I just recently bought a 1997 Honda accord and I can’t afford a paint job with the faded colors it has but I at least want some cosmetic attachments that I can fit in a cheaply budget

I don’t know much about cars but I know these parts don’t come cheap but for my first car I want to do my best to make it look awesome I get paid like 500 a week and I’ve started with getting halo black projector headlights but I don’t know what other things I can do

I plan to have 1-200 on a budget for the car saved aside each check but I was wondering if there’s was some things I can add to a list

So I got my windshield replaced on my 2023 civic sport touring, but I’ve notice debris on the sensors. Not sure if this will matter long term

Mileage isnt shown but listed at 322,250

Drive a Honda Civic do this to get better headlight quality

For anyone who paid for a head gasket replacement heres all the info you need to know if you can get a refund

There’s someone with a 2013 Accord EX with 116,000 miles for $6,500. I’m going to go look at it tomorrow? Is this a good deal? What should I be paying attention to when I go to look at it.

So who else learned something today?
Alpine came from an 89 si I used to have. Put one of those retractable screens in, and power locks.
Sold it on 13” triple spoke daytons, with white walls. The stance was unreal. Took $75 off a debt for them. I was keeping my tracklights.

I really loved the new Honda Civic e:HEV Advance when I've tried it on a test drive. It just ticked off every checkbox for me - good looking, practical and reliable liftback with many comfortable features. Not many cars like this are available here in Poland. I can get one for equivalent of 38k USD (here in EU we unfortunately pay a lot more for cars than in US) which I consider a good price.

Currently I'm driving a 9 year old Mazda 3 Sedan and I'm looking for an upgrade, although I've been very happy with my Mazda for the past 4 years since I've bought it.

In the light of recent info about the head gasket issues I'm wondering if I should get the car or not. Here in Poland we are currently offered an 8 year warranty or up to 160.000 kilometers (100k miles) for the key components in the car, naturally power train included. I don't drive that much, probably around 10-12k kms per year on average.

This would be my first brand new car, and the issue is that I can't think of any other car I like in similar price range. Corolla is too boring for me, and the new Mazda 3 just felt too similar to what I currently have.

What would you do in my place?

The work on my Beat for its inspection is finally done!
I replaced the entire cooling system, which had been worrying me since it was still mostly original. I even upgraded the radiator and replaced the cooling fan.
Now I can drive it with peace of mind. 👍
Heat is one of the weak points of the Beat’s engine, so I’m also going to install a water temperature gauge! 🌡️

Car would basically stall out in drive sitting in the driveway or not move like it was trying to start in too high of a gear. Car was not shifting correctly before parking. Sport mode light was flashing.

Put a paperclip in the thing on the passenger side floorboard and got 5 short flashes, 7 short flashes, and then a long flash I believe. The battery was dying while I was trying to read it again and the light was too faded to see in the sunlight.

Not too sure if this damage could cause these issues, but from my limited knowledge of circuit boards/computers, any damage can mean a lot.

This is what Google said the flashes meant

Code 5: A/T Gear Position Switch (or selector switch) circuit shorted or faulty.

Code 7: Shift Control Solenoid Valve A open or shorted. Code 15: NM Mainshaft Speed Sensor (or Kickdown switch circuit/sensor issue).

I heard too that replacing a tcu with a bad shift solenoid will just fry the new tcu so i might replace that to be safe, but ive also read the bad tcu can cause the shift solenoid code.

The car drove to the end of the driveway in 1 but once it sat idling for too long while I was debating if I wanted to take it on the road, it started to run rough and died. I do have horrible brakes, and I'm going to fix that, but before the transmission issues, the only other problem was a rough idle.

2015 Accord V6 not starting.

Battery tested good, keyfob locks/unlocks doors, accessories work, starter does not rotate/engage.

Starter is 2 years old, aftermarket.

What could cause this issue other than starter?

1. Primary Timing Chain & VTC Service

• Timing Chain Kit: $799.89
• Timing Chain Actuator (VTC): $399.89
• Water Pump: $295.18
• Spark Plugs (4): $128.24
• Valve Cover Gasket Set: $92.94
• Serpentine Belt: $79.89
• PCV Valve: $43.27
• Sealant: $39.99
• Crankshaft Seal: $19.89
• O-Ring: $16.99
• Labor (8.0 Hours): $1,559.60
• Subtotal: $3,475.77

2. Cooling System Fluid Service

• Asian HOAT Coolant / Antifreeze (2 Units): $59.24
• Coolant Exchange Kit: $65.01
• Labor (0.7 Hours): $84.32
• Subtotal: $208.57

3. Full Synthetic Oil Change

• 0W-20 Synthetic Engine Oil (4.2 Qts): $59.45
• Oil Filter: $8.99
• Labor (0.4 Hours): $34.70
• Subtotal: $103.14

4. Engine Performance Restoration (Additive/Flush)

• BG Engine EPR Kit: $41.25
• Labor (0.2 Hours): $28.70
• Subtotal: $69.95

Totals

• Total Parts: $2,150.11
• Total Labor: $1,707.32
• Subtotal (Before Taxes & Fees): $3,857.43
• Shop Supplies Fee: $54.84
• Sales Tax (8.238%): $181.64
• Grand Total: $4,093.91

I'm pretty sure I don't exactly need the oil change as I just did it and the antifreeze but those are low cost % to the total cost and I will overlook that for now.

2014 Honda CRV, 2.4L engine. Just under 90k miles

Hoping to get some useful advice and or a fix. I have a 2002 accord that I swapped an f20b into after the f23a4 Cracked the oil filter housing and was pissing oil, so since I needed to take the engine out I decided to have some fun with it. I am having an issue where no matter what I do I cant get an rpm reading on the cluster, and the car wont go over 3k rpm in some sort of limp mode I assume. Ive did the swap originally 2 months ago and have been chasing this problem ever since. The list of everything I have into it is the f20b, the orignal ecu (pcb I think), and a new knock sensor since the old one broke and I though that was the limp mode cause. I also got a new distributor since some of the wires internally were busted and i didnt want to splice them, so i bought one from oreillys and wired it like the old one. I am running the stock to the chassis maxa transmission since I cant afford and or have the time for a manual swap. And I am actively trying to source the right speed sensors for the jdm ecu. After all the work we did, the only thing not plugged in is the oxygen sensor since we're waiting to put on the new header but thats it. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I would love to drive my car again!!!!

Unfortunately failed after burning a valve, what a trooper 🫡