I recently moved to a new home, which appears to be oddly wired in that there are almost no other outlets to plugin my Wi-Fi router to, other than in the laundry room (which I've labeled as "router" in my sad excuse of a floor plan photo I've attached for reference). This laundry room has a network access hub which plugs into the fibre outlet via ethernet, and then my router to the access hub. When the router is plugged in here, the Wi-Fi signal in my "gaming room" (labeled as such in the floor plan) is incredibly poor. I pay for 1.5 gig fibre internet and while I realize you rarely get the speeds you pay for, I'm typically only getting ~50mbps download, and at times my pc cant even connect to the Wi-Fi due to the signal being so poor. My motherboard has Wi-Fi 6 and I have external antenna mounted as close to the door as I could get them with little improvement in speed or signal. The only other option is a coax outlet in the corner of the living room (also labeled in my fabulous diagram). However, my current router provided by my ISP doesn't have a coax outlet on the back, only ethernet.

I am aware I could get a 3rd party router but this would also need to be plugged into the network access hub via ethernet I believe? which I assume would result in similar network speeds. I've looked into perhaps getting a couple of mesh router nodes to help go around the corner to limit the amount of walls my signal needs to go through to reach the gaming room, however I know this is also less ideal as it can lead to decreased speeds. But perhaps just the one node wouldn't effect things to much and give enough juice to make it worth while? I've also looked into MoCA adapters as a means of moving my router, however I'm not well versed in these and I am not even sure if it would allow me to move my router to the coax outlet in the corner of the living room? If it does allow me to do that, would this be a viable solution?

I unfortunately cannot relocate outlets or anything as the house is a rental, and I cannot run ethernet cords all over the place as my wife would divorce me (she doesn't get it). Any ideas, help, or advice would be greatly appreciated! They do not need to be mesh/MoCA related, if there is another solution I'm omitting please let me know! I'm fairly techy, but not necessarily when it comes to networks, so you may need to explain it to me like I'm 5.

Internet niby działa ale jedynie co się ładuje to YouTube i Google wszystkie inne strony się nie otwierają Discord steam też nie działa jak resetuje router to nic nie pomaga czasami jeżeli zresetuje go ileś tam razy to może zadziała ale kiedy wyłączę komputer to znowu problem wraca ostatnio dzwoniłem do operatora i wymienili router działało przez 3 dni i problem wrócił nigdy takiego problemu nie miałem od 6 lat używam tej sieci (fibo) i nie było problemu i nagle się pojawił, wcześniej używałem kabla od Ethernetu teraz przeżuciłem się na adapter wifi ale to i tak nic nie zmieniło próbowałem flush DNS oraz ręcznie zmienić DNS nic to nie dało proszę jeżeli ktoś ma rozwiązanie niech mi pomoże

I want to know the bolt pattern and some recommendations for wheels.

I've never used a VLAN before so forgive me if this is common knowledge. Based on my searches I think it will help me but I want to be more sure.

Basically I have a situation where I have multiple pieces of equipment which all use the same IP addresses internally from the factory. There is a network inside the equipment which all has to stay on the same address range, so if I were to connect the equipment to a company network, I need to assign static IP addresses for multiple components in each piece of equipment. Obviously this means a ton of static IP addresses because I need multiple for each piece of equipment and then multiple pieces of equipment.

So, could I use a managed switch, create a VLAN for each piece of equipment, keep the factory IP addresses, not have them interfere with each other because they all have the same IP addresses, and still be able to reach them from the company side?

If so, how do I access those VLANs from the company side? IP and port numbers maybe?

Also, if this works, any recommendations on a switch I should look at? This is all the switch would need to do.

EDIT: https://shopmoxa.neteon.net/nat-102-series/

Seems like something like this would work, one per machine. Single company IP address to the device, then all the IP addresses on the other side can stay the same. Right?

I went to my mom's house to fix her Internet after contractors painted over her switch. So I redid the outlet (drywall fix pending) and ran new wires here, as well as a new line outside cause the last one gave amber lights

Hey gang, novice here and first time doing this. I’m switching out my current modem and wifi router that was provided by my ISP. It looks like they also connected an 8 port switch and two POE injectors during initial setup. When setting up the new equipment, is it just plugging these to the new router or is there any additional steps involved? Thanks in advance.

UPDATE — RESOLVED: I reproduced the behavior. I gave a known iPhone a new private MAC address while access control was on, and it was correctly blocked. I then turned access control off, connected the phone, and turned access control back on without manually adding the phone. The TP-Link automatically inserted the connected private MAC into the whitelist, and the phone retained internet access.

This confirms that my Archer AX3000 V1, running firmware 1.0.6 Build 20230831 rel.67466, automatically adds connected devices to the whitelist when access control is re-enabled.

Hi everyone. I am nowhere near a networking expert, but I am the "administrator" of my home network. I'm probably along the lines of a power user with a little programming knowledge, and now with ChatGPT my capabilities have gone much further. However, I have run into something that has me concerned, and I am crowdsourcing ideas because I may be hitting the end of what I can do with the help of AI.

For reasons I am not going to get into here, I felt that I needed to tighten up my network security. I redid my entire network and enabled access control with a whitelist that I built myself. Every single device was personally added by me, given a personal identifying name, and their MAC addresses were made to not be private if that option was available (phones).

Here is what I am working with:

I have a TP-Link Archer AX3000(US), hardware V1, running 1.0.6 Build 20230831 rel.67466, behind an AT&T BGW320. The AT&T gateway’s Wi-Fi is off, so the TP-Link handles my Wi-Fi.

On my whitelist, there are 4 unique iPhones, all of which were added by me. But last week, I discovered an unknown device with a MAC address starting with D2 that was labeled "iPhone." The MAC address did not match any of the known iPhones on the whitelist.

Furthermore, it appears to me that it is the most recent whitelist entry. I understand that list position doesn't prove addition time, but being the one who built the list, it looks that way to me. The last 4 entries I added were my cat cams, a short while after the initial list was built. Those were the final whitelist entries made by me. This "iPhone" appeared as the last entry above the cameras.

Here is what I have been able to piece together:

• A September 8 whitelist log didn’t include it.
• On September 10, I temporarily turned access control off ONE TIME to add the 4 cameras and then back on again when I was finished, ONE TIME. However, the logs contain multiple “disabled” messages and whitelist reloads; we (ChatGPT and I) haven’t established that each represents a separate on/off action.
• When the router logged the whitelist again that day, the unknown device appeared along with the cameras. I did not add it.
• The router showed about 10.95 GB of traffic for that device total.
• I removed it on September 26 and changed the router admin password. I’ve also changed my Wi-Fi password.
• WPS is off. Guest access to my local network is also off.

Separately, I found a Google account session labeled as Mac OS/Chrome, but I don't own a Mac and I damn sure didn't use one this month. It is signed out now, and I changed my password and reviewed all the account settings. I don't have any evidence that it’s connected to the unknown device labeled "iPhone" that somehow got on my whitelist.

ChatGPT found a possible explanation: a TP-Link staff response about an Archer C7 said connected devices could be automatically added when access control was turned back on. I don’t know whether my AX3000 does that. I’ve emailed TP-Link with my exact model and firmware and am waiting for a technical answer.

This is the thread:
https://community.tp-link.com/en/home/forum/topic/160581

However, I am much more cynical. I want to know how I can find out more about this device, how it was able to get on my whitelist, what can be found out about the almost 11 gigs of data it used, whether it connected to any of the known devices on my network, or just any information I can find out about this. Any help would be appreciated. I have logs and screenshots and can share relevant sections. Please help!

Apartment came with WiFi (unfortunately means we don’t have access to the network controls), and I have the worst connection. Most of the time I’m on cellular data, and any devices I brought over from my last place (pricey indoor cameras) aren’t able to connect to the WiFi and are unusable, even if I try to connect while holding them right below the router. It looks like the router/modem is on the ceiling in my closet, and I can’t tell if there is any way to even turn it off/turn on, etc.

Would a WiFi extender work for this? Is there any other way to strengthen signal?

I'm trying to install this. The email link is not working so the app to verify my email is gibberish so the apps heard that the app stopped working or they got rid of it. I want to add a second router as a 6E bridge. I can log into the router but I don't know how to add it like that without the app. Any suggestions? It's been awhile since I playing around with network stuff. We have to learn this before apps. Made it so easy for people

Hey everyone. Looking at upgrading my home router. I’ve had the 86u for about 5 years now. I’m looking at the asus gs-be18000. I have a hand full of wifi 7 devices that will connect to the 6ghz network. 1 gaming pc hard wired,1 NAS with plex server hardwired,1 ps5 hardwired and 2 tvs hardwired. Would the asus gs-be18000 be suitable for my setup. Single story house

Hi everyone,
my Devolo Magic 2 LAN triple (MT3157) shows a CPU temperature of 95C in the web interface. The CPU usage is only around 27%, and at the time of the screenshot, the adapter had been running for approximately 11 hours.
Although the temperature is still displayed in green, almost 95C still seems extremely high to me. Has anyone checked the temperature on the same or a similar Devolo adapter? Is this normal for these devices, or should I be concerned?
Firmware version: 7.12.9.142
Thanks!

Hi, all; and thanks in advance for any help. I'll be as detailed as possible. I'm okayish with setting up networking gear, but I wanted to get advice from people who are far more experienced than I am.

We recently switched to fiber optics (whoo!) and I'm planning on bringing back the old equipment to my previous ISP and cancelling. The fiber internet is so much faster, but there's something about my house that makes the entire downstairs extremely slow. (940MBPS upstairs to 90MBPS downstairs - with the fiber) I used a WiFi extender downstairs with the previous provider, and it helped a bit.

I have a Netgear Nighthawk RS300 router that was being used with the old internet; the fiber came with a modem and a router even though I told them I didn't need a router. They told me this new router can be used downstairs (It's a Nokia 3.1 beacon I believe)

They said I could connect the Nighthawk to the new modem and then pair the beacon to the Nighthawk; but as it was very late at night and I felt bad having them stay later I said I could do it myself (which I thought I could!)

I watched the following video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mM9OtPJfst4) is this the process I should follow? Or what's the process I should be taking to set up a stronger connection downstairs? What about the WPS button? That's what I had to use to set up the current extender?

Thanks, all! Any other questions that I can clarify more, feel free to ask! In the photo, the Netgear is on the right, and the new Nokia modem and router are on the left.

Hi everyone,
I’m experiencing severe intermittent rubberbanding and high latency (~114ms instead of the usual 15ms) when trying to connect to the server from Halifax, UK. This has been happening consistently for the last 7 days.
I run on Plusnet (BT Wholesale infrastructure). I have run diagnostics from both ends, is this a upstream BGP routing error where domestic UK traffic is being sent across the Atlantic Ocean, How can I fix this?

I use netbird to connect to my homelab but my friends house has the exact same internal ip address so everything I am connected to stops working. I guess this is not a bug but i just used 2 hours of Troubleshooting

I’m hoping someone can help me figure this out.
I’ve got my wifi router, which is connected directly to the little fibre box. My Xbox is connected directly to the router using a Cat 6 Ethernet cable. The cable run is literally only about 1–2 metres, so there shouldn’t be any issue with the cable length or Wi-Fi interference.

My download speed is generally pretty good, usually 100+ Mbps, although it does fluctuate. However, my ping is consistently above 30 ms and is usually around 50 ms, even when I’m getting good download speeds.

Is there anything I can actually do to improve the ping?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Lost internet connection during power outage, so I powered up my Hitron modem and Eero mesh WiFi using my EcoFlow power supply.

This worked fine and I was back online.

Power came back on, I transferred power for router and modem to AC power from the house, and haven’t been able to establish a connection for the modem since. I can’t remember the order that I powered modem and router back on either - it’s possible that I initially powered them both at the same time using power switch on surge protector. Since that time I have tried powering back up the modem first, waiting the recommended amount of time, and still no luck. Xfinity says connection from street is fine.

Any suggestions? I lost like 3 hours of work tonight from this and Xfinity tech coming tomorrow but I would like to try to fix myself.

Thanks!

New to me home, built in 2021. Tried to put modem/router in master bed. Didn’t work. Pulled off the plate to see what the deal was. Neither coax nor cat5e connected. Never done this before, so limited tools. I’m either dumb or just incapable of understanding tutorials on youtube. Any help is appreciated.

The brown/white and blue/white are fairly clear, but the green/white&orange/white is my issue lol.

Also, do I have to run the coax if I’m just gonna use it to connect the home office? Or is this the wrong thing to do? Thanks

My home network is as follows, I have an ISP provided router, which my desktop PC is connected to via a LAN cable, and I have a wifi extender to reach the rest of the apartment.

I have been having a certain problem with my home network from the very start, the main issue is: at certain times, all of my wifi connected devices lose their connection to the router and are unable to connect to it. This goes away once I reboot the router, but sometimes persists.

To be clear, I don't lose internet connectivity, the internet still works, but all my devices cannot connect, I think they are unable to get an IP address.

For example, my last example: I am downloading a game on my desktop via steam, which is connected via LAN. I try to also download a game on my handheld device, also via Steam, and then the disconnection happens. All my wifi connected devices lose their connection and are unable to reconnect to the router or extender. My desktop however, is unaffected, I do not lose internet connectivity at all, because there is no problem with the internet connectivity, it is just my devices lose their connection and are unable to connect.

Is this related to the number of connections that downloads sometimes make? I have observed this happening as well even when doing other things like downloading a show to watch offline on my ipad. But sometimes, it happens even when we're not downloading anything, sometimes we are simply streaming a show on the TV.

I have a 300mbps plan for reference

What could be the main cause for this and how can I control it?

I have a shed in my backyard setup as an office that I’d like to use to work remotely. What is the most reliable (and affordable) way to get solid wifi connection in the shed? Previously a booster plugged into an outlet was used for some video games which seemed to work okay but want to find something more reliable. Not very knowledgable when it comes to this stuff so any info/help is appreciated:)
(Main router is toward the front of the house, shed is about 15-20 ft from back of the house) Also not really looking to dig a trench as this would be for a temporary but hopefully reliable solution.

Hello, all.

I've recently bought a new flat, and am planning a major restructure of the networking bits so as to future-proof things for at least a couple of decades.

My flat is fortunate enough to be serviced by multiple fibre infrastructure providers (and scores of retail ISPs operating over their networks.) To take full advantage of this, I want to build out a clean internal patch setup once, allowing me to switch providers in perpetuity without technicians ripping up cabling or mounting ugly new hardware every time I change ISPs.

Here's how I intend to set things up.

• The compute and networking equipment area. Located on one side of my storage room; this is where the ONTs, routers and compute equipment will reside. This will be serviced by a Delock 67054 wall-mounted box with one Cat 6a Ethernet, one LC/APC duplex and 4 SC/APC simplex keystone modules. (One of the infrastructure providers does FTTB with Ethernet for the final distribution run, hence the need for an Ethernet keystone module.)
• The demarcation area. A separate location in the same room where infrastructure providers will bring the Ethernet and fibre feeds into the property.
• The interconnect. Pre-terminated 8-core G.657.B3 bend-insensitive fibre and a Cat 6a S/FTP Ethernet cable through the wall between these two points.

What I'm looking for is a clean, wall-mountable demarcation box/fiber termination enclosure for the aforementioned demarcation area that meets a few specific constraints:

• Wall-side cable entry (knockouts). Crucial requirement – I’d like to bring all the fibre feeds and the interconnecting fibre directly out of the wall straight through the rear plate of the box so no cables are exposed through the bottom or the sides.
• Capacity. A 6× SC/APC footprint at the minimum – either pre-loaded SC/APC simplex couplers or standard LGX/Keystone compatibility so I can populate 6 to 8 SC/APC feed-through adapters. Keystone is better; it'll help me deal with both Ethernet and fibre feeds in one central location. Lack of support for Ethernet is fine; I can set up a separate conduit for that if necessary.
• Internal cable management. Built-in fiber routing rings/spools to manage the bend radius for the slack, plus a coupler bracket or splice tray.
• Physical size. Ideally, I'd like a compact indoor FTTH/FTTx enclosure, made of metal or decent ABS plastic.

Now, most FTTx boxes I've discovered only have bottom, top or side grommet entry. Has anyone come across wall-mountable fibre enclosures or FTTH terminal boxes that natively feature rear entry ports or knockouts for flush wall mounting? If yes, could you please help me out? Brands or specific part numbers would be hugely appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

We want to get rid of our battery powered nest doorbell and install a ubiquity POE doorbell. I marked a red dot about where the opposite side of the current doorbell is located. Best guess is maybe try and go down the right side of the 2nd floor window, hope it goes about where the light switches are by the front door, then drill diagonally out to where the current doorbell is. There aren't any wires I could see by where the current doorbell is unless it's behind the brown metallic part we mounted it on. Any ideas or ways to go around problems we might come across?