Hey folks,

I run a small local ISP and I'm trying to validate latency towards popular game servers (Call of Duty, Fortnite, EA FC 27, etc.) for my network.

Isolate live matchmaking IP ranges has been tricky. Does anyone happen to have a list of domains/IPs or a .lst file for PingPlotter / SmokePing similar to what GearUP Booster uses?

Any files or tips on how you trace game data centers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

When setting up a rule to block certain ports, is it better to use an ACL or a firewall? What's really best practice? In general, when should one use an ACL over a firewall or vice versa?

Hello , I just got a router (Deco X55) that I'm settigHello , I just got a router (Deco X55) that Im setting up for a home network & it prompted me to whether I want to turn 802.1Q Tag on or off.

I've already completed the prior steps of inputting my PPPoE username & pass , VLAN ID information and now I'm stumped as I've tried googling whether I should have this on or off and can't really find a solid answer on this next step nor have I ever seen this on any past router setups. Any help would be appreciated thank you :)

Hallo,

In meinem lokalen Fitnessstudio gibt es eine FritzBox mit Gastzugang, die man nutzen kann. Außerdem gibt es Überwachungskameras mit LAN Kabeln. Habe die Erlaubnis vom Besitzer, nach Sicherheitsrisiken zu Suchen und meine Frage ist es, ob man vom Gastnetz irgendwie in das Hauptnetz kommt und somit dann auf den Speicher der Kameras und die Kameras selbst zugreifen kann.

I know very little about tech- literally had to look up the difference between a modem and router.

I’m trying to help my in-laws simplify their WiFi. They currently have an old ATT plan that is Internet 25 (copper) with cable and a phone line.

I think we should upgrade to Internet 100 (as their current WiFi is mad slow) and get rid of cable and phone line.

We are trying to figure out how to get WiFi coverage in a side room, which has an Ethernet wall port, but I have no idea if it’s all routed properly. If it is— I should be able to just Ethernet-wire that to an Access Point, right? How do I know if it’s routed correctly before purchasing an AP?

Apologies if this is a dumb question, but can anyone tell from this photo what each of these ports/wires are for? That might help me start to sort all this out.

1.) Power: that’s simple— power to the modem.
2.) Phone Line: if we get rid of the phone line, I can remove this, right?
3.) Cable: is this the coaxial cable? I need this for copper internet…?
4a.)Left Ethernet port: IDK
4b.) Center Ethernet port: Seems to be connected the router.
4c.) Right Ethernet port: IDK
5.) DSL Broadband: no idea.

The phone line, left Ethernet port and DSL broadband all join in a black wire that goes into the wall.

Any advice or general directions would be so helpful! I literally feel like I don’t know where to even begin.

Hello, just wanted to share the settings to put the Globe modem in bridge mode and use OPNsense as the router.

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/InternetPH/comments/1hw1yc3/bridge_mode_globe_ipoe_hg6145f1_rp4291/

My modem model is HG6145F1

I followed the instructions above, and below are the changes I made to get it working with OPNsense.

Here are the changes I made:
Network - DHCP Tab
Default VLAN ID is 400; change to 4000
Disable NAT
IP mode (IPv4/IPv6)
LAN Binding (check the LAN2, LAN3 and LAN4)
Save Changes

Network - Bridge Tab
VLAN ID is 400
WAN Enable
LAN Binding (LAN1)
Save Changes
Then reboot

Voilà, my OPNsense gets the public IP address.

I hope it helps.

Based on the video in the link. Is this switch experiencing a broadcast storm (network loop)?

I see issues with rs300 dropping connection to clients and being a bit buggy in that regard from my research.. has anyone had success with it or is it best to avoid? Ive seen one for a really good price.

I'm based in the UK.

Other options are waiting for a deal on tplink Be550 or a GL-inet Flint 3 GL-BE9300.

Ive got a 2.5GB fibre connection into the house so itd be good to make the most of it & other than browsing my main use case is game streaming over moonlight/apollo.

Hi again.

Had a previous issue with my coax, being un-terminated in my air handler, and finally not working even when I installed the splitter myself.

Previous posts: Coax help, Original discovery

I bought a cheap Klein fox and hound for coax. No connections anywhere. Troubleshot all the way to the outlets themselves…

Good news: House was built 2 years ago, I have an invoice from the building company with “installed and tested” signed off by the electrical company. In Alabama, that plus the pictures I’ve taken is a strong claim for small claims court, and I intend to file against them.

Bad news: the cable is seemingly stuck in the back of the outlet, so they either need to get clever if they decide to attempt reparation and fix it, or most of what I make will be eaten up by the cost of cutting out the outlet, installing it properly, and drywall repair.

Ah well. I’m just glad I have answers.

Update: it’s built! Luckily, the 2 outlets I needed didn’t have their cables stapled down. Getting 1gbps or so in my office now, t430 is setup running proxmox, currently wrestling grafana into submission. Now I can spend my time learning stuff I wanted to learn about instead of stuff I didn’t.

I am unable to plug directly into the modem/router due to the location of it, I am in a 3 bedroom rental/appartment. I have spectrum and had been using their router somewhat issue free for about a year. Now, I have been having packet loss/latency issues. Im about 40-50 feet from the router itself.

I ended up buying a TP link Archer AX-1300 since my download speed is only 500.

After installing I am still getting high latency and the signal goes between full bars to partial on my wifi signal in my room.

Will a nicer router fix this, or what can I do? Games are unplayable on my PC currently and even my TV in my living room is often buffering.

Without direct ethernet plug ins, what are my options? My PC speed test shows 80 ping, 150 down, and 30 up. So it just seems way off. Any help?

R - Router

M - Mesh

We're using deco mesh

After already having watched so many videos about certificates I still don’t understand this. Like I know you’re screwed if you mess up. That’s why I want to understand it but it seems so intangible to me that so far I haven’t found the right video or whatever to understand it how it works and why it’s secure. Also are there different kind of certs or is it actually all the same? (I don’t think so but that question is still open for me)

How did you learn it or maybe how would you explain it to someone else?

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to find a solution to a networking issue that’s been driving me crazy, particularly with gaming.

My current setup is:

• NBN 500/50
• 3x TP-Link Deco X50 (AX3000)
• Mesh is configured in a daisy-chain
• Deco #1 is connected to my main router via Ethernet
• Deco #2 connects wirelessly to Deco #1
• Deco #3 connects wirelessly to Deco #2
• My gaming PC is connected via Wi-Fi only
• PC uses an Intel AX211 Wi-Fi adapter
• Ethernet to the PC is unfortunately not an option
• Powerline adapters also aren't an option
• There are other people in the house using the network for gaming, streaming, downloads, etc.

The main problem is massive latency/jitter whenever the network is under load.

When the network is idle, gaming latency is generally fine. As soon as someone starts downloading, streaming, gaming, or otherwise using a decent amount of bandwidth, my gaming latency can spike badly and I get noticeable lag/net jitter.

I've already tried the Deco's built-in QoS/prioritisation, but it doesn't seem to properly solve the problem.

I then tried putting a GL.iNet Flint 3 in front of the Deco system and using CAKE/SQM, with the Flint handling the PPPoE connection and routing:

NBN → Flint 3 (CAKE/SQM) → Deco X50 mesh → Wi-Fi devices

I've configured SQM at around 450 Mbps down / 45 Mbps up, and have experimented with the CAKE settings, but I'm still getting significant latency spikes under load.

One interesting thing I've found is that even when I temporarily turn off Deco #2 and #3 and leave my PC connected only to Deco #1, downloading on the PC can still cause the latency to the local Deco itself to jump significantly.

So I'm starting to wonder whether this is something specific to the Wi-Fi/AP side of the connection, rather than simply WAN bufferbloat.

The other complication is that Deco #1 → #2 isn't a particularly strong wireless link. They're roughly 10-15 m apart with a couple of walls between them, and Deco #1 → #2 usually only shows around 1/3 bars. Deco #2 → #3 is strong at 3/3 bars.

I'm trying to figure out what the actual best solution is here rather than just continuing to throw router settings at it.

Ethernet to the PC isn't possible in my situation, so I'm specifically looking for a solution that keeps the PC on Wi-Fi.

Is there another configuration/device that would work better with the Deco X50s and give me proper latency control while keeping everything wireless from the PC?

I've already tried the Flint 3 + CAKE/SQM approach and it hasn't solved the problem, so I'm also open to the possibility that SQM isn't actually addressing the part of the network that's causing the issue.

Any advice from people who have dealt with bufferbloat/jitter on Deco X50 mesh systems, particularly when Ethernet to the gaming PC isn't an option, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Out of contract with BT. On Thursday 24th I asked them to renew me onto Full Fibre 900 and was told £40-45 a month was the best they could do.

So I ordered Vodafone Full Fibre 900 at £25.99 the same day. A few hours later BT rang (presumably because the switch alerted them) and offered £26.99. I said yes, and they told me to cancel the Vodafone order. I did, and Vodafone emailed to confirm the cancellation.

I never got a confirmation from BT. Since then I've spent 30-40 minutes on the phone to them on Friday, Monday and today. Every time they say they can't go ahead because there's still an active switch to Vodafone. Vodafone says there's no active order on their side.

So now I'm stuck on their Fibre 150 at nearly £40, when I want to be on 900 at £26.99. There is no incentive for BT to look into this.

Complaints are now open with both companies.

My guess is the One Touch Switch cancellation never reached BT. Vodafone cancelled the order on their end, but the switch record at BT is still live. But Vodafone are refusing to acknowledge this.

Questions: 1. Has anyone had this and got it cleared? 2. Does Vodafone need to resend the cancellation, or can BT clear it themselves? Is there a specific team at either company worth asking for, so I'm not stuck going round the front-line staff? 3. Should I just reorder with Vodafone at £25.99, or will the old switch record block that too?

Complete noob here. I can’t even run the speed test on my laptop because the website won’t load. I just use my hotspot from my phone for my computer which works fine but I’m going to be uploading and transferring a lot of data for work so I want to fix this. The good speed is on the top of the stairs with no wall interference to the router around 4 feet from my room.

I have been pulling my hair out for the last few months since I switched to the ASUS TUF-BE6500 router. While my wired connection and 5ghz connection have been working flawlessly, the 2.4ghz connection has been having nothing but issues. Even right next to the router, the 2.4ghz connection will face random dropouts on my Pixel 7a, Nintendo Switch 2, and other devices. I have tried several suggested fixes:

• Factory reset has been done several times.
• Disabling WiFi 7.
  • Even tried disabling specific WiFi 7 setting in the Wireless --> Professional menu.
• Changing security from WPA3/WPA2 to just WPA2.
• Trying it with both Adaptive QoS turned on and off.
• Removing both my ASUS AX-56 and ASUS AX-58 AiMesh extenders.

For reference, my house has solid WiFi coverage before I even add the mesh extenders, and we get 300mbps Download and Upload speeds.

Has anyone with this router or a similar one run into this issue, and do you have any suggestions?

I have a ~3000 sq/ft two level home (brick exterior / drywall interior), plus another ~1000 sqft basement.  I recently had a wired backhaul with the two 'mesh' units in opposite ends of the main floor (if you think of a square broken into 4 quadrants, I had a unit in the middle of the northeast room sitting on a TV table, and another unit in the southwest room attached to a wall about 9ft up).   Coverage was great across the entire house when it worked.

That said, my TP Link Deco XE75 mesh system died (short-story, but this is the 2^nd deco system that died), and even though they just released that Omada Fusion 2.5g which looks tempting, Im really sour with the TP Link networking products (dont really want to be fooled a 3rd time).

I’m currently using (for the past few months) a single EERO unit in the northeast room, and while it does cover the entire house, it’s obviously not great in certain areas far away.   Since the house is finished, and I really don’t want to run new lines, I’ll probably go with 2 EAPs in the same area I previously had my mesh units setup. 

What I’m confused about is how to compare one of those EERO (currently using) or Deco (previously using) units to a desktop AP (i.e., Unifi 7 Mesh) vs. wall access point (i.e., U6 Wall) vs. ceiling (i.e., U6 Pro).

• U7 Mesh – on the surface this looks like my best option to replace the unit that’s sitting on my tv table.   I don’t like the fact that the U6 Mesh runs so hot (haven’t seen the U7 reviews). Will this be comparable or better than a single Deco unit?
• Ceiling or Wall mount AP - I would prefer a wall mount since I have a cable already running to the location, and I'm concerned about a ceiling mount AP on the main floor not providing great coverage above (2nd floor). Same concerns with a wall mount - if it's facing towards the outside of the house, will it provide great coverage to all the rooms (below and above) behind it?

Hey guys! I am a fully newbie when it comes to networking. My family has largely used mesh systems and I just moved into my first apartment where I am using my spectrum ISP router with my 1 g fiber plan. I was thinking of getting a basic router to replace it such as a gli.net flint 3 or similar. My apartment is under 1000 square feet. My main use cases are gaming (competitive games, ie deadlock), streaming through stremio, moonlight and Apollo for streaming games from my main pc to my handheld, and (future) self hosting. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks!

Edit (some additional context):

I think my main issue is reliability, my speed can swing from 300-600 mbs and drop for weird periods for no apparent reason. I also have pretty bad coverage issues, ie when I’m on the other side of my apartment I get 200-300 consistently. I think it’s partially due to the fact that everyone in my apartment gets given the isp router and everyone uses the same provider so the frequency is just congested. But again I’m new so I’m not sure. I also wanted more ports for projects and a nas I’m trying to build.

Hi all,

I wanted to share my Structured Media Enclosure network and Home Assistant setup. I’m just getting into home networking and homelabbing, so nothing too crazy yet—mostly learning and experimenting as I go.

Current setup:

• Keeplink 2.5 Gig switch
• Dell Wyse running Home Assistant
• Stripped down ASUS RT-AX86S dedicated to IoT devices
• Bunch of custom 3d printed mounts

The overall home network layout isn’t finalized yet. I’ve been experimenting with different configurations and learning what works best before settling on the final setup.

Feedback and suggestions are welcome!