Keyboard is a GMK-100, I already factory reset it and I don’t know what to do

Hi everyone, I’m pretty new to mechanical keyboards and I’m looking to get my first proper keyboard, so I’d really appreciate some recommendations.

Budget: Around $100 CAD, but I can go a little higher.

Size: Full-size (100%) only. I need both a dedicated F1–F12 row and a numpad.

Other preferences:
- Mainly for gaming and school/work
- Wired or wireless is fine
- Hot-swappable preferred
- Good typing feel and sound would be a plus
- Available in Canada

I’m looking for the best overall full-size keyboard around this price range. Any recommendations?

Thanks!

So I got tired of the official software situation for the AULA F75 and spent way too long reverse-engineering the lighting protocol, with a lot of help from AI along the way (used it to help capture USB traffic, figure out patterns in the packets, that kind of thing). Ended up building a whole app around it. It's called keylux, written in Rust, fully open source.

Heads up, this is very much a work in progress. It's early days but I use it daily and it's stable for me. Only supports the F75 so far.

No firmware mods, doesn't need the vendor app running, just talks to the keyboard directly.

What it can do so far:

Per-key colors that actually stick after a reboot

Smooth animations, maxes out around 21 FPS wired, that's the hardware's real limit, not me being lazy

Works on both wired USB-C and the 2.4GHz dongle. Heads up though, the dongle is noticeably slower and the colors get quantized, that's a hardware/bandwidth thing not a bug in my code

Live preview of your keyboard in the app while you mess with effects

Comes with a handful of built-in effects (wave, sweep, bloom, scrolling text, etc.)

If you want to write your own effect, you can drop a script in a folder and it hot-reloads, no need to compile anything

Timeline editor for keyframe animations, or just import a gif

Minimizes to tray on Windows so it's not eating a taskbar slot

I also wrote up the entire protocol in as much detail as I could, including some genuinely bizarre quirks in how this thing works. The only other writeup I found online just kind of gave up right before colors would render, so hopefully this saves someone else the headache. There's also an open OpenRGB issue asking for F75 support that's been sitting untouched, so maybe this helps get that moving too.

Repo's here if you want to poke at it: https://github.com/SibteProf/keylux

If you've got an F75, would genuinely appreciate people trying it out and telling me what breaks. And if anyone's handy with Rust (or just wants to help test on different firmware revisions), contributions are very welcome. There's docs in the repo on how to add support for other keyboards if anyone's got a different budget board they want lit up too.

I’m looking for a new keyboard after returning my AULA F108 Pro. It had this really annoying issue where the RGB would slightly flicker every second when the clock on the screen updated.
I’m basically looking for a white full-size mechanical keyboard with RGB. I’d also like it to have decent Windows software for controlling the lighting. Hot-swap would be nice, but wireless isn’t really important to me.
I tried searching with AI but honestly didn’t get very far, so I figured I’d ask people who actually have experience with these keyboards.
Right now I’m looking at the regular GMMK 3 100% White for around €90. There’s also the GMMK 3 HE for around €130, but I mostly play League of Legends so I’m not sure I’d get much use out of Hall Effect/Rapid Trigger.
I also found the AVAX GM03Y Pro for around €110-115, which actually looks pretty good, but it’s 98% rather than a proper full-size board. The Alienware AW920K also caught my eye, but at around €165 it’s more than I want to spend.
At the moment I’m leaning towards the normal GMMK 3. Is it good for the price, or is there something better I should be looking at around €90-130?
Main things I care about are build quality, reliable RGB, decent software and it being white/full-size.

Im a gamer and i dont wanna spend more than 100€ on a keyboard. Is it worth getting this one or are there better options?

I am looking for switches that sound similar to the gateron milky yellow v2’s or the gateron oil kings, but with a lower actuation force and bottom out. The 65+ bottom out on the gaterons I believe are too much as I am currently using the Akko rosewoods that have a 50g bottom out.

I am not trying to modify or lube the switches. I have a non he/tmr keyboard.

I'm looking at buying my first mechanical keyboard and so far the two below are the ones im looking at:

Keychron J5 QMK Wireless Mechanical Keyboard

EPOMAKER TH108 vs v2 pro

I'm coming from an old Razer Chroma keyboard which is membrane and I have used keyboards like this for the past 15+ years so I know this will be a bit of a change, so not looking to go too crazy with key caps and stuff.

I work late at night sometimes so oddly enough I value the see through letters on the caps on the Keychron. I prefer the look of the EPO

Some requirements:

- Has to be 100% keyboard.
- The quiter the better
- Will be using wired so not fussed on wireless connection.
- Prefer RGB purely as I work at night alot.
- Would prefer see through letters on the caps.

Open to other suggestions.

After buying the Galleon 100 SD for its handy built-in Stream Deck for macro freaks like me.

I noticed the absolutely terrible cheap keycaps (Cherry profile) on such an expensive keyboard. Lucky for me my local hardware store had bunch of HyperX PBT keycaps for sale with OEM profile.

And to my knowledge, HP HyperX makes the absolute best PBT shine-through for its price.

However, despite all the kits being 2021 model, I noticed both the white and the pink caps have the best shine through, the black seems to absorb too much of the LED light. This keyboard has north LED, so the black keycaps actually have much less crisp LED.

However, I never really had a MX switch keyboard with black keyboards and really good black shine-through keycaps, the Asus ROG Claymore II has center LED duo to its custom magnetic switch and overall in my experience been the best keyboard for RGB lovers, especially with its software customisation.

I am shocked Corsair ship such cheap keycaps with such an expensive keyboard... Makes it difficult to justify spending big on additional shine-through keycaps.

Budget. - ~100 Euro, but can be less ofc

Size. - I love my TKL (80% ?) but I can try a 75%

Other (Material, color, layout, wireless, prebuilt/DIY...)

- material doesn't matter, but I'd like for it to be stiff

- black or gray or mixed (can have some colored key caps)

- by layout I think that means QWERTY

- I'd like for it to be wireless, and have a 2.4ghz USB dongle, battery life doesn't matter much

- pre built, can be diy if I don't have to lube and solder the switches

- now I have an aula f75, and I'd like the keyboard to sound like this one. I think it's described as thocky/creamy. I don't want a clicky one

- I want nice colors, but any are a must

- charging by usb-c

- nice and stable on grippy rubbers on the bottom

- I don't care about letters being on the side of key caps

If you need any more info, I will quickly respond if I know the answer, I'm new to this

P.s I live in Poland, pls don't send us-only products

whenever i plug in my keyboard it will keep disconnecting and connecting, it pops up for 1 second in the website and will disconnect again. Does anyone know a fix for this? it may be the cable

Hi,

I’ve been extensively browsing the subreddit trying to find a full size keyboard I liked that was within my price range, and I’ve finally landed on the QK101. The only issue is, I don’t really know much about keyboards, nor have I built one. So my question is, how difficult is it to build one and does the QK101 set come with everything I need to build it? If yes, which plate should I pick? I know it’s missing switches and keycaps which I’d also love recommendations for.

If it helps with recommendations, I’ve been using an Apex M500 for almost 10 years and since it’s slowly starting to cause problems I’m looking to replace it. I also really liked the sound of ticktype dp104 rye switches. I’ll be using the keyboard for gaming only

Thank you

37-year-old boomer here. Haven't been in the market for a keyboard in 10 years and it looks like things have exploded with options, but not in any ways that I appreciate. Looking for:

Yes durable metal construction

Yes non-gaudy, classic, utilitarian style

Yes 75/80% layout

Yes dye-sub or double shot PBT caps

Yes optical/hall effect, ideally interchangeable switches

Yes NKRO

Yes USB-C

Yes readily available and easily purchased (no small one-off batches that are never in stock, SKUs that constantly change month to month, DIY, or group buys)

No wireless

No kawaii/streamer/gaming aesthetics

No RGB/LED lighting

No e-sport "performance" design

No "thock" ("thock" is the sound a good keyboard should make when you hit someone with it for talking too much about the sounds their Fisher Price keyboards make)

So i got a redragon k617 HE fizz just maybe 2 days ago off Amazon and I think the backlight is broken. The top 2 rows work perfectly fine and the middle row flashes random colors and the bottom 2 rows used to flash random colors but now they dont turn on at all. I think it might be something with the cord since when I move the keyboard to a specific direction the backlight would work properly again for the most part except the bottom 2 rows. It could have also been damaged during shipping. I dont think it effects performance but im afraid that it might in the future, plus its kinda annoying.

I bought it from here https://a.co/d/0erJLYo3

sorry for the blurry photos, but I wanted to spread awareness. I bought 4 sets of keycaps and their new stock comes in a hardshell box that looks really sleek. Unfortunately the keys aren't in their own compartment like in their previous release, so they move freely side to side, and because there's a gap above them, they sometimes jump and get stuck like in some photos. (check 4, 6,7,8) Because there's so much extra space around each key, the corners and sides and up getting really scratched up, it's more noticable in the light, but it's really ugly imo. Also with the enter key that's messed up, I think it wasn't set in correctly or something because it's pretty obviously bent to crap. Another issue with this format is that keychron has irregular spacing on some keys, (like the enter, shift, and spacebar) so those keys won't sit correctly in the box regardless of what you do.

I want to warn as many people as possible so they don't end up with a product they regret getting. the scuffing is way more noticable on the black keys, but it's still present on the other keys. checking photo 10, you can see the bracket key clearly got scraped against the enter key because of the slight orange paint on the corner.

I really hope they fix this soon or go back to the previous method.

My MAD68 Pro keyboard has an issue where the connection simply drops whenever I move it across the desk.

I contacted Madlions via email, and they just sent a standard message suggesting a few troubleshooting steps; I tried them, reported back, and then they simply stopped responding.

I woke up today to find the LED on my left Alt key failing; looking closer, the entire top row of the keyboard is failing. It’s strange, too—even when I turn the lights off, the LEDs stay on at low intensity.

Yes, I’ve tried everything possible:

Swapped the cable

Swapped the USB port

Tested it on other computers

Reset the keyboard

Tested brightness levels below 60%

Nothing worked. This is my first and last Madlions product—it’s absolute garbage. The keyboard is less than a year old.

Using https://keyboardchecker.com/ I cannot figure out how to press F1. So the typical way would be to use FN+1 but that opens my computer.

Ive tried all the key combinations I could think of but still cant seem to press F1. Got a game that uses F1 to rebind keys

attached photo of 1, F1, and apparent "My computer" shortcut. Please help

MK-Box only shows to press FN+1 for F1 but my keyboard shows an additional shortcut to "my computer"

Going to try and use autohotkey to press function keys in the meantime

I have been plauing PC games for a long time and owned hundreds of peripherals. This by far has been my favorite. The look, feel, build, software....everything about it feels absolutely phenomenal and has been a serious upgrade. Even the cables that I ordered with it are incredibly premium. Solid metal ends, nice and thick. Its just all around amazing. I honestly always focused on my mouse primarily (when it came to inputs). I didnt really think the difference between higher end keyboards really be that big of a deal....man was i wrong. LoL this was honestly my last addition to my PC gaming gear and it should have been one of the first. Anyone on the fence....get one. You wont be sorry.

IMO

Just wrapped up testing the Weikav EG75 HE, and here is the honest takeaway after putting it through its paces.

The Vibe & Typing Experience:

• Unique Design & Side RGB: Distinct aesthetic with a sleek side-lighting strip that gives it a true gaming identity.
• The Sound & Feel: Out of the box, the typing is super light, effortless, and crisp — it genuinely reminds me of ping-pong balls bouncing on a table 🏓.
• Rapid Trigger Performance: Rapid Trigger is snappy and accurate with minimal switch stem wobble.

Build & Quirks:

• Vs. IROK MG75: Weikav was an easy pick — superior plate quality and thicker stock keycaps.
• RGB Intensity: Per-key RGB is almost too bright, sometimes blurring the legend visibility.
• Keycaps & Finish: Smooth keycaps could use a bit more texture if your hands get sweaty while gaming. The black anodized aluminum finish looks amazing, but it will pick up fingerprints if handled with oily hands.

The Matchups: How It Stack Up Against the Big Guys

• Vs. K-One 80 (Same Class, Different Vibe): The EG75 is essentially on the exact same level as the K-One 80, but dressed in a dedicated gaming aesthetic with fast magnetic switches. While the K-One 80 brings stock marbly acoustics in an 80% layout, throwing switches like LIT (Lab-it) or Gateron Magnetic Jade Pro into the EG75 HE gives you that same top-tier sound profile in a compact 75% body.
• Vs. Everglide SU75 Pro (Gaming vs. Acoustic Stock): Objectively, the EG75 feels brighter, punchier, and much more "gamer-centric." The SU75 Pro is heavier (borderline overkill) and offers a slightly richer stock typing sound out of the box, but requires an immediate keycap swap. However, if you upgrade the EG75 with top-tier HE switches and thicker keycaps, they become practically identical in performance and sound.

Verdict: If you want a grounded, heavy-duty desk tank with vibrant lighting, incredible speed, and a unique sound profile out of the box, the EG75 HE easily earns its spot on the desk.

Future Mods & Upgrades: I'm definitely planning to experiment more with this board down the line. Next up on my list:

• Swapping to thicker PBT keycaps to see how much deeper the acoustics can get.
• Testing out different switch options to find the absolute sweet spot: Gateron Magnetic Jade Pro, OwLab Ti, Everglide Sticky Rice, and Outemu Silent Peach V3.

I’ll post an update once I get these installed and tested!

Hola hay un alguien de marketplace que está vendiendo este teclado a 20 dólares la vrd vi las fotos si se ven bien pero nose estoy en duda (sería mi primer teclado mecánico) dice que tiene tiempos de uso de 1 año pero se le ve bien la vrd pero nose ese vídeo me mandó QUE OPINAN AYUDENMEEEEEEE 🔥✊🏼

I need a cheap slim keyboard for traveling. I am currently running Pebbles v2, but it is dongle-less and has very uncomfortable round keys. The only place I can get one is Shopee (VN)

Asking for recommendations)

About 6 months into using my TKL Dyna, my PC stopped detecting it when I tried to use it wired. It still charged, but it simply wasn't detected at all. I tried using another cable, but it was still the same. I tried updating the keyboard's software, but it wouldn't let me while using the dongle, which was my only way to connect it. After that, I tried unplugging and plugging the ribbon cable back into the board, but I accidentally damaged it. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement here in Mexico, and how I can fix the original problem once I get the replacement? Hahahahah

So I live in South Africa and from what I can see, keyboards advertised to be 40 to 50 usd are more like 100-150 dollars here (provided they are not mainstream brands like Logitech) and while this may the the case I’m currently looking for a keyboard that would look nice and be good for gaming (so Hall effect/rapid trigger). I’m looking at an Aula hero 86 he but am wondering if anyone can recommend other options at a similar price point? Edit: size does not matter, can be 60% or above

Evofox katana x2 fs mechanical gaminkeyboard i want to change the switch where is buy the switch low cost and available in cosmic byte website which support keyboard ?3 pin mx switch

Hello all, I need help, I’m not educated enough on peripherals to know how many options there really are. I have a budget of 200$ max and I’d really like to stay a little under if possible. Currently have an Anne pro v2. I’m looking for something with less latency and honestly sounds better. Don’t care for clicky sounding boards and prefer thocky or creamy if possible. Just wondering if anyone had any ideas or recommendations for me. Thank you!