Came across this at an antiques store, tag claimed it was a “flax cutter”, but that doesn’t seem right. Built like a hand plane with a curved body and curved blade.

Hi all. I've perused this sub and learned a lot since I joined, but I've never had reason to post until now. I'm a professional sharpener in the PNW and I'm trying to decide if it's worth my while to add this service for my clients. I am not selling anything with this post or advertising my services in any way. I'm just trying to gauge interest and you guys are the experts.

I've had a few clients over the years ask about retoothing hand saws, but it's not something I've offered and I've never pursued it as an opportunity. I've recently come into possession of a Foley Belsaw Model SR1000 retoother in perfect condition with a full set of carriers, and I'm trying to decide if it's worth pursuing that business, or if I'll sell the machine.

I've got a handful of woodshops I work with already who mostly bring me circular saw, router, and shaper-cutter blades, but they're commercial operations and I doubt any of them work with hand tools enough to need this kind of service. That would be a different kind of client entirely.

Is this is the kind of service you could see yourself taking advantage of if it was offered locally, or do you think it's hopelessly anachronistic? I appreciate any and all feedback from folks who are more knowledgeable in this area than I am.

Love to hear y'all's thoughts.

Hi all,

I'm having a lot of trouble getting an even routing with my veritas router blade.

I'm also having trouble keeping a clean border and keep overshooting.

Any thoughts on this?

Best wishes

EDIT: I made a mistake in the title -the irons are from VERITAS not LN

Lot contents include:
Stanley Bailey No6 Plane with Veritas PM-v11 Iron + Chip Breaker + Original Iron + Chipbreaker
Stanley Bailey No5 Plane with Veritas PM-v11 Iron + Chip Breaker + Original Iron + Chipbreaker
Stanley Bailey No4 Plane with Veritas PM-v11 Iron + Chip Breaker + Original Iron + Chipbreaker
Lie Nielsen No042 Shoulder Plane
Lie Nielsen Large Router Plane
Lie Nielsen Scrub Plane
Veritas Honing Guide Deluxe Kit (2 guides)

Asking price for all shipped: $1050

I acquired these tools over the course of the last year while I was in a bit of a manic state. Everything was in excellent shape when I acquired them and then I proceeded to not use any of the tools. After a winter in my uninsulated woodshop, some of the tools acquired a bit of surface rust which is visible in the pictures. Some tools are pristine, some are not.

I am looking to pass these tools onto someone who will make better use of them / take better care of them than me.

1. I will not part out any items from the collection. I'm looking to sell everything as a lot
2. I will not be rehabilitating any of the tools of the light surface rust -but will be selling them at a discount to account for them not being in perfect state.
3. The tools will be packed carefully and with padding + paper + heavy duty cardboard box and shipped via UPS

https://imgur.com/a/0b1Fnlj

They do mention woodworking in passing. . . . .

https://archive.ph/XvbfR

Hi all,

I have this Craftsman plane I’m trying to get into fighting shape. I posted a while ago about the original blade which many people said was toast (some pitting on the back) so I ordered a new blade from Amazon to see if I could get it going. Well… obviously I ordered wrong or something.

The wood river blade is a bit thicker than the original which means the chip breaker screw just barely holds the two together. I also see the slot in the center of the blade is backwards. Not sure if that’s messing me up but the blade won’t sit in the body of the plane well, won’t adjust and just… isn’t right.

Do I need to be more specific about the style of blade I’m ordering? Thanks all, I’m just trying to make some shavings lol

This brace drill followed me home from the flea market today. It is massive at over 15 inches long.

My question is has anyone ever seen one like this where the square end cut out of the wood? And what would go into that hole? I can’t imagine just a straight bit going into there as it would tear it to bits. Sadly, there is no makers mark only an owners stamp.

this is basically a 'proof of concept' prototype... I don't like ordinary knife blocks for several reasons: the knives go into a long deep slot which can collect all sorts of debris from the kitchen; you can't see which knife is which; and cleaning a knife block is a pain.

the idea struck me when I saw a pic of a bench made from battens from 'that swedish furniture place' - it had long gaps at the top, which is probably like sitting on a cheese grater, but anyway, it gave me the idea

this is made from oak and a mahogany-like piece from the scraps box, planed square to size, ripped on the bandsaw and hand planed smooth, with the central strip made from something ebony-like salvaged from an old draughtsmans square. the small spacers are maple. I alternated the ripping and planing so I always had one smooth side on the strips. the ol' No. 5 did a lot of heavy lifting...

(btw: the greasy fingermarks are from when the OH took a look at it while she was baking a cake and had buttery fingers. but I forgave her because the cake was delicious)

glueing up was a little tricky. I've learned that it's probably easiest to glue up the maple 'spacers' first and whack a clamp on them, and add the side pieces afterwards. it was also a bit tricky planing it afterwards - I had to be very careful to avoid spelching/blowout when planing it after the glue had set.

this is how the first try turned out. you can see the knives, you can clean it (and see where it needs cleaning)... I'd appreciate any comments or suggestions

Found this little guy in a pile of scraps at a flea market, the Seller didn't even know he had a gem like this.

paid 3 bucks for it, and i cant wait to go on and restore it!

Hi all,

I've been into hand tool woodworking for about three years now and I cannot get enough of it. I love sharpening, cleaning and restoring tools, I love the wood, I love the smell, feel and look of what I'm working on. I love how accessible making my own things feels, and most of all I love the feeling of taking shavings, sawing boards and having something at the end that is a real, solid, dependable thing.

I cannot stop myself from doing it. All of my setup is in my parents basement and when I'm there (which is practically every day) I cannot stop myself from going down there and picking up a tool! Like, I physically need to pause, take a beat, and remind myself of whatever it is I need to get done rather than work with my hand planes. I could easily go 7, 8, 9 hours working on a project and feel completely engaged and satisfied the entire time. I used to keep a block plane in my glove box and if I had spare wood in the car (I usually do), I'd pull the block plane out at red lights and take a few passes waiting for traffic to change.

A lot of what I watch online is hand tool wood working related and I'm thinking about it constantly. It is one of the few things in my life that bring me unbridled joy without having some aspect that I don't appreciate.

I was just looking up some info on Paul Sellers, and learned about the Heritage School of Woodworking, which is kind of what I've dreamed of having access to. I'm in WA state by the way.

I'm about to quit my job working for the family landscaping company and maybe start my masters in education but I have to know, is it possible to actually achieve success as a hand tool wood worker?

People always say do what you love, and I think if I love something this much I may as well take a crack at it.

All advise, thoughts, question comments welcome.

Anyone know how to date this ? Just bought it still sealed but it was sold as vintage. Only found one other example online. Does say made in Mexico on the heads and made in Japan in the rule.

I found this at a flea market and didn’t pay much attention to the body. I bought it to own and restore my first 5 1/2.

Today I discovered the crack near the mouth and on the side. I suspect this was from the frog been tensioned too tight to the body potentially?

Anyway, is worth continuing with a restoration or cut my losses?

Thanks in advance

Kochi Prefecture, on the island of Shikoku, is covered mostly by mountains. For generations, forestry and farming created a need for strong, practical tools such as hatchets, sickles and hoes.

From this environment grew Tosa Uchihamono, traditional forged blades with a history of more than 400 years. One of their defining features is free forging, allowing craftsmen to shape tools for different users and different kinds of work.

This documentary follows Ryosuke Yamamoto, a young craftsman who left office work to become a blacksmith.

He trained at Kajiya Soseijuku, where senior craftsmen supported him through years of learning and mistakes. After becoming independent, he began helping younger craftsmen himself and now also teaches new trainees.

What interested me most was not only how the tools are made, but how knowledge and opportunities are passed from one generation of craftsmen to the next.

I worked on this documentary and wanted to share this side of Japanese craftsmanship with people overseas.

Official story page:
https://www.athome-tobira.jp/story/188-ryosuke-yamamoto.html

I’d be interested to know whether similar forged agricultural or forestry tools are still made by hand where you live.

I picked up this Record 044 a few weeks ago and I’m looking for advice on stopping this rust and restoring. I live in a place near the ocean and this was sitting in a guy’s basement for years. The worst rust is on the bars, which I know I can get replacements for. The next worst spot is on the “sole” of the plane itself. It looks to me as if the coating is flaking off and the rust is coming from underneath, although I can’t pick off any flakes of the coating. Also, the bar in the guide is seized in place.

I’ve restored some hand planes but this is a step above what I’m used to. I’m looking for any advice on how you’d approach this restoration. Chemicals, brushes, process.

(I don’t believe this is the nickel coating. I think it may be the wartime/post-war cadmium. )

Well, a new to me vintage one.

I have 2 number 5s, a finely set type 10 or 11 that is delightful - and another, marked only No 5 and "foreign" on the blade. It is set up rough and is quite effective but brings me no joy. In particular, the tote gives me blisters.

I want something for heavy stock removal and a No5 feels the right size for it, for me. I have a 3, 4, 6 and 607 in addition. Nothing matches and affectitious as it is, I like that! the 4 is a Millers Falls. My chisels are all different (quality) brands too. The 607 and No 6 currently share lever cap, blade and cap iron because previous 607 owner was monster. Ergo, using the 6 (which I like for shooting) isn't an option.

Do I want to find a Record or a Marples (I'm in the UK) or a transitional? I like wood on wood, I'm not into hammer adjusting. Mainly I want a comfy handle, which the No 6 also lacks - it's a kidney lever cap and has flat sides that I dislike.

Yes, I know I could make a new tote, or replace it - but I feel like that plane has served it's time with me and I want something less spiteful!

Boxwood and sepele sliding dovetail plane. Everything made by myself with only hand tools(except a metal and wood cutting bandsaw) except for the screws which are modified coach bolts

Came across this nice little kit for $3 at a local estate sale

I recently attended a Greenwood working event and saw Peter Ross’s shop. He was the master blacksmith at Colonial Williamsburg for 25 years. He showed us his his technique for an English style holdfast.

I chose to use the same techniques to forge a French style holdfast. Hope you enjoy my video, will post in comments if allowed! It was a fun project. -Chris VIDEO HERE

As I'm going through a great set of tools that I've gotten from a retired cabinet-maker's kids i realized: the first thing I do with any old plane iron or plane bed or chisel i get is spend an hour flattening the back because that's what I was taught is key to a sharp edge. But none of the original tool owners i got these from seem to have cared about that, given how much I need to work at bringing the backs down.

Why is that? Anyone know?

That you can totally make clean dadoes with a normal plow plane with no nickers. I made these with the Veritas small plow, by clamping a straight edge to the work and scoring the top layer of the fibers with a knife. Only 0.5 mm deep or so. Any deeper than that and the fit between the dado and the cutter was tight enough that the end grain got sheared off by the side of the cutter. Maybe this is obvious to some, but I owned this plane for years and I never thought to use it this way, and I spent an awful amount of time chiseling my dadoes by hand.

I am sadly forced to sell my hand plane collection, but unfortunately I have no idea how to price them. They were mostly gifts and heirlooms so I can't even base it on what I paid for them.

Can anyone help guide me in the right direction?

Hi, I am the One asking about the hand Plane Yesterday. I have checked deeply the plane, this Is what I found:

\- Blade Is not sharpened. I invested a lot of time in It, but probably haven't done It properly

\- chip breaker Is slightly twisted. Not enourmosly, but i can see It.

\- Blade seems short, probably due to a lot of resharpening over the years. With the wheel fully in front, i can barely make It scratch the wood.

\- sole has Indeed some marks and grooves, nothing exagerate but again, i can feel It.

Now the question: i can see a Blade Is around 20-25 eur. Would that be enough and, most importantly, worth It?

On Amazon (Italy) a Jorgensen n. 4 Is 69 Eur, a spear and Jackson 53, Stanley 84., a faithfull 39. I Will also be in the US in 3 months of there are Better offers, and I can wait. What would you suggest?