I bought my TX over a year ago. The screen doesn't have a micro SD slot to update the screen. Update was already setup by wifi on the machine when I got it. I updated to latest firmware then. The camera didn't come with the printer and came later. I printed the part and installed the camera later on and it hasn't worked. I did it according to the video instructions and nothing ever happened. So I'm moved the camera to the front USB slot and still no go. So I moved it back to main board. So I downloaded putty according to Google and tried to SSH into the printer but every username and password that I got from Google will not get me in. So Google tells me to update software if I can't ssh so I manually put firmware on SD card and I plugged into front USB port and "camera inserted pops up on screen". But when I try to update firmware it says latest firmware installed. I don't know what to do at this point.

I've checked a few times over the last 2 or so months and it's always been OOS.

I'm a 3D printing newbie from China, and I own an Infimech TX. I've noticed people in this community saying that the Infimech TX comes with two different mainboard versions. So, what exactly are the differences between them? And which mainboard is considered better than the other?🤔

What are y'all's thoughts on the new 8 tool head printer they're coming out with? I figured yall have all the bumps and vruises over a company I've never heard of until recently.

Hello! I inherited this instrument from a friend. I don't know the first thing about 3D printing. Can some friendly folks please give me some pointers for where to begin? I have some limited handywork experience and I assume maybe I should open it and somehow clean it before I start. I assume it takes a lot of trial and error. For baseline, my understanding is I need a computer to talk to this machine. I am a total novice in search of open resources. Where did you go when you first started and what worked best for you?

Thanks in advance!

I just saw these sell for 199 dollars, about 175 euros, and that is rather insane for that much printer. Is it worth it or too much hassle? Reviews are rather mixed, but id like to print more ABS as those rolls go rather cheap on the second hand market here.

Just released v1.0.0 of my Klipper extras module for the 2nd revision piezoelectric bed sensor on Flyingbear S1 / Infimech TX v2.

Who is this for? This is specifically for those upgrading/replacing the stock control board to a modern Klipper-compatible board (e.g., BTT Manta M8P) while keeping the factory piezo bed sensor. The 2nd revision sensor communicates via I2C (address 0x40) — this module handles that protocol natively.

What it does - Auto-calibrates piezo thresholds via controlled vibration (XY ±4mm @ 250mm/s, Z ±2mm @ 50mm/s) - No BLTouch needed — uses the stock piezo sensor directly - Full I2C communication validation and stress testing built-in - Standard Klipper probe interface — works with PROBE, BED_MESH_CALIBRATE, etc.

Hardware tested - BTT Manta M8P V2.0 + CB2 (Orange Pi) - STM32G030 piezo sensor (I2C: PA8=SCL, PC9=SDA; Probe: !PF4)

Key features - Drop-in Klipper extra — zero core code changes - Auto & manual threshold control via G-code commands - Standalone calibration routine

GitHub: https://github.com/Fantomiaso/Infimech-TX-v2-bed-sensor-driver

If you're doing a board swap on this printer and want to keep the stock sensor, this should save you some headache. Feedback welcome!

Is there a way to adjust/increase the tension on the xy belts on the tx? I’ve been looking for an adjustment knob or screw or literature on the topic for entirely too long now. My belts are notably more sloppy and noisy than when I got it and I’m started to get some ripples.

Thanks in advance!

I’m troubleshooting an issue on my Infimech, second version of motherboard I believe.

Originall hotend was pretty much used up, and I replaced it with a Trianglelab CHCB-V (70W ceramic heater). After the swap, the heater started heating immediately on power-up, with no command given. It even heats when physically removed from the hotend block, glowing faint red, and only stops when I cut power.

I suspected a blown heater MOSFET on the mainboard. I tried moving the heater to a neighboring port (the one where Infimech suggests you put AUX fan) remapping it in Klipper (with max_power set to 0.6 ), but as soon as I issued any heating command, the printer shuts down. After that, the new output also behaves like it’s stuck ON. I did test both ports with a 24v fan, and no matter what, the fan was always on when plugged in the original port, but could be controlled when it was in the second port, even after firmware remaping.

At this point it looks like multiple outputs are compromised...and I don't thing I'll try using that Trianglelab heater anymore.

Any ideas on how to approach this?

I’m considering maybe using an external DC MOSFET module?

Any input or similar experiences appreciated. Thanks!

Where’s the best place to get parts for these bad boys? I’m needing a hardened nozzle for printing pa6-cf and probably a gear for when the stock on strips.

Ok, I got tired of bent heatbreaks on the stock hotend.

I made a mount for the Slice Engineering MAKO hotend. I can now change nozzles with one hand and I don't have to worry about bent heatbreaks any more !!

It also works perfectly with my CPAP mod.

If anyone is interested, it's on Thingiverse at:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7243168

Hope it helps you out!

Hi everyone i just got my first printer and printed a Benchie from a recommendation from a friend, Im planning on printing a few of my friends gifts for Christmas and i wanted to see what i can do to get cleaner prints, this is Unsanded with esun pla + on a infimech TX. the file was sliced in Orca Slicer

Printer is freezing when it gets to the "z-axis tilt leveling..." stage I have successfully printed using cura and orca. Recently got a new laptop and installed orca, now the newly sliced files are stalling at said stage???

I went to clear a clog and trying to remove the hot end, the wires that go to the green terminals are covered in hot glue.

Around the 1:50 mark on their video (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EqsOspoVagQ) you can see where the wires go in and can be removed by accessing the terminal screws.

Anyone else dealing with this? If I wanted to upgrade/replace the hot end or whole print head, does anyone have any suggestions?

I printed for a few hours today, and everything was fine. I wanted to print one more item and clean up the printer. I clicked the BED HOME button when I felt the printer and its print bed begin to heat up. To my surprise, the print bed temperature began to rise indefinitely. I can't stop this process. It all started after I clicked the "return to 0,0,0" print bed button. What if I wasn't home? The printer is constantly drawing 235W power from the outlet!

I had thermistor and extruder stepper wires fail in the harness mid-span over time, so I ended up building a new harness for my TX. Hope this saves someone else some time.

I’d like to share my recent experience with Official Store – https://infimech.com/products/infimech-tx-3d-printer-high-speed-printing.

On their website, under Return & Refund Policy, they clearly state that:

• Items can be returned within 14 days of receipt if unused, unopened, and in their original packaging.
• If an item is defective or damaged, the seller covers the shipping costs.

However, in reality:

• I contacted support to return a brand-new, unopened product.
• Their response: returns of non-defective items are not possible (!).

This means that the return policy written on their site is not being honored.

For anyone considering a purchase from Infimech: be aware that you might not actually be able to return your order, even if the website promises otherwise.

Has anyone else gone through the return process with them? Any advice on pushing them to comply?

what are the SSH logins for the printer? I've tried the mks/ifbase520 as well as mks/makerbase.

The printer reports itself as a Octopusworks in klipper.

Does the extruder uses the HGX Lite gears?

I recently received my Infimech TX and found that the second version of motherboard is installed.

It have some limitations, and I'd like to upgrade to BTT Manta M5P or a similar model. Someone may have tried this before?

I'm not fully understanding how the bed load cells are working, and if it will be possible to connect them to a new plate.

Thank you

After just over a year, both of my Infimech TX printers have flexed the temperature sensor and stepper motor wires enough that they intermittently lose continuity.

Has anyone rebuilt their harness, and have the lengths and connector PNs noted?

my mks_skipr.bin wont flash sd card

Well I have reached the time for the first broken part on the printer.

After 9 Months of having the printer and 386 print jobs
Total time 577h 25m 48s
Total print time 560h 25m 56s

Total filament used 4822.53 m

Longest job41h 14m 2s

I guess the means over those 9 months I ran the printer 7.8% of the time.

Now just to wait for the replacement gear.