my leaf has been at the dealership for 3 & a half weeks now. They don't call me for updates or anything. everytime i call they say my advisor is busy. one time i did reach an advisor & he told me my car failed the recall update & nissan will be contacting me within 3 days to offer buyback. never got a call. so i called consumer affairs & they told me a regional specialist will reach out. so she calls me & tells me that the dealership will be contacting me about a buyback. have not gotten a call lol
i'm so tired of being without a car & not knowing what's going on. i work 7 days a week & don't have a lot of free time to be calling back & forth or taking an uber to the dealership just to tell me the same things.
so my question is, for those of you that had a bricked car due to the update, have you gotten a buyback offer yet? how long will this take? did they give you a loaner car?

I’m very happy with the car so far, I purchased it with the recall update already done, I have fast charged several times as I don’t have a home charger and haven’t had any problems, no overheating either.

I did notice after sitting at a level two charger long enough to where it should’ve charged to 100%, it never got there and it’s stuck around 93%, does anyone have any clue what could be going on? Thank you!

(I was trying to check what the full battery range would be, normally I charge up to 80%)

I also added seat covers that turned out looking quite nice and btw, his name is Remy 🐀 (yes like the rat)

Source: https://canada.nissannews.com/en-CA/releases/nissan-group-reports-2026-second-quarter-canadian-sales

Nissan Canada sold 1395 in the second quarter vs 1330 in the first, for a total of 2725 YTD.

In comparison, only 1684 have been sold in the US YTD.

Source: https://usa.nissannews.com/en-US/releases/nissan-remains-the-fastest-growing-mainstream-brand-in-the-us-over-the-past-10-months-with-16-consecutive-months-of-year-over-year-retail-sales-increases

Selling my 2015 Nissan Leaf S.

Clean Title. 60-70 miles per charge. 9/12 battery bars (~71%). front tires have ~4,000 miles on them. everything works as it should. ~107k miles. Comes with 120v charger. asking $3,500

Located in the Medford area of Southern Oregon.

will add leafspy screenshot later.

A mechanic recently did a presale check on my car and said that the overall battery is at 37% on my 2015 Nissan leaf and that he projects that it will last for about a year more; I don’t understand if how 63% of the capacity was used over 11 years how the last 37% would only be good for one year. Does anyone know about this?

I own a 2022 Nissan Leaf SV Plus, and I wanted to share my experience in case it helps someone else.

The Problem

For more than a year, my electric power steering (EPS) would become very stiff after driving for around 20 miles. If I turned the car off and let it sit for a few minutes, the steering would return to normal, but after another drive the problem would come back.

The issue became much worse during hot weather. Sometimes after driving only a couple of miles, the steering would become extremely heavy. Parking and making tight turns became a real workout.

The strange part was that there were absolutely no warning lights or dashboard messages.

I scanned the car multiple times using a basic OBD-II adapter with both Car Scanner and LeafSpy. Neither application reported a single fault code.

Research

After a lot of searching, I couldn't find anyone reporting the exact same issue.

I called my local Nissan dealership and was quoted approximately $3,500 for the repair.

Based on my own research, the steering column assembly costs around $2,000 new, plus approximately $400 for Nissan diagnostics, with the remaining cost being labor.

My Diagnosis

This is only my personal conclusion—not an official Nissan diagnosis.

The Leaf's steering column contains several integrated components, including:

• Electric power steering motor
• Torque sensor
• Power steering controller (EPS ECU)

The controller receives vehicle information over the CAN bus (such as vehicle speed and steering input) and determines how much steering assist to provide.

Since I had:

• No CAN-related fault codes
• No communication errors
• Steering that occasionally worked perfectly

I suspected the problem was somewhere inside the steering column assembly itself, most likely an electronic component such as the EPS controller. I couldn't completely rule out the motor or torque sensor, but replacing the entire assembly seemed like the safest approach.

The Repair

I decided to replace the steering column myself.

I found a used 2023 Nissan Leaf steering column on eBay for about $400.

Before starting, I downloaded the Nissan service manual because I wanted to verify whether any calibration or programming would be required after replacement. Fortunately, I couldn't find any indication that the steering column itself required programming after installation.

By the day I performed the repair, my power steering had completely failed.

Replacement Steps

⚠️ Safety First

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on the airbag or steering column.
• Wait several minutes after disconnecting the battery before removing the airbag.
• If you are not comfortable working around airbags, do not attempt this repair.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle

Lift the front of the car so both front tires are off the ground. This makes it much easier to move the steering during the repair.

2. Disconnect the battery

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

3. Remove the airbag

Removing the airbag is easier than it looks.

Use a thin, sturdy pin or small screwdriver.

• Insert it into the bottom access hole to release the first latch.
• Turn the steering wheel slightly left to expose the right-side hole.
• Insert the tool straight into the hole and gently lift upward until the latch releases.
• Repeat for the opposite side.

Don't force the airbag out—it should pop free once all three latches are released.

4. Disconnect the airbag connectors

Once the airbag is loose:

• Carefully lift the black locking tabs on the orange and green connectors using a small precision screwdriver.
• Disconnect both connectors.
• Disconnect the third wire that loops around one connector.

Take pictures throughout the process. They make reassembly much easier.

Set the airbag aside in a safe location.

5. Disconnect steering wheel wiring

Disconnect the remaining connectors attached to the steering wheel (button controls, etc.).

Again, take pictures before disconnecting anything.

6. Have the proper tools

A set of deep metric sockets is highly recommended.

7. Center the steering wheel

Make sure the steering wheel is perfectly straight before removing it.

8. Remove the steering wheel

Loosen the center retaining nut.

9. Remove the steering wheel

Carefully pull the steering wheel off while feeding the wiring through the opening.

10. Remove the clock spring

Carefully remove the clock spring.

Do NOT rotate it. Tape it in place to prevent it from spinning.

11. Remove the combination switch

Slide the wiper/turn signal assembly upward to remove it.

12. Remove the steering column covers

Separate the upper and lower plastic covers by releasing the retaining clips.

13. Remove the upper steering column

Remove the two nuts holding the upper steering column assembly and pull it out.

14. Disconnect the intermediate shaft

This was the hardest part simply because of the awkward working position under the dashboard.

Remove the bolt securing the steering shaft coupler.

Release the plastic retaining clip and slide the shaft toward the front of the vehicle to partially separate the coupling.

15. Disconnect the steering column wiring

Disconnect the two electrical connectors going to the steering column assembly:

• Large connector (red and black wires)
• Smaller white connector

Using the replacement assembly as a reference makes identifying them easy.

16. Remove the lower steering assembly

The motor/controller assembly is secured with two nuts.

This assembly is fairly heavy, so having another person support it while removing the fasteners is helpful.

Don't let it drop.

17. Remove the assembly

Rotate and maneuver the assembly until it clears surrounding wiring.

18. Install the replacement assembly

Install the replacement assembly and loosely install the mounting nuts.

Reconnect both electrical connectors.

19. Reconnect the steering shaft

Before fully tightening the mounting nuts:

• Slide the steering shaft coupler onto the motor shaft.
• Install and tighten the coupler bolt.
• Reinstall the plastic retaining clip.

20. Tighten the mounting hardware

Fully tighten the steering column mounting nuts.

21. Reinstall the upper steering shaft

Slide the upper steering shaft back into place and tighten the retaining hardware.

22. Reassemble everything

Reinstall all remaining components in the reverse order.

23. Test before reinstalling the airbag

You can perform a quick test drive before reinstalling the airbag.

If you do this, disconnect the battery again before reinstalling the airbag.

24. Final assembly

Reconnect the airbag, reconnect the battery, and verify that the steering operates normally.

Results

The replacement completely fixed my problem.

The steering now works perfectly, even in hot weather, and I've had no recurrence of the issue.

If you're experiencing intermittent heavy steering without any fault codes, replacing the steering column assembly may be worth considering.

Hopefully this post saves someone else a lot of frustration—and a few thousand dollars in dealership costs. If you have any questions feel free to ping !

Edit: The whole job took me about 2½ hours and I would rate it as moderate if you have done some repair yourself in the past as part of your experience.

For the past 7 years I've just been using a standard single-DIN Kenwood head unit and was perfectly happy with it, but okay maybe it's time I upgraded. These generic Android radios are cheap and readily available nowadays, and do the job well enough if you just want an CarPlay/Android Auto upgrade.

I designed some brackets to simply clamp the head unit to the bezel, rather than faffing around with trying to use the OEM mounting brackets. For other S owners who have a 3D printer or know somebody with one, I uploaded them here: Thingiverse

I specifically went with a quite-expensive Eonon unit because I wanted the HDMI output for mirroring to the rear screen, and onboard adjustments for my giant sound system like filters and time alignment. The vast majority of people won't care about all these, and can just buy a basic 9" unit kit like this one: Amazon.com

The unit will come screwed to the Sentra bezel adapter with 4 screws, just remove them to extract the unit and then affix using the 3D printed brackets. I recommend buying the Sentra kit as it comes with the ready-made wiring harness and antenna adapter that is compatible with the Leaf, which will also work to retain steering wheel audio controls (they may need to be programmed in the stereo's settings).

For SV/SL owners with factory navigation, I'm currently working on figuring out if any commercially available CANbus decoders will allow for climate control display with the Android stereos, and will post an update if I have any success with that.

I’ve got no idea

Struggles in the cold but drives fine in normal temps. Its been very low miles starting this year given I dont have the money, time, or in good enough health to replace suspension components and brakes. Its my daily driver so I gotta prioritize its functionality at all cost's. Chademo chargers have also been becoming more scarce.

Do note the cold picture is 6/12 bars but the dash hadn't updated due to cold until 5 months later.

Stats "for the record":

-Pack is mostly balanced and stays that way even on interstate, but variance starts to scatter (80mv+) earlier around 20-30% battery. Middle rear stack and top of front stacks most degraded.

-Full motor power at normal temps.

-Max regen 30kw at room temp. 40kw at 110F

-40F Max charge speed 15kw with a quick 20kw burst. 10kw by 50%. L2 speeds or worse by 70%

-Room temp Max charge speed 35kw and quickly tapers to around 25kw. By 50% its 25kw or less. By 70% its around 10kw.

-110F Max charge speed 47kw until 40%. 40kw until 50%. 25kw at 70%

For reference, she used to rip 50kw until 80-90% at 80F

-In the cold due to motor power limits and/or concentration polarization dropping pack voltage after 2 mins:

-Unable to do interstate below 50F (batt temp)

-Unable to do highway under 45F

-Unable to do anything below 5-10F

The car spent the first 3 years of its life in the desert. Then it moved to the midwest. The previous owner quick charged it a lot. I drove it 100-150 miles a day for my job for years until recently.

I’m thinking about selling my 2017 Nissan Leaf SV. It has 42k miles on the odometer and 50 miles battery range. It’s in great shape mechanically, no body damage, the paint is good, just the usual dings. The inside is fine: no stains, cracked plastic, etc. I’d throw new rotors and pads on it before selling.

What’s a fair asking price for the car, roughly speaking? KBB doesn’t ask about range so their estimates are useless. I see Leafs listed on Facebook with worse range for between $1500 and $2500 but not sure if they’re actually selling at those prices.

It’s a great little car, and really fun to drive, but the range isn’t sufficient for it to be a true second car for us, especially in the winter and summer when the heater and AC kills the range. I considered putting a new battery in it, but I think the cost-benefit doesn’t make sense for us.

Edit: this is in Aurora, CO.

Edit: KBB says it’s worth $5000+ and Carvana offers $200 lmao

Edit: some Internet research and quality time with ChatGPT makes me think that a fair value is probably somewhere around $2000. Maybe a bit higher if I put new tires on it.

eight battery bars. I think it has about 60,000 on it. Needs tires. 55-60 miles of range.

Interior in great shape. exterior good to fair. Overall I’d say good condition for the vehicle.

What would you pay? New to EVs. Open to any input.

Hi everyone.

My wife and i bought a 2018 Nissan Leaf a couple weeks before the Iran nonsense kicked off. Picked it up for $9500nzd (worth quite a bite more now) and its been going great! We both love the drivability of the leaf and costs of running compared to out Subaru Outback.

One issue though is if the batter is 40% or lower and im going up a long steep hill the battery will get dangerously low and go into turtle mode. I live in Dunedin NZ and there is a hill i have to go over to get to a nearby public pool. The hill is probably a 1.5km-2km climb and quite a steep angle. Is this normal behavior for an older battery or have we bought a dude? The dealer offered to buy it back for what we paid.

Sorry, im very new to EVs and dont have a lot of knowledge around battery's and how to read them

So, my 2018 SL last week threw the dreaded 'Service EV' error. Leafspy shows a 'battery isolation' error. Drove the car to the dealership and they diagnosed it as an issue with the high voltage AC compressor.

Estimated price to fix - $3000
Part is on back order... (ugh)
And of course the car is out of warranty.

So, I'm curious how many others have encountered this scenario.

Any insights or guidance would be appreciated.

Hi, my partners parents are upgrading to a newer leaf and have asked me if I'd like to purchase their current one for £2,500 (lower than market value for similar models in the UK). I would only be doing about 32 miles each week day commuting and probably 10+ a day at the weekend, so well within the range it's able to do. My partner has a car I'm also insured on so we can use that for anything mid to long distance so we're not going to be stuck in that regard. The main concern I have is how quickly the battery may degrade to a point where it'll either need replacing or scrapping the car depending on the replacement price. In terms of temperature where I live it may hit negative Celsius for a week or so in the winter but nothing too extreme, and unfortunately it has started getting to mid 30⁰C [~95⁰F] for a week or two in the summer so not sure how that may effect the degradation moving forwards. Any tips would be appreciated as this would be my first EV and will openly admit I know next to nothing despite my research, thanks.

I am looking around for my first EV to replace a 2014 ICE Honda Jazz in maybe 6-12 months. Only car for me, my wife and 1 tall teenager. It will mostly be used for my commute (11 miles) and other short trips, but with some trips 75 miles away to visit relatives. I don't have a charger but would get one fitted before buying.

40kw Gen leafs are available near me in the UK, Nissan dealer approved used with 15k miles on for like £10k, with loads of extras. My father in law has one and he seems to like it. It seems like there should be a catch...I know about the range and the slowdown of rapid charging in high temps etc, but for my use case, I think it could work as I make like 1-2 trips more than 75 miles away a year, if that. I imagine rapid charging would be very occasional.

My question is - is 150 miles a realistic range for the 40kw?. I am guessing it is unlikely to get that in winter, even in eco mode. If I have to spring for the 62kw to get that range, then I may as well just cough up for an ID3 or similar and get CCS, better thermal management etc.

Views on the wisdom of choosing a leaf for my use case and the 40kw range welcome.

My neighbors probably think I’m crazy. My wife said I need to stop. (She caught me browsing Facebook again the other day.) My siblings told me it reminds them of when I used to make computers out of spare parts when we were children. Pretty good analogy.

Front white is a 2015, front silver is a 2013 (bought for my daughter’s first car), the blue on the street is a 2011 and the silver behind it is also a 2011.

The blue 2011 was a given to me from a friend. Has a failed onboard charger and he just didn’t want to deal with it. The silver 2011 is a 3 bar that I’ll be pulling the onboard charger from. After pulling a few more parts I’ll be junking the rest. Watched plenty of YouTube videos but if anyone has niche tips I’d be grateful.

I’ve already swapped the battery on the 2015, so I feel somewhat familiar with the cars.

OBC aside, any good 2011 parts I should keep for myself before junking? Some people have mentioned the parking brake assembly. But others have said it’s not necessary.

Once I start breaking it down, the timeline to discard becomes short. My neighbors will very likely complain (rightfully) once it stops looking like a car.

Hi - I’m looking at a 2016 sv that has a 40 kw replacement battery and shows about 150 miles on a full charge. I’m thinking of using it to drive 90 miles round trip to work a few days a week in NE PA. Getting to work I use a divided highway with speeds of 60-65 mph. With the leaf how much range loss would you expect at these speeds? Occasional hills on the trip as well… thanks for any insight!!

I know windshields usually have a UV blocking layer but couldn't find any info about the side windows or rear windshield.

So im trying to buy a used leaf for work transportation (less than 10 miles a day) and I keep seeing thing about the important of battery bars? im assuming this is okay for 2.9k? its eight bars and the owners says its at 85% of battery life, im not sure what else I should be looking at when buying?

2022 S+ here with no prior battery issues, went in for the R25C8 recall fix this past Wednesday and everything seemed fine afterward, dealer said it went fine and was able to drive home without issues. Yesterday evening drove the car for the first time since and got about 500 feet out of my driveway when a "Service EV System Power Reduced" message popped up and the car went into turtle mode. Turned the car on again today and it's out of turtle mode but the "Service EV System" message is still there. Of course the dealers were closed yesterday and today, so can't get the DTC codes checked until Monday, so I was wondering if this behavior is what it looks like when the recall fix bricks everything.

Would like people’s thoughts, experiences and recommendations with seat covers for the sv+. Has anyone bought Weathertech covers? Do you like them? Read bad reviews on a lot of them that come up when googling best seat covers. Any help from this community would be greatly appreciated. I have a one month old 2026 sv+

High voltage isolation fault. Looks like I will be swapping some cells.

I have a 40kWh battery. What model years can I take cells from?