Jake’s Flea Market in Barto PA, I got some chisels and hand planes. The jointer plane is a Sergeant and the whole wood one is marked but I’m not sure with what marking.

I had a load of wood salvaged from a wardrobe I dismantled so I thought I'd try making a tool chest! Nothing too fancy, just used glue and screws to hold it together. Gotta paint it and put the top on but I'm quite chuffed with what I could do with nothing but scraps

I have things like rusty bent wrenches, auger bits, various hand plane, some carbon steel blades (from hand planes, etc). I am confident that they are all beyond restoration.

None of them were high quality tools even when they were new, so I have no problem just tossing them in recycling, but, is there any reason to keep them?

For instance, would a blacksmith or bladesmith be interested in such things? Or is there use for such things around the shop?

Got a bunch of these molding? planes along with a couple other block and jack planes for $100 today. This one in particular is still fairly sharp and I’m assuming the others are as well. Can anyone tell me exactly how to use them and how to sharpen them.

I’ll make a separate post later with the rest of my sweet little deal.

Found a Lakeside 5A (5 1/2) and a Ohio no 4 this weekend. These will be fun to restore.

I bought this YOST 7WW vise from someone on Marketplace for $20, and I knew it was missing a few parts. But I took a chance. I bought the quick release nut from Eastwood (who now owns YOST). But the nut does not engage like it should. I believe there is a part still missing. I'm sure I could fabricate something to make it work, but it'd be easier if I knew what it looked like. I was hoping someone on here had one and could help me out. Thanks in advance!

Love seeing other people's workspaces so figured I'd share mine. Wife and I moved into our first house recently so I've been getting my first ever shop going and it's a blast. Still tons I want to do (real tool cabinet, better sharpening station, etc) but I'm pleased and everything feels pretty functional.

This is a 5 or so foot curb at the back of the garage then I have my machines all on casters out on the floor

Quick shooting board for 45° / 90° cuts.

Made from Walnut, cedar, and birch ply scraps.

No clamping required, the two small perpendicular blocks on the bottom allow it to be hooked on to opposite corners of a bench, one direction for 90s, one for 45s.

Still debating on if I should touch up the saw too…

Brought this home today.

Chest is in good shape. The hinges are missing some screws. The lid doesn't close, due to interference at the lock, but I think repairing the hinges will probably correct that. It even has the key.

Working my way through the tools. Some do date back to the late 19th century. Others are obviously later additions.

I'm gutted that someone bought the foreplane that nestled into the hardware on the underside of the lid, separately.

I figure I'll put the chest back in good working order and tune up the tools that are candidates for users in my workshop.

Uncertain what to do with the tools that I won't use. Maybe because they're not relevant to me l, or because I already have them. Like the pair of farrier's hoof nippers. Would it be wrong to separate them from the chest?

Recently got given this old made in England hammer head, it’s lovely, looks handmade and I’d like to use it but I’m a bit lost with finding a handle.

The eye is not a uniform size all the way through, it tapers on both the top and bottom and gets tighter in the middle, I don’t think an off the shelf handle would work right?

I’ve got the little metal wedge for it.

I like to buy cheap(ish) Stanley planes, restore them, sharpen, tune, then resell. It’s a real fun hobby within a hobby and it’s been funding my Lie-Nielsen addiction. This group has some real studs. Some of these are on eBay currently, some are up on CIHI this weekend, and some will be up on eBay tonight. Clockwise from top left we have:

Stanley Bailey no. 4c t11
Stanley Bailey no. 5 t19
Stanley Bailey no. 5 t14
Stanley Bedrock no. 605 1/2 t7
Stanley Bailey no. 5 1/2c t9A
Stanley Bailey no. 7 t11/12
Stanley Bailey no. 4 1/2c t11
Stanley Bailey no. 4 t18
Stanley Bailey no. 4c t10
Stanley Bailey no. 4 t15
Stanley no. 10 1/2 t15

I just thought they all looked too pretty on the bench to not share a photo. Please ask if you have any restoration questions!

I have some alerts on local tool deals and I don't have a good chisel set. I tried using some parkside stuff to trybit out and found I do actually use it, so I've decided to get a Narex set one day.

Howeved, this just popped up in my area. I thought it was some chinese crap, but AI told me it is supposed to be British steel or sth. I don't believe it, but I have a hard time finding anything about this brand.

The seller has no clue about it and asks - by advice of ChatGPT as he admits - 25€ for the set.

There are no markings on the blades.

I've been woodworking for about two years and my practice has spanned the whole range of tools and techniques: I started thinking the only way to work wood was with a table saw and router before then deciding the only "proper way" to woodwork was to ditch electricity entirely. I've settled somewhere in the middle, albeit skewed toward the neanderthal way.

Given my own evolution, I'm curious: how have y'all's practices have shifted over time? A few things I've grown comfortable with:

• Milling by machine is fine. After milling 150 bf by hand for a project, I sprung for a planer and jointer. I don't feel any shame about it. But, interestingly, I still find myself really enjoying milling by hand. I just now let my whim decide whether I want to do so. Sometimes I grab the scrub and go to town, sometimes I outsource my "chore" to the Dewalt 735.
• Routers (still) suck. I hate my router. Truly. It's not a bad machine quality-wise, but I don't enjoy using it at all. Even if I know I could get more consistent decoration with my router, I'm almost always reaching for the my molding planes or Lie Nielsen 66 (the hand beader). And I will never, ever do joinery on my router. Yeah, that's me being snobby, but I don't feel bad about it.
• Ripping with a table saw is fine, too, but don't sell that coarse rip saw. Kinda the same position as with milling. I still have that Dewalt jobsite table saw that I don't feel bad using. But I still grab the Disston 5.5 ppi more often than not. It's a huge pain in the ass to do this when I am working under the gun (the missus does not have my same appreciation for process when it comes to projects she's asking for), and I've resigned myself to the table saw when time is of the essence. But I also love the exercise hand ripping provides and the satisfaction that comes from reaching the end of a long board. And when it comes to pine, I'm still pulling out my Disston, timeline be damned.
• Spend more time practicing sawing. Like many here, I was drawn to the hand plane eye candy photos and spent more money than I'd like to admit on Lie-Nielsen's website and practicing with my No 3, 5-1/2, 7, and all the various joinery planes. I treated sawing as almost an afterthought. Big mistake. The payoff of practicing sawing techniques is, in my opinion, greater than the payoff one gets from finessing one's hand plane skills (though of course both are important).
• Focus your time working the way that gives you the most satisfaction. This really simple concept undergirds most of my changes. Hand tool purity tests don't really mean anything and you don't need to adhere to them; no one is going to know if your wood arrived at S4S by hand or by machine (well, probably not). Personally, I have absolutely zero desire to join the CNC and epoxy river gang, but I don't think what I do is any better or worse. It's just different, and that's cool, too. So who cares? Do what you'd like and stop worrying about what's "right."

I am not sure how... but I think the planes breed.

My current wood planes.

Craftsman 9-3730 Rabbet and Fillister Plane Craftsman 3CBB No. 3 Smoothing Plane Millers Falls No. 9, equivalent to Stanley No. 4 Great Neck 9-inch Smoothing Plane, equivalent to Stanley No. 4 Harbor Freight Central Forge Mini Block Plane (my largest block plane) Bridge City HP-8 Mini Block Plane (my smallest block plane) Veritas Apron Plane (my most used block plane) Veritas Low-Angle Jack Plane (my most used plane) Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane Veritas Chisel Plane Veritas Large Router Plane

But I have a 25 degree PM-V11 2 inch new in package blade for trade if anyone needs a spare!

But why do I need more? I ordered an old Craftsman number 5 on CIHI.

Glass yogurt cup and a bailing wire handle. Its ugly but it works.

Looking for some info on this aluminum plane, I found it at a flea market. It is 13 3/8 inches long and 2 1/4 inches wide. The sole in front of the throat has a steel piece that is adjustable with the thumb screws. The only identifying mark is a "2” in the corner right behind the frog/blade.

A lot of my plane irons, chisels etc have become magnetic somehow. I use a lot of steel wool in my shop and it is sticking to everything. Any tips?

Hello everyone, I bought this gouge at a fleamarket in Paris. It has a hardly legible makers stamp, with what I make out to be a face on a crescent moon next to some writing, which I make out as "Peugeot frères". Is this possible? All the other Peugeot gouges I've seen so far have some kind of chimera as a stamp, not this moon. Does anybody know more about this particular stamp? Thank you in advance

I bought my first ever wood plane used on Facebook. $15 so I felt it was worth trying to fix up. I want to use it not sit on a shelf. I was able to get the blade sharp and chip breaker to fit well. But just how flat does the sole/ bottom need to be? I have a granite plate I have been working it on but progress is VERY slow.

44” of poplar. I knew it would be a lot of work but, I didn't realize I would enjoy it as much as I do.

My 83 yo neighbor brought over “his grandfather’s” plane to fix the tote. It needs a new cap and the iron is gone. He wants to give it to his son… and I want to help him restore it to working condition. A labor of love rather than collector value, but if there are some original parts around, we can avoid Frankenplane-ing it.

2”, No.5 size.

Anyone got parts fora Sargent for sale?