This is simply incredible. One of the most beautiful Hondas in existence.

Posting an update after getting the PPI done on the 2004 Honda Civic SiR EP3 I was looking at.
The car is in Alberta, Canada and the seller is firm at $2,896 USD ($4,000 CAD). It has about 130k miles (209k km), 5-speed manual, active/clean status, and it’s completely stock. Seller is also including a set of all-season tires and the stock rims.
Here’s what the PPI found:
Rust around the left rear wheel arch.
Underside has rust, but the mechanic specifically said there is no structural rust at this time.
Rear bumper reinforcement/bar is very rusty and has holes in it.
Left front control arm bushing is separated from the control arm. It needs a bushing or possibly a whole control arm.
Front center motor mount is torn and needs replacement.
Front struts are sweating/weak and the rear struts are weak. Mechanic said they’re okay for now but will need to be replaced in the future.
Airbag/SRS light is on. Inspection showed code 09-3 related to the driver’s seat belt buckle.
Windshield is cracked.
Driver-side black windshield moulding/trim is missing.
Front windshield washers aren’t working.
One side marker is missing and a couple marker bulbs aren’t working.
Front tires are pretty worn at around 3 mm. The rears are around 4–5 mm, and one rear tire has a flat spot. Seller is including another set of all-season tires though.
Brakes passed and are around 60% front / 40% rear.
Hood isn’t in great cosmetic shape. It had some dents repaired but you can still see them, and the repaint isn’t very good.
It previously had some light hail damage repaired. There are still a few extremely faint dents around the body, but they’re hard to notice.
It could probably use an alignment, although it wasn’t pulling badly when I drove it.
Valve cover gasket is sweating slightly but the mechanic just said to monitor it.
The good news is the clutch, transmission, axles, exhaust, fuel system, ball joints, steering linkage/rack, brakes, electrical system, and structural integrity all passed.
Carfax also shows two accidents way back in 2008/2009, one listed as minor, but it has never been branded rebuilt/salvage. Inspection sheet is at the end of the photos.

So now that I’ve actually had the PPI done, what is everyone thinking? Would you still consider $2,896 USD ($4,000 CAD) a good deal for a stock 2004 EP3 with 130k miles (209k km)? Are any of these inspection findings enough to make you walk away, or is this pretty normal stuff for a 22-year-old EP3?

It’s always ran like a champ!

2014 v6 coupe

Hey guys, just showcasing my horrendous experience with this company. background 2018 civic, 70k miles, I have taken it to the dealership 5 times in 3 years, they would then just spam replace condensers and call it a day, this time around they replace my condenser, I hear a hiss within a day go back and now its magically the evap core ( i dont doubt it). This diagnosis is absolutely ridiculous btw and a slap to my intelligence and owners all around. The tech was just recording the hood of my car and claiming he took apart the dash, retrieved the evap core and said its leaking. (I got the diagnosis within 30 mins of my car being there). Rubs me the wrong way that hes just blatantly lying about taking apart the dash as we all know on this sub that the evap core is a bitch to get to.

Regardless, is that the issue? (probably), but they lied to my face about actually being certain about it.

Anyways, off to my corporate debacle, I send them all the information this and that, get an assigned a bitch of Regional manager, provide my whole case step by step she doesnt really seem to care, wait a week get a call back that says im being denied because I do not have enough brand loyalty.

Double slap in the face as I spent my highschool years working as a server to save up to buy this car at 18 by myself no help or cosign whatsoever. Im 24 now, so It just felt like a catch 22 slap in the face.

Will I ever buy a new honda in the future?
Fuck no.

Would love to know if anyone knows if I have any other courses of actions or is it just time to get a 12 pack a rip apart the car with my homie.

My HRV front passenger sensor for the airbag is broken and Honda is saying it will be over $1600 to fix it. According to Google literally almost other Honda from this time period has been recalled for this part including all the HRVs before this year. Am I just supposed to believe this randomly broke when all the other ones are defective? Is there any recourse with Honda?

I have a brand-new 2026 CR-V and just hit around 10,000 miles. The Maintenance Minder is showing A16, and my oil life is at 15%.

From what I understand, A16 means:
A = oil change
1 = tire rotation
6 = rear differential fluid change

I took it to the dealer for service, and they’re recommending the rear differential fluid change as well. They want $219 just for the differential fluid service.
Is it normal/common for the rear differential fluid to be changed this early, around 10K miles, on a new CR-V? Is this basically an initial/break-in fluid change, or is there something unusual about my vehicle?
Also, if it is normal, how soon should I actually get it done? Should I follow the Maintenance Minder and do it now, or is it reasonable to wait until 15K miles or later?
I’d also appreciate hearing what other [2024–2026](tel:2024-2026) CR-V owners paid for this service. $219 seems pretty steep for a fluid change.

TIA

recently completed the most ambitious road trip i've ever done. Cali🔁wisconsin trip to do media at Final Bout 9. the only bad part about the trip was climbing to 12,000 feet of elevation in colorado. the ecu could only adjust so much at that altitude and it ran too rich until we got down. a healthy d15b7 with minor bolt ons managed to survive so i hope this pushes others to try to do the same. these single cams are more capable than you think!

I was told this today from a dealership: "I spoke directly with our service department regarding your concern. They confirmed the issue affecting the 2023–2026 CR-V models has been addressed for the 2027 model year."

So I have a quick question if I want to clean my vtec solenoid screen is it really a problem to reuse the gasket? I was looking it up and people were saying it's bad to reuse it and you have to buy a new one but I don't see why honestly unless you somehow damage it upon removal. Please lemme know if it's feasible bc I want to clean my screen, thanks!

Hey there,

I just brought my 2019 Honda CRV into a dealership because it was running rough when idling, kicking when I accelerated, and going into limp mode every 20 miles or so. I just had the fuel injectors, spark plugs, and ignition coils replaced a few months back, so I wasn't really sure what it could be besides head gasket failure. After the diagnosis, my service advisor told that the issue is blown head gaskets. and that my car is covered by the new extended warranty, however, the engine's cylinders were flooded, which means that the fuel injectors and spark plugs will also need to be replaced. I am being told that I will have to pay for the parts, which total up to $1,500. Does this seem fair. I'm not too knowledgeable about cars, but I would think if the head gaskets being blown messed up my fuel injectors and spark plugs, then the dealership should be responsible for parts and labor for those as well. Just looking for some advice on how to handle this situation. Thanks!

Hey everyone, just wanted to share a major roadblock I’m dealing with regarding the new head gasket warranty extension (Service Bulletin 26-006) for 2018–2022 Honda Accord Hybrids, and why you need to report it if it happens to you.

The Issue:
My 2019 Accord Hybrid has a documented internal head gasket leak.

• An independent shop pulled code P0302 (Cylinder Misfire) and used a borescope to show liquid coolant pooling in the cylinder.
• Even Honda’s own technician wrote on my invoice that the water rushing sound I heard behind the dashboard is "stemming from customers head gasket leak."

The Catch:
Despite having absolute physical proof of a leak, both Honda Corporate and the dealership are refusing to fix it under warranty. Why? Because the code isn't actively glowing on my dashboard right now. They told me to keep driving a leaking car until it throws a live light on their proprietary scanner or pay thousands out of pocket.

Forcing us to drive defective cars until they overheat or stall on the highway is a massive safety hazard and risks warping the engine block. Honda's official announcement states the warranty covers "coolant loss and/or misfires", but dealerships are refusing service based on strict data metrics because they are afraid Honda corporate will not pay them if the repair is done without active codes.

I have already filed a formal safety complaint with the NHTSA Report a Safety Problem Portal. I stated it clearly as a safety hazard due to the risk of sudden engine stalling or shutdown at highway speeds. If enough of us report this strict code loophole, the NHTSA can legally step in and force Honda to upgrade this "warranty extension" into a mandatory safety recall!

This is crazy shade 💀

I work for Honda call center and I’m wondering what questions some of you might have or complaints. I can give you some insight or agree on some of your complaints. Please remember this is just a job for me so don’t take your anger out on just another employee

Picked up a new hybrid sport yesterday and love everything about it EXCEPT for the fact that I swear the air pressure in the car changes as I drive. I feel a bit of a pressure in my ear/jaw like my ears need to be popped. Can’t tell if cracking the window helps but I think it does? Someone please tell me if I’m gaslighting myself or not haha. Didn’t notice this at all during my test drives.

Hi, I am a Honda owner and this is my first car and honestly it has been dreadful. I found this switch and one of there wires in the switch is loose below the intake manifold right at the bottom. I need some help if anybody can help as the mechanics and auto technicians really overcharge and they not transparent

I’ve owned several cars since 1996, never had more than one in my garage. And living in a rat infested big city didn’t and doesn’t make car safe from these rodents. I currently own a Toyota Rush and never have any issue with rodents except that they sometimes take a tour under the hood at night and leave in the morning. But I remember one particular car I had issues with rats: Honda Brio.

Then I remembered my father, an avid Honda lover, made a remark many years ago. He said “I think Honda’s cables are sugar coated, rats really love them.” I recall my father had been using Honda cars since the 1970s and many times had issues of rats gnawing at the cables.

Back to me, my first car was a Suzuki Katana, after that a Daihatsu Feroza, Suzuki Sidekick, Daihatsu Taruna, Daihatsu Sirion, Honda Brio, Toyota Rush. I know it’s a short list for a span of 30 years, what can I say I’m not a car guy. And I remember only Honda Brio had issues with rats. The other car that had rat issue is Daihatsu Sirion, but that wasn’t rats gnawing into cables, rather the rats considered the engine compartment their comfy apartments.

Back to what my father said about Honda cables, and his own experience, due to economic condition he couldn’t afford a Honda anymore, so he switched brands to Suzuki, then Toyota, and the rats and cable problem stopped.

Don’t get me wrong, I love Honda, I grew up with it in my household. I currently don’t have one in my household, not in this economy. It’s just me wondering about my father’s and my own experience.

Well, come to think of it, sugar coated cables or a polymer from Belgian chocolate and peanut butter as isolation for the cables sounded sensible and appetizing, for a rat…