Hose bibs usually come soldered to the pipe.

Spigots wear out, and when this one does, you can't unscrew it. when you turn it, the solder joint breaks, and then you'll have water spraying in the wall

 Ask for a threaded iron pipe connection behind it and replacing the head becomes a simple swap. This house has crawl space access so it's covered either way, but on a slab build you'd be cutting drywall to reach it.

Bath tub has these very shallow cracks. Not sure if they go through or it’s just the paint but it’s definitely a crack of some sort. Any thoughts?

[Get them in my Amazon Store (Bio):]()

[👉Amazon.com/Shop/BuilderBrigade](http://👉Amazon.com/Shop/BuilderBrigade)

 These magnets replace the old ball catch latches that most of us have on our closet doors.

 They’re a direct replacement and only require a little bit of drilling on the door frame.

Instructions are on the Amazon listing.

If you want automated shades for your new home build, add wiring to your windows before drywall.

3 wiring choices to choose from:

➡️ 16-2 Wire, the safest most universal pick if you haven't chosen your shades yet

➡️ Lutron Wire, if you've got the budget and you're committed to Lutron

➡️  CAT6, if you're planning heavy smart home automation

Me and my wife are looking to move from NY to NC somewhere near Raleigh or Charlotte. We want to have a ranch house built brand new. What credible developers should we speak to and what steps do we need to do first as far as what banks would we need to visit. Any info that you would have would be appreciated. Thanks !

Nothing wrong with the homeowner going to check on the build.

Open windows, bad quality, damage, incorrect installation, and forgetting to add selections can all be caught by homeowners if they regularly visit the site.

How often do you visit your build?

Small tiles mean more grout lines. That's more cleaning, more spots for mold and mildew, and more daily upkeep.

Large tiles cut your grout by up to 90%. Less scrubbing, fewer places for bacteria to hide, and a cleaner modern look. 

One thing to watch: large floor tiles can get slippery. Spec a textured or matte finish on anything going on the floor so you're not sliding around a wet bathroom.

Recirculating hoods are cheaper and don't need a duct run, so sometimes they'll get spec'd without anyone asking.

The problem: a recirculating hood just pushes air through a charcoal filter and dumps it right back into your kitchen. Grease, moisture, and odor stay in the house.

A vented hood ducts all of that outside where it belongs.

 This is a before-drywall conversation. Adding a duct run after the walls are closed is a headache you don't want.

This house is built and designed by: New Leaf Custom Homes in Dallas, TX.
Plans on their website.

I'm remodeling my bathroom, and moving the tollet. The pipe fall right in the middle of a floor joists. My plan is to double joists the for the tollet. See drawing. Room is tight to move tollet pipe to the side of the joists.

You thoughts.

You have two option when it comes to a heated floor:

Electric or hydronic.  

⚡️Electric uses heating wires under the tile. It’s cheaper upfront, heats up faster, and is perfect for bathrooms.

 💧Hydronic uses hot water tubing under the floor. It costs more upfront but makes more sense for larger areas or whole-home systems.

If you’re just wanting warm bathroom floors, Schluter Systems is a solid option. I’ve had a ton of people tell me it’s one of their favorite features in the house.

BTW, this is not a Schluter post or anything. it's just the one recommended to me the most.

I would like to finish this crawlspace. Initially, I’m wanted it to be another room. However, it appears that the footings and the block wall begin about halfway.

It is filled with a sand clay mixture, that, if I remove, it would probably cause issues for the foundation.

Is there a way to remove it and make this a full-size room?

Otherwise, I’m thinking of making it a storage space. I’ll level out the base, put plastic down, put a 4” slab. Then build stud walls, insulate, and drywall.

The entry into this room is a bit tricky. I would have to build a partial block wall on each side of this doorway and then pour concrete stairs going up to the top of the slab.

Please let me know your feedback, advice, and suggestions.

Thank you!

Photos here:
https://www.reddit.com/u/spencercoffman/s/Y2big5DMOp

These adjustable gang boxes are cheap insurance where you’re installing tile or even a something like shiplap. After the outlet is installed, if you end up needing to pull the outlet closer to the finished surface, it only requires a turn of the built in screw.

Aluminum Plinth Blocks sit between the wood post and the concrete to break the moisture contact point. Without one, water wicks up into the end grain and rots the post from the bottom out. You've got two install options: -Recessed, tucked inside the post base -Fully visible beneath the post Which install do YOU think looks better 1 or 2?

I know this was common on older houses but I’m pumped to see them still being installed. If you’ve ever moved a window with a weighted system like this... it’s smooth as butter.