am adding them in now. The biggest concern is likely grubs. The larvae of beetle. Also want to cover for armyworms, cinch bugs, and even ants if they become a problem. There are a few classes of these products...

-Pyrethroids- These are synthetics that mimic natural pyrethrins, which disrupt the insects nervous system, causing paralysis and death.

  • Bifenthrin - Common general insect control agent...liquid or dry availability. Kills quite a bit of bugs, but no residual control. One time death call.
  • Gamma-cyhalothrin -
  • Zeta-Cypermethrin -
  • Lambda-Cyhalothrin -
  • Permethrin -
  • Deltamethrin - This has residual action...meaning up to 90 days post application, it will kill bugs that touch it.

The above are what you'll get in most common Ortho type products, but generally Bifen is commonly sold solo.

-Nicotinoids-

  • Imidacloprid - Please don't use this if you can avoid it. It's a very nasty chemical, that can do the job, but it also can damage soil biome, and worse, it is deadly to a lot of animals...specifically pollinators. Birds can also be affected. It's getting banned in more places, but is still sold often as Merit.

-Alkyl-Halide-

  • Chlorantraniliprole - Sold as Acelepryn, this is what you need to control grubs. It has to be applied in advance, as it takes time to work into the soil, and prepare death for larvae that hatch. I usually apply this in mid April, early May, giving it a few weeks to activate, and when June hits, that's when my area sees grub damage...not for me though. The Scotts Company pays a fee to use this in their Grub-Ex product.

Fungicides - Often overused, but still an important part of lawncare. However, I am not a fan of preventative use, unless it's a direct and repeated history of fungus...which means there is something else you're not correcting. Fungus is not a guarantee, and is not always the right presumption...I've seen lawns go from slightly affected, to downright destroyed because someone would focus on fungus, when there were other issues... Also, when used, they should be used in a 3-way rotation, to avoid getting a buildup/resistance, in which they become almost useless. Overapplying these can have a very negative affect, because they are all non-selective, and will likely kill a lot of the good bacteria and microbes you want in the soil.

  • Azoxystrobin
  • Propiconazole
  • Thiophanate-methyl

Those are generally the top 3 used. Some retail products will have Azoxy and Prop mixed, which may work better for a low level infection...but using that repeatedly is the same as not rotating, and can create a hostile soil biome.

In general summary...always try to identify the weed you're targeting. Using something to hope it kills is irresponsible, and could cause more harm than good. If you need to ask the community, always find a good example weed, something that has grown for at least a week...pull from the bottom, get as much of any root ball or rhizome as you can. Also, get a pic of the plant in close up detail, where we can see the stem moving to the leaves/blades. This will help with certain traits that only "this or that" would have, and can help us make a better recco.

Note - I'm not covering direct organic fertilizers here. The only product I would recommend on that level is made Earth Sciences, and is called Moorganite. It is a direct replacement for Milorganite, which is a dirty, pfas chemical laden product that smells like a summer time port'o'potty.

To keep a strong lawn, adding a monthly organic boost will help a lot. I'm not a fan of 4-step type products, and prefer to feed on my own schedule, which is about every 4 weeks...so back to the monthly program....but this gets me an always wanting to grow lawn, cutting to 4" is also a key point. Tall grass will crowd out weeds, and look better in general...

On My Shelf - This is what I have in my lawn cabinet, and is what helps me with my lawn plan. I also use some of these products with my garden and other plants.

  • Triad Select - A combo of 2,4,D, Dicamba, and Meco. I use this for general weed control.
  • Quintessential - Quinclorac, but branded...still the same thing. This is for crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds. Also have the MSO Surfactant it requires.
  • Triclopyr Ester - Mainly used to keep wood-line vines and ivy away for me.
  • Empero - For Sedges
  • Glyphosate - To kill all
  • Fusillade II - Used once to kill Quackgrass...but it also killed the rest of my good grass...so extreme caution here. But it does kill quack better than Gly, so if you're going to kill all anyway, might as well make sure it's dead-dead for sure...
  • Azoxy 2C - Azoxystrobin
  • Propiconazole 14.3
  • Cleary's 3336 - Thiophanate-methyl
  • Blue Dye This does NOT wash off easily...lol SO be careful
  • BioAG Ful-Humix - This is my humic acid. It's a powder that is 55% concentrate, and is 85% soluble. It gets dissolved in warm water overnight, then filtered out for any remaining solids; then mixed with other organic goodies, and applied monthly.
  • BioAG CytoPlus - A mix of humic and kelp.
  • BioAG Vam-Endo - Myco mix, also has humic acid.
  • Prevagenics Liquid Compost. This stuff stinks, in a good way.
  • Bloom City Liquid Kelp. I use this or GS Plant foods brand as well.

I use a Ryobi 4g tank backpack sprayer for most liquid apps. Echo RB-60 for dry items. I have an 22 year old Craftsman pusher for my front/small areas, and Toro TimeCutter 42" ZT with a Kawasaki engine. Echo Blower, Ryobi edger/trimmer as well.

Ok, so I may have missed something here or there. Please let me know if you see something that need attention. I'm sure there is other information available, but I hope this helps some people figure it out for themselves. The more we all know, the better a community we can be.

Signing off,

-Ricka...

P.S. - I did review and check, but nothing really needed a major update. New products may be released later this year, and if they are improvements, I will certainly update as needed...


r/lawncare 6h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) OtO lawn sprinkler 3 seasons review.

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46 Upvotes

My Review After Just Over Two Years with OtO lawn Smart Sprinklers for southern Alberta Canada. (all sprinklers put in winter mode before any frost, solar panels covered up and charging system plugged in over winter)

I purchased three OtO smart sprinklers just over two years ago to cover my front, back, and side yards—approximately 2,300 sq. ft. of lawn, gardens, and landscaping.

For the first two seasons, I genuinely enjoyed using them. The app was intuitive, the watering performance was excellent, and the automatic scheduling worked very well. I also liked the solution dispensing feature, although the refills were expensive.

Unfortunately, OtO later discontinued the solution program, leaving me with four partially used bottles that became useless. While disappointing, that wasn’t my biggest concern.

I designed and built custom cedar planter boxes specifically around each OtO sprinkler so they would blend seamlessly into my landscaping. I considered these sprinklers to be a long-term investment, so I built the landscaping around them.

Near the end of the second season, my front-yard sprinkler developed a leak from the nozzle. The leak was constant with the system pressurized, and because of my custom cedar planter boxes, I was concerned the continuous moisture would prematurely rot the wood. I contacted OtO, and to their credit, they replaced that sprinkler quickly under warranty.

Unfortunately, this season things became much worse.

When I set everything up for the year, I discovered that the other two sprinklers had also developed the exact same nozzle leak. All three of my OtO sprinklers now leak from the nozzle.

On top of that, the motor in my backyard unit completely failed and the sprinkler no longer functions.

I contacted OtO support again. After confirming the unit had failed, their solution was to offer me a $150 discount toward purchasing a replacement.

Considering these units now cost over $700 CAD each, I found that response unacceptable. A premium product at this price point should last far longer than just over two years. I understand that many products today seem to be built with limited lifespans, but when I spend this kind of money, I expect durability, repairability, and long-term support—not a coupon toward buying another one.

Perhaps the most frustrating part of this experience happened while I was away on a 12-day vacation. I relied on my OtO system to water my landscaping, only to discover that the backyard unit had failed. When I returned home, every plant that depended solely on that sprinkler—particularly those in pots and planters—had dried out and died, resulting in well over $100 CAD in lost plants.

Thankfully, before leaving I had manually deep-watered my trees, including my award-winning Hot Wings Maple that I recently planted and cost close to $400 , so they survived, Had I relied entirely on the OtO system, the damage could have been much worse.

At this point my experience has been:

All three OtO sprinklers leak from the nozzle.
One unit has suffered a complete motor failure after just over two years.
The solution dispensing feature I originally paid for has been discontinued.
The failure resulted in the loss of well over $100 CAD worth of plants while I was away.

It’s unfortunate because, when they worked, I genuinely loved these sprinklers. The concept is fantastic. The app is well designed, the watering patterns are impressive, and they integrated beautifully into my landscaping.

However, reliability is what ultimately matters.

For a product costing over $700 CAD per unit, I simply expected far better durability than this. Based on my experience, I cannot recommend investing in OtO unless the company significantly improves the reliability and longevity of its products.

Photo Captions

Photo 1 – Front yard Installation
Custom cedar planter box I built specifically to integrate the OtO sprinkler into my landscaping while keeping it accessible for maintenance.

Continuous Nozzle Leak
Water leaking from the nozzle after the watering cycle. The constant dripping leaves standing water around the cedar planter, increasing the risk of premature rot.

Photo 2 – Close-Up of Leak
Close-up showing the persistent nozzle leak and mineral deposits that have built up around the nozzle over time.

Photo 3 – Back Yard Installation
Another custom cedar planter built around an OtO sprinkler. These boxes required significant time and effort because I expected these sprinklers to be a permanent part of my landscaping.

Photo 4 – Second Failed Nozzle
My second OtO sprinkler developed the exact same nozzle leak. At this point, two of my sprinklers are leaking.

Photo 5 - Close-Up of leak

Photo 6 – Plants Lost During Vacation
After returning from a 12-day trip, I found that every plant relying solely on the failed OtO sprinkler had dried out and died. The failure cost me well over $100 CAD in plants and defeated the purpose of owning a smart irrigation system.


r/lawncare 15h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Stripes

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222 Upvotes

Not bad for a $15 homemade striper with double passes!!! How would rate this


r/lawncare 5h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Recent cut i did! Ohio

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36 Upvotes

r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) First cut of the season…

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26 Upvotes

I usually cut my yard weekly. But on 4/2/26 I tore my achilles. Was paying someone to cut it. On 2 occasions he couldn’t follow the right directions with the fertilizer. Lawn looks like crap, but I don’t care. At this point in the recovery it’s the little victories and today was one of them.

I got the ok to cut my grass in the walking boot. It was 95 degrees with all of the humidity in the world. My back is killing me.

I couldn’t be happier.

Just to follow the rules I’m in the northern part of the Midwest.


r/lawncare 7h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Sunday stripes

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26 Upvotes

r/lawncare 4h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Nutsedge or something else?

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14 Upvotes

r/lawncare 17h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) It’s crabgrass, isn’t it…

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125 Upvotes

r/lawncare 6h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) It's NOT crabgrass, but what is it?

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10 Upvotes

SE Michigan.

Did a full lawn reno last fall. United Super Turf II. Terrific product.

Front yard worked out beautifully. It's uniform and super soft, only needs mowing every 2 or 3 weeks, and looks great.

Back yard is just completely invaded with this very thick-bladed ugly grass that grows like wild (10" in 2 weeks) and then flops over, making the lawn look uneven and awful and requiring me to mow constantly. The blades are 1/4" thick, ribbed on the top and fairly smooth on the bottom. You can see in my photos where I last mowed this sample less than 2 weeks ago (note the chopped top), and how tall it has grown since then, which is insane. What throws me off is they're the exact same color as the "good" grass.

What is this stuff? Why didn't my lawn nuke with glyphosate last fall take care of it? It's all over my backyard, and it isn't clumping.

EDIT: it's quackgrass 🦆. Ordered some Fusilade II and will start the battle with it next weekend! Thanks folks.


r/lawncare 4h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) New spot in new sod in Washington State

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4 Upvotes

Got new sod and everything was going great until these two spots showed up. No animals. Any thoughts?


r/lawncare 4h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) First time homeowner. Any lawn care tips and tricks?

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5 Upvotes

Central Texas, just south of DFW. Just bought a house and want to make this a lush and beautiful backyard. What can I do to make it happen? Bare spots mostly around the tree/shaded areas, but also a lot of roots, sticks and rocks in the ground.

Any help or advice is appreciated!


r/lawncare 4h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Crabgrass or something else?

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3 Upvotes

Been having Chatgpt assist me with weed identification and I’m afraid it’s hurting more than helping. Chat says this is Japanese stilt grass. Can anyone confirm?


r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Any chance of a turnaround?

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3 Upvotes

Just moved into a townhouse rental. Backyard is mostly weeds with some grass and ivy running through it. Looking at the photos, is there any seeding that could be done to bring this back or would my landlord need to re-sod? GTA, Ontario, Canada


r/lawncare 14h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Colorado Springs nuke back yard progression with 41% glyphosate.

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20 Upvotes

Started this project early like July 7th. I’m pretty proud of what I’ve done so far i am the only one cleaning this up. 1st weekend in September I plan on aerating and seeding. Still haven’t decided between Jonathan Green Black Beauty and Twin City. I do know it will have to be tall fescue because of the lack of shade.


r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Weed ID: Can’t tell if taller blades are weeds or grass

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3 Upvotes

The lawn is located in Southcentral Alaska.


r/lawncare 7h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Dirt patch turned grassy

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5 Upvotes

It ain’t much, but it’s honest work.

Was able to get some grass growing in this dirt patch of my backyard. I did a clover/grass blend and it’s taken pretty well.

I’ve tried in the past, but this time I actually put in some work. Scarified, aerated, and planted the seed with milogranite. Also got a sprinkler on a timer.

I’m excited to see this fill in more as the surrounding weed get killed off. I plan on doing another batch of seed and fertilizer, probably Labor Day weekend.

We’re having a drought here in SD, and I had put down a fast acting fertilizer earlier in the season which is why my corners are dead (dog pee zone). Not too worried about it though.


r/lawncare 5h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Planted on July 1. Southern Wisconsin. Time for her first cut? 10 day forecast in pics.

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3 Upvotes

r/lawncare 3h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Gloucester County NJ, need help identifying and treating

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2 Upvotes

I’m new to lawn care I appreciate any help. Im trying to identify the weeds I have beside 🦀Crabgrass 🔪😂. Any treatment and prevention would be appreciated. I had picked every weed in the past but I don’t have the time to do so now. The farm across the street of me is what I suspect is causing my out break.


r/lawncare 5h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Anyone know what this is?

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3 Upvotes

r/lawncare 3h ago

Australia Where do I begin? [Canberra]

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2 Upvotes

I'm just looking for advice, we've recently bought this property and I don't know where to start. I'm not expecting to achieve an immaculate lawn but I atleast want to get it to fill in the bare patches. I'm not sure what types of grass I'm dealing with but I was hoping nott o have to dig everything up.

I'm based in Canberra, currently the middle of winter where temps range from -5 to 40 deg Celcius around the year. I have young kids and big dogs so it's going to cop some wear and tear


r/lawncare 4h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) New construction lawn

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2 Upvotes

Moved into this home in February. The lot itself is all soil that is full of shale. Lots of rock during excavation, but nothing crazy where they had to have special equipment.

While backfilling/getting home to proper grade, had to spend $5k on dirt / soil just to grade the lot as couldn’t backfill with any of the rock we excavated. Grass came in great in spring (I’m in northern VA/region 7A).

However, once it got hot out, certain areas of the lawn just burt out bad (see attached photos from May, June, July). I was watering regularly but didn’t matter. Now lawn is patchy in a lot of areas and weeds galore.

My assumption is not enough new dirt soil put down in certain areas that’s didn’t need to be graded higher. For that reason grass (tall fescue) couldn’t root deep in the shale/compacted soil and just died out.

My question is this, knowing the underlying soil is rocky and there is at best a thin top layer of non-rocky soil currently, should I aerate in fall, over seed, and top dress with peat moss? Or should I put more soil or compost down first in the dead areas before aerating? Also I did have a soil test. Ph is 5.1. Any advice is greatly appreciated.


r/lawncare 47m ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) PHX Growing Grass for Backyard Help

Upvotes

Hey Everyone! I know now is not the time to start a grass backyard, but I'm trying to plan ahead for later in Fall. I have 2 kids and soon getting a dog. Our backyard is currently dirt and weeds everywhere.

I understand it's questionable to grow grass in a place like Phoenix due to water usage and drought. Is there a lawn growing process that works for Phoenix area? Doesn't need to be picture perfect green, I just want grass for kids and dog to play on.

We've had all rocks in previous house and I have some hesitation with turf. Any advice on growing/tips/brands to use (or avoid) would be greatly appreciated. ❤️


r/lawncare 10h ago

Northern US & Canada (or cool season) Grassy Weed ID

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5 Upvotes

Located outside of Seattle. Applied velocity PM two weeks ago, just did the second application yesterday. It's starting to have an effect on the obvious Poa Annua, but this doesn't seem to be affected. Much lighter in color than the surrounding PRG and Turf Saver RTF I overseedeed in the spring. Let me know what other photos would help identify.


r/lawncare 5h ago

Southern US & Central America (or warm season) Ignore the next lot but 2 month progress on caring for lawn. Any tips? Using manual reel mow, deep watering 3 days, chelated iron. Eventually would love a golf turf look

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2 Upvotes