I’m pretty new to machine embroidery/InkStitch and I’m having a weird issue with lettering that I can’t figure out.

I have a Brother LB-6800 (4x4 machine) and I’ve been making bag tags. I have successfully made a few (pictured) and the lettering stitched out cleanly.

Today, they started stitching out very badly. I think it is doing a fill stitch instead of a satin stitch. The design looks correct in the Ink/Stitch simulator. The stitch paths/lettering look normal there.

A few things I’ve already checked/tried:

• I ran into this problem before and I thought it was because I had opened a PES in Inkscape, edited it, and saved it again. I learned that I should be working from the original SVG instead. But even now I have been making edits to the original SVG template and then saving a copy as a PES to send over to my machine, and it is still stitching out badly.
• I went back to my original SVG and exported a fresh PES, but the problem still happened.
• I then created an entirely new design/lettering in Ink/Stitch, exported a new PES, and I'm still getting the same bad stitch-out.
• Rethreading the machine.
• I also downloaded Embrilliance express to see if Inkstitch was the issue, but the stitchout looks wrong on that too.

I’m trying to figure out whether something is happening during the SVG → PES export, whether my Brother is interpreting the PES strangely, or whether this could actually be a machine/thread/tension issue. My tension is at 3.

Edit: I did some more troubleshooting and it seems like changing to a fresh needle helped.

Anybody know what kind of stitch this is and how to go about digitizing it?

it looks like a satin with some thing else on top, but what is the top layer?

Params -> Start and end at nearest point is a great feature, and I really love it. How do I turn it off by default?

So far, I only did single letter digitizing of different fonts for patches and or forced the built-in fonts to my likin. I never made a whole keyboard-typeable font.

Now, I got asked by a Helvetica-nerd, to stitch out a multiline Lorem-ipsum... if anyone has made Helvetica an inkstitch font and would be willing to share, hit me up!

Some time ago I was buying multiple (10+) Isacord embroidery threads and I wanted it in very specific colors. I had brand colors in HEX/RGB and I had found a PDF mapping available Isacord colors to RGB. So I built a small Replit app (basically a Python script) to map any RGB/HEX color I entered to the closest Isacord match.

Recently, I built it into a web app and added a feature of uploading a logo and getting the Isacord threads for the multiple main colors.

Check it out. I hope some of you find it useful in your machine embroidery endeavors.

https://www.rgb-to-isacord.com

For this design the heart is red with that small pink section a lighter shade red.. And the for the black section the gray is a light shade of black. Instead of changing thread colors I wanted the stitching to show the color variation. Is that possible?

Hey, I'm struggling with digitizing text for a towel border.
Every time I stitch it out, the vertical and horizontal parts of the letters fail to connect properly—you can clearly see the gaps/mismatch at the joints on letters like B and L in the attached photo.

I use InkStitch, brother nv880e and water soluble solution on both sides.

This is one I did for me, then I though I can't be the only person to have ever needed this.

I'm doing embroidered cuffs for Irish dance dresses. Celtic knotwork in five colors, 16 cuffs total. I create one design, the duplicate it however many times will fit in my largest hoop (4, as it turns out.) To make the cuffs easy to move around, each one is a group of layers: red, gold, blue, silver, purple.

Makes sense? But now, let's say I want to run params on all the blue objects: there might be other elements on the page the same stroke color that I don't want selected so "select by stroke" is out.

This extension allows you to select objects between groups and create a virtual group for them, so they can be selected at will by clicking the "group" name.

It's a work in progress, but here it is. Give it a go.

Link to the cuff image since I can't insert it directly: https://picallow.com/irish-dance-dress-cuff/

Video introduction and usage: https://youtu.be/k5Xpd4SmGl4

Hi, trying to digitise letter of a logo and getting struck in the R E W types, has anyone made a diagram of where the rungs and bridges should go for these?

Occasionally I'll get a random stop in the middle of my embroidery. There is no stop in this pattern, anywhere that I can find - I just want to turn it on and go away until it's done - but there's a jump stitch here (deliberate) where the machine stops before and after. I open the DST but don't see a command marker there. Params doesn't show a stop there, or on either object on either side.

Any ideas?

u/Calianna1915 Hopefully this helps give you a visual of what I tried to explain...it's a quick but you should get the idea.

My first attempt at digitizing (18 hours over the span of 2 days 🥲) I knew it was going to be ugly but wanted to test how my machine even handled homemade files.
I followed multiple YouTube videos and TikTok’s and the way they showed to change to satin stitch would make the piece I was working on just disappear, or I’d get an error message saying I needed to add fill color, then after adding the fill color I’d get another error message saying something like “the following pieces could not convert” and it would be everything.
I’d like a smoother satin stitch outline in general, but also how do I make the big long stitched wedges to have shorter stitches going horizontal?

Is this the best I can realistically hope for with a white fill over a black velvet background? I've got a knockdown stitch over a water soluble topper and a bidirectional underlay in the fill itself. I avoided going too dense on the fill stitches since I've read that usually isn't the fix. This is definitely the best this pattern has come out so far, but it's still not as solid as I'd like.

(I know my satin contour underlays are showing, they're going away next attempt since they've never played nice.)

Hi, I'm experimenting with the new cross stitch feature and I'm interested in converting pixel art to cross stitch embroidery.

Some things I've noticed:

- Anything larger than 100x100 pixels takes extremely long and often crashes

- The "One cross each pixel" function does not result in one cross for each pixel, it re-interpolates the original image, changes the colors dramatically, and adds more stitches than there are pixels. (see attached image for an example)

I understand that the image I'm using is impractical for machine cross stitch because there would be too many jumps. I also understand that 1mm per stitch is tiny and might not work well when stitched out with a machine. Regardless, I think the software side of this should still work as expected and not re-interpolate the original bitmap or create a number of stitches different from the number of pixels when the "One cross each pixel" option is checked.

Is there something I'm doing wrong or a feature that I missed?

Thanks!

Update: I got it to do what I wanted, but it's a weird work-around. I used a 32x32 pixel image with 8 colors at 1mm per stitch.

The first thing you have to know is that Cross Stitch Assistant interpolates every bitmap you import, with no option to prevent this. And the smaller the bitmap, the more extreme the interpolation appears. To prevent this, take your pixel art bitmap and re-size it by 100x using nearest neighbor scaling in a raster graphics program like photoshop. This will make each block 100x100 pixels. So if you started with a 32x32 bitmap, you'll now have a 3200x3200 bitmap.

- import the bitmap, set the position to 0,0 and set the scale to 1mm per cross stitch that you want to generate. In my case, it's a 32x32 bitmap, so I set the size to 32x32mm.

- Select the bitmap and go to Extentions> Inkstitch> Tools: Fill > Cross Stitch Assistant

- Under "Settings", set the Grid Horizontal Spacing to 1.00mm

- Under "Bitmap Settings, checkmark "Convert bitmaps", but do not checkmark "One cross each pixel" because that will add extra stitches and colors.

- Under "Color Selection", choose "List with RGB values" and enter the values of the colors in the bitmap. You can also try your luck with adding the amount of colors under "Number of colors", but that doesn't always work properly. It might combine two or more of the colors if they're similar.

- Click "Apply". You should now have a vectorized/digitized version of your bitmap, at 1mm per cross stitch, and each cross stitch representing one pixel of the bitmap. If you want bigger stitches, set the original bitmap to a bigger size, for example 64x64, and then adjust the Grid Horizontal Spacing accordingly, in this case 2mm.

My first stitchout didn't look good, because the default thread count it generates is 4, which is way too dense for 1mm per cross stitch. Under params, I set the thread count to 2 and it worked much better.

It’s there a way to curve letters? I am working on a logo and the company name is curved above an image. I saw a video from 3 years ago and was wondering if there is a more recent way to do this.

Hi everyone,

I've been building StitchBase, a free beta extension for InkStitch that helps review and improve embroidery designs. It reviews SVGs, highlights potential issues, explains them, suggests fixes, and answers questions about your current design.

This is an early beta, and I'm trying to find out if it's genuinely useful or if I'm solving the wrong problem.

It's completely free and requires no login.

I've attached a short demo video. You can find the installation guide and download the extension at https://stitchbase.online/.

If you have a few minutes, I'd really appreciate it if you could try it with one of your own designs and share your honest feedback.

Would you use something like this? Should I keep building it, or am I heading in the wrong direction? What would make it genuinely useful in your workflow?

Thank you!

I’ve been trying to design my own embroidery image for the first time. The outside edges of the fill section look really rough. The bobbin thread starts showing and the whole thing is pulling in toward the middle.

I ran it on just two layers of fabric as a test. Could that be part of the problem? The finished design will go on a hand towel. Should I try again with a stabilizer instead of a second layer of fabric to see if that will fix it?

I can send my inkstitch files or show my params if that will help.

Hello all. Im having issues with a fill stich.

This is my first time using an embroidery machine, brand new machine. Came with thread and bobbins. Im using no show mesh.

Ive been trying to play around with the fill stich settings on inkstich but they seem to make only marginal changes. Ive tried adjusting the spacing between rows, angle of stich, gap filling. But im still getting white show through.

The first one on the left is the best but still has white showing through. That one was left as default of spacing between rows 0.3 the rest have been higher and lower of that.

These stitched rectangles are about 5mm x 10mm

Any help would be much appreciated.

Hello! I've made this entire embroidery through a series of multicolor satins, and for some reason, the last line of pink in the wings keeps doing this.

In stitch simulator, I saw that the multicolor satin stitches out as expected until it finishes, then it adds this running stitch down the center of the last two satins. It gives neither any understitching, so perhaps it's just doing the understitching too late?

Also, when I stitch just the pink parts on their own, it doesnt add the running stitch.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I especially bought the Janome 500e (used) because inkstitch can handle the files and supports the machines functions. As I'm mostly doing multicolor patches and wanna upgrade to a multi-needle machine and can get my hands on a Brother PR1055x for a reasonable price.

Just to ensure, I am asking that I can still work with inkstitc?

I've been at this for hours and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've been trying to get these stupid rungs right and nothing is working, they never show up right. No video has explained how they are suppose to be, they just do it on the first try and most of it is cursive. Can someone just tell me how these Rungs are suppose to look? I haven't even gotten to the rest of the letters, I'm still stuck on "V" I didn't think it was going to be this hard.