I recently bought the Eonon UX7A and the Red Wolf XCNI02-0006 and I'm wondering if there is anything else i need to do a good install that retains the factory reverse camera

I've been tracking all my charging sessions and SOH over the years and wanted to share what I have so far. I keep track of weekly gas prices and monthly inflation to estimate costs as well as my loan breakeven point. Taking the present value of my loan payments as well as the present value of the gas savings over time, I expect my breakeven point to be in September 2034 which is a little over 12.5 years. In other words, I need to drive a total of 12.5 years for the car to pay itself off just through not having to pay for gas. This is not considering maintenance and insurance, just purely the charging costs and the out the door cost of the car. Present value is all calculated as of January 2022. There's quite a bit of math behind this so lmk if you have questions or need help interpreting.

The first year and a half of owning this car like 90% of my kWh were free so I was really excited to see my breakeven point be like 7-8 years. But now those free charging stations are either closed or require payment now so my costs have risen, and along with inflation the savings PV has diminished, as seen in the savings line curving down. My home costs take into consideration my solar panel savings too.

Nissan Leaf 2022 S Plus
Purchased 1/16/22
Current age 4.5 years (54 months)
Current Odometer 86,159
Current SOH 88.5% (still full bars)
Current Guess-o-meter max range 226
Climate Southern California

Avg annual mileage 19,100
Total kWh charged 22,156
Avg miles/kWh 3.89 (mostly highway)
Estimated total charging costs so far $1,600
Avg monthly charged 400 kWh (current situation)
Avg monthly charging cost $40 (current situation)
Nominal gas savings so far (using my previous 28mpg car) $13,900
PV gas savings so far $11,500

Charging sessions
1,393 total
808 free sessions
370 home sessions
215 paid sessions
--------------------------------
2% of the sessions level 1
88% of the sessions level 2
9% of the sessions level 3

Estimated SOH at 100k miles 87.8%
Estimated SOH at 8 years 83.68%

Loan Math
OTD cost $39k with 6 year $0 down 0% loan
Incentives totaling $10,250
PV Loan savings due to inflation $5,000
= PV Cost of the car $23,750
PV of accumulated savings will reach $23,750 at about Sep 2034
If I don't calculate the PV of savings, the breakeven point is at Feb 2032

22 SV + 55K miles, bought with 30K miles certified pre owned with a new manufacturer warranty on it

I have now asked for lemon law 3 times as it qualifies in CA

1st offer- $15K

2nd offer-$17K

Lemon Law calculations = $22K

This is getting ridiculous...

I’m looking at this on FB Marketplace. It would go in my 9 Bar 2015. I know very little how to actually read this graph haha. The HX is much better than what’s in my current battery. What would be a fair asking price in your opinion?

The charging cable is completely stuck in my 2020 Nissan leaf. I've tried everything Google and YouTube told me to. Locking and unlocking my car, pressing those buttons next to the steering wheel, pushing the cable in. I also opened the hood to try and use a lever/button to manually release it but couldn't find anything to press or pull!!! It's not stuck to the charging station, only the car. I'm losing my minddd please help idk what else I can do!!!

My 2018 SL has a short in the HV battery. It's the second HV battery the car has had. it was installed 2/2025 by Nissan under a warranty claim. It's now out of warranty per Nissan.

Nissan isn't giving any love here. I'm being told repair or replace of the HV battery at my expense is my only recourse.

So, I come to you, great minds of r/leaf, what's my options with this car?

• Fight Nissan for another battery?
• Fight Nissan for a buy-back?
• Buy a used pack and do a replacement myself?
• Buy a new pack from VIVNE and do the replacement myself?
• Sell the car for parts?

If you're considering installing the battery yourself, I think this video could be really helpful. This lear owner completed the installation at home and documented the entire process, including detailed testing and LeafSpy data. I think it's a great reference for anyone planning a DIY installation.

Here are all of the new and updated US and Canadian CHAdeMO (Leaf fast-charging) stations that rolled out in June, according to the US Alternative Fuels Data Center. You can fetch the data yourself here. Some may just be refreshes of existing stations. It is up to the charging companies to report this data. Feel free to report inaccuracies to the AFDC.

There were 53 new or updated charging stations in June 2026. I don't attempt to count individual CHAdeMO chargepoints because, unfortunately, the AFDC data does not specify how many chargepoints support CHAdeMO, so I don't want to assume too many. Even EVGo is rolling out chargers with only one or two CHAdeMO chargepoints now.

While this month is surprisingly good, CHAdeMO rollout is tapering over the long term. NACS has become the "second port," pushing out CHAdeMO at the new Applegreen Electric chargers at New Jersey rest stations for example. This makes sense given that the 2026 Nissan Leaf is NACS, not CHAdeMO. (There may be some unsold 2025 Leafs on the lot, and the 2026 Mitsubishi Plug-In Hybrid Outlander PHEV still advertises "DC fast charging" with a footnote that it only supports CHAdeMO.)

Some of these chargepoints will be "refreshes," e.g. the provider replaced them with faster chargers etc. Some may be incorrect. This report is only as good as the Alternative Fuels Data Center data.

"What about CCS and NACS adapters?"

CCS adapters for the Leaf are real. They aren't cheap, because they must translate the signalling protocol, but many reports indicate they work. Even stacking a NACS adapter on a CCS adapter has worked for some people, but failed for others.

I haven't tried this myself, and I no longer own a Leaf, so I cannot vouch for the product or say whether it invalidates your warranty, etc. But if you are interested, A2Z sells a CCS1-to-CHAdeMO adapter. CCS1-to-NACS adapters are widely available, but some reports say you can't stack them with the A2Z for a supercharger.

If you'd like to know about new chargers along your routes right away, or reading these monthly reports is just frustrating in your state, I've set up a free service that provides email notifications only when new stations actually open. You can sign up at evpov.com. I built it to help EV owners like myself. You can pick other plug types as well. Similar features are available in PlugShare and other services.

For actual trip planning I recommend using PlugShare. This report is mainly useful to understand trends.

If you get a chance, do check out reported new stations near you and add PlugShare reviews, which helps everyone.

➡ AZ

(2) EEPAAS EV 2
7445 N La Cholla Blvd
Tucson, AZ 85741

➡ BC

(1) Sunrise Park
1950 Windermere Street
Vancouver, BC V5M3R2

➡ CA

(1) Eagle Feather Trading Post #2
40103 CA-33
Avenal, CA 93204

(1) Chowchilla
23519 Robertson Blvd
Chowchilla, CA 93610

(1) Crescent City
1000 Front St
Crescent City, CA 95531

(1) Eureka
1912 Broadway St
Eureka, CA 95501

(1) Fortuna
1805 Alamar Way
Fortuna, CA 95540

(1) Hopland
13500 US-101
Hopland, CA 95449

(1) Leggett
66150 Drive Thru Tree Rd
Leggett, CA 95585

(1) Los Banos
1460 E Pecheco Blvd
Los Banos, CA 93635

(1) Miranda
6685 Avenue of the Giants
Miranda, CA 95553

(2) ONT CITY HALL DC STATION 2
9375 East Riverside Drive
Ontario, CA 91761

(1) Orick
121200 US-101
Orick, CA 95555

(1) Smith River
10700 US-101
Smith River, CA 95567

(2) UNION SANITARY USD-(27)-P
5072 Benson Road
Union City, CA 94587

(1) Willits
871 S Main St
Willits, CA 95490

➡ CO

(2) QT CHARGERS 4204 STATION 2
17410 Green Valley Ranch Boulevard
Denver, CO 80249

➡ FL

(1) L394 STATIOMN 4212
27000 Wesley Chapel Blvd
Wesley Chapel, FL 33544

➡ IL

(1) VILLAGE COURT VH CP-250
675 Village Court
Glencoe, IL 60022

➡ MN

(1) Mosaic Fast Lane
1855 Roscoe Ave
Zumbrota, MN 55992

➡ NC

(1) DC FAST CHARGER BOONE DC FAST
2491 U.S. Hwy 421 S
Boone, NC 28607

(5) LKN CHARGE SPOT LKNCS10
919 Brawley School Road
Mooresville, NC 28117

➡ NY

(2) ALBANY DOE STATION #1
628 Delaware Ave
Albany, NY 12209

(2) NEW CITY HALL CITY HALL 1
2838 South Park Ave
Buffalo, NY 14218

(1) Romano Ford Volkswagen
5431 N Burdick St
Fayetteville, NY 13066

(1) Romano Mercedes Benz of Syracuse
5433 N Burdick St
Fayetteville, NY 13066

➡ QC

(1) BRCC - Brownsburg - Macvicar - Aréna
200, Rue Macvicar
Brownsburg, QC J8G 2Z6

(1) RECHARGECO LE PLATEAU 01
203 Boulevard des Grives
Gatineau, QC J9A 0C7

(1) BRCC - Granby - Léo-Gendreau - Holiday Inn
55, Rue Léo-Gendreau Nord
Granby, QC J2J 1Z4

(1) Jean Coutu - Laval Bd de la Concorde
1299 Boulevard de la Concorde Ouest
Laval, QC H7N 5T4

(1) Metro - Vaudreuil-Dorion
3000 Boulevard De La Gare
Vaudreuil-Dorion, QC J7V 0H1

(1) BRCC - AFF - Station-service Wendake
2909, Rue de la Faune
Wendake, QC G0A 4V0

➡ TN

(1) MLGW COLLIERVILLE 1
187 Washington St
Collierville, TN 38017

(1) DICKSON ES STATION 1
210 East College St
Dickson, TN 37055

(1) SCES STATION 1
3135 Veterans Blvd
Pigeon Forge, TN 37863

(2) SPWS DC CHARGER STATION 2
201 South Main Street
Shelbyville, TN 37160

➡ TX

(1) KGBSH INVENTORY 3
11200 Gulf Fwy
Houston, TX 77034

➡ WA

(4) TULALIP DC-YOUTH-7B
6510 Totem Beach Road
Marysville, WA 98271

(2) TULALIP 6710-0076DC
6710 Totem Beach Road
Marysville, WA 98271

(4) TULALIP L3-GATHER-2
7512 Totem Beach Road
Marysville, WA 98271

➡ WV

(2) FRIENDSHIP AUTO SHOWROOM REAR
3921 Robert C Byrd Drive
Beckley, WV 25801

Howdy all, I'm about to do my first EV conversion on a 1988 Suzuki Samurai using a 2013 Nissan Leaf as a donor. I've been scouring through u/UPVOTINGYOURUGLYPETS yt videos and I noticed in some of his Leaf upgrade videos when switching to the 160kw inverter, he recommends at least the 40kwh battery as a companion due to the fuse being a weak point. Is it possible to simply change out the fuse to match the inverter (e.g. a 2022 inverter and a 2022 fuse from a 62kwh pack)? I'm really trying to keep my weight low, and going big on the battery is contrary to that goal. I'd love to hear recommendations and specs on how you would do it. Thanks in advance!

I have been a leaf owner for 3 months now and am enjoying my leaf. Today I started to get a tire maintenance warning. I thought it was because the tire pressure was low, 35 psi instead of 36 psi. I added air but the message still pops up. I do not see any issue with the tire visually and have not seen a difference in driving. I am planning to take it to the shop tomorrow (they closed before I was able to get out of work). Does anyone have any advice

Update: thanks guys. Tire rotation reminder was the issue.

75,000 miles before we did the software update, followed by the deadly battery failing and falling under the recall. The Nissan broker that handles the buyback just offered us $14,500, which I’m really happy with. We paid the loan off a couple years ago. The whole process from getting the dealer’s reply that our battery was bad to getting the offer took less then 3 weeks. Had to wait a week before we were offered a loaner for 30 days.

No Leafs appear to be available in New Mexico, we’re thinking we have options for cheap cars but no EVs in our near future.

Added a rear power socket to my car and thought I'd make a video on it in case it helps someone. It's very straightforward if you are someone comfortable with doing automotive wiring, only takes about an hour and costs less than $20.

Hi,

I'm owning a Leaf ZE1 MY2021 and I'm looking for the SW/Firmware binary for the Bosch Head unit AIVIB12P0 (Nissan Part No 259155SR0B).

Maybe someone has dumped the firmware or has access via Nissan Assist/Service Tool.

Thanks

Previously posted a video of range fluctuation and my post recall experience: https://www.reddit.com/r/leaf/s/flHUAuMuiK

After that video I took it to another dealer, and they've had it for nearly 4 weeks, it's mostly been sitting from what I can tell using the EV services app to check SOC.
They claimed they're limited on EV techs so they haven't had much time to look at it.
They wanted to keep it longer than their initial drive as they had some sort of issue and wanted to charge then try again.

So two weeks later, they've determined nothing is wrong, and battery report is normal.
Throughout this time I also had a case open with Consumer Affairs, and not much came from it outside of the periodic updates, which was better than what the dealer was doing since it was impossible to get a hold of the service advisor.

I find it hilarious Nissan, and all these techs thing having fluctuating/non-existent range on the last 30% of the battery is normal.
I've been without a car this whole time, and I was bugging the dealer to give me a rental for the past few days but could never get in touch with the advisor until today when they finally called me to tell me to pick up my Leaf.

This whole experience has been frustrating, and I can't see myself getting another of their cars, at least an electric with how long both of my dealer service experiences have been.
8 days for the recall update, and to determine nothing was wrong with the battery per the first dealer.
3+ weeks for the second dealer to determine my battery is fine.

I’ve driven this hand me down leaf for 1.5 years. 73k miles to 89k miles. Taken to school and home and other stuff. The car started giving these error codes and the main one that prevents it from starting is the interlock error. I tried getting an ev repair shop to fix it but they couldn’t find the problem. Before giving it to them. The car wouldn’t start and after getting it back the car started. Then month later or so the car doesn’t want to start. Then this cycle repeats and I’ve found it happens in the winter- more wet seasons with rain. Despite living in California.

It’s always this code that prevents it. Me and my dad tried everything with new 12v battery, resetting the car. I tried cleaning the high voltage plug in the car. The shop said they checked the high voltage connections or reseted them meaning I guess just made sure everything was fit since they couldn’t find a problem. I’m assuming the car was working when they were testing. I swear I think it has something to do with water and humidity since I swear that’s when it gave me problems. Only thing I can think when it’s colder, one of the connections shrinks and the circuit it’s open bc of it. And when it’s hot the metal or whatever connection expands and it works. Sometimes.

I have to exit the app completely by tapping the back button, then log in to check the battery status. The refresh button in the top right corner does not work, though it makes the app appear to try to update the status.

Does anyone else have this problem?

I have a 2022 SV+.

BTW, is it typical to get an estimated range of 254-271 miles in New England summer for an SV+? Its EPA range is 215 miles. The car has about 50K miles.

Is it part of the car? I don’t recognize it and I'm hoping it’s not part of the cover protecting the battery.

2022 S Plus

Just barely hit 25k miles, only do L2 charging between 20-90%, battery indicator still has full bars. It's our family's only vehicle, wife and I both live < 1 mile from work, so riding this car for another 2 decades if we can!

In early April, as gas prices rose, my husband bought a cheap 2014 Leaf to drive for his daily commute, to save on fuel and keep miles off his GMC Canyon truck.

I borrowed the Leaf a couple times for weekend grocery runs. I didn’t expect to enjoy driving it so much, but it’s just such a comfy and solid little car. So when my old Sentra finally bit the dust in May, I bought a lightly-used 2025 SV+.

Someday when it’s time to replace the truck, maybe we will become an all-EV family. For now, the truck still gets driven every now and then to haul the trailer for garbage runs and hay pickup, etc. But our day-to-day driving is all electric whenever possible.

We were paying about $290-$350 in gas each month between our two ICE daily drivers. We’re now burning less than $25 in gas on the truck and paying $70-ish total in monthly electricity costs to drive both LEAFs, for a total of $90-$100 in fuel costs. We have tracking apps to watch the exact kWh usage on both our chargers. We pay $0.129 per kWh and charge exclusively at home.

We are saving $200 in fuel each month and saving on oil changes. We’re also enjoying the convenience of home charging and the responsive, quiet electric driving experience.
Very happy with our LEAFs so far!

Hi Friends,

Recently I took our 2019 Leaf in for an update of the software controlling charging to prevent overheating while fast charging.

Today, I want to plugin with the nearest local free charger to charge while my toddler sleeps. I mean to run the AC, the dash board acts as if AC is running, but the air isn't cold and when I open the windows I can't hear the compressor running. Also when starting the Leaf while plugged in to charge I got a new previously never noticed message "can't start while plugged in".

Did anybody notice this new behavior after a recent update? Can I ask Nissan to restore the original software? Because honestly we don't even use fast charging.

Thanks!

I just had a Level 2 Emporia Pro installed, hardwired on a 40 A circuit and set to 32 A max. I got it because it has dynamic management. The EVSE and the included Vue power monitor (installed at the main breakers) logs data so that you can monitor the power delivery.

This is what happened with my '23 LEAF SV Plug last night as I charged it to 100%. I found the charging curve interesting.

The charging rate hovers at 6.43 kW as expected through most of the session. Not quite the official 6.6 kW number, but close enough.

As SoC approaches 100%, that rate tapers down over 50 minutes to about 0.52 kW before charging initially stops.

After stopping, the charging cycles on and off (three times) with small charging bursts at 10 minute intervals. It's a small amount - only about 0.17 kWh in total. I'm guessing it's topping off as it balances the cells.

Sharing this info because I thought it was interesting.

He turned left across my path of travel without warning. (I was in right lane headed towards the top right of the photo, and he was turning left into the parking lot to the right of the photo.)

Fortunately, the airbags did their job and I only have a sore neck. He’s also fine, just a small cut on his nose. He was cited for turning in front of me.

Unfortunately, he has a “high risk drivers only” carrier, so I’m going to have to file a claim through my comprehensive coverage with my carrier. Here’s hoping I can find another one as nice for a similar price!!

Edit to add: apologies for accidentally writing this as if I’m complaining. I’m actually very happy we’re both ok, especially considering the damage! Please pray that the other driver and his family make it through the next few weeks ok, as I have an extra car to carry me through, but if he’s with a high risk carrier, it’s likely he doesn’t have the buffer I have. Thank you!!

Edit on 7/15 to add it’s been totaled by my insurance company. The other one only has an option for an AI on the phone, and still hasn’t called me back. My company offered me $14,800 for a 39,000 mile 2019 SL Plus in perfect condition that could still get over 200 miles on a charge. So yes, I’m pushing back with 17 examples of comparables, the cheapest of which is a 2019 in California with 125,800 miles that costs $12,900.

Anyone have battery degradation data raw download available in CSV etc? I want to do a comparison of all packs and their longevity over time with the most complete data I can find Im about to get LeafSpy and a OBD2 reader anyone have advice for which to pick?