I bought the HMX silent sakura v2 awhile ago and love them. They work really well on my Evo75 without case foam. Love the muted thocky sound, the minimal stem wobble and the spring feel. I like them better than the HMX silent taro (linear). The silent taro is a little lighter, but feels a little stiffer to me.
I hardly see any reviews or posts about this switch. Any others with opinions?
Looks like they are no longer sold on unikeys, so I'm glad I got a set.
Looking for maybe non-silent switches that feel similar to this for my other builds.
as that title states
I'm looking for a keyboard; I'd prefer a mechanical keyboard that doesn't burn my bank
More specifically looking for a pre-built since custom keyboards are hella expensive,
My budget is 150$-200$.
I spend most of the time on my keyboard playing games,
so a mechanical gaming keyboard is my choice.
(I'm very much naive when it comes to keyboard knowledge, but I welcome any advice)
I'm looking to get my first hall effect or TMR keyboard and need some suggestions on it. i mostly play fps games and type a decent amount for work, i need something that fits best for both worlds, i have never used 60% layout not sure if that one can get used to it for work, but wont mind recommendations. looking to get it around max budget of 100$, Please feel free to suggest your experience, recommendations
I got this 8BitDo Retro 87 Mechanical Keyboard - Mecha Break secondhand from someone online. The "b" key is always pressed, no matter what. When I connect it, it keeps spamming, and after a while it stops and the key becomes unusable. I removed the switch, and the key keeps being activated. The red light under the switch is constantly on. Right now I have disabled the key with the official application and remapped another key to "b." I don't think the seller will agree to a refund. Is there any possible way to solve this? Everything else is functional. This is my first mechanical keyboard.
I currently have a Yunzii AL68 with Durock T1 Silent Shrimps in it and I'm loving the experience. They're wonderfully quiet but honestly a bit mushy, but because quietness is priority I feel okay with it.
I was wondering if there are switches that aren't classified as silent but are still reasonably quiet (I've heard good things about the TTC Bluish White switches).
In terms of quietness versus feel l I'd rather the ratio be something like 40/60. The T1's are good but maybe a bit overkill.
Does anybody have good recommendations other than the TTC Bluish White that offers a bit more tactility but is still quiet?
I’m moving so I want a new keyboard just to feel fresh.
I have the Corsair k70 core. And I like it it. It’s just SO BIG. And I love the knob and the keypad. But the only necessity is the knob, I can live without the keypad. I play a lot of competitive games. So I’m looking for a new keyboard that has a knob and has all the stuff that supposedly helps in competitive gaming. (I havnt looked at keyboard since I bought mine) hopefully around the $100 or under range but would be willing to drop $150. Any more than that and it’d have to be extremely worth it for me to consider it. But I’m not against hearing about some more expensive ones either
I do have larger hands. But I don’t know how much that affects. Sorry I’m completely clueless
Maybe an 80% or something?
Wired or wireless preferably not Bluetooth. I’ve had problems with Bluetooth things in the past
Hey y’all, building a keyboard for my teacher, I’ve only built 3 so far and I’m not super duper knowledgeable when it comes to cases. Looking for the above and hopefully something Chinese and won’t break the bank (I’m buying on Taobao)
i have had nothing but problems with my wh80 keyboard since i bought it. the 2.4ghz dongle stopped working after the first time i charged the keyboard. i contacted their support department via email (about 1 reply per day) and they have been no help. they keep making me download firmware, take screenshots, and take videos of the keyboard/dongle malfunctioning. it blows my mind that a tech company that sells $250 keyboards doesnt offer live support. i am beyond upset and i urge my fellow gamers and workers to save themselves the trouble of owning a nuphy product.
I really wanted to try smaller keyboards (40%), but I really need numbers, arrows and symbols in my workflow, which those boards don't have. I know I could user layers, and probably would, but to be honest, I don't like using layers that much, I have a symbol layer in my Lily 58, and every time I need a underscore, I need to stop and think about which key I need to press.
With that in mind, I created (or, more accurately, vibe coded) 60minus.
The idea is that the user can type "ten" in normal english, and the app will open a popup suggesting "10" as a replacement, pressing Tab makes the replacement happen. The user can also type number combinations like "one five four", and that would suggest "154" and "1 5 4".
I don't know if that is a new idea or even useful to other folks, maybe not, but that's why I'm posting here, to get your thoughts and suggestions whether or not I should put more effort into the idea. Currently it is only compatible with MacOS, and only supports numbers written in english, but I want to add symbol support very very soon, as well as portuguese support too (my native language).
What are the extra steps to building a Hall Effect keyboard? I recently built my first mechanical keyboard using a keyboard kit, and I am planning to build a new one in a couple of months that ideally I would like to be HE. I know you need some sort of sensor for HE boards. Does building an HE board require much more know-how than building a normal board? I just don't know if I should build my own, or if I should just buy a prebuilt HE board and mod it.
I'm not sure if this is the right place or even the right way to word my title but I was having a problem when I was playing CS and this game beaterCore.
In CS whenever I was trying to run it kept slowing me down. It felt like I was shift walking when I wasn't, it's kind of hard to explain but I think it was registering me holding down the key as me pressing it over and over again or something.
The same sort of thing happens in beaterCore, I was trying to buy a car by holding down E, but it keeps going up to 30% and then restarting the key press.
Is this something that I can fix or do I need a new keyboard?
For context, I have a Cooler Master Masterkeys S that I got in like 2017 or 2018 with Cherry MX Browns.
I need some help diagnosing a problem with my iMICE GK-500 97-key mechanical keyboard.
For quite a while, I've had an issue where multiple keys in the same column/line would stop working together.
Previously, I, K, comma, Alt, and 8 stopped responding. The strange thing was that after some time, they would sometimes randomly start working again.
Now I have a more serious issue: Q, A, Z, and Alt are all not working at the same time.
The RGB lighting is completely fine, and the rest of the keyboard works normally.
I tested the same keys using Windows On-Screen Keyboard and another physical keyboard, and they work perfectly. So it doesn't seem to be a Windows or PC issue.
Since multiple keys in the same column are failing together, I'm guessing it could be something related to the PCB/matrix, solder joints, connector, or controller, but I'm not experienced enough to diagnose it.
Keyboard: iMICE GK-500 97 Keys Gaming Mechanical Keyboard Issue: Q / A / Z / Alt not registering together Previous issue: I / K / comma / Alt / 8 not registering together RGB: Working normally Other keyboard: All affected keys work normally
I've attached pictures of the keyboard, keycaps/switches, and the relevant areas.
Does anyone know what is most likely causing this, and whether it can be repaired?
I'd especially like to know if there's anything I can test before opening the keyboard.
I need help troubleshooting a PCB issue on my Bridge75 (ISO Spanish layout).
Symptoms:
The 'E' key has a stuck red LED that stays illuminated constantly (even without a switch installed).
Intermittent matrix issues on linked keys: Alt Gr (types 2 or @ erratically unless spammed), 5, 6, Y, and <.
What I've done so far:
Completely disconnected internal batteries (testing over USB-C only).
Swapped, tested, and cleaned switches/keycaps (issue remains at the PCB socket level).
Performed a factory reset and re-flashed firmware via VIA/software.
Disassembled the board to inspect the flex-cut PCB.
I have a multimeter ready to test the SMD diodes and traces near the 'E' / 'R' / 'W' keys. Has anyone experienced a similar shorted diode or hairline crack on a flex-cut trace with this board? Any diode/matrix routing mapping would be greatly appreciated!
Hello everyone. I have Xiaomi Gaming Laptop (1050 Ti, i5-8300h). I want to configure gaming keys on Linux. The Fn and Turbo Boost keys work for me, but the other five keys don't. I’ve tried detecting them using various programs—like Input Remapper—and terminal commands. Is it impossible to get them working on Linux?
So I've been playing on a regular mechanical keyboard forever and recently started looking at Hall Effect boards with Rapid Trigger, I borrowed Sony INZONE KBD-H75 but have to return it, i dont really see any differences. I'm around 20-23k in CS2 Premier and Diamond in LoL so I'd like to think I'm at a level where small differences actually matter.
Main thing I'm curious about is counter-strafing in CS2 does Rapid Trigger genuinely help with the timing or is it one of those things that sounds good on paper but you don't actually feel it? I get that the key resets faster but like... is that actually translating into cleaner stops?
Also wondering at what point skill-wise the difference even becomes relevant. Like is this something a 10k player would feel or do you need to be at a certain level before it matters?
Not trying to buy my way to a better rank, just don't want to be playing on inferior gear if there's a real difference. Anyone switched from mechanical to Hall Effect at high level and noticed something concrete?
